Engine Oils

[octane_fx]

I NEED TO KNOW BEST FS oil grade and make for my bikes

i tried Shell AX-7 Semi synth in my 2006 Bajaj CT-100 , i see no engine smoothness at all ,

i want to switch to full synth ,

please recommend best FS engine oil for 2006 Bajaj CT-100 and 2003 Karizma

I need to know best Oil grade and brand to use for both

THanks

[vivekgautams]

adding 50% ax5 will definately work.. But the drained oil should be disposed/used within a month/or put in some other bike.. It shouldnt be mixed with remaining quantiry of ax5.. You will end up oxidising both the oils.

That what I was wondering..Is AX5 available in 500ml..?
Or I'l use the same oil for another 2k km ,then change off to AX7..??

[nilesh14587]

Hello guys,

I am a newbie in this world. Just bought my 1st bike, pulsar 200ns. Have clocked about 200km so far. And thnking of changing of oil now. Following are the things I learned from xBHP so far. This thread is awesome.

1. Use mineral oil in initial phase of run in as it allows proper friction in run period unlike thicker synthetic oils. Then switch to SS for few more kms and then FS thereafter.
2. Change oil after first 200km or so as in this phase most run in happens and oil contains metal particles.

So I am looking for best mineral oil for NS. Recommended grade is 20W50. I don't know what kind DTSi 10000 oil is.

Please advise best mineral oil for now, semi synthetic oil at.first service and fully synthetic oil for second service.

[catchdoon]

Hello guys,

I am a newbie in this world. Just bought my 1st bike, pulsar 200ns. Have clocked about 200km so far. And thnking of changing of oil now. Following are the things I learned from xBHP so far. This thread is awesome.

1. Use mineral oil in initial phase of run in as it allows proper friction in run period unlike thicker synthetic oils. Then switch to SS for few more kms and then FS thereafter.
2. Change oil after first 200km or so as in this phase most run in happens and oil contains metal particles.

So I am looking for best mineral oil for NS. Recommended grade is 20W50. I don't know what kind DTSi 10000 oil is.

Please advise best mineral oil for now, semi synthetic oil at.first service and fully synthetic oil for second service.

Well yeah, use of the Mineral oil allows the new engine to set in very nicely and doesn't hamper the life of the engine at the initial stage.

The question you asked about using Mineral>>SS>>FS subjects to personal use and there is NO hard and fast rule about following the same. some people even after clocking 20k+ km use Mineral oils. It's your own personal wish and Choice.

Well yea, the drain out period of Mineral oil is 2k Km, but then again the most of it is still dependent on personal use. Stretching your bike limits will cause you to drain out the oil faster. Also if for 2.5 odd months, you have hardly ridden the mineral oil needs to be drained still and replaced.

Anyways for your own reference, I will write a comparison as under:
Here's short Pros & Cons!
FS Pros:
- lasts long (easily upto 4k kms)
- great cleaning properties
- best tolerance to heat & other degrading factors (breakdown starts at 160' C)
- best performance
Cons:
- costly
- longer lasting means longer change interval; because of this some experts say, old & partially degraded oil stays inside engine. Hence not good.
- users have reported, these oils evaporate sooner than any other kind.
Mineral Pros:
- cheapest in its kind.
- frequent oil change interval (max 2000kms) [this will keep engine clean]
- ok performance (great value for money for what it provides)
Cons:
- can not withstand high heat & other degrading factors (breakdown starts at High Temp)
- only 'ok' kind of cleaning properties in oil itself. (that's why engine cleanliness depends on oil changes)

SS:
- something between mineral & FS
- better performance than mineral
- change interval similar to mineral or in some cases lower than mineral
- mid way pricing
- better cleaning properties than mineral!


Rest is for you to decide!

[muztariq]

Well yeah, use of the Mineral oil allows the new engine to set in very nicely and doesn't hamper the life of the engine at the initial stage.

The question you asked about using Mineral>>SS>>FS subjects to personal use and there is NO hard and fast rule about following the same. some people even after clocking 20k+ km use Mineral oils. It's your own personal wish and Choice.

