Engine Oils

[paulsonaivy]

hello anindyamiester
that must be your conclusion,but for me this is the world best engine oil or additive,i have throughly tested this and specially the innova ,which is a diesel version done 119000 ,its not done a oil change for the past 70000 kms ,and the performancee is much better then a new innova plus the oil is like new,
have to use it to comment ,
here organic mean its in pure form with out any chemical additives ,which are normally used in most of the oils and oil additives
rgds paul

[anindyameister]

hello anindyamiester
that must be your conclusion,but for me this is the world best engine oil or additive,i have throughly tested this and specially the innova ,which is a diesel version done 119000 ,its not done a oil change for the past 70000 kms ,and the performancee is much better then a new innova plus the oil is like new,
have to use it to comment ,
here organic mean its in pure form with out any chemical additives ,which are normally used in most of the oils and oil additives
rgds paul

If you are saying that the oil is that good then I want to know how are you so sure that it is a "Pure" organic oil ?? Maybe it has some kind of additives, otherwise it becomes very hard to believe, pure oil extracted out of plants can lubricate an engine that well for 70000 KM. And oil used in car is entirely different from oil used in bikes. Most bike engines have wet clutch, and that commands different properties for an oil than an oil meant for car engines.

[paulsonaivy]

well buddy,even i had the same feeling like you had (impossible), when i got the gtoil for the first time, even i felt what is this little quantity going to do to a 150 cc bike engine,
the gtoil only works where there is heat and friction on metal parts,so doesnot matter if its a 2 wheeler or four wheeler,and having a wet clutch.
the oil is totally organic ,bcos i got the analysis report has well as the MSDS certificate, which clearly states whats in the oil,
but wont be able to disclose it
sorry friends
but yes this is the best oil or additive,thats for sure , bcos of my experince,
what else can i say

[anindyameister]

well buddy,even i had the same feeling like you had (impossible), when i got the gtoil for the first time, even i felt what is this little quantity going to do to a 150 cc bike engine,
the gtoil only works where there is heat and friction on metal parts,so doesnot matter if its a 2 wheeler or four wheeler,and having a wet clutch.
the oil is totally organic ,bcos i got the analysis report has well as the MSDS certificate, which clearly states whats in the oil,
but wont be able to disclose it
sorry friends
but yes this is the best oil or additive,thats for sure , bcos of my experince,
what else can i say

What you say seems magical. It ignores the heat and friction from the cork like material on the clutch plates and specifically works on the metal parts ? Then why haven't we heard of this GT Oil before ?

[sinnerz2000]

Where can i get this oil and is it better than motul and gulf? Whats the price?

[paulsonaivy]

you will hear it ,but slow and steady

[paulsonaivy]

you can get the oil from mumbai,send me private mail

[anindyameister]

GT Oil website lists only cars as tested vehicles. Without positive testimonials from 2 wheeler owners who have tried this oil, I don't think it would be wise to experiment with our machines. We have seen the same thing with boric powder before, when some users claimed magical improvement and some said that it just clogged their crankcase and clutch plates.

[Dan_GP]

Can I use Motul 300V 10W30 fully synthetic oil in my ZMR?? I heard that the Easter base of the oil might cause problems for the catalytic converter of ZMR

And also, some websites suggests that Easter based synthetics should not use in street bike which has catalytic converters too...

Anyone here using Motul 300V in their ZMR, and oil experts, Please give your ideas.. Coz I'm currently having some overheating issues, no problem with the oil cooler as per service and the oil switch to a FS seems to be the only option available..

[Pinaki]

Yes , you can use 10w30 FS (double-ester) motul 300v in your bike , no problem . But why do you think that would take care of your overheating issues ?? FS oils have marginal better cooling in bike engines than mineral, mainly just because they flow better .
Try a bottle of motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 or gulf pride 4T 20w40 first , for 200 odd rupees , before you buy that expensive hard-to-get oil .

[Dan_GP]

Yes , you can use 10w30 FS (double-ester) motul 300v in your bike , no problem . But why do you think that would take care of your overheating issues ?? FS oils have marginal better cooling in bike engines than mineral, mainly just because they flow better .
Try a bottle of motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 or gulf pride 4T 20w40 first , for 200 odd rupees , before you buy that expensive hard-to-get oil .

Yep, I currently using Castrol 20W40 mineral (100% sure it is original), not much change of the character from the crap HH 10W30 oil(much smoother and easy gear shifts by the way).. And the overheating issue is more psycological I guess(that all I can think) as service ppl could not find any fault with either oil cooler or the AFR mixture.. But still it does heat so much that I can smell the burning smell when I'm riding even in highways without the clutch or brake usage even within first 5-10kms..

And more, I feel vibrations and harshness from the engine(more significant within 4 - 5k rpm) and I use this bike for extensive travelling, say 1000 odd kms in a single day, continuously for 200kms at least. So I think using FS oil would be more appropriate.

And what about the effect on catalytic converter with the said oil, as features explaining that this oil is not for the street bike with Catalytic converters and also I have read somewhere that ZMR should not use oils which are based on (biological derivatives I guess) easters.. Sorry if the above details are wrong as I cannot remember these exactly..

