Engine Oils

[madhav krishna]

somewhere i had read that the engine flush would harm the engine.

[n_aditya]

Yes, you can use 15W50 instead of 20W50, wouldnt make much of a difference. It would infact be good in winters.

Thanks for the reply. I'll buy the oil in a day or two.

There is no need to flush. Flushing is fart. Semi-synthetic is more than 70% mineral oil anyway. Just drain and use any oil that you like.

nicely put and the latter part makes sense. Thanks.

while moving from Mineral to SS or FS (or any other such combination), a change of oil-filter is necessary though, right?

Its better to change the oil filter while changing oil from one grade to another or changing from mineral to SS / FS. Normally one does not switch back from FS to SS or mineral.

[RoadZilla]

Just changed the oil and a jump from SS to FS. A change from Yamahalube 20W40 to Petronas Sprinta 5000 4T 10W40. Will post review soon.Just 30 kms done till now.

I hope this change from 20W40 to 10W40 doesnt impact the bike too much.

[n_aditya]

I hope this change from 20W40 to 10W40 doesnt impact the bike too much.

It wont. In fact your engine will be subjected to lesser wear and tear in the winters since you have an oil that is less viscous at low temperatures. Meaning it will take a shorter amount of time for the oil to circulate and lubricate the moving parts.

[RoadZilla]

It wont. In fact your engine will be subjected to lesser wear and tear in the winters since you have an oil that is less viscous at low temperatures. Meaning it will take a shorter amount of time for the oil to circulate and lubricate the moving parts.

Lets see...anyways it doesnt getting any colder in here at Mumbai/Pune.hardly drops below 25deg in Winter.

Thanks!

[on wheels]

Just changed the oil and a jump from SS to FS. A change from Yamahalube 20W40 to Petronas Sprinta 5000 4T 10W40. Will post review soon.Just 30 kms done till now.

I hope this change from 20W40 to 10W40 doesnt impact the bike too much.

10W40 is rather good for your machine rather than 20W40. The 10W40 flow easily in your engine and provides better protection and cooling.

Petronas has launched a new product world wide(thanks to Petronas, "India" is in their list) - "Petronus Syntium Moto RS4(10W40, JASO MA2, API SM)". Probably the Petronas Sprinta 5000 is no longer available in the Indian market - except the old stock.
Has anybody used - Petronas Syntium Moto RS4???
Please post your review.

[tibby]

i have changed from yamalube (mineral) to agip racing (synthetic) without any change of filters or engine flushing. Didnt faced any problem yet.

I am not sure, but logically if it is not a good practise to leave the oil filter unchanged, you would see the difference a little down the line.
How much KM has your bike done after the above change of oil?

Its better to change the oil filter while changing oil from one grade to another or changing from mineral to SS / FS. Normally one does not switch back from FS to SS or mineral.

I will switch back from Yamalube SS to Yamalube Mineral shortly. I felt the SS is useless for more than double the price of Mineral (both Yamalube).
FS is not required as I use the bike mostly for daily commute, and occassional weekend rides. No high performance extraction requirements from my end.

[Sarvajit]

I will switch back from Yamalube SS to Yamalube Mineral shortly. I felt the SS is useless for more than double the price of Mineral (both Yamalube).
FS is not required as I use the bike mostly for daily commute, and occassional weekend rides. No high performance extraction requirements from my end.

Even if you do not use it for high performance, the very fact that the oil lasts twice as long as mineral&keeps the bike running cooler is a good enough reason to use it, IMO.
Yamalube mineral cost: Rs.230, lasts upto 2K kms.
Semi synth cost: Rs.430, lasts upto 4K kms.
And btw, the oil gets spoilt much faster in stop-go traffic than at high speeds on highways!
I'm waiting for my regular SVC to get stock of the fully synthetic Yamalube, I heard its 10w40 so it would be a thinner oil, helping the bike to revv more freely&also it will circulate faster in colder weather being thinner in viscosity.

[n_aditya]

And btw, the oil gets spoilt much faster in stop-go traffic than at high speeds on highways!

+1 on that. There is higher engine load and stress while riding in the city with stop and go traffic. On the highways, one generally rides on the top gear so there is minimal load on the engine and gearbox.

I will switch back from Yamalube SS to Yamalube Mineral shortly. I felt the SS is useless for more than double the price of Mineral (both Yamalube).

Why not switch to Motul Semi-synth oil. Do you have to stick to Yamaha products only?

[tibby]

Even if you do not use it for high performance, the very fact that the oil lasts twice as long as mineral&keeps the bike running cooler is a good enough reason to use it, IMO.
Yamalube mineral cost: Rs.230, lasts upto 2K kms.
Semi synth cost: Rs.430, lasts upto 4K kms.
And btw, the oil gets spoilt much faster in stop-go traffic than at high speeds on highways!
I'm waiting for my regular SVC to get stock of the fully synthetic Yamalube, I heard its 10w40 so it would be a thinner oil, helping the bike to revv more freely&also it will circulate faster in colder weather being thinner in viscosity.

I mentioned the high-performance thingy for the FS option bro. I did not like the Yamalube SS, and thought it was good only for the first 500Kms maybe. After that it has infact made the performance sluggish, and the gearshifts harder!!
BTW, there are 2 variants in Yamalube Mineral. The one recommended for use in Owner's Manual costs 185, & the other one you have mentioned above.

+1 on that. There is higher engine load and stress while riding in the city with stop and go traffic. On the highways, one generally rides on the top gear so there is minimal load on the engine and gearbox.

Why not switch to Motul Semi-synth oil. Do you have to stick to Yamaha products only?

Agreed!
Its not like I need/want to stick to Yamalube only, but Yamalube is essentially repackaged Motul (Mineral & SS; Not sure about Yamalube FS launched recently), marketed by Yamaha. So wouldn't make a difference if I used Motul or Yamalube.

[Sarvajit]

I mentioned the high-performance thingy for the FS option bro. I did not like the Yamalube SS, and thought it was good only for the first 500Kms maybe. After that it has infact made the performance sluggish, and the gearshifts harder!!

Yes, switching from mineral to semi/full synthetic does make the engine growl a bit, but all I'm saying is don't jump to conclusions-that smoothens out over time. And performance difference is really felt at higher speeds.

BTW, there are 2 variants in Yamalube Mineral. The one recommended for use in Owner's Manual costs 185, & the other one you have mentioned above.

Yes, I am aware both are mineral.

[tibby]

Yes, switching from mineral to semi/full synthetic does make the engine growl a bit, but all I'm saying is don't jump to conclusions-that smoothens out over time. And performance difference is really felt at higher speeds.

3k Kms after I switched to SS, and it doesn't seem to have smoothened out yet.
I recollect quite a few members recommending Yamalube Mineral over Yamalube SS for the R15.

[madhav krishna]

I am not sure, but logically if it is not a good practise to leave the oil filter unchanged, you would see the difference a little down the line.
How much KM has your bike done after the above change of oil?

around 2k kms

[madhav krishna]

guys i have a question here.

How to determine that how much more kms can the oil in my bike run before being spoilt. The oil is agip full synthetic & has run only 2000kms.

[nageswer]

Flush oils..

Hi all,Can anybody suggest me a good engine flush oil?

Is it mandatory to flush engine with flushing oil while shifting from one type to other oils(mineral oil to ss oil/fs oil or vise-versa) or is there any time period for flushing engine......