Well yea, the drain out period of Mineral oil is 2k Km, but then again the most of it is still dependent on personal use. Stretching your bike limits will cause you to drain out the oil faster. Also if for 2.5 odd months, you have hardly ridden the mineral oil needs to be drained still and replaced.

Anyways for your own reference, I will write a comparison as under:
Here's short Pros & Cons!
FS Pros:
- lasts long (easily upto 4k kms)
- great cleaning properties
- best tolerance to heat & other degrading factors (breakdown starts at 160' C)
- best performance
Cons:
- costly
- longer lasting means longer change interval; because of this some experts say, old & partially degraded oil stays inside engine. Hence not good.
- users have reported, these oils evaporate sooner than any other kind.
Mineral Pros:
- cheapest in its kind.
- frequent oil change interval (max 2000kms) [this will keep engine clean]
- ok performance (great value for money for what it provides)
Cons:
- can not withstand high heat & other degrading factors (breakdown starts at High Temp)
- only 'ok' kind of cleaning properties in oil itself. (that's why engine cleanliness depends on oil changes)

SS:
- something between mineral & FS
- better performance than mineral
- change interval similar to mineral or in some cases lower than mineral
- mid way pricing
- better cleaning properties than mineral!


Rest is for you to decide!

I would like to put some clarifications -
1. Mineral oil have equally good detergent properties.. Some even have better detergent properties than fs. It all depends on additive package. Not on oil.
2. Mineral oils can be used for 3000 kms on fz. Its more dependant on your manual. 2k is a short interval. Many ppl follow it, but its not mandatory. On a pulsar 220 a good mineral may go bust in 2k. But on splendour it may remain equally good till 3k.

[catchdoon]

I would like to put some clarifications -
1. Mineral oil have equally good detergent properties.. Some even have better detergent properties than fs. It all depends on additive package. Not on oil.
2. Mineral oils can be used for 3000 kms on fz. Its more dependant on your manual. 2k is a short interval. Many ppl follow it, but its not mandatory. On a pulsar 220 a good mineral may go bust in 2k. But on splendour it may remain equally good till 3k.

I have quoted already " It all depends on personal usage"! Serves the same purpose now, doesn't it?

[nilesh14587]

Thank you both of you for the knowledge, @muztariq and @catchdoon.

Could you please also recommend some specific miniral oil for now? I was thnking of Motul 3000 20w50 mineral oil.

EDIT: motul 3000 20w50 exists on internet only I think, went to dealer. He said no such oil.exists.... any other option?

[madhav krishna]

Thank you both of you for the knowledge, @muztariq and @catchdoon.

Could you please also recommend some specific miniral oil for now? I was thnking of Motul 3000 20w50 mineral oil.

EDIT: motul 3000 20w50 exists on internet only I think, went to dealer. He said no such oil.exists.... any other option?

You can look for motul 3100 gold. Sales for something around 300 bucks.

[FranklySpeaking]

Thank you both of you for the knowledge, @muztariq and @catchdoon.

Could you please also recommend some specific miniral oil for now? I was thnking of Motul 3000 20w50 mineral oil.

EDIT: motul 3000 20w50 exists on internet only I think, went to dealer. He said no such oil.exists.... any other option?

Motul 3000 15W50 is what Royal Enfield Service centers use. Not sure if it is available outside. You may go to them with a bottle. I do not think they would have any issue selling it to you out of the drums that they have.

[yackoa]

problem after I switched to Motul 71004T from Bajaj 10k mineral oil

I have been using Bajaj's 10k oil for quite sometime now for my Pulsar 180 UG3. It was performing nicely but usually the oil kind off looses its mojo betwenn 800 & 1500 km.

