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RX rebuild Using 3 Yamaha Variants

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  • dpak89
    replied
    Originally posted by aargee View Post
    ^^^ Lol!!! Very true; most of them get educated for free on our motorcycles Take it to Y.A.S.S this time & I'm sure your issue will be fixed.
    errr!! bro i am giving my bike for service in YASS only since i came to CBE!! and the place i am giving is considered as the best YASS by rx guys here!! still they dont work upto their expectations!!so i am searching for a someone else!!

    Leave a comment:


  • SriramEfunds
    replied
    Originally posted by dpak89 View Post
    ok!! will do that ASAP!! but from YSS mechs to roadside mechs > they all make me go crazy with their idiotic after-effects on my bike!! one new problem arises every time i give for service!! this time carb ....before this CDI...before that fork,tank scratches etc...the list is going on and on!!
    This reminds me of 2009 with my RX. Same blood !

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  • aargee
    replied
    ^^^ Lol!!! Very true; most of them get educated for free on our motorcycles Take it to Y.A.S.S this time & I'm sure your issue will be fixed.

    Leave a comment:


  • dpak89
    replied
    Originally posted by aargee View Post
    I assume the bold means "engine shuts down". Then I'd suggest taking it to a mechanic to get it fixed rather than experimenting now because, at this point something might work, but when it comes to riding on the D day, not sure what could go wrong. Besides, there might not be sufficient time to do R&D at this point.

    Anyway, during idle, check if your engine stops when you pull the choke. Also triple check if the jets have been tightened sufficient & there're no air leaks from the rubbers & the clamps have been tightened adequate & the oil flow tube has been inserted correctly.
    ok!! will do that ASAP!! but from YSS mechs to roadside mechs > they all make me go crazy with their idiotic after-effects on my bike!! one new problem arises every time i give for service!! this time carb ....before this CDI...before that fork,tank scratches etc...the list is going on and on!!

    Leave a comment:


  • aargee
    replied
    Originally posted by dpak89 View Post
    so i fixed a new one!! now it is starting but still when i engage clutch or when i release the throttle it goes off!! but in neutral its fine, idling is good!! is this coz of jets setting??
    I assume the bold means "engine shuts down". Then I'd suggest taking it to a mechanic to get it fixed rather than experimenting now because, at this point something might work, but when it comes to riding on the D day, not sure what could go wrong. Besides, there might not be sufficient time to do R&D at this point.

    Anyway, during idle, check if your engine stops when you pull the choke. Also triple check if the jets have been tightened sufficient & there're no air leaks from the rubbers & the clamps have been tightened adequate & the oil flow tube has been inserted correctly.

    Leave a comment:


  • dpak89
    replied
    guys!! Help me!! i am having a prob in Carb(i think )....i just nw changed CDI unit and silencer core(in YSS)...and then i cleaned carb myself!!yesterday my bike suddenly stopped when it was running!! i then tried everything like cleaning plug and fixing it again!!etc...only after removing carb and reinstalling the jets it started again!!P.S:it took 3 hours to start it again!! then i found that the spark plug was not working ...so i fixed a new one!! now it is starting but still when i engage clutch or when i release the throttle it goes off!! but in neutral its fine, idling is good!! is this coz of jets setting?? only 3 days for ISG2G !! pls help !!

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  • james_rx
    replied
    Originally posted by psr View Post
    Rebuilding may not be worth it..Here is the stock RX CDI circuit..you can build it if you want and keep it as spare...will cost you less than 300/-
    Where can i get the cdi unit of DT125 ? im ready to buy

    Leave a comment:


  • dpak89
    replied
    Originally posted by psr View Post
    Rebuilding may not be worth it..Here is the stock RX CDI circuit..you can build it if you want and keep it as spare...will cost you less than 300/-
    wow!! thank you sir!! will try to build it !!!

