Engine Oils

[sinnerz2000]

Re: Engine Oils

I'll try 5100 on my next oil change, which is about 3 months later, by then the weather will be way cooler, good conditions to try a 10w40 oil coming from 20w40.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

@B7ACKTHORN if I were to decide between Castrol Power1 Racing and Shell Ultra, which would you prefer for my Honda Unicorn and boy oh boy,


B7ACKTHORN and others please tell me more about this and what Fully synthetic oils , Castrol Power1 Racing and Shell Ultra which is also a synthetic oil and what's the pros/cons of it and I at how many kms the oil should be change (if I am not wrong it must be something like 7k) and a little more info. . . Thanks in advance. . .

Cheers!!!

To keep it simple you can stick with Castrol Power1 racing for your UNICORN for now, as Shell Ultra too is a good oil. But remember Shell Ultra and Castrol both are fully syn. Fully synthetic they contain 100% man made additives which help protect the engine even more than mineral, which doesn't last long and doesn't offer the level of protection that a synthetic gives. So that will give you a certain idea as to what fully synthetic and mineral means.

Semi Syn means a mix of both man made and natural "SEMI" which is the best of both worlds and would suffice our bikes very well. But I'd suggest you to try the Castrol Power one Racing oil, from a genuine dealer.

Having already used Motul 300V 10W40 for my ZMA,I am now thinking of going for Motul 7100 10W40.
All this due to some suggestions that Motul 300V is overkill for street biking.
Is it true that the "7100" is better suited for street biking ?
My usage is mostly street commutes apart from occasional rides.
And I wish to stick to the synthetic oils.
Please share your views.

7100 is nothing different than 5100 as using both I've not found any difference whatsoever even on the 300V all microscopic I guess. 300V definitely an overkill for our spec bikes, I even have a friend of mine who uses 7100 in his CBR1000R. Personally I've always loved the 5100 so many memories and excellent performance.

Go for 5100 if your budget is constrained, if you have the budget then look no else than 7100.

Cheers!
VJ

[Rakesh Rok]

Re: Engine Oils

@B7ACKTHORN will choose between either of the above said fully synthetic oils, Castrol Power1 Racing or Shell Ultra or else if not, will be using the same Shell Advance for sometime and then start using FS oil, let me just see it and thanks for your help. . .

Cheers!!!

[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

@B7ACKTHORN will choose between either of the above said fully synthetic oils, Castrol Power1 Racing or Shell Ultra or else if not, will be using the same Shell Advance for sometime and then start using FS oil, let me just see it and thanks for your help. . .

Cheers!!!

Just make sure you switch to a sythetic blend after quite a while, as it slightly increases the drain interval than the mineral oils. Just a thought.

Cheers!
VJ

[sinnerz2000]

Re: Engine Oils

This chart is helpful in choosing the right viscosity according to ur city's climatic condition, 10w40 seems to be good for both low and high temps, I'll be trying that grade.

[pixantz]

Re: Engine Oils

This chart is helpful in choosing the right viscosity according to ur city's climatic condition, 10w40 seems to be good for both low and high temps, I'll be trying that grade.

[ATTACH]106990[/ATTACH]

Its good as far as oil goes. But one more very vital thing required is to take Engine Temp. in consideration too. That differs across different types of engines at any given working time. For example ripping a Pulsar 220f DTSi for an hour would give you a totally different environment compared to doing the same with, say, a Unicorn etc. just a thought....


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[sinnerz2000]

Re: Engine Oils

Its good as far as oil goes. But one more very vital thing required is to take Engine Temp. in consideration too. That differs across different types of engines at any given working time. For example ripping a Pulsar 220f DTSi for an hour would give you a totally different environment compared to doing the same with, say, a Unicorn etc. just a thought....


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Maybe engine temp isn't required coz that's related to the oil heat range, or to be on safer side lik me my city temp right now is around 20-28 so according to the chart 10w30 is suitable, but since I rip the bike sometimes I'm selecting 10w40 just in case.

[muztariq]

Re: Engine Oils

Its good as far as oil goes. But one more very vital thing required is to take Engine Temp. in consideration too. That differs across different types of engines at any given working time. For example ripping a Pulsar 220f DTSi for an hour would give you a totally different environment compared to doing the same with, say, a Unicorn etc. just a thought....

