Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Judging by the symptoms, I would say it would be safe to assume that either you're running incredulously lean or you have an air leak. That would explain the overheating which in turn causes the TIK TIK sound from the exhaust.

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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

my 2cents
-check wheels for free rotation
-check the drive chain for over tightening
-check plug colour for lean or rich fuel mixture
-get the tappets set
-get the valves checked
is your bike burning oil or misfiring?
bad rings and improper seated valves can cause oil burning....

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Start with the basics and easiest ones.. Check tappets and tune afr properly. Check spark plug colour to determine the afr. If possible, post pics of it. How much kms has the engine oil run? Check tyre pressure also. If kicker feels free, check compression.
Senior members can answer better though.. Tagging some members[MENTION=37035]ashwinprakas[/MENTION]

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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

The oil grade is good AFAIK. Its semi synthetic 15W40 now I'm using. Shell AX7 is good i believe. I was using AX5 before which was 20W50. The problem still existed. The engine heats up too soon. Does every pulsar gets so hot quickly? And as the temperature increases the the tic tic is more like rapid kad kad kad. I don't know if its tappets. Could tappets cause overheating? And the kicker too sorts of stucks in between if i kick it 4-5 times (engine switch is off). I mean in between.. if i kick 4-5 times, the 5th time it would sort of get stucks and then it goes down and when released and kicked its normal and repeats again after few kicks. Its sort if easy to kick too. Is the piston ring gone? Or maybe bore piston damage? But it seems very unlikely at 26k..!

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Hey bro, from what I could guess, the bike's running lean or the engine oil grade is not correct. Could you describe the tic tic noise? Mostly tappets produce sounds when engine is warmed up. If it's too noisy, ask the mechanic or asc to tighten the tappets. Make sure the engine oil is xW50 grade. Shell ax5 and ax7 are xw40 AFAIK. Use w50 engine oils. Use bike engine oil only. Also, adjust the afr using a good mechanic.

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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

No experts here who could provide me a help here....!?

Pulsar 150 UG3 Overheating and feels harsh!

Hi. I own a P150 UG3 2008 Model which has run only 26k on the odo. I bought it few months back from a person my uncle knew as the bike was rarely used. It had ran only 23k on the odo then. First few days the bike seemed alright and it ran like butter when completely cool but once the engine starts heating up there's this harsh tic-tic sound and the bike starts to become very harsh with reduced throttle response and pulling power and it heats up real quick. Its difficult to touch the engine (not the head. the lower part having clutch n all) as little as after running 8-10km at normal RPMs like 3-4k on the average. The Engine oil levels are above minimum. I have tried Shell AX5 and AX7 SS engine oils and changed em 2-3 times already. So i found that the oil was not the problem. I checked the AFR and adjusted it many times in clockwise and anticlockwise from the position it was on. Still it overheated.

The longest distance i covered without break is 20km!!! And the engine was very harsh so i had to stop. I knew it was straining. The bike returns 47kmpl currently. The bike is rather smooth on rainy days. The gear becomes hard when it heats up and becomes harsh. (The sound of the engine and the feel is harsh).

Bike had no modifications. No engine guard is installed. Spark plugs are not faulty.

I don't know the service history of bike. I replaced the clutch plates as specified in the manual as it is 26k on odo. Still after a lil run of 3-4km the bike seemed to be heated. I don't know if they already took it for a test ride.

So, my question is.. Does the new clutch plates heats quickly till they set? Or is it something else thats wrong with the Engine that's causing overheating? The brakes and all are fine. I checked everything else.
Please help me..
Thank You

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

K thanks will ask for carb replacement

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

dont know whether floats are available or not but ASC can arrange it....hey is your bike in warranty period? ask them for carb. replacement

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yeah...tyres can be upgraded to the mentioned specifications....But the Rear tyre will touch the chain guard..so you will have to sacrifice the chain guard (not recomended) or even you may need to change the swingarm with that of 180 or 220....fuel economy will decrease by 5-7 kmpl and slight drag in the engine...handling will be better....for handle bars you better ask the ASC

Simple mods for pulsar 150

I want to make my front tyre 90/90 and Bach 110/80 .....is it possible and if yes will it have any of the bikes factor affected such as performance,handling,etc at the same time can I change the handle bars to p180 and if yes does it affect handling of my bike...plz help xbhpians
Owner of a p150 ug4.5 ebony black dressed to thrill version which has clocked 9000kms till now and has clocked a top speed of 116kmph alongside using bajaj dtsi oil

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

.

I gave my p150 to asc but even after that it leaks whenever I off my bike whether it on main stand or side stand or when waiting in traffic it starts leaking drop by drop after a minute and keeps on increasing the rate of leaking from drain pipe until I turn the fuel to off position. When I again took it to asc they told its petrol problem which has rusted the float needle. I wonder so the quality of float made by Bajaj is so worse that it rusts in just six months. He had cleaned the carb when I gave him first time the problem started. Again same problem. Help me xbhp xperts to keep my darling in good health. I love her a lot.......(Bajaj pulsar 150 ug 4.5 dressed to thrill version ebony black clocked 9000 kms since 6 months)...plz help

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

Thank you guys for valuable responses.
I will take my bike to service center this Monday, and provide update.
Thanks!!

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 150 All Versions

[QUOTE=Srinivas sr143sr;1157302]Hi Art,

not to oppose you.. But Pulsar stator coil is generally a good winded one.. But ont know whether its winded by hand or by machine... My 10 yrs old Pulsar UG2 is an example of it..

may be your one has a problem i think...

