Engine Oils

[Honda_CBF]

Lethe work can only be reliable if the guy doing it is experienced and know what he does.. Ask with the locals for the 'perfect' mechanic. And sorry bro, no idea about cost.. Should not be much though. And if you don't have any cost constraints then changing the casing won't be a problem.

[deepan 63]

Lethe work can only be reliable if the guy doing it is experienced and know what he does.. Ask with the locals for the 'perfect' mechanic. And sorry bro, no idea about cost.. Should not be much though. And if you don't have any cost constraints then changing the casing won't be a problem.

Thanks bro . no prob about the cost , i will ask people in ASC regarding this . but not sure they can bring this spare part soon . have to live with this M seal idea for some days i think . thank you all for your valuable replies

[muztariq]

Thanks bro . no prob about the cost , i will ask people in ASC regarding this . but not sure they can bring this spare part soon . have to live with this M seal idea for some days i think . thank you all for your valuable replies

Just wrap a cloth around the bolt and tighten it. Mseal wont work there. Any good mechanic will do the job for you in 10 mins and a bigger bolt will be installed.

[shoeb2015]

Thanks madhav and krish . yes it is in draining bolt area for sure . jus 5 days before oil was changed krish .. previously i had small leaking in Cylinder head when i start using Motul FS , that became normal after some days . but now i saw some oil on the floor where my bike stands . my local mechanic tested , while the bolt was tightened it was rotating non stop . it dint fix !!!! he told the threads in draining area was gone and needs some lethe works !!!! Motul mineral is available in our area , if i want FS then i have to travel 60kms to get it , so in case i thought for an emergence the minerals could help . you cleared it . once again thanks for ur suggestion .

You would never want that bolt to come off suddenly , draining the oil while riding.
Re-thread it and fix a over-sized bolt or Install a new thread sleeve to use Original size Drain bolt.It is a very common job for any lathe operator,should not cost more than Rs.100/-.

[paul.1911]

Thanks madhav and krish . yes it is in draining bolt area for sure . jus 5 days before oil was changed krish .. previously i had small leaking in Cylinder head when i start using Motul FS , that became normal after some days . but now i saw some oil on the floor where my bike stands . my local mechanic tested , while the bolt was tightened it was rotating non stop . it dint fix !!!! he told the threads in draining area was gone and needs some lethe works !!!! Motul mineral is available in our area , if i want FS then i have to travel 60kms to get it , so in case i thought for an emergence the minerals could help . you cleared it . once again thanks for ur suggestion .

I've suffered this in my bike some times ago. This was happened because of bull sit mechanics who tightened nut with to much force. In fact that is aluminum body and it will surely become damage if tightened too much.
To fix that, crank needs to be taken out and taken to the lathe. They will first fill that hole with aluminum than will create a new thread with tap. In this process lots of aluminum debris will get inside. And then the body needs to be wash carefully completely so that no debris will be left inside. If left by mistake can damage inside. First before adding fresh engine oil, add any old oil and start the bike for few secs then drain out, this will ensure u no debris is left inside. Then add your favorite oil. I didn't remember how much did it cost me.

Oversize bolt cannot be tightened directly, first u need to measure the thickness of the stock bolt with micro-millimeter then u need to buy a bolt that is one step thicker to that also aluminum sealing washer too (without this oil cannot be stopped), u need same thickness of tap also to make a new thread. or just take it to the lathe, but again debris will surely get inside and tap cannot be run without taking the whole engine out. So its better to stick to the stock thread/bolt.

In my case, the below surface was not plain straight and the nut was again not able to create a seal. Then i got that these numb mechanics is not going to solve that problem, then i myself drain the oil and take a file to grind that surface to make it plain. Now i myself the change the engine oil and i use a gasket sealant in washer & tighten the nut with slight force as possible. And it never leaks now, nor it created any problem then, nor i need to change that aluminum sealing washer after so much usage. Else when mechanic tight it every time i was used to change that washer.
But now i've become a D.I.Y so never visit a mechanics now. Visits at very rare cases.

[deepan 63]

Just wrap a cloth around the bolt and tighten it. Mseal wont work there. Any good mechanic will do the job for you in 10 mins and a bigger bolt will be installed.

Thanks Muztariq . I will try this , but confused about using M seal . cloth method seems to be useful yet problem free . i think for temporary , wrapping small cloth , then after fixing i may use m seal for an addition where the bolt head and case touches .

You would never want that bolt to come off suddenly , draining the oil while riding.
Re-thread it and fix a over-sized bolt or Install a new thread sleeve to use Original size Drain bolt.It is a very common job for any lathe operator,should not cost more than Rs.100/-.

Thanks Shoeb . yes i fear about the bolt coming off while riding . here we have a lathe workshop , but worrying about their experience !!! anyhow i am gonna try this sooner as it is the permanent solution .