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by dpak89 View Post
    well my bike was running in that blown cdi for past week !! around 300km !! the problem it gave was misfiring !!! so only i thought there may be a chance of repairing it !! anyway thanks for clearing my doubt bro!!
    Rebuilding may not be worth it..Here is the stock RX CDI circuit..you can build it if you want and keep it as spare...will cost you less than 300/-

    Leave a comment:


  • aargee
    replied
    @Dpak - I'd agree to Sriram that even I haven't heard someone fixing the CDI. May be PSR ji could give a try, but how do you break open an epoxy sealed unit ?

    Leave a comment:


  • dpak89
    replied
    Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
    Not sure or heard anyone fixing a damaged/broken/blown CDI unit. Let's keep that mellow as it is uncommon to have CDI blown often.
    well my bike was running in that blown cdi for past week !! around 300km !! the problem it gave was misfiring !!! so only i thought there may be a chance of repairing it !! anyway thanks for clearing my doubt bro!!

    Leave a comment:


  • SriramEfunds
    replied
    Originally posted by dpak89 View Post
    grrrr!!!!! my stock cdi unit has blown off!! that's why i got a stuttering problem!! i thought it was due to carb!! :X now a new OEM cdi costs 750rs...can we repair the old cdi unit?? (though i have fixed a new one) jus due to curiosity??
    Not sure or heard anyone fixing a damaged/broken/blown CDI unit. Let's keep that mellow as it is uncommon to have CDI blown often.

    Leave a comment:


  • dpak89
    replied
    Originally posted by aargee View Post
    So I plonk the stock CDI & kick start & God!!! Rx roars back to life. Its clearly evident, I BLEW THE DIGITAL CDI How many times can I curse myself for that stupid horn!!!

    I hope to order a digital CDI soon, or rather when I get hold of some money.
    grrrr!!!!! my stock cdi unit has blown off!! that's why i got a stuttering problem!! i thought it was due to carb!! :X now a new OEM cdi costs 750rs...can we repair the old cdi unit?? (though i have fixed a new one) jus due to curiosity??

    Leave a comment:


  • psr
    replied
    Originally posted by aargee View Post
    ^^^ Nice questions Sri, I'd like to get clarified too. I initially thought, 100 ml or 200 ml once the vehicle hits reserve. But its better to get it clarified from PSR ji rather than assuming something incorrect
    First you must have the measured amount of petrol in the testing canister(bottle). Now close the petrol tap,and pull out the petrol tube from the tap. ....run the bike till it stops.... note down the Odo reading...now connect the test canister, and run the bike ..either like the testing guys do..steady at 40 to 50 Kmph on a plain road,without much traffic and gradients....run the bike till it stops and note the Odo reading...you have the FE of your bike, at the conditions you had tested.Alternately you can drive your own usual way and get the readings to know what your kind of driving is...Fuel efficient or not,and change the way you drive for optimizing the FE.
    When we try to test the FE reserve to reserve, the following variables will affect our reading:
    1. The filing station has to be the same Always.
    2. The quantity of petrol dispensed is different for different temperature.ie., cooler climate=dense petrol, more FE...hotter climate = less petrol filled ,...less mileage.
    3. Possibility of air also being in the filler tube,reducing the quantum of petrol filled.We have no means on knowing if 1 liter filled at the pump is 1 liter or 900ml....further....next point..
    4. Debris which comes along with petrol from the filling station sometimes blocks free flow of petrol through the filter in the tap and may give false reserve...moreover if the bike had been standing on the side stand some amount of petrol from the right half of the tank can flow into the left side to give an enhanced FE.
    5. Our driving for shorter distances is more likely to be consistent than the long drives ...hence a more consistent result is possible for evaluating FE with short distance drive...however for knowing FE under ALL conditions a canister with 1000ml(1 Lit) will give a more realistic FE result.
    Last edited by psr; 03-03-2011, 12:33 PM.

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  • aargee
    replied
    ^^^ Nice questions Sri, I'd like to get clarified too. I initially thought, 100 ml or 200 ml once the vehicle hits reserve. But its better to get it clarified from PSR ji rather than assuming something incorrect

    Leave a comment:

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