For your knowledge and long long discussions that has went on "Make bike full DC" thread... maximum ac voltage reported in many bikes rewonded stators (Uni. apache etc) was in and around 70-80 volts max ac from all the poles rewinded...

Some even said that pulsar magnet is weak and unicorn magnet is strong and so on.. i donot say pulsar is great or waste... let me give you readings...

Just plonk in AVY180 original stator and just check the 3 charging poles.. u will get 75+ volts max ac... No kidding here... That means just 3 poles voltage is exceeding the above bikes total rewounded stators.....

then what will be the total 7 poles ac voltage of normal avy stator ...?????

i have rewounded the avy180 stator and the voltage crossed a whooping 120-130 volts ac and i have never heard of such huge voltage atleast in this forum.. i have checked with two Dmms... Its a fact..!!!!

so dont underestimate your Pulsar...!!!!

"my pulsar always had starting problem using kick lever even i had to press self longer to start it"

no Honda can start with a single kick... but Pulsar will start in a single kick.. Please inquire it anywhere...

The longer time for the bike to start during self operation for bikes upto UG3 is due to: when you press self the magnet should rotate enough around yellow(ign) coil to produce high voltage then transfer it to CDI.. there multiply the voltage and then the spark will be produced... UUUfffffffff... but the kick will be strong enough to produce that effect....

From UG4... just press the self the current goes from battery to cdi.. then bang...!!!! this is what makes the self of UG4s a feather..!!

Theres no way to make the bikes upto UG3 self smoother.. only way is to make DC ignition and its not a hard job....

Adv of UG3 over UG4: If your yellow coil and pickup coil is good.. nothing is needed in your bike to make your bike move..!!! but UG4 the battery should be good and AFAIK the RR should also be good for a bike to start...!!! The DC cdi of pulsar AFAIK doesnt contain any ac to dc conversion mechanism..!!!

As for your inquiry:

I have checked voltage of lighting going max to 13.2-13.3-13.5 v volts max (from RR).. and if we throttle more the voltage reduces and voltage will not be constant and fluctuates like crazy.. may be shunting effect i guess..

For charging the voltage for UG2 UG3 (both are same) never crosses 13.5-13.8v DC voltage(from RR)... But using a AVY stator and AVY RR the voltage goes upto 15.2v(from AVY RR). As i stated above the ac voltage from AVY stator crosses 75v+ ac from charging poles and for the lighting its the same 13.5-13.4volts fluctuating ac..!!!

The ignition coil as i said in previous post surpasses whooping 200+ volts ac.. but i didnt checked at a particular RPM...

The controlled voltages from RR i stated above is max.. it will not go beyond it...

But as for ac is concerned i max rev the bike around 7-8 RPM and i never throttled to the top.. you know the reason... houses and families in and around and also not good for electricals while bike is not moving...!!! If i had revved to the top may be results will be more than i stated above..!!

befor finalising on your ignition coil.. Please check for CDI, Black coil(pickup coil in stator) (should produce around 2 to 3 to 4 volts ac may be 3-4 is max) and finally High tension coils (which gives current for your sparkplugs) black/white coloured.

CDI check is must..!!! it is mostly culprit...!!!

cheers,

Did i made bore..??? haha...

Thanks for the informative post....
Actually I am talking of Ignition coil only....I have mentioned my bike's problem in earlier posts...the bike is running on the same coil....its heating and the ignition coil is showing low resistance indicating its shortening and heating....the lighting and charging coil has ideal resistance.....the bike is having starting problem....I had to loose the left starting plug to loose some compression as the weak spark is not firing the engine under full compression...During starting only it misfires , after idling it runs smooth ....will though check the suggested component soon....
coil rewinding was in my plan...don't you think that too much voltage output(more turns) from the charging or lighting coil will heat the RR Unit more due to shunting....Instead more current using thick wires (less turns) will be ideal...correct me if wrong....using 7 poles with thick wire will compensate number of turns....as voltage is dependent on number of turns and current to the cross-section area or the thickness... rewinding all the 7 poles has confused me...BTW I am planning to use 55/65watt halogen bulb and Ape RR.....
kindly throw some light on dc ignition conversion in ug3
you didn't bored me instead forced me to think deeply...thanks

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dear
did they asked to change "cylinder head" or block-piston....BTW block piston change with 25k on odo is too early....your pulsar is burning oil, check for white smoke from exhaust on revving high....
first you better check for any oil leakage. Apart from busted rings and block-piston leaky valves can also cause oil consumption.
IMO at 25k your bike might have leaky valves....get it checked properly
FYI block-piston kit cost-Rs.1700, valves-Rs.400 + misc.+labor charges

Re: Pulser 150 (2012 model) Engine vibration and low oil problem

they are charging more the cost must be around 4k

Pulser 150 (2012 model) Engine vibration and low oil problem

Hello Friends,

I am using my pulsar 150 sins last 3 years without any problem.
it has ran 25000km now.

Recently my bike stop during run, when i went to nearby mechanic for quick repair.
he said that there is low pressure in engine, and he did some twik and bike started.

later i wend to service center for checkup , and mechanic said that there is only 300ml oil in the bike.
however bike ran just 1000km after the last oil top up.

so finaly they told me that cylinder head of engine will be changes and total cost will be 8k

gyus i need your help in this situation, are the simturns are valid to change cylender hjear o there is some other problem.

Please reply.

Thanks