Thank you very much for the views

[hellbreaker46]

I don't think catalytic converter of your bike will have problems if you use FS oil. Just use the recommended grade. I don't know if 10w30 is available with Motul. IMO Using 15W50 would be more appropriate for indian conditions. and BTW all the engine oils are based on biological derivatives.
Yesterday I had the 1st svc of my Ninja. I switched to Motul 3100 gold 20W50 (mineral oil). It cost me 600 for a pair of them and guess what; the engine has become smoother right from the word go, especially the gear shifts.

[siddhesh]

Kariizma oil change

I own a 2011 karizma r n I m looking for a oil change as my bike is due for 2nd service bt I m nt happy wit the hh 10w30.engine seems to get heat up more in span of 5-8kms and also gear shifts are hard so guys pls recomment me a gud oil!!!

[Pinaki]

you can get the oil from mumbai,send me private mail

Sounded very much like other snake-oils to me all over paul . Do you work for/sell the GToil ?

Yep, I currently using Castrol 20W40 mineral (100% sure it is original), not much change of the character from the crap HH 10W30 oil(much smoother and easy gear shifts by the way).. And the overheating issue is more psycological I guess(that all I can think) as service ppl could not find any fault with either oil cooler or the AFR mixture.. But still it does heat so much that I can smell the burning smell when I'm riding even in highways without the clutch or brake usage even within first 5-10kms..
And more, I feel vibrations and harshness from the engine(more significant within 4 - 5k rpm) and I use this bike for extensive travelling, say 1000 odd kms in a single day, continuously for 200kms at least. So I think using FS oil would be more appropriate.
And what about the effect on catalytic converter with the said oil, as features explaining that this oil is not for the street bike with Catalytic converters and also I have read somewhere that ZMR should not use oils which are based on (biological derivatives I guess) easters.. Sorry if the above details are wrong as I cannot remember these exactly..
Thank you very much for the views

Yes , Dan'jee , I feel your predicament . The service center guys will never understand the real life problems of us riders . If you are getting that charry smell wafting out of the engine area (and your bike is over 5000 kms old)... your engine is certainly overheating ... whatever the ASC may say . I know that dreadful smell . The harshness etc of your engine is directly related to overheat . If possible , have the bike checked as a whole from a different more reliable place immediately.
I can assure you that there should be no technical problem in using FS motul 300v or for that matter any other good FS oil of 10w30 grade in your kari . The kind of riding you are doing does justify a FS oil . It also makes running a FS oil somewhat more economical than mineral . You should even (more appropriately) use a 15w50/15w40 Full Synthetic oil . Don't worry , no problem with HH catalytic converters & FS oil reported ever .Also do tell us about the climate(temps) you usually encounter during your long rides and oil change intervals .

..Yesterday I had the 1st svc of my Ninja. I switched to Motul 3100 gold 20W50 (mineral oil). It cost me 600 for a pair of them and guess what; the engine has become smoother right from the word go, especially the gear shifts.

What ? Is this a new oil from motul ? Never seen it in shop yet .. kindly hellbreaker'jee .. more details & pics plzzz ?

I own a 2011 karizma r n I m looking for a oil change as my bike is due for 2nd service bt I m nt happy wit the hh 10w30.engine seems to get heat up more in span of 5-8kms and also gear shifts are hard so guys pls recomment me a gud oil!!!

Common complain from ZMR riders , specially when the bike is new and I keep hearing this (not just here on xbhp too) . HH 10w30 oil comes in 3 makes(varieties) .. BPCL(mak) / Savita Chem(Idemitsu) / TideWater-veedol(nippon oil) . Can you find/tell us exactly which one they are pouring in your engine at your ASC ? the maker is written on the back label of bottle .
Anyway, it is common for new engines to heat up (a lot).. not a specific problem.. unless this persists after say 5000 kms . You just have to be careful to not let it get too hot .. and rest the bike to cool it along the way if needed . Too hot is when a drop of water(or spit) placed on the engine casing,evaporates(disappears completely) almost instantaneously( within 1-2 secs ) .
I would have suggested you to shift to a good 20w40 oil , but the problem in that is .. using any oil other than the HH 10w30 will void the engine warranty on your new bike , something you don't want with an expensive bike like the kari-zmr .

[anindyameister]

Sounded very much like other snake-oils to me all over paul . Do you work for/sell the GToil ?

The website makes some pretty bold statements which are too good to be true. Seriously paul, are you here to promote this product ?

Anyway, it is common for new engines to heat up (a lot).. not a specific problem.. unless this persists after say 5000 kms . You just have to be careful to not let it get too hot .. and rest the bike to cool it along the way if needed . Too hot is when a drop of water(or spit) placed on the engine casing,evaporates(disappears completely) almost instantaneously( within 1-2 secs ) .

Well my engine gets pretty hot too, but as you suggested my bike is new, I am ignoring it till the engine beds in properly in about 5k kms. After a descent distance ride when I stop, hot air and the smell of heated metal comes up. No charring smell of the rubber parts though. The cylinder head can be touched with fingers but the lower part is the hottest. Once I burnt my index finger with a blister the size of a grape when absent minded me tried to clean some dirt off the bend-pipe. Service center guys tell me it's normal for a 350cc long stroke engine, but personally I would have liked it a little bit cooler. Maybe the changeover to Motul 3000 will help the engine run cooler.