I am mentioning this because I used 20w40 oil in CBZ Xtreme and the engine became smoother than with 10w30. Also I couldn't observe any noticeable difference in revving of the engine. But when I switched back to 10w30 I felt tremendous improvement in revving and acceleration.................
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If you use thicker oil you will always get smooth and soundless feeling. Do you find any change in acceleration and also revving of engine after using thicker oil? If there is no change then continue using the oil happily.Originally posted by bobysaxena View Post
I am mentioning this because I used 20w40 oil in CBZ Xtreme and the engine became smoother than with 10w30. Also I couldn't observe any noticeable difference in revving of the engine. But when I switched back to 10w30 I felt tremendous improvement in revving and acceleration.................
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Muching enough miles .. in this context .. i.e for the internal clearances and bearings to get so loose would take atleast 50000 kms of riding . So you can continue with mineral oil until thenOriginally posted by anindyameister View PostOsonkho Dhonnobad. ....
anindyo .. i should have suspected you are bengali
Shubho bijoya to you too .
I want to avoid this exact scenario, cause lets say after munching enough miles, I put in synth oil, and after sometime it starts leaking. Then I can't even do anything other than switching back to mineral and dream about how smooth the engine could have been if I ran with synthetic. I want to prepare for this, and I think that if I switch to double ester full synth oil a little earlier ( Let's say 5000 Kms) the engine parts wont get fully polished and clearence will not be as much to let the oil leak. Then gradually the engine will be shaped with respect to the new oil properties. The keys of my strategy are 1. Changeover to synthetic at the exact moment when the engine is not too loose, not too tight and 2. Choosing the best synthetic oil out there, as this oil will shape the engine for the rest of its lifetime. Please pardon me if I am being a bit too paranoid. This is my first bike and I want to keep her running for as long as I can. I saw my dad's first model tvs victor become absolute junk within 10 year. I don't want the same thing to happen to my birdy.
. 10 years of daily riding is about the time any indian made motorcycle would either need major overhaul or be junked . The government defines 15 years as "lifetime" of a any vehicle , motorcycles included , which is reflected by the validity of the "lifetime-tax" they levy on it .
All I can say that it is a good oil for the UCE bullet engine .. this is something I have confirmed from current bulleteers who is using this very oil . Ofcourse , they say that the 15w50 motul 300v is smoother when ridden hardOriginally posted by anindyameister View PostCan you please provide your feedback on Motul 3000 4T Plus ? It comes as recommended lube for the enfields and I want to switch to this oil. Did you find any advantages over other mineral oils ?
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Have you also considered the cost involved in using fully synthetic 300v in an engine that takes 2.5 liters for a change and kept in mind that you have to drain the oil and refill every six months too , mineral ho yah synth .. regardless of kilometers ? This is even without considering the regular top-ups you'd need since synthetic oil vanishes often from the sump .
Don't even dream trying this on a new engine .Originally posted by anindyameister View PostGuys I keep seeing posts on different threads about how adding a few grams of boric powder to engine oil increases the engine smoothness. Generally some users say that it has done wonders to their vehicle and we see jargon like "nano particles of boron, which is also the key component of boron carbide smoothens out the irregularities in the engine part surface" whereas others advise to stay away from this treatment. So as an average enthusiast biker, I want to know what is the real deal here. Has the truth really been in front of our blind eyes that the addition of minute quantities of dirt cheap boric acid into the engine oil can give our engine magical lubricating properties,( which obviously the oil companies don't know of ) or the entire thing is a hoax and people who went ahead with the treatment are just suffering from placebo effect ??
Last edited by Pinaki; 10-12-2011, 11:53 PM.
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I thank you again for showing the way to my newbie biker mind. So for now I will change over to Motul 3000 4T Plus as soon as my second service happens. I will stick with 3000 4T Plus at least until the four free services are exhausted. ( I think with my riding pattern, I would cross 5000 Kms by then ) then I'll think about changing to 300V keeping in mind the cost and of course the condition of the engine. I don't trust any of the RE service centers here in Hyderabad. I suspect if I go to them with a can of my preferred lube and move to my office after telling them to use the lube I gave them, they might switch the oil with a bad quality one. So I am thinking I will go down and dirty and change the oil filter and oil myself just before servicing. Although there are instructions available on the web including videos on how to do this, my biggest fear is what if I damage the engine because of being ignorant...........Originally posted by Pinaki View PostMuching enough miles .. in this context .. i.e for the internal clearances and bearings to get so loose would take atleast 50000 kms of riding . So you can continue with mineral oil until then
. 10 years of daily riding is about the time any indian made motorcycle would either need major overhaul or be junked . The government defines 15 years as "lifetime" of a any vehicle , motorcycles included , which is reflected by the validity of the "lifetime-tax" they levy on it .
All I can say that it is a good oil for the UCE bullet engine .. this is something I have confirmed from current bulleteers who is using this very oil . Ofcourse , they say that the 15w50 motul 300v is smoother when ridden hard
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Have you also considered the cost involved in using fully synthetic 300v in an engine that takes 2.5 liters for a change and kept in mind that you have to drain the oil and refill every six months too , mineral ho yah synth .. regardless of kilometers ? This is even without considering the regular top-ups you'd need since synthetic oil vanishes often from the sump .
Don't even dream trying this on a new engine .
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Good decision to stick to recomended grade mineral oil .Originally posted by anindyameister View Post.... I suspect if I go to them with a can of my preferred lube and move to my office after telling them to use the lube I gave them, they might switch the oil with a bad quality one. So I am thinking I will go down and dirty and change the oil filter and oil myself just before servicing. Although there are instructions available on the web including videos on how to do this, my biggest fear is what if I damage the engine because of being ignorant...........