Was planning to go for a trip so i decided to try out Motul's 7100 4T (20W50) (Welcome to Motul)

Smooth , Damn smooth was my first response. Did a tour of 600 kms and when I checked the oil levels & its way low(but the bike still runs smoothly !!). While using bajaj's 10K oil, the level is always above minimum level no matter how many KMs i go (but usually change it after 2000kms )

Check the image below


So my question is did i mess up somewhere while selecting the Motul 71004T ? Is it not recommended ??

Should I stick with Bajaj's 10k oil or try out something else?

[Honda_CBF]

I have been using Bajaj's 10k oil for quite sometime now for my Pulsar 180 UG3. It was performing nicely but usually the oil kind off looses its mojo betwenn 800 & 1500 km.

Was planning to go for a trip so i decided to try out Motul's 7100 4T (20W50) (Welcome to Motul)

Smooth , Damn smooth was my first response. Did a tour of 600 kms and when I checked the oil levels & its way low(but the bike still runs smoothly !!). While using bajaj's 10K oil, the level is always above minimum level no matter how many KMs i go (but usually change it after 2000kms )


So my question is did i mess up somewhere while selecting the Motul 71004T ? Is it not recommended ??

Should I stick with Bajaj's 10k oil or try out something else?

full synthetic oils have a tendency of burning/evoporising, many users have confirmed that.
Oil itself is not the problem.
You should have checked oil level more frequently, riding with low oil can cause severe engine damage.
Top it up asap. (any kind of oil in 20w50 grade can be used, though it will be better to use same oil)
if you dont find any problem with engine then you've been lucky

and if you dont want your bike's engine oil disappear from crankcase then shift to any mineral or ss oil.
Motul 3000 15w50,
motul 3100 20w50 and
valvoline premium 4t 20w50 have been loved by many pulsar owners.
P.s. All mentioned oils are better than bajaj oil.

[catchdoon]

full synthetic oils have a tendency of burning/evoporising, many users have confirmed that.
Oil itself is not the problem.
You should have checked oil level more frequently, riding with low oil can cause severe engine damage.
Top it up asap. (any kind of oil in 20w50 grade can be used, though it will be better to use same oil)
if you dont find any problem with engine then you've been lucky

and if you dont want your bike's engine oil disappear from crankcase then shift to any mineral or ss oil.
Motul 3000 15w50,
motul 3100 20w50 and
valvoline premium 4t 20w50 have been loved by many pulsar owners.
P.s. All mentioned oils are better than bajaj oil.

+1 Anyday!

[yackoa]

full synthetic oils have a tendency of burning/evoporising, many users have confirmed that.
Oil itself is not the problem.
You should have checked oil level more frequently, riding with low oil can cause severe engine damage.
Top it up asap. (any kind of oil in 20w50 grade can be used, though it will be better to use same oil)
if you dont find any problem with engine then you've been lucky

and if you dont want your bike's engine oil disappear from crankcase then shift to any mineral or ss oil.
Motul 3000 15w50,
motul 3100 20w50 and
valvoline premium 4t 20w50 have been loved by many pulsar owners.
P.s. All mentioned oils are better than bajaj oil.

Thanks bro


I had checked the oil levels frequently... !! Thats when i noticed the oil levels were going down I did only less that 650 kms with this oil (motul 20w50) and when i got home after the trip the oil level was dangerously low as seen in the picture in my previous post !
anyway will be changing the oil asap

[Honda_CBF]

Thanks bro


I had checked the oil levels frequently... !! Thats when i noticed the oil levels were going down I did only less that 650 kms with this oil (motul 20w50) and when i got home after the trip the oil level was dangerously low as seen in the picture in my previous post !
anyway will be changing the oil asap

oil change is not required bro. Just top it up with the same grade. Only 200-400ml required. why waste such an expensive oil.
Svc can do that with nominal charge.

[yackoa]

oil change is not required bro. Just top it up with the same grade. Only 200-400ml required. why waste such an expensive oil.
Svc can do that with nominal charge.

Hmm ok. Keeping the grade (20w5O) same i can top it up with any other oil (other than motul ) of the same grade ? Does it mater if i use Semi-synthetic or mineral oil to do a top up (the synthetic oil)