Motorcycle Detailing Thread

[Pinaki]

as long as the government continues to subsidise "mitti ka tel" . Other than as an aerosol spray(which contains other solvents and a propellant) wd40 is also available as a non aerosol liquid, which I bought once and then I came to appreciate how similar it is to ordinary kerosene fuel .

1) as long as "touching up" doesn't involve painting huge patches it'll be fine - no one is about to check your engine down there with a magnifying glass
2) for polishing unpainted engine parts a small buffing wheel on a rotary tool(like a dremel) is good . If it's painted , you can't buff it , have no other choice than to use a mild solvent with a suitable stiff brush that can reach the cranny spaces .
3) no - dishwash or even tide powder in warm water is an excellent degreaser . Engine paint is quite tough stuff - much tougher than other paints .
4) noHomemade Engine Degreaser | eHow.com

[Prith]

as long as the government continues to subsidise "mitti ka tel" . Other than as an aerosol spray(which contains other solvents and a propellant) wd40 is also available as a non aerosol liquid, which I bought once and then I came to appreciate how similar it is to ordinary kerosene fuel .

1) as long as "touching up" doesn't involve painting huge patches it'll be fine - no one is about to check your engine down there with a magnifying glass
2) for polishing unpainted engine parts a small buffing wheel on a rotary tool(like a dremel) is good . If it's painted , you can't buff it , have no other choice than to use a mild solvent with a suitable stiff brush that can reach the cranny spaces .
3) no - dishwash or even tide powder in warm water is an excellent degreaser . Engine paint is quite tough stuff - much tougher than other paints .
4) noHomemade Engine Degreaser | eHow.com

100 + for Pinaki ji's advice. Go for aviation or white kerosene (hard to lay hands on). Works like charm.

BloggingWheels : You can alternatively try Diesel. Since you want to have that "shining" engine, there is nothing better than Diesel for your case. Since engine paints are classified as high temperature paints/ thermal enamels (resistent to high temperature variations) it is safe to use degreasers on them. But lately I have come across some cases in local mechanic shop where one Honda guy came complaining about paint peeling off from his bike's bore. Not sure if that is covered under warranty. Todays diesel come with multiple additives which are nothing but by products of crude waxes and these are added to bring that "smooth" drive in diesel engines. These waxes also aid in giving a protective layer on surfaces by repelling water and soap suds (need good elbow wax to rub this wax out). Having said that, it also attracts dust. I have a Pulsar 150 UGIII with silver alloys and engine. I have used Motul/ Wurth / Cyclo and what not. I had some which had mild sulphuric acid in them which burned off my gear instruction label on the engine. When it comes to degreasers nothing works better than mild painter brush, Petrol/Kerosene/Diesel. But since we have to jump some clauses in your case, the best option is to use either white kerosene or diesel from local bunk.

Make sure to wipe it thoroughly before you start your engine, else you will end up with dusty engine within few days.

Just a wild thought, some auto geeks advice engine lacquer for having that lasting shine. Not sure if its available in Indian markets.

[Shibadip]

On a lighter vein:
Jay Ho Kerosene Devta!! For all those who are reading this and elsewhere on the forum, Pinaki da is perhaps the only guy (in the World) whose every solution revolves around kerosene! It well might be the case that he is a government deployed officer under cover who promotes kerosene as an Indian equivalent of WD-40 and other US (aerosol) cleaners! It amazes me no end that how most of his solutions revolve around kerosene; his projection of kerosene as the omnipotent chemical sometimes makes me think that this man must have been in the petrochemical fractionating industry and thus his obsession with kero!!! But seriously, hats off to this guy, really!

Nice Observation.. Coming to think of it, It now seems that you r Bang on!!!

LOL ( Pinaki Da = Kerosene Devta) LOL

[BloggingWheels]

@All: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post874385

How my bore looks. Though it does look a bit cleaner than what the pic suggests.

as long as the government continues to subsidise "mitti ka tel" . Other than as an aerosol spray(which contains other solvents and a propellant) wd40 is also available as a non aerosol liquid, which I bought once and then I came to appreciate how similar it is to ordinary kerosene fuel .

