Bike O-Ring Chain - Cleaning & Lubrication

[shrinathrao]

Just wanted to clear my doubt, what happens if i use the bikes used engine oil to lubricate the chain, as i have seen many mechanics drain the engine oils from splendor, passion and other bikes and use the oil to lubricate chains of RTR, karizma, pulsar 150, 180 and 220 and i see those chain dont need lubrication for atleast 500 kms.

Has anyone tried this for R15 or pulsar or karizma and did they found an difference?

[Old Fox]

There are lots of oiling systems available in the developed markets. The Loobman, Hawkeoiler, Cameleon etc etc. Check out the Iron Butt forum and you'll find people swearing by them. And the Scottoiler is apparently a favorite. These are the people who participate in the bi-annual Iron Butt Rally which is about doing about 11000 miles in 10 days. Thats 11 Saddlesore rides back to back.

The use of oiling systems with dirt bikes is not that common but as Ganeshan points out, if you increase the oil flow rate and deliberately over-lubricate the chain, it'll not allow all that amount of dust to settle on it. Also, a lube wet chain will not allow dust to get in-between the link plates that easily. So the oiling system helps there too. The point is to use the oiling system intelligently.

Interestingly, the first generation machinery, including motorcycles, had manual oiling systems even for the engine camshafts. The 'oilier' for steam locomotives would move on the cat-walk girdling the engine topping up the wick-type oilers for the exposed moving parts.

In a nutshell, a constantly lubricated chain anyways makes a lot more sense than one cleaned and lubed at pre-decided intervals.

PS: Chain covers do help increase chain-sprocket life by restricting exposure to dust etc but the dangers of the chain breaking and fouling inside the cover with its resultant wheel lock is a rather steep price for good chain life.

[Ganeshan]

thats a really nice way to keep the chain lubricated.. although
theres is something called overlubrication.. ??
i am saying this because..
1. we have seen that once if u lubricate the chain.. u dnt see its going off very easily even after the 500k.. yes except when you are going for longer rides your proposed system is very useful. you only lubricate it because it has gone dirty. so fresh treat for her.
2. once you are in terrains where there is lot of dirt.. lets say it has gone dirty. but since our system continously pumps oil to chain.. its mixing oil with dirt. how about this.. how will u sort out above..
anyways.. i really liked the idea behind it construction.
but how about it being done in india (i believe you are in lithusiana )..
although.. if it serves your purpose.. well nothing better than that..

A well-adjusted system lubricates the chain just the right amount. I did "over-lubricate" my chain a few times in the past with this system, usually after swapping the system from one bike to the other, or if it was last set up during the rainy season (high flow) and I happen to use it again in summer. But all this is just a matter of adjustment, and it couldn't be simpler - the reservoir cap rotates to regulate the oil flow. When the chain is over-lubricated oil ends up on the wheel rim, spokes, and, if way too much, on the tyre wall. Easy to see and if this is the case, you just reduce the flow and that's it. The idea is to have it set up correctly, go for a few rides and look at the chain, so that just the right amount of oil lubricates it. And, personally, I would rather err on the slightly over-lubricated side.

I also fitted this system on my enduro bike (actually the pictures I posted were taken from a couple of them), and I can guarantee you it sees a fair amount of dirt. I did this because off-road bikes eat chains and sprockets frighteningly fast. It has made a big difference, and from what I can make out, mixing oil with dirt isn't a problem. Among the local off-road riders I'm the only one to have done this so far, and whenever we go and stop somewhere after a ride people often say "wow your chain still looks clean!". After crossing a few muddy fields and rivers, a chain without this system looks like it seriously needs lubrication, however well it was lubricated before the ride. In an off-road environment I go through a full reservoir of oil everyday (about 160 km). There I like the chain to be over-lubricated, a bit of oil on my wheel or knobbly tyres isn't a concern.

Since the chain wears out every time the bike is moving, it seems logical to have it lubricated all the time, whether the ride is short or long.

As you said the idea behind its construction is simply brilliant. I bought mine online and had it shipped to Portugal where I live (Lusitania BTW is the name given to Portugal by the Romans, about 2000 years ago!). The kit came complete with clear instructions and all sorts of brackets and supports to help installation.

[ashishkesari]

i cleaned my chain with kerosene oil and then applied TVS chain lube on my p220....i guess its ok to use kerosene for cleaning????

[beastlover]

I don't know if this has been covered already - I couldn't find any reference to it anywhere on the forum.

I have been using a Scottoiler system to clean and lubricate my chains for the past 15 years (the system can easily be swapped from bike to bike), and it's still going strong!! I wouldn't have anything else.

The system uses engine vacuum to control the flow of oil (about 1 to 2 drops per minute) onto the drive chain. Basically the system includes a small metering reservoir and two piece of tube, one routed to a vacuum point and the other along the frame/swingarm to somewhere near the rear sprocket.

Because lubrication takes place whenever the engine is on, chain wear decreases dramatically, and thus the chain lasts much longer (Scottoiler claim up to 7 times longer). It keeps the rubber o-rings moist so they don't harden and crack that quickly. I find that it keeps the chain very clean as the oil isn't very thick and tends to wash out dirt that gets onto the chain.

