Now this should not happen with the oil drain bolt....
who'll take the whole engine to the lathe guy then!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey guys, I've been following this forum for quite sometime and it's great to see bike enthusiasts and very knowledgeable. It's been slightly more than a month and done with my first service at 504kms.

During my first service, I had mentioned to the mechanic that the front suspension creates sounds when I go over humps/pits at slightly high speeds. He tightened the nut, but it was still there. I go back there after couple of days and he further tightened it. He again did an overall check of the bike and checked for the chain slackness. He tightened it slightly. Now, sometimes I hear a strange "tak, tak, tak, tak...." sound when I slow down my vehicle and spin the rear wheel with my hand. The sound is from the front sprocket and not the rear. My friend tells me not to worry and I am kind of apprehensive taking it back to the service center as he might end up opening the front part of the bike to investigate. One thing to note here is, the sound doesn't come all the time and when I'm above 10-15km/hr. The sound is pronounced only while slowing down.

Please help me in this.

Welcome to the thread.

The steering noice sound is the cone set noice, get it checked.
and the kat kat noice is the chain noice, it's normal.
The noice is less pronounced when the chain is properly lubricated.

I have no idea, but my mech confirmed they'll do it if they don't have the tools.

You haven't used the cbz/zma ones then. I wasn't kidding when i said they're like the CBR's. Pulsar is crap. Bajaj had a nice high-density foam one on my boxer, but it becomes hard and slippery too after 2-3 years. A replacement is 75 bucks! So the cbz one won at 23 Who'd think HH is cheaper than all the rest! Try it once, you wont ever think of any other.

I will only take credit for explaining, very insistently , exactly how i wanted the seat to look. Rest is all the seat guy.

Yeah, you'd expect tvs to do a split but then i see that yamaha too hasn't done so and not even the FZ which would really benefit.

Didn't nox's oil drain bolt thread strip?
And does anyone else have any idea about the oil sump filter cleaning? These guys all insist it doesn't get dirty and need cleaning, draining is enough.

Bad news
There was a major electric supply problem in kharghar on sat and a little on sun, my PC reset a few times and the HDD is dead. I've lost a lot of stuff. So i may not be online much for a while now. Just a heads up in case anyone addresses me directly.

No. My oil drain bolts are intact and in perfect condition. Only oil filter(rightside wala) bolts have gone kaput.

That opening the whole shock thing is lengthy, after that it's pretty much easy job.



Will try the Zma's then....

Thanks for the quick reply renny How do I convince the mechanics that it is indeed the cone set that need to be properly adjusted? Any pic where the adjustment needs to be made would be helpful

Yup oil filter cover screw gets screwed with regular wear and tear... the draink bolt also looses its thread.

PS: A source in TVS says that they have taken corrective measures for the same. The newer spares will come with a new "triangle" which will hold the drain nut better. No updates about the oil filter area though.

I guess for you guys still to come:
- One way clutch going awry and slowly grinding the left hand side crank assy
Solution: Go to the svc there is a small metallic film kind of a thing (3rs) that can be used and lasts for decent while creating tension
Solution2: Let it eat the assy, and then a bill of some 3k for the assy and incase you are lucky, damage to crank and what not.

PS: Variyan TVS sucks, they saw the issue and didnt report it... I got a new stator plate assy and oneway clutch and gear fixed due to another issue, and the bastards fixed it too hard... killing everything inside! (all the issues mentioned above)

The only good thing is that:
1) I get some excercise kick starting the bike,
2) The bike is a few grams lighter!

(Damn I am talking like one of those RE guys)

Edit: I meant foam padding on the grip... helps dampen shocks!

What my mechbuddy told me was the fitting of the seal itself, if you don't have the right tools, they have to tap/hammer it in. This can cause damage. So the lathe guys do it better. I dunno how exactly. I've seen the same mech do it by hand and never noticed any violent behaviour!

Please do, i'm confident you will thank me !

I think the issue is with the mechs going rambo with their pneumatic drivers and using too much torque to tighten the bolts. I had mentioned earlier about always using a softer material to scrape another material. Same applies with steel screws/bolts in aluminium. The steel is much harder and will chew through the alum if too much torque is applied.
This triangle thing you mentioned is the cover for the oil sump filter (mechasses call it the drain-bolt filter). They said that the three small bolts holding this triangle in place strips the thread too. So you can either strip the drain bolt thread or the threads holding the stripped drain bolt thread triangle in place! your choice
And the corrective measure will nicely come when all our bikes are out of warranty so we pay out of our pockets for faulty parts. Recall much TVS?

Are you talking about a loctite like adhesive which is used to lock bolt threads in place, by any chance?

I got that, it was just a coincidence that i mentioned the seat foam right at your quote!

Whats wrong with the quality department of TVS.
Heck my 8 years old FIERO screws were almost as new till the day i sold it.


By how much grams this all lightned your pocket???

I'am just too scared giving my bike to the dickheads mechs of the SC, cuz if anything goes wrong with the FI, i have to give it to the sc.


Yes, after they put in the seal they hammer it to the place using a big RING like metal thing, but my mech do it in the "right" way( compared to the SC) , he used the same method on my KB and FIERO



I'am goin to the HH showroom tomorrow.
One more thing i wanted to ask, will it be a direct fit, like can i do it in home???
i just have to unscrew the bar ends and slide it out na???

you said it bro.

