Thumping Experiment

A friend of mine, RE owner, is trying out this experiment on his bull. It's more than 55k kms old & burns engine oil.
I'll keep you updated on this..

Bull was ridden for some 70kms.
Can't say about smoothness but it's throttle response is slightly improved.
But the tic tic tic sound from the engine has started..
What's that sound? Is it because of boric acid or something else?

Back after a long time...
Had tried it on my current ride - P220, with, in my opinion, very good results.
Rode for about 6000 kms on one change of engine oil - which was when I added the boric. Changed the oil (there was still some life left in it) and then went on a 3000+ kms trip to Kerala and back at triple digit speeds. No issues.
Since it was more than 15000 kms since my last service, got my engine flushed.
Will be repeating the treatment at the next oil change.

Didn't find much difference in the mileage though the oil seemed to last longer and the bike rode smoother. The bike is now 1 year and 28500 kms old.

broken centrifuge bolt

Hi guys, I have been using boric acid in gearbox of my 220 since over a year now. Opened up the gearbox yesterday during usual servicing and saw a centimeter thick layer of boric powder sludge in centrifugal pump and a broken centrifuge bolt. performance with borick acid is good but it doesn't really gets dissolved in engine oil and gets deposit on centrifugal pump walls and definitely not healthy for engine over a long period. A possible solution for the deposit problem could be regular cleaning of the crank case intervals but then again we cannot be certain of the oil cooler radiator internals.

If smoothness is what we are looking for, then a nice synthetic oil is better choice anyday .

where did you buy the boric acid from and over the year how much did you use in Gms.,and how often ?

bought it from chemist shop .. quantity was never more than 5-10 gms, frequency not more than 4 times over the year .

The recommended quantity is 20 Gms ONE TIME ONLY...still finding it either at the bottom of the crankcase or in the centrifugal filter is not a good sign...The Boric acid used may be adulterated with common chalk powder..
I had experimented in my KB100, Karizma, Lancer ,and friend's Toyota Innova,Qualis,Tata Indica,Toyota Corolla,Honda City,Hyundai Santro Xing etc.. without any issue,so far..and the time period is more than 2 years in case of all vehicles except ZMA which is 4 months.

Hmmm ... could be adulterated stock. Used to get it in yellow match box size box . Externally I could not see any issues with the performance of my bike. However the internals of crank case were clean except for the deposit on centrifugal pump.
What brand boric-acid and acetone do you use ? I want to give it a try once again

Treatement for My Fi220

My p220 FI has done 40K kms and 4Years old ,

What Is the Recommend Amount Should Be added to it ?
since i usually use 1.4L of Oil change at Regular Servicing !
Motul 3000T 15W50,

Can anybody please Specify the Name of the Compounds Added and
Simple / Short Tip how to use it ?

i read The complete Thread , but still confused How to use it,

I think the deposit could also be because you may not have driven the bike for 50 Kms after adding the Boric Acid mix..anyhow the way to do it is to use new oil and mix 20 Gms in 40ml of Castrol 2T and add to the engine oil and immediately drive for 50 Kms.I am posting a Picture of both the Boric Acid I use and the 2 T oil...I always buy 10Gms Boric Acid packet as I found it to be good quality and sealed ..


The amount to be used is 20 Gms of Pharmacy grade Boric Acid mixed in 40ml of Castrol 2T oil and added to fresh engine oil.After adding to engine oil you have to drive for at least 50 Kms to enable the mix to mix well and start working..A pic of both additives is given above for reference.

Thumper update

We got its tappets adjusted. All's fine now, no tick tick, no sound.

Great sir , This is what i was looking for !

ip grade boric acid is not the purest,instead of this i use industry grade.it is bit costly.my bike does not have oil filter so i put it directly into the engine oil chamber.

psr sir, i did this treatment to my CBZ Classic 2 weeks ago in the exact way as u mentioned earlier. This was done along with a general service from a trusted mech.

I noticed smoothness in gear shift right away n i drove the bike for around 35kms.

After riding the day i noticed jerks in the bike as if i was running out of gas. I checked the fuel and found no issues with it. The bike would not go beyong 60kmph mark and the hiccups would compound. Due to tight work schedule i was not able to take the bike to mech n was driving sedately.

Today i faced a serious trouble. I drove the bike for 5kms and stopped at petrol bunk to refill. After this the bike did not start even with choke for some 20 cranks.

Finally when it did start it was dieing on me. I had to open the throttle fully to keep the motor running. Even putting the choke on did not help. Now the bike would not cross 15kmph in any gear and i had to drive the rest 5kms to office in 2nd gear.

Pls help in trouble shooting the issue. What are the signs of an engine seasure? :-(

Note: I was aware of the consequences of this treatment n take full resposiblility here.

What is Km on ODO..did you add Boric Acid in to petrol or engine oil...was the engine oil new when you did it, and did you drive for 50 Kms non stop ,soon as you added the mix ? Please check engine oil level...
what you report seem like poor petrol flow ..can trouble shoot when you give reply to each of my query .