Once installed, and adjusted, all that is needed is to fill in the reservoir every 500 to 800 miles (more oil flow needed in dusty or wet environments). The system has really no parts that can wear, so no maintenance.

It is one of the best kit I have had for my bikes. It has paid itself off many times over and has simplified a lot of things, like I no longer need to clean or lubricate my chain with canisters etc.. And as the chain wears considerably less (and so do the sprockets), it doesn't need to be adjusted as often. Overall an excellent and trouble-free system which has a low running cost too (I have used non-scottoiler oils quite successfully).

Here are a few pictures. On this bike the reservoir is behind the radiator, but it can be positioned elsewhere. There's often a vacuum point on the carburettor (used to balance carbs together).

thats a really nice way to keep the chain lubricated.. although
theres is something called overlubrication.. ??
i am saying this because..
1. we have seen that once if u lubricate the chain.. u dnt see its going off very easily even after the 500k.. yes except when you are going for longer rides your proposed system is very useful. you only lubricate it because it has gone dirty. so fresh treat for her.
2. once you are in terrains where there is lot of dirt.. lets say it has gone dirty. but since our system continously pumps oil to chain.. its mixing oil with dirt. how about this.. how will u sort out above..
anyways.. i really liked the idea behind it construction.
but how about it being done in india (i believe you are in lithusiana )..
although.. if it serves your purpose.. well nothing better than that..

[Ganeshan]

I don't know if this has been covered already - I couldn't find any reference to it anywhere on the forum.

I have been using a Scottoiler system to clean and lubricate my chains for the past 15 years (the system can easily be swapped from bike to bike), and it's still going strong!! I wouldn't have anything else.

The system uses engine vacuum to control the flow of oil (about 1 to 2 drops per minute) onto the drive chain. Basically the system includes a small metering reservoir and two piece of tube, one routed to a vacuum point and the other along the frame/swingarm to somewhere near the rear sprocket.

Because lubrication takes place whenever the engine is on, chain wear decreases dramatically, and thus the chain lasts much longer (Scottoiler claim up to 7 times longer). It keeps the rubber o-rings moist so they don't harden and crack that quickly. I find that it keeps the chain very clean as the oil isn't very thick and tends to wash out dirt that gets onto the chain.

Once installed, and adjusted, all that is needed is to fill in the reservoir every 500 to 800 miles (more oil flow needed in dusty or wet environments). The system has really no parts that can wear, so no maintenance.

It is one of the best kit I have had for my bikes. It has paid itself off many times over and has simplified a lot of things, like I no longer need to clean or lubricate my chain with canisters etc.. And as the chain wears considerably less (and so do the sprockets), it doesn't need to be adjusted as often. Overall an excellent and trouble-free system which has a low running cost too (I have used non-scottoiler oils quite successfully).

Here are a few pictures. On this bike the reservoir is behind the radiator, but it can be positioned elsewhere. There's often a vacuum point on the carburettor (used to balance carbs together).

[Omega Man]

i didnt know.. that you are counting the steps when comparing the procedure..?? nevermind.. i liked your sense of humour..
i jst shortened the long note which you wrote.. so that at least somebody will find it not frieghtening even before reading .. although we both meant the same thing.. with the same moto of better houskeeping of chain..??

+1 to that beastlover

[beastlover]

what if i wrote all in one sentence..???

Thank You

Steps 1-12 are for really dirty chains the first time round only.
Consecutively and for the rest, steps 9-12 are simple, fast, non-messy and cost effective too.
So that makes it 4 steps, less 1 step than your simple procedure.

i didnt know.. that you are counting the steps when comparing the procedure..?? nevermind.. i liked your sense of humour..
i jst shortened the long note which you wrote.. so that at least somebody will find it not frieghtening even before reading .. although we both meant the same thing.. with the same moto of better houskeeping of chain..??

[Omega Man]

Does the Diesel and gear oil routine work on the O ring chains as well?

Yes pavanchirmade,

Diesel is any day preferrable over Kerosene. Like Old Fox says, do not overuse any cleaning agent and it will still be safe on the O-rings.

[Omega Man]

A word of caution: cleaning O-ring chains with WD 40 is a controversial subject. As I explained in another related post, many people claim (rightly IMO) that WD40 penetrates past the o-rings and dissolves the grease that is sealed behind, drying them from the inside out (washing out the lube that is sealed inside).

Hi Ganeshan

I have already addressed this point of contention adequately in my post. Copy/Pasting them again to make my point, amply clear.

* Using WD-40 when the chain is cool prevents it from penetrating the O-Rings.
* WD-40 is used as cleaner and not as lubricant; when the chain is cool, to prevent penetration inside the O-Rings.
* For really dirty chains and those who have used chain sprays and grease, use steps 1-12 just the first time.
* Thereafter, use steps 9-12 at regular odometer intervals. (Which does not involve spraying WD-40 directly on the chain).
* For new bikes and clean chains, follow steps 9-12 only at regular odometer intervals. (Which again does not involve excessive use of WD-40 directly on the chain).
You don't need to use WD-40, just be certain that whatever you choose to use is an "O-Ring safe" cleaner.

