Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions


Bit late, but I have recently bought P150 Classic (with round headlamp & kick start ) I am facing Carb issue, so was going by this thread and was trying to find some clue. The Issue, which I am facing is unstable idle. I have shown to couple of local mechanics, but they are just saying me that Card has failed. Now I am wondering that, how a Carb can fail

Re: Leakage....

IMO the mechanic has messed up your bike....tick-tick sound should have been sorted by merely adjusting the tappets....Changing tappet cover improperly has caused oil leakage problem....The mech. is surely taking you for a ride...bad bore-piston will allow oil to enter combustion chamber which leads to white smoke from exhaust.....engine oil is also used to cool the valves and AFAIK oil is also circulated in the upper part of head cover to lube cam....just tell the mechanic to adjust the tappets properly using filler gauge and use the old tappet covers....you better change the O ring of the tappet covers and head cylinder gaskets (if oil leaking from head-cylinder joint though it appears to be leaking through exhaust tappet cap from the above pic)...

Leakage....

Hey guys,
Hmmm,I own a pulsar 150ug4.5 model,currently running km28000+ which give me around 45to50kmperliter my driving style mostly aggressive but safe...wat happened was I started hearing tappet sounds like tic tic tic near bore,so I gave the bike to the venkatachalam motors service centre were I bought it.they changed many things like clutch assembly,timing chain,rear sprocket assembly,disk pads,tappet covers,rear break pads and other minor things like oil change etc...after one week the same sound started again and oil leakage near to one of the tappet covers.....so I contacted the mechanic again and he said that the engine bore is letting the oil through it to the top,so that I have replace my bore soon,but he stopped the oil leakage by adding some kinda glue in the tappet cover....my question is should I really change the bore like he said....

Stator plate heating

Recently the charging section of the regulator of my pulsar 150 UG3 got bad. The lighting section worked perfectly. Bought a new RR and installed it. The battery started to get charged, but the stator plate is heating. Earlier also when I connected the faulty RR, the stator plate got overheated. When the bad RR checked using DMM, shows AC Input (for charging-bl/w-bl/w) terminals short. The default RR is green colored and has 6 pins. I checked the lighting and charging voltage without RR, which turned out to be perfect and varying as per RPM. So what could be the problem? Short circuit? How to track it? As of now the current RR is unplugged to prevent it from getting short...kindly shower your ideas...

Re: Pulser 150 ug3 headlight not turning off,cant selfstart,and idling issues

Is it possible to fit platina/ ct 100 shockers in the pulsar 150?