1) as long as "touching up" doesn't involve painting huge patches it'll be fine - no one is about to check your engine down there with a magnifying glass my eyes are too finicky!
2) for polishing unpainted engine parts a small buffing wheel on a rotary tool(like a dremel) is good . If it's painted , you can't buff it , have no other choice than to use a mild solvent with a suitable stiff brush that can reach the cranny spaces . Inputs after seeing the pic?

Sure da! Regarding my original query no.2, you can see in the above pic how my bore looks currently. The 'fins'/'plate' like serrations on the bore---how to polish them? Brushing with kero is no problem. But polishing with brush/toothbrush/even shoe polish brush--for hard to reach areas on the bore?

100 + for Pinaki ji's advice. Go for aviation or white kerosene (hard to lay hands on). Works like charm.

BloggingWheels : You can alternatively try Diesel. Since you want to have that "shining" engine, there is nothing better than Diesel for your case. Since engine paints are classified as high temperature paints/ thermal enamels (resistent to high temperature variations) it is safe to use degreasers on them. But lately I have come across some cases in local mechanic shop where one Honda guy came complaining about paint peeling off from his bike's bore. Not sure if that is covered under warranty. Todays diesel come with multiple additives which are nothing but by products of crude waxes and these are added to bring that "smooth" drive in diesel engines. These waxes also aid in giving a protective layer on surfaces by repelling water and soap suds (need good elbow wax to rub this wax out). Having said that, it also attracts dust. I have a Pulsar 150 UGIII with silver alloys and engine. I have used Motul/ Wurth / Cyclo and what not. I had some which had mild sulphuric acid in them which burned off my gear instruction label on the engine. When it comes to degreasers nothing works better than mild painter brush, Petrol/Kerosene/Diesel. But since we have to jump some clauses in your case, the best option is to use either white kerosene or diesel from local bunk.

Make sure to wipe it thoroughly before you start your engine, else you will end up with dusty engine within few days.

Exactly my point - diesel attracts HUGE amount of dust. And when this gets into those hard to reach areas, it becomes an eye-sore! Also, there is this thing with diesel that makes black parts look a bit 'reddish' after a few days. Case in point is how 'tyres'/rubber parts look when washed with a mixture of detergent (any, incl auto types) with diesel. Might appear shiny, thanks to the 'oil' but not worth using. Pinaki da has given the best advice -
1. Brush with kero
2. Wash with dishwasher detergent and warm water.
3. Dry it off
4. Use a silicone based liquid polish to finish off your efforts.

Just a wild thought, some auto geeks advice engine lacquer for having that lasting shine. Not sure if its available in Indian markets.

You can hit on some auto-detailing videos on YouTube -- lacquer is available but not worth the effort and money spent, esp on Indian bikes. Also, it is hard to find by just its name; different places use different names, including teflon!! One of the closest things you can get to a lacquer (or even a lacquer) is by asking for varnish variants/clear varnish/clear wax even! Happy hunting Prith!

[Pinaki]

Yes , I see now - quite a careless job the ASC has done there , they slipped the wrench while taking out your spark plug etc .
Yes , it is difficult to get a toothbrush in there , unless you modify it . You have to shave off some of the plastic on the head and trim the bristles to half their length. Unfortunately a stiff non-metalic brush of suitable size is not available here .

Don't worry , kerosene is harmless on set paint and shall leave no deposits by itself . To match the paint colour you have to mix black with some light grey or white . For metalic sheen mix some aluminium paint in too - though I believe that hard black enamel by itself would not stand out much here . Since the metal itsef is abraded at several spots , you'll need to sand it smooth (the best you can) beforehand . First 80-100 grit folowed with 400-600 . Then clean up real well . Then touch-up paint with No 2 synthetic brush(camlin brush for acrylic paints) . Then ride for a few days to let engine heat set the paint . Then you can polish if you want shine . Don't use wax etc based polish - they'll burn in the engine heat and form sticky deposits . No such problem with liquid siicone polish .