Though I don't have modern day's motorcycle that requires special lubricants to clean up chain, I've a question though on them.
Why is a WD40 being suggested to clean up the chain? Why not something like a chain cleaner from Motul or Wurth? Is there any specific reason with WD40?

Hi Aargee

WD-40 is available in almost all hardware stores, is cheap, available in itsy bitsy cans too.

BTW...
You don't need to use WD-40, just be certain that whatever you choose to use is an "O-Ring safe" cleaner.

The concerns voiced about excessive use of de-greasers/moisture sealants like WD40 are quite relevant. Though there's no conclusive evidence that the WD 40 carries away most of the lubricating grease packed inside an O-ring chain, this sure could be one negative effect after repeated and long term use as such. It is assumed that WD 40 contains a certain fraction of mineral oil as part of its ingredients and that could be the saving grace with it.

Chain-cleaning solvents, as suggested by aargee could also cause the same problem as usually all aerosol sprays need some volatile solvent dissolved in the primary chemical to keep the mixture spray-able over long periods and across a wide range of ambient temperatures. And these solvents usually have a de-greasing effect allied to them.

Ideally a mix of 1 part engine oil (say SAE 40) and 3 parts kerosene would make for a good chain cleaning agent. But the idea of cleaning is actually to clean the chain externals and get that micro-dust out from between the link plates. So overuse of any solvent or too enthusiastic an effort to clean the chain is not really needed. And being regular with cleaning will preclude the need for going overboard with cleaning solvents anyway.

+1 & Thank You I couldnt have explained it better.

[Omega Man]

good informative article describing each step nicely...
although i blv.. i v use.. oil (normal gear oil) it do attract the dust a lot hence make the chain filthy very early???
even i was putting oil in my chain .. but recently changed over to motul chain lube.. which give the same reslt as gear oil without making it dirty looking..? but yes it quite costly in market.. hence couldnt b a option to many.. but yes quality comes with price..!!
i follow simple procdre..
1. clean the chain.. with anti rust/anti durt spray.
2. if required use a cloth to wipe the dirt off
3. let it get dry in shade
4. put the chain lube and the result chain is ready to roll..
5. go for a shorty.. and ur done..
but yes i do go for delinking of chain every 2.5k kilomtrs, washin it thoroughly in diesel/kerosene and then putting the chain lube.

Thank You

Steps 1-12 are for really dirty chains the first time round only.
Consecutively and for the rest, steps 9-12 are simple, fast, non-messy and cost effective too.
So that makes it 4 steps, less 1 step than your simple procedure.

[pavanchirmade]

Does the Diesel and gear oil routine work on the O ring chains as well?

[Omega Man]

DIY topic approved

Omega Man: Useful info there. Thanks. In case this and the diagrams above come from another website, a link to that would not only give the originator due credit but will also help members here get some additional info that might be available there.

Dear Old Fox,

Thank you indeed for your prompt approval.

The above article is entirely my own work and I did not copy nor read any of the instructions mentioned above from any website.

Like my signature goes: "Think, think, think out of the box".

As for the pictures, I wanted to show some graphic images for a better understanding of the chain components, so I searched for "o-ring chain" on Google Images, and found some low resolution pictures, and uploaded them.

Thanks again for your complements and approval.

[Puneet1]

here is a interesting link i had bookmarked on O rings and wd 40 use on them PART II WD-40 O-ring exposure effect results - ADVrider

[Old Fox]

A word of caution: cleaning O-ring chains with WD 40 is a controversial subject. As I explained in another related post, many people claim (rightly IMO) that WD40 penetrates past the o-rings and dissolves the grease that is sealed behind, drying them from the inside out (washing out the lube that is sealed inside).

Though I don't have modern day's motorcycle that requires special lubricants to clean up chain, I've a question though on them.

Why is a WD40 being suggested to clean up the chain? Why not something like a chain cleaner from Motul or Wurth? Is there any specific reason with WD40?

The concerns voiced about excessive use of de-greasers/moisture sealants like WD40 are quite relevant. Though there's no conclusive evidence that the WD 40 carries away most of the lubricating grease packed inside an O-ring chain, this sure could be one negative effect after repeated and long term use as such. It is assumed that WD 40 contains a certain fraction of mineral oil as part of its ingredients and that could be the saving grace with it.

Chain-cleaning solvents, as suggested by aargee could also cause the same problem as usually all aerosol sprays need some volatile solvent dissolved in the primary chemical to keep the mixture spray-able over long periods and across a wide range of ambient temperatures. And these solvents usually have a de-greasing effect allied to them.

Ideally a mix of 1 part engine oil (say SAE 40) and 3 parts kerosene would make for a good chain cleaning agent. But the idea of cleaning is actually to clean the chain externals and get that micro-dust out from between the link plates. So overuse of any solvent or too enthusiastic an effort to clean the chain is not really needed. And being regular with cleaning will preclude the need for going overboard with cleaning solvents anyway.