I've suffered this in my bike some times ago. This was happened because of bull sit mechanics who tightened nut with to much force. In fact that is aluminum body and it will surely become damage if tightened too much.
To fix that, crank needs to be taken out and taken to the lathe. They will first fill that hole with aluminum than will create a new thread with tap. In this process lots of aluminum debris will get inside. And then the body needs to be wash carefully completely so that no debris will be left inside. If left by mistake can damage inside. First before adding fresh engine oil, add any old oil and start the bike for few secs then drain out, this will ensure u no debris is left inside. Then add your favorite oil. I didn't remember how much did it cost me.

Oversize bolt cannot be tightened directly, first u need to measure the thickness of the stock bolt with micro-millimeter then u need to buy a bolt that is one step thicker to that also aluminum sealing washer too (without this oil cannot be stopped), u need same thickness of tap also to make a new thread. or just take it to the lathe, but again debris will surely get inside and tap cannot be run without taking the whole engine out. So its better to stick to the stock thread/bolt. - I will keep this in my mind .

In my case, the below surface was not plain straight and the nut was again not able to create a seal. Then i got that these numb mechanics is not going to solve that problem, then i myself drain the oil and take a file to grind that surface to make it plain. Now i myself the change the engine oil and i use a gasket sealant in washer & tighten the nut with slight force as possible. And it never leaks now, nor it created any problem then, nor i need to change that aluminum sealing washer after so much usage. Else when mechanic tight it every time i was used to change that washer.
But now i've become a D.I.Y so never visit a mechanics now. Visits at very rare cases.

Thanks Paul . i believe my local mechanic , but previously i have changed oil 2 times in a workshop near the store where i bought Motul FS , they have overtightened i think . D.I.Y is a better idea of taking care of our ride as you told !!! i will make my mechanic to remove that case area and will meet lathe workers .

[sandeepcf]

Thanks Muztariq . I will try this , but confused about using M seal . cloth method seems to be useful yet problem free . i think for temporary , wrapping small cloth , then after fixing i may use m seal for an addition where the bolt head and case touches .

Instead of using cloth; try M-seal PTFE thread seal tape which is used by plumbers, costs Rs.10.

Just wrap a cloth around the bolt and tighten it. Mseal wont work there. Any good mechanic will do the job for you in 10 mins and a bigger bolt will be installed.

M-Seal worked on Indica Oil Sump Bolt, but on a permanent basis and For the oil change the mechanic sucked out old engine oil with a tube.
But you cannot do that on a motorcycle which has no separate Oil Filter.

[krish2778]

Oops, as many members suggested , m-seal is a temporary fix. Get it to a lathe shop, re threeading is not the issue, the part to be rethreaded must be removed and thats a headache, that's all, rest is pretty much simple, the lathe guys, might be doing this rethreading stuff like everyday, just tip the guy a few extra buck for him to be extra careful. and no need to have any tensions.!!

Thanks madhav and krish . yes it is in draining bolt area for sure . jus 5 days before oil was changed krish .. previously i had small leaking in Cylinder head when i start using Motul FS , that became normal after some days . but now i saw some oil on the floor where my bike stands . my local mechanic tested , while the bolt was tightened it was rotating non stop . it dint fix !!!! he told the threads in draining area was gone and needs some lethe works !!!! Motul mineral is available in our area , if i want FS then i have to travel 60kms to get it , so in case i thought for an emergence the minerals could help . you cleared it . once again thanks for ur suggestion .

Ah, such fast reduce in oil can mean only one thing, piston ring problem, no other way. Any ways , lets put a rest to that discussion. Not relevant here anymore.

Well heard a lot of times regarding the oil drying up issue just after 1000-1500kms in the ester range of motul in this very same thread long ago. And yeah even my bike did face the same issue around 1300kms of oil usage. Regarding the "pulsars generating more heat", saw a lot of friends with pulsars and many of them have low engine oil level even after just a few hundred kms of oil replacement. I myself topped up the oil level of a friend & it again dipped down to low level just in a few hundred kms.

Note:- Organic compounds (Esters) are more volatile than non-organic compounds. But then again that's just theory.

It shouldn't cost much and it's a quite regular job, so don't overthink it, the svc guys will take care of removing the part and just tip off the lathe guy a few extra bucks to be more careful. and your good.

how this idea dint come to my mind ? . thanks bro .. What do you think about lethe works for threads ?? is it reliable or can i change that particular case area ?? how much will it cost ?? any ideas ??

Cheers
ride Safe
Krishna

[shoeb2015]

M-Seal worked on Indica Oil Sump Bolt, but on a permanent basis and For the oil change the mechanic sucked out old engine oil with a tube.

Why would anyone do that ? A new Oil sump cover is cheap,second hand cover can be found easily and also the damaged sump cover can be re-threaded quite easily after removing it.
Any jugaad work will cause problems later.