None of the clear lacquer available here is heat resistant , so unsuitable for use on engine parts . Shall soon flake off .
Otherwise a good clear lacquer for auto-detailing work is clear nail-polish . No need to buy maybelline , just buy elco - works as well here . Elco nailpoish thinner / remover is a good substitute for acetone (carburetor cleaner) too .

[BloggingWheels]

Regarding the liquid silicone polish, I think you are referring to this: SILICON LIQUID POLISH ?

I wanted to have the entire engine head replaced under warranty and had even mailed to Hero; spoken to their Service representative in Ranchi over the phone. He was going on leave the next day, I got busy with my transfer to jamshedpur from kolkata, + other engagements and i didn't pursue it further. I had already fought looong battle a few months before for replacement of my wheel alloys under warranty - I did succeed but really frustrated me out. It took 2+ months to close the call. had geared up for this too, but just couldn't inspire self for this fight!

The guys at the SVC here had told me that if I wanted, I could have the engine head re-painted. Of course, at a cost. But again, after some consultation many of the senior xbhpians including PSR sir advised me against it as there is no guarantee that the paint will not start chipping/peeling off again. So wanted to try out some home remedies.
As for now, I think I will go for some thorough brushing with kero, washing with warm utensil detergent and then polishing it off using the waxpol silicone polish.

One more question da: Can the same product be used to polish the painted parts of the motorcycle including the black alloys? I have always used the waxpol orange tin (since my bicycle days)!; tried out 3M liquid wax but soon found out that it was not as good as the orange one.

[mechravi]

can anyone tell me where can i get cheap paint protection film in pune it can be clear or the sticker type but it has to be cheap


thanks

[mayank.travadi]

I used motomax cream Polish recently on my bike and scooter...but i see no water beading...when ipour water on the tank or any other part...the water just flows down in a small stream...i am confused now...between what is wax polish cream polish silicone polish...simple polish...everything seems to be doing the same stuff...give shine to the bike...

what is the most pocket friendly product to give a good shine + protection to your bikes painted surface??

the motomax cream polish seemed good and very simple to apply but i read that if water beading is not there then there is no protection...

[Pinaki]

Regarding the liquid silicone polish, I think you are referring to this: SILICON LIQUID POLISH ?
.....
One more question da: Can the same product be used to polish the painted parts of the motorcycle including the black alloys? I have always used the waxpol orange tin (since my bicycle days)!; tried out 3M liquid wax but soon found out that it was not as good as the orange one.

Yes , that is the one . Yes , I agree that the waxpol solid wax (orange tub) is about the best desi wax-polish you can get for your money . I use it too . But it's quite a bit of work and doesn't work well on some parts like matt finish plastics/paint, engraved patterns etc . It stays on like hell , however - rain or snow . This silicon liquid polish is a great economical one-for-everything polish , applicable everywhere on the bike(bare metal, plastics, paint, seat , cable-casings , spokes & alloys headlamp glass, meters glass , ... ) , works amazingly well on chrome too . It is pleasantly easy to apply(clear liquid) and buff . It does not stay on more than a week or so - less if it rains . Solely because of it's ease of use and great shine , I tend to pick it up only nowdays .
3M's liquid wax is synthetic polymer wax - a paint sealant basically .
The adage with wax - easy on is easy gone .
Sorry to hear about your troubles with the ASC . However , if the engine is running well don't change head etc for the appearance . Try to touch it up the best you can and forget about it . There is no guarantee that the new head they fix you with would run as well as the one you have now - given their track records and fitment skills .

...but i see no water beading...when ipour water on the tank or any other part...
what is the most pocket friendly product to give a good shine + protection to your bikes painted surface?? ..

Mayank , if you want to see water skimming off the bike like that, try the waxpol solid wax . For imported stuff(ie $$$) try turtle hard-shell solid wax .

