Wow man! Amazing! Next time try to get more pics with aiplanes.

BTW did you do any more rides? Any new video fodder?

Superb man..! Where is his harley pic.?

Carlitos: Can't believe you decided to just park up in front of someone's house with a highly visible motorcycle, and start taking photos! That too in the US, one of the most paranoid countries!

Jokes apart, she's looking hotter than ever man.

PS: Did you dyno the engine for a custom map?

Fabulous Pics...

@ Carlitos : She looks Damn HOT... n C u t e
I feel jealous of you for getting that opportunity to see that private airport and those planes.
Hope you get to enjoy high speed run soon

Just to correct you on a couple of things:

1) If you cut the cat out, you don't have to connect an additional pipe to connect the cans to the header pipes. The cat con is inside the mid-pipe, and once you cut the mid-pipes and remove the cat, all you have to do is bend the same mid-pipe back into the original shape and TIG-weld it to seal the cut.

Here are some pics from my R1 cat con removal:



This is the cheapest method to get rid of the cat. What Akra sells is the mid-pipe without the cat con, so it's a simple replacement over the stock mid-pipe. Costs about $150 last time I checked.

2) Post cat con effects: Most bikes with an o2 sensor will be able to adjust to the change in flow of gases through the exhaust. They'll be able to send a signal back to the ECU which can adjust A/F to a certain extent.

It's always safer putting in a fuel management system like the PC3, but I think it's unnecessary. My R1 has been running without the cat con for over a year without a PC3, and the air fuel mixture is just on the leaner side, but that's alright.

3) Sound control: There are heavy baffles present in the end-can which controls the sound emissions. (This is what has added to a lot of weight on the 2009/2010 R1, with the noise emission norms a lot more stringent in recent times). The sole purpose of the cat-con is to conform to the exhaust gas emissions norms, and nothing else.

Hope this clarifies things

@Carlitos: Lovely modifications done to an already beautiful machine. And those photographs are lovely too.

@Rossiter: Thanks for that crystal clear explanation about removal of the cat-con. However, I have a simple query. What if I don't want to remove the cat-con off the exhaust of the R1, and still want a little more grunty exhaust note? Will fitting an end can (a slip-on, basically) like the Akra, etc. do my job?

Actually, as far as I am concerned, I am really not a person who would like to tamper with something like the cat-con. Hence, I ask.

P.S: I am talking as if I already own an R1! Actually, am just curious, and who better to ask this (about the exhaust note, et al) than you!?

Haha.. curiosity is a lovely thing. I wish I had more of it

The easiest way, and therefore most expensive to get a grunty note is to bolt a slip on exhaust on. Slip on exhausts are also devoid of the heavy and nasty baffles that regulate the noise, so you go from the silent whisper of the stock exhaust to a classy rumble of say a Two-Bros slip on, in less than 30 minutes. Will set you back by around 20k though.

For the cost-conscious chap who wants the same effect of a slip-on, I would recommend another DIY job, which is to install A&R race baffles in the stock exhaust.

Taking things a step ahead, if you remove the cat, and install the race baffles, you have a full exhaust system for about Rs. 9000, whereas a full exhaust system for the R1 will set you back by around 75k-1L

So the choice is clear, whether to DIY for the required effect, or to shell out the moolah for the sound and performance bump.

@Rossi: True words, those. Spending 20k odd for a set of two-brothers exhaust slip-on seems to be the "sweet spot" for me! Although expensive, but this remains the simplest way to change the exhaust note.

Thanks for all the explanation. I really appreciate it all, Rossi.

@Rossiter

Well, Americans are paranoid, but its a bit over rated. I was actually standing in front of the entrance to the airport bunkers. Kind of a back door. But the guys house was right next to it. And he dint own the airport. I think it was part of the housing community. Most of the house were by the runway.

Also, thanks for all the clarifications on the catcon.
Nope i did not get a custom map. I would need a PC3 for that. I guess it makes more sense to get a custom map once you do a full exhaust mod.

@Aryan.......thanks man.......watch this space there are a few more mods coming up soon.

@rachit......I was in awe when he let me in, dint occur to me to take a picture of him on his harley.

@svjhonda..... Thanks. Will be going out on a ride soon. Will post up some stuff.

Thanks for the comments everyone. watch this space. you are all in for a treat in the coming few weeks.

You mean to say you still don't have a PC3? Your engine must be running lean. The air filter and the slip on will definitely ensure that.

Actually, if you're not going to track the R6, and if you plan on buying a fuel management system, I suggest you get this instead of a PC3:

EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection Controllers - ATVs, UTVs, Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Scooters, Sport Bikes, Watercraft

It's a lot more practical and cheaper than the PC3. I wish I'd got this one instead of a PC3

Carlitos,

Dude those shots you captured there are simply fab! I love the look of the bike...looks SCORCHIN . Good on the dude who let you shoot the pics. They're pretty upfront guys aint it?

@busalover Thanks a lot man. Yup these folks are pretty upfront.

@rossiter I have seen those fuel controllers before. 2 brothers makes one called the Juice Box. But its quite an investment. And most people i speak to on forums says its not worth buying one of those if you dont have a full exhaust. Although the Juice Box is on my Mods to do spreadsheet .
Have some more mods coming up before that

sounds good bro. loved the rumble of the exhaust at idle and wow... what a screamer she is.

Loved the color combi too. have fun ridin and ride safe.