[pixantz]

Re: Engine Oils

That's a contradicting statement. If all engines work at the same operating temp., then why do they all have different lubricant capacities/fins etc??? Forgive my ignorance... Also, for example, if a 223cc zma needs 900ml while being just air cooled, why does the CBR at 250cc with superior water cooling and still one cylinder need 2.5L?? Then the 220F burns up W40 grade oil if ridden spiritedly, while the CBR250 being bigger capacity doesn't behave the same even with 10W30?? Is this all heat related or am I missing something...


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[nadz11.ns]

Re: Engine Oils

every design has its own limitations for the operating limits.. the engine cylinder design.. the fins.. type of cooling.. everything plays an important role in the operation..
it is always given the oil grade with would give and optimum operation for that design.. temperature also plays an important factor, but it is 'one' of the many factors.. you can't decide which oil to use just on the temperature only..

[muztariq]

Re: Engine Oils

That's a contradicting statement. If all engines work at the same operating temp., then why do they all have different lubricant capacities/fins etc??? Forgive my ignorance... Also, for example, if a 223cc zma needs 900ml while being just air cooled, why does the CBR at 250cc with superior water cooling and still one cylinder need 2.5L?? Then the 220F burns up W40 grade oil if ridden spiritedly, while the CBR250 being bigger capacity doesn't behave the same even with 10W30?? Is this all heat related or am I missing something...


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[Pinaki]

Re: Engine Oils

This chart is helpful in choosing the right viscosity according to ur city's climatic condition, 10w40 seems to be good for both low and high temps, I'll be trying that grade...

Do your riding encounter temperatures so low as to need cold end covered by 10w40 ? Else do consider that a 10w40 is a fast degrading oil ( unless it's a full synthetic oil ) . This is because it takes a big load of additives for a mineral oil to reach the 10-to-40 multigrade range . So firstly it has less oil in it per liter . Secondly the addtives degrade real fast in motorcycle use ( shear in the gearbox , higher op temps and high rev stress ) . In a 1000km of use a mineral oil based 10w40 shall become like a near 10w20 . The aim in selecting your oil grade is to get the smallest range oil that covers the range ( highest to lowest ) of ambient temperatures you are likely to encounter in your riding .

[sinnerz2000]

Re: Engine Oils

Do your riding encounter temperatures so low as to need cold end covered by 10w40 ? Else do consider that a 10w40 is a fast degrading oil ( unless it's a full synthetic oil ) . This is because it takes a big load of additives for a mineral oil to reach the 10-to-40 multigrade range . So firstly it has less oil in it per liter . Secondly the addtives degrade real fast in motorcycle use ( shear in the gearbox , higher op temps and high rev stress ) . In a 1000km of use a mineral oil based 10w40 shall become like a near 10w20 . The aim in selecting your oil grade is to get the smallest range oil that covers the range ( highest to lowest ) of ambient temperatures you are likely to encounter in your riding .

So I should stick to 20w40? Is 10w40 faster degrading than 10w30?

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[pixantz]

Re: Engine Oils

do consider that a 10w40 is a fast degrading oil ( unless it's a full synthetic oil ) . In a 1000km of use a mineral oil based 10w40 shall become like a near 10w20 .

Hey Pinaki, you're sounding scary here. I'm using an SS 10W40 oil. Never came across a 10W40 mineral btw. Done 2K kms so far. It's working like a charm, by the way I 've not done much ripping on it. It's doing pretty good as of now... Whats your take on an SS 10W40 then...

P. S. - given that many manufacturers have 10W30 as recommended grade, W40 is better still


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[petrolhead_chn]

Re: Engine Oils

I guess the oil grade recommendation is directly dependent on the power generated by the engine or technically (bore x stroke). For higher powered engines (150cc and above) the heat generated would be more and less for underpowered engines (Splendor and likewise). So the oil should be capable enough to maintain the temperature of internal moving parts from wear and tear. This could also be another reason for different oil grades for different kind of bikes. It is always adviced to stick to manufacturer's recommendation of engine oil grade.