[mayank.travadi]

no no...i do not want imported stuff...till i get a job..i'll always be short on cash...so nice cheap stuff is good for me...this waxpol wax...is it available at hardware stores? i've heard its sort of a universal wax..
and this silicone polish u are talking about..is it just for shine or does it protect the bikes painted surface too?

i am not converned about water beading or skimming off..i just want the paint to stay good and shiny even after years of usage

[BloggingWheels]

no no...i do not want imported stuff...till i get a job..i'll always be short on cash...so nice cheap stuff is good for me...this waxpol wax...is it available at hardware stores? i've heard its sort of a universal wax..
and this silicone polish u are talking about..is it just for shine or does it protect the bikes painted surface too?

i am not converned about water beading or skimming off..i just want the paint to stay good and shiny even after years of usage

About the silicone polish:
1. It is liquid and hence easy to apply and buff off.
2. Works on about everything including plastic parts and matt finish metal surfaces.
3. Again, available easily at hardware / auto shops.
4. Protection with shine; however not like the pure hard carnauba wax.
No problems if you cannot afford an imported one; even I can't - so I work it out with the Orange tin. I use this for my plastic parts including mudguards and matt finish plastics: VINYL LEATHER POLISH AND DASHBOARD POLISH

But a word of advise for it - Instantly off once comes in contact with water. Take your pick. Lots of Desi options available. MotoMax is also good.

Mayank we are talking about this: AUTO POLISH
Takes a lot of effort to buff off but gives a great shine and "stays on like hell" (quoting Pinaki da)! If you've ever heard 'cheap and best' don't gel; this is something contradicting that observation. Easily available everywhere. But take care while using this on matt finish (unpainted) plastics. After drying it becomes whitish and no amount of rubbing/buffing will take that off. But use it on painted metal and you get the best of Desi Wax!
Directions for use:
1. Wet a soft cloth (damp only) with water.
2. Apply on the intended part using the cloth. (Don't apply too thickly otherwise it will be a real pain to polish it off!)
3. Very little time required to dry.
4. Buff really rapid with a soft cloth to see your motorcycle gleam.
5. Take it for a ride in the sun!

[mayank.travadi]

@blogging wheels thanks
i'll surely try this orange tin next time...first on my ageing scooter and if i think i can do that hardwork of buffing the hard wax i'll try on my bike


btw yesterday i was washing my bike and after wiping i dunno why i opened up my petrol lid on the tank...there was no water around to seep but while washing water might have entered because i could see droplets of water on the inside edge of the tank...how do i prevent this from happening? i know water will go down as it is heavier than petrol and i wont have problem till water reaches such a level that it starts entering the pipe leading petrol to the carb and consequently to the engine...

how do i go about this?

[aargee]

how do i go about this?

1. Don't water wash unless & until it's absolutely necessary
2. Use Wash mitt & a bucket of water to remove the soil/excessive dirt; though painful, can avoid several issues
3. Use pressure wash in the lower areas of the motorcycle where the dirt are more prone & causes less damage from pressure wash like underneath fenner, bottom of engine & not the upper part

[mayank.travadi]

1. Don't water wash unless & until it's absolutely necessary
2. Use Wash mitt & a bucket of water to remove the soil/excessive dirt; though painful, can avoid several issues
3. Use pressure wash in the lower areas of the motorcycle where the dirt are more prone & causes less damage from pressure wash like underneath fenner, bottom of engine & not the upper part

I live in a multi "winged" building with very cramped up parking space and no provision of pressure wash...i always wash with a bucket and a mug every 3 weeks or so.....well if i dont wash regularly how do i clean the bike..wiping the settled dirt with a cloth causes swirl marks doesnt it?

[aargee]

i always wash with a bucket and a mug

Good

wiping the settled dirt with a cloth causes swirl marks doesnt it?

Use MF cloth; guaranteed, there will be no swirl marks, unless a dirty MF is used without cleaning