@rossitter: Why is your Bike running lean after cat con removal? You mentioned elsewhere that ECU readjusts itself.

New Mods

(I wrote this a couple of months ago, but never got around to take pictures and post up)

Hey guys….

It has been a while since I updated my thread. So here goes.
Here is a list of the latest mods on my R6.

1. 520 Chain and Sprocket Kit. Chain is a EK MVXZ Gold chain and the Sprocket kit is by Driven Systems.

2. SpeedoDRD

3. Power Commander V



520 Kit Review

The stock gearing on the R6 is

Front Sprocket 16 teeth
Rear Sprocket 45 teeth

I went with the -1 +2 configurations. This is the most common config for an R6. Gives it more grunt in the lower rpms.
So now my configuration is

Front 15 teeth
Rear 47 Teeth

The front sprocket is made of Steel, where as the rear is double hard anodized Aluminum. Once you do any changes to the tooth count of your sprockets, you end up messing with the speedo and odo sensor. The speedo will show more speed than u actually are doing and the odo will rack up more miles than you actually clocked. So I also installed a speedo correction device. These devices are connected between your speed sensor and your bikes display. Until a few months ago, there were few alternatives. The SpeedoHealer was the most common device and sold for about a 100$. And calibrating it wasn’t an easy task. A company called 120clocklabs then came up with this device called SpeedoDRD. It’s the size of half a Wrigley’s chewing gum strip. Super easy to calibrate and costs about 60 to 70 $.
Anyway the set up took about an hour for the chain and sprocket kit, while the speedoDRD took about 25 mins. The speedoDRD goes under the tank on an R6. I had the local Yamaha dealership install it for me.

The results are phenomenal. Bottom end is so much better and responsive. It feels strong down in the lower rpms. The trade off in going -1 +2 is that you lose a bit of top end speed, about 5 to 10 mph. But who reaches those speeds every day. It’s a one off event. I personally have gone 150 mph max. I think the R6 can touch about 175 mph. Anyway, the trade off is in the max top speed and not the monstrous top end hit the R6 is known for. The 520 kit is supposedly a must mod for the R6 and the R1, I don’t know why I waited so long. But it’s never too late I guess.
As one magazine puts it….”the sprocket and chain kit mod on a Yamaha R1/R6 is a must for more ballzier bottom end.



Power Commander V Review

After much contemplation I finally got one of these gizmos. Never wanted to get one as there are mixed feelings about getting a PCV with a slip on set up. Even the dealership told me it’s not necessary. Anyway KenCool “the wise one” recommended it too and I did a lot of research over it. I decided against it initially. But then one fine day I decided to go full exhaust next year. So I thought I might as well get a PCV now and get a full exhaust next year (maybe the cost of the full exhaust and a PCV would be too much to digest together ). So anyway, I got one for 270$ from motomummy.com. Got it hooked up along with my 12000 mile service at the dealership this weekend. Before I go on, I’d like to share with you all, what a brilliant piece of software this device comes with. It’s just so fascinating how much one can tune a bike with one of these hooked up. The device comes with lots of maps for various set ups. The maps I refer to are fuel maps tuned by dynojet themselves for various combinations of exhausts and air filters on different year bikes. A fuel map is based on a fuel table which looks like a spreadsheet. See image.



The value in the cells for a particular rpm and % throttle is the % of fuel added over what the stock fuel map tells the ECU to add.
Maps vary with the model year of the bike(provided the manufacturer has changed the engine or retuned the ECU). Although the PCV is sold and advertised for 2009 and higher model year bikes, it can be used for earlier bikes too. Apparently dynojet does not want to lower the value of the remaining PCIIIs on the market. Anyway, I have 2008 R6 and the PCV works perfect on it. The difference between the PCIII and PCV maps is the 15% throttle column. PCV maps have a 15% throttle column while the PCIII does not. So if you want to run a map that was set up on a PCIII, you simply copy the cells onto the PCV map table and fill in the 15% throttle with the average of the 10 and 20% throttle values. (dynojet representative recommended)
Anyway, dynojet did not have a map for my setup…Akrapovic slip on and BMC air filter, so their representative recommended using any other slip on map available. The dynojet database had one for a Graves slip on and one for a 2 brothers slip on. When you choose a map different from your setup, you should be looking at the following parameters :

Length of muffler
Diameter of muffler

The 2 brothers slip on pipe was the closest to my akrapovic pipe dimensions. So I went with the 2 brothers map. Another feature the PCV has is that it can store 2 maps which can be switched on the fly. You need to hook up a switch to the PCV output ports. I hooked up a toggle switch with the help of a friend and loaded 2 maps. Initially I ran the bike with the 2009 R6 stock muffler and stock air filter map (not stock map that the bike comes with, dynojet retunes the stock bike and provides a map). The bike power delivery was super smooth all though it felt a bit under powered and less perky. Sometimes the bike wouldn’t start up in one try. Then I tried the 2 brothers map and it worked like a charm. Super smooth power delivery and throttle response was spot on. The bike dint feel under powered or sluggish any more. I basically took the 2 brothers slip on map for the 08 bike made for the PCIII and did the copying cells and averaging for 15% throttle process and saved it, then sent it to the PCV via USB. I am totally loving it and am thankful to “the wise one” for sparking the debate in my mind. I might try a different map sometime to see how it feels. But for now this map works great.



Enjoy the pictures.













This is where she sleeps during nightfall

Love her