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Apache RTR/FI

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  • Guys, I am not sure if someone has already posted this info here but I found this while browsing through ********.. thought it might be useful to people facing problems with the RTR FI


    sudheer May 5th, 2009 at 11:24 am
    i have shown it to tvs service center hyderabad
    he replaced the injector
    he said company is changing the fuel injector cause there was a glitch in the previous one
    after the change of filter too my bike has no pickup in 1 2 gears
    i am not able to even drag race a ****ing pulsar



    source: Update: TVS Apache RTR FI | Vicky blog | Indian Automobile blog

    Comment


    • Originally posted by HydBiker View Post
      Guys, I am not sure if someone has already posted this info here but I found this while browsing through ********.. thought it might be useful to people facing problems with the RTR FI











      source: Update: TVS Apache RTR FI | Vicky blog | Indian Automobile blog
      sai ace has also forwarded these issues to the TVS official and we're waitin for him to post the updates on it......
      The Magician"

      Comment


      • @KP and Renny: That issue is true and was present in the first batch of RTR's. It has been eliminated in the subsequent batches and all ASC's were instructed to replace the faulty O-ring. In fact even my bike is free of these issues(touch-wood). Sai's bike though has these issues even though it has the proper O-ring. Lets see what is the response Sai gets.

        The issue I have is only with the switch-off that keeps happening when the bike is cold. Once it warms up, no issue. The lag from 2.5K - 3.5K occurs under very hot and dry conditions like a 40+degrees afternoon ride at hi-speeds(which I once did), but I have never faced this issue any other time. I tried to repeat it another day but could not. A change in the AFR I think shud suffice my bike. Lets c.....

        BTW am planning to sprocket my bike by this weekend. The size of the sprocket, original bike is a suspense. I will try it and let u guys know.
        Democracy is when 2 wolves and a sheep meet to decide who is for dinner. Liberty is when the sheep has a gun.

        Comment


        • gear shifter play adjustment..

          thr's almost about one inch of play in my gear shifter lever...
          and i tried every trick in the book to adjust tht but still it's thr...

          any method to reduce tht guys...
          The Magician"

          Comment


          • run in..

            Hello people,am from chennai i have purchased a matte grey rtr refresh on APR 20th.Except for some sudden bursts in RPM to 6-7k,i haven rippe it much till the first service,which was done at 720kms.Yesterday,a trip on the ECR tempted me to test ma babe s speed and whoa i got 120 on the speedo,Crouching.The odo shows ~800kms now.does riding at 6-9k rpm before 100kms affect my bike s performance in the long run??

            And theres a squeaking sound in the rear brake drum when am braking,it hasn been rectified though i have informed them.gear shifting is really bad in the 1-2-3 range,too many false neutrals and incorrect shifts.

            And one more peculiar problem i have faced is that when am brakin hard like from 50-0,probabaly neara speedbreaker or something,am not able to downshift at all until i move forward a bit in the higher gear giving more throttle its very irritating and this has also not been solved during the first service.

            I loved the bike s performance in the mid range RPM, though the vibrations are a bit hard to manage.For ma bike they kick in precisely at a speed of 63 kmph and till 75 i guess.lower rpm s pick up ia bit low compared to FZ or pulsar or thats wat i felt.

            and can the chennai guys suggest some quality svc,s with experienced mechs?
            ...sUdHiR

            Comment


            • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
              thr's almost about one inch of play in my gear shifter lever...
              and i tried every trick in the book to adjust tht but still it's thr...

              any method to reduce tht guys...
              holy crap, that's a lot of play. maybe thats why false neutrals ?

              ok, the tie-rod is cross-threaded. meaning if you tighten one end it will loosen the other and vice-versa. you will need to first remove the 'boss' from the gear shaft. then adjust the threading. first loosen the lock nuts. then i think you need to lengthen the tie-rod section. so screw it out of the boss end and the lever end i think. not sure. just take it off the shaft first and you will figure out which way to turn.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                holy crap, that's a lot of play. maybe thats why false neutrals ?

                ok, the tie-rod is cross-threaded. meaning if you tighten one end it will loosen the other and vice-versa. you will need to first remove the 'boss' from the gear shaft. then adjust the threading. first loosen the lock nuts. then i think you need to lengthen the tie-rod section. so screw it out of the boss end and the lever end i think. not sure. just take it off the shaft first and you will figure out which way to turn.
                god!!!!!!!!!! tht was confusing...
                will do it for sure....ASAP...

                one inch of play is way too much...
                The Magician"

                Comment


                • Originally posted by skyblues075 View Post
                  Hello people,am from chennai i have purchased a matte grey rtr refresh on APR 20th.Except for some sudden bursts in RPM to 6-7k,i haven rippe it much till the first service,which was done at 720kms.Yesterday,a trip on the ECR tempted me to test ma babe s speed and whoa i got 120 on the speedo,Crouching.The odo shows ~800kms now.does riding at 6-9k rpm before 100kms affect my bike s performance in the long run??

                  And theres a squeaking sound in the rear brake drum when am braking,it hasn been rectified though i have informed them.gear shifting is really bad in the 1-2-3 range,too many false neutrals and incorrect shifts.