Hey, talking about fiero screws there's one part i could never get in 8-10 years! The big screws which hold the clutch and brake levers on to their respective yokes. We had to use small bolts in the big holes which looked very ugly. TVS and their parts availability!

Ok, it's not difficult or anything, but there are a few things to do.

1. If you don't know how to remove the bar-ends you might find it frustrating. The right way is to hold the weight and unscrew the long bolt, but not completely. If the nut on the end inside comes off, you will have to fish out the rubber with a thin hooked rod, like a cycle spoke. If you loosen it enough, without completely removing it from the nut, you need to then pull with the strength of 3 elephants and you will get the whole assembly out. The way it works is when you fit it back, you first slide the entire assembly into the handle. Note, never use oil, it lubricates permanently, use liquid soap, when it dries it locks. Then, holding the weight, you tighten the long screw. what this does is squash the small rubber making it expand outwards and locking it in place inside the handle.

2. The left side switch and mirror will have to be moved inwards to accommodate the longer grip rubber. The right one somehow fits perfectly. More on that later. Again, if you don't know how to relocate stock switches you might get pissed, theres a little tab on the switch which goes into a hole on the handle. You can either drill a new hole on the handle or trim the tab down. Don't remove it completely, leave some so there's friction with the handle so the switch doesn't rotate when you press the horn!

3. The right one, i already said requires too many mods for the cbz throttle grip plastic to work perfectly in the RTR throttle housing. So we remove the RTR grip rubber by gently cutting it off the plastic and the mount the cbz one on the rtr plastic. You will have to destory the cbz plastic to get the rubber off, otherwise it won't come off. You can work a pair of cutters between the rubber and the plastic and cut the plastic to pieces or you can hammer the plastic through the rubber, but this might damage the rubber which is very soft. On the inner end of the rubber, where it meets the switch remove a ring of rubber around the hole, thereby making the hole bigger, maybe 2-3mm. Fit the groove of the rubber over the protruding lip of the RTR plastic. The outer end where the grip meets the bar-end, it will get stuck on the bar-end giving you a poor man's cruise control! To avoid this, theres a better way than trimming that bit off, you tuck the rubber OVER the throttle plastic. Graphical description below.

This is how it will be without tucking it over:

-------|........... Rubber
------|...|--\
---------|....|... Bar end
------|_.|--/
-------| \
..............\
.............Throttle plastic


This is how it will be when you tuck it over:

------/............. Rubber
------|...|--\
---------|....|... Bar end
------|...|--/
------\ \
............\
.............Throttle plastic

LOL, if i had a camera i could have just taken a pic. But the pictorial should be enough.

This whole thing seems a lot complicated because I've spelled out every little detail, atleast i hope i did, but it's pretty straightforward. Once you know how you can do it eyes closed. Almost every friend of mine runs cbz grips (yes i'm that OCD), my RD, boxer, friend's p180, uncle's RX (actually that now runs unicorn grips which dont have the hole for bar-ends) and friend's discover.

My clutch lever screw slipped in my Fiero, and i used a home thread to fix it cuz the original was never available!!!!!

But there's one prob, i've opened the right bar end but the left one is bolted with the strength of HERCULES, (i've tried little hammering on the driver too but no, it didn't worked) will have to go to the SC to get it unscrewed by their "Air" tools.

The Accelerator rubber is somewhat "wearing" the plastic assembly, can i use the end of "spoon" to take it out??

Will it damage the inner plastic??

Bolds are really helpful.

Will file the tab a little then.
luckily i know the installing process of the switches cuz i changed them myself in my FIERO twice...
And have you noticed that the mirrors of the RTR are not in a straight line....

Got it.
This seems little time consuming, and breaking the plastic will be an issue without damaging the rubber.
Will cover the rubber with a thick cloth and then will hammer the thing down.
How about filing the inner plastic of RTR a bit and then pushing the CBZ/ZMA rubber in, while applying little bit of fevi quick to it??

I just love this "pictorial" thing of yours...
it's just too informative....
thanks a ton.

TVS can add this stuff to their service manual of RTR, as it was fully detailed and superb.
Cheers...

PS:

It has started raining in INDORE and my chain is turning orange, and that 100ml can of TRU SPRAY is still not available....
Will apply coconut oil to the chain using cotton, it'll attract no sludge(compared to the thick normal oils) and will save the chain from turning orange too....

You seem to only unlucky suffering this. BTW, how much you have clocked.??

You mean to say, i should get that metallic film inserted right now?

Wazzup guys!

My bike has completed 50k kms with a ride to Araku (approx 800kms from here). i was supposed to join for the trip but could'nt since i to leave for my native place in TN urgently. So my friends ad to take my bike without me as they were short of bikes (friend is Arun, SVC supervisor). Seems bike had given them a bit of trouble while returnining, Silencer bolts came off, 3rd gears is not disenganging. so its 3-4-5 gear all the time, if he's lucky then 1-2 gears. They just returned an hour back. Am yet to see the bike. Hope it does'nt burn a hole in my pocket!


Too mny posts here to browse my ride for the past 10days was a tvs xl super...loved it!

^^^^^

You seemed to be busy in ZMA ha!!!!!!

I loved the TVS XL's power delievery between 20-40kmph.....
it's peppy no doubt!!!!

BTW nothing compares to the pocket rocket nature of the HERO PUCH.......