No don't change the oil/filter before service .. they'll just probably just change it again and say it is part of regular-service package etc bunkum . Tell them to skip it untill all other servicing is done .. then produce your own oil and ask them to change it in front of you .
Yes , it may be fairly daunting at first .. given the complexity of oil change/filter change/oil-gaskets on the UCE bullet .. carefully observe them do it .. when you are there .. even if on someone Else's bike . Sooner or later , you'll need to learn do an oil-change on your bike yourself .. it is almost compulsory for riding the long empty roads that is the natural domain of bulleteers
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As sooner or later I have to learn how to do it, I want to learn how to do everything with my bull, and oil change is the most basic maintenance activity. Thats why I was thinking about DIY. I found a video which describes the steps to change the oil graphically.Originally posted by Pinaki View PostGood decision to stick to recomended grade mineral oil .
No don't change the oil/filter before service .. they'll just probably just change it again and say it is part of regular-service package etc bunkum . Tell them to skip it untill all other servicing is done .. then produce your own oil and ask them to change it in front of you .
Yes , it may be fairly daunting at first .. given the complexity of oil change/filter change/oil-gaskets on the UCE bullet .. carefully observe them do it .. when you are there .. even if on someone Else's bike . Sooner or later , you'll need to learn do an oil-change on your bike yourself .. it is almost compulsory for riding the long empty roads that is the natural domain of bulleteers
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Oil Change in UCE EFI Royal Enfield G5 Motorcycle - YouTube
Can you please provide your feedback if I proceed according to this video, will it be ok or not ??
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Yes .. this is the correct procedure .
I prefer to drain old oil when the engine is quite hot .. because hot well-agitated oil flows best & carries away the maximum amount of the dirt from inside . Dunno if there is a specific problem in doing so on the UCE bullet . Please confirm with other bullet owners . However I have to be careful about the scalding hot oil that pours out quickly
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Take care to wipe the two magnets well , so as to remove the sticking metal particles . i) on the drain plug ii) on the oil-screen .
Does the rubber o-ring gaskets needs change every-time with the oil , or after a few reuses ? confirm from your owner's manual .
Lacking a torque-wrench , be careful not to over-torque the oil-plug , screen-plug & filter-cover etc when refitting (screwing ) them back in .Last edited by Pinaki; 10-13-2011, 04:15 AM.
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Thanks a lot. The manual does not say anything about the o-ring and gaskets, I think If the o-rings are not worn or too loose, they can be reused. The gasket I think should be a new one. So the next time I need to change oil, I will do it myself. The person in this video uses Motul 5100 oil. Thats a semi synth oil. Can I use that oil or better to stick to mineral for the running in period ?Originally posted by Pinaki View PostYes .. this is the correct procedure .
I prefer to drain old oil when the engine is quite hot .. because hot well-agitated oil flows best & carries away the maximum amount of the dirt from inside . Dunno if there is a specific problem in doing so on the UCE bullet . Please confirm with other bullet owners . However I have to be careful about the scalding hot oil that pours out quickly
.
Take care to wipe the two magnets well , so as to remove the sticking metal particles . i) on the drain plug ii) on the oil-screen .
Does the rubber o-ring gaskets needs change every-time with the oil , or after a few reuses ? confirm from your owner's manual .
Lacking a torque-wrench , be careful not to over-torque the oil-plug , screen-plug & filter-cover etc when refitting (screwing ) them back in .
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^^ stick to mineral oil for run-in period. And also try to stick to the recommended grade, though lighter oil (xxW40) can be used for winters (max temp below 30'C) if ridden for short distances.
My suggestion; use motul 3000 4t plus 15w50.Last edited by Honda_CBF; 10-13-2011, 10:59 PM.
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I humbly concurOriginally posted by Honda_CBF View Post^^ stick to mineral oil for run-in period. And also try to stick to the recommended grade, though lighter oil (xxW40) can be used for winters (max temp below 30'C) if ridden for short distances.
My suggestion; use motul 3000 4t plus 15w50.
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Someone pls reply fast, i urgently need motul 3000 20w40 for my uni i've given it for the first service after buying it used a month ago. So i want to drain the old oil completely and use the new one. But the uni takes 1.2L of oil so does motul have 1.2l pack? And if yes pls give me the dealers number, im from Bangalore Frazer town area.
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No, motul 3000 4t plus 20w40 comes in 1 lit bottle . Rarely found in 900ml bottles too , as was reported here . I do not know of ANY oil that comes in 1.2 lit size . So you have to buy two bottles and keep the rest for the next change .Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostSomeone pls reply fast, i urgently need motul 3000 20w40 for my uni i've given it for the first service after buying it used a month ago. So i want to drain the old oil completely and use the new one. But the uni takes 1.2L of oil so does motul have 1.2l pack? And if yes pls give me the dealers number, im from Bangalore Frazer town area.
Any respectable motor-oil shop should have the motul or gulf , and 20w40 is the most commonly sold grade of motor oil in India overall ... just look around for it a bit . Other bangalore-ians kindly help ...
Edit - ok , just found this for you a few pages earlier ..
JC Road
Motul cherry agencies
Cherry Agencies Pvt Ltd
Mr Vijay Kumar, Mr Santosh
+918066490948, 08026676876, 08026676379, 41114243, 41226803
+(91)-9972577134, 9972577144Last edited by Pinaki; 10-15-2011, 03:56 PM.
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uni takes 1150ml IF the crank case/clutch case is opened. If the oil is drained via drain bolt then 1 liter pack is enough..Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View PostSomeone pls reply fast, i urgently need motul 3000 20w40 for my uni i've given it for the first service after buying it used a month ago. So i want to drain the old oil completely and use the new one. But the uni takes 1.2L of oil so does motul have 1.2l pack? And if yes pls give me the dealers number, im from Bangalore Frazer town area.
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