                  And one more peculiar problem i have faced is that when am brakin hard like from 50-0,probabaly neara speedbreaker or something,am not able to downshift at all until i move forward a bit in the higher gear giving more throttle its very irritating and this has also not been solved during the first service.

                  I loved the bike s performance in the mid range RPM, though the vibrations are a bit hard to manage.For ma bike they kick in precisely at a speed of 63 kmph and till 75 i guess.lower rpm s pick up ia bit low compared to FZ or pulsar or thats wat i felt.

                  and can the chennai guys suggest some quality svc,s with experienced mechs?

                  your clutchplates seems to be sticky. i also faced same problem in begining. check if clutch setting is correct. if it is correct, try the following as i did:
                  1. start the engine
                  2. engage 1st gear
                  3. apply both brakes hard
                  4. go on releasing the clutch slowly (do not release completely)
                  5. let th clutchplates rub hard at high rpms and half clutch for a minute
                  6. shut off the engine
                  7. remove oil dip stick
                  8. let the burnt smoke come out completely
                  9. let the engine and plate cool for an hour or two
                  10. u r done. take the test ride.

                  I did the same and saved time of cleaing the clutch plates.
                  There's lot to it other than saddle....


                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
                    your clutchplates seems to be sticky. i also faced same problem in begining. check if clutch setting is correct. if it is correct, try the following as i did:
                    1. start the engine
                    2. engage 1st gear
                    3. apply both brakes hard
                    4. go on releasing the clutch slowly (do not release completely)
                    5. let th clutchplates rub hard at high rpms and half clutch for a minute
                    6. shut off the engine
                    7. remove oil dip stick
                    8. let the burnt smoke come out completely
                    9. let the engine and plate cool for an hour or two
                    10. u r done. take the test ride.

                    I did the same and saved time of cleaing the clutch plates.
                    IMO this ll do more harm than good to the clutch plates
                    When everything comes ur way, u r in the wrong way ;)

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by insanebiker View Post
                      IMO this ll do more harm than good to the clutch plates
                      +1 to that

                      but then go ahead and try it....clutch is tht weak to give way so easily....if at all anything happens.....warrenty hai na
                      07 HH Zma
                      11 Honda Aviator DLX
                      14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
                      16 Scooty Zest
                      11 CBR 250R

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                        god!!!!!!!!!! tht was confusing...
                        ok here's the simple way. first remove the boss from the gear shaft. then adjust by trial and error. ho jayega.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
                          your clutchplates seems to be sticky. i also faced same problem in begining. check if clutch setting is correct. if it is correct, try the following as i did:
                          1. start the engine
                          2. engage 1st gear
                          3. apply both brakes hard
                          4. go on releasing the clutch slowly (do not release completely)
                          5. let th clutchplates rub hard at high rpms and half clutch for a minute
                          6. shut off the engine
                          7. remove oil dip stick
                          8. let the burnt smoke come out completely
                          9. let the engine and plate cool for an hour or two
                          10. u r done. take the test ride.

                          I did the same and saved time of cleaing the clutch plates.
                          @nox : Cleaning clutch plates by above method? I feel this is strange, you are making the plates wear by force, that too one minute means about 5000 cycles of 'rubbing n wearing'... When you did this and what was the outcome, are the 'cleaned' plates still being used ?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by insanebiker View Post
                            IMO this ll do more harm than good to the clutch plates
                            + + + 1 to that from me...........

                            Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post

                            warrenty hai na
                            ...............

                            Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                            ok here's the simple way. first remove the boss from the gear shaft. then adjust by trial and error. ho jayega.
                            ha ab it sounds more good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
                            ye try karta hu.........
                            The Magician"

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by vipin_s View Post
                              @nox : Cleaning clutch plates by above method? I feel this is strange, you are making the plates wear by force, that too one minute means about 5000 cycles of 'rubbing n wearing'... When you did this and what was the outcome, are the 'cleaned' plates still being used ?
                              Its working excellent buddy. i wanted the clutchplates to wear only. i did it 400 kms before current reading and since then, its damn smooth shifting with no false neutrals and sticky gears. and no drop in pick-up too. i got 0-60 in 4.2 sec after that.
                              And yes, i was ready to replace them if i would have blown them. But it did the trick very well. If it is harmfull, then what about harm to clutchplates by burnout? Ever removed the dip stick after burnout? check the amount of smoke which comes out after burnout.
                              And as onlinesatish said, WARRENTY HAI NA.
                              Last edited by nox2505; 05-14-2009, 10:05 AM.
                              There's lot to it other than saddle....


                              sigpic

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
                                Its working excellent buddy. i wanted the clutchplates to wear only. i did it 400 kms before current reading and since then, its damn smooth shifting with no false neutrals and sticky gears. and no drop in pick-up too. i got 0-60 in 4.2 sec after that.
                                And yes, i was ready to replace them if i would have blown them. But it did the trick very well. If it is harmfull, then what about harm to clutchplates by burnout? Ever removed the dip stick after burnout? check the amount of smoke which comes out after burnout.
                                And as onlinesatish said, WARRENTY HAI NA.
                                hmm well i'll try this then ...still speculative about the consequences of stressing out the plates.
                                ...sUdHiR

                                Comment

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