[sandeepcf]

Why would anyone do that ? A new Oil sump cover is cheap,second hand cover can be found easily and also the damaged sump cover can be re-threaded quite easily after removing it.
Any jugaad work will cause problems later.

We needed a quick fix after the car hit a rock. Later replaced the whole sump and yes it is indeed cheap-650 only.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Anybody looking to get their drain bolts changed or the drain bolt thread is flat, it's a wise idea to get the drain bolt changed, costs hardly 20 bucks, and 50 to 100 bucks in lathe for the crank case would do the job fine. I happen to do the same for my bike, where the right side of the oil filter bolt thread was flattened out, luckily it was on the side, so removed the clutch cover and gave it lathe, added a sleeve and installed the screw, as brand as new.

Total cost 460 Rupees, just for the lathe work and the screw etc. The rest of opening the engine and installing, etc etc is an added "bonus"

P.S. Never ever use waste as the old "plumbing trick" to tighten the drain bolt, it's completely different from what we do here in plumbing, the bolt is always under a little pressure of heat and expansion and contraction, inevitably the drain bolt will loosen itself on the run and you don't want that to happen. Replace/repair anything that is underbelly of the engine. My experience.

Jugaad might work temporarily but has the tendency to bike your pocket real deep if it fails, especially when it comes to critical components.

Cheers!
VJ

[muztariq]

Anybody looking to get their drain bolts changed or the drain bolt thread is flat, it's a wise idea to get the drain bolt changed, costs hardly 20 bucks, and 50 to 100 bucks in lathe for the crank case would do the job fine. I happen to do the same for my bike, where the right side of the oil filter bolt thread was flattened out, luckily it was on the side, so removed the clutch cover and gave it lathe, added a sleeve and installed the screw, as brand as new.

Total cost 460 Rupees, just for the lathe work and the screw etc. The rest of opening the engine and installing, etc etc is an added "bonus"

P.S. Never ever use waste as the old "plumbing trick" to tighten the drain bolt, it's completely different from what we do here in plumbing, the bolt is always under a little pressure of heat and expansion and contraction, inevitably the drain bolt will loosen itself on the run and you don't want that to happen. Replace/repair anything that is underbelly of the engine. My experience.

Jugaad might work temporarily but has the tendency to bike your pocket real deep if it fails, especially when it comes to critical components.

Cheers!
VJ

I have used cloth plugged bolt for around 10,000 km on my splendor. Nothing happens. It took the mechanic a lot more effort to remove that plug rather than a good well maintained plug. You cat tighten it so much!

To drain the dead oil from the bike i would get it removed and re-install a fresh cloth. This is a desi jugaad. A similar thing was done on my brother's vespa to tighten the spark plug when the thread of its casing gave way. No problem there too. Its a trick which our mechanic was expert in. We sold the scooter with the cloth+spark plug some years back!!

Regarding splendor.. I took it around an year on the jugaad to another mechanic who inverted the bike horizontally (with engine oil still present in it) took out the remaining threads of the casing and manually drilled a bigger hole using a long T shaped tool. He then put a slightly bigger bolt in it. Took 50 Rs for it(between 2006-2007) and I wondered why did he took that money?? it was so simple!! The bolt never gave way no matter how much you tighten it.

Some mechanics make it look so simple that you actually doubt the labor. Take it to a wrong person and spoil your engine, pay much more and still remain unsatisfied with the job.

[jonahmano]

Just went through Motoman's blog and found out that it's better to use Mineral oil for few thousand miles so that rings get seated better as synthetic oil has chances of preventing seating of the rings properly in the piston.

What are your thoughts guys?

[B7ACKTHORN]

Just went through Motoman's blog and found out that it's better to use Mineral oil for few thousand miles so that rings get seated better as synthetic oil has chances of preventing seating of the rings properly in the piston.

What are your thoughts guys?

That site even mentions, manufacturer recommended break in is literally not effective, as their Motoman method, with the synthetic oil that comes as a standard on the bikes there. Yet instead of fully synthetic, you can use semi syn, which is not that bad after all.

Cheers!
VJ

[jonahmano]

That site even mentions, manufacturer recommended break in is literally not effective, as their Motoman method, with the synthetic oil that comes as a standard on the bikes there. Yet instead of fully synthetic, you can use semi syn, which is not that bad after all.

Cheers!
VJ

He is talking to take the bike till 100 odd km/hr which is 1/3 of the superbike's top speed.( Imagining a R1 can touch 300 km/hr). and our chotta motta 150cc have top speed of 100-110 km/hr. So what would be our 1/3rd speed? Motoman also says the bikes with latest technology don't have tight tolerance between cylinder walls and piston rings and so his theory works very well but what about bikes when tolerance level is very high? I have also learnt that in Asian countries like Malaysia and Indonesia they don't do any run-in and take the bike to top speed even before 100 kms ODO. I also understand that company which gives guarantees to the engines are very crafty doing their part of the run-in the factory itself so that they don't have compensate for early engine seizures.