Reasons clearly mentioned in the post itself bro ... Anyways its not welded to the bike so it can be removed if not required

That is such a useless post....
The saree guard is a mandate on all bikes in India (especially on those which are catered to the masses)

Not everyone buy the bike for 'looks' like you do...

the foot rest on saree guard would have prevented my shoes getting stuck between road and small slide along

my wish list on new 220 would be as below (not asking for revolutionary changes that would transform it into a different model altogether)

DASH/ELECTRICALS
- re-design or get rid of the "rain indicator" warning sign on dash (actually meant to indicate oil cooling related issue?). few kms in drizzle and the sign starts flashing for no reason. hopefully it doesnt mean that during rains the radiator is not cooling oil and running on high temp
- horn that doesnt need constant adjustment
- it would be good if they do not use fairing for routing electricals
- though you give a powerful 9A battery, give 12A if it doesnt involve too much of money.

FAIRING
- better RVMs (one inch longer and slightly thicker stem)
- easy to remove fairing (ASS guys made me feel that taking the fairing off is complex than disassembling cylinder head)
- easy to access bulb holders ( i havent ran out of life on high beam but was told that fairing needs to be removed completely to change that. and that its a activity that needs 4-5 hours!)
- the fairing comes in way while using most knee guards. it can be more blended into tank (that would also mean getting rid of generation old tank as bonus)

HANDLING/FRAME
- better rear brakes, atleast a way to adjust pedal play (a set of nut and threads to achieve that maybe)
- more rubber on gear shifter (we coudlnt get butter smooth gearbox yet, atleast give a shifter that doesnt damage oxfoards and lee coopers and woodlands and batas )
- reworked main stand

SERVICE/general PROBIKING
- service engineers who can identify between a commuter and rider and talk accordingly
- more service centers to avoid week long appointment waiting and then one wasteful day to get oil changed and chain cleaned, just to keep warranty alive
entire probiking difference ends the moment you buy and head for first service. change that!
- higher service interval
- detailed manual, current manual doesnt even tell how to adjust beams, and by default the beams point to north star (indicating no QC in that matter). the pages dedicated to periodic replacement chart can be ommitted though. havent seen it being followed :P

finally, bring the kick starter back!

are you aware of the fact that r15 comes with 3.5amp and even the new cbr250r comes with a 5amp? And why do you feel 9amp isn't enough? I mean, we are capable of running 55w halogens or even a twin beam 35w hid. What do you exactly plan to do with a 12amp battery dude?

what do you mean by bring the kick starter back? it was never there in the 220...
and why do you want the kick starter? forget the aesthetics, are you aware of the compression ratio of pulsar 220? You might find a situation where your bike is on main stand and you're standing on the kicker yet its not going down. and imagine a broken leg if there's a kick back by the engine.

Then what about karizma R?

223cc, 17bhp and ours is 220cc, 21bhp... guess it's enough to state which has higher compression...

yes, and I pity the riders for being tied up with such tiny battery

an HID ballast has inrush current of more than 7-8 amps. flicker it on off regularly and be sure to have a dead battery sooner. getting it replaced under warranty is good but meanwhile, you are stuck.


is the compression ratio that high that you cant kick start it? it was in pulsar family till 180. and now even they removed from 180. it might save costs but its handy (feety? ) when you have dead battery for any reason.

please end this debate regarding kick start thing.

as we go higher in terms of CC and compression ratio, it becomes difficult to kick start engines, that is why bigger engines don't have kick start.

that said, it won't be entirely impossible to kick start a P220 engine, there's a technique involved. my father had an italian lambretta with the kick so tight that as he said, even if you stand on it, it will move only by 2 inches or so, but with proper technique we never had any problem with it, though my friends were never able to kick start it.

so, although it can be started by kick, it is not advisable.

yes the compression indeed is very high buddy. try that it comes handy but honestly have never heard anyone having problem either. Hid ballasts do consume that high but only when it starts and that would be about 8-15 seconds. When your bike is on, there is sufficient charging to put a balance between the outflow and inflow of current. It's not mandatory that if i have a 12amp battery, i won't have battery over drain. It's the charging unit that matters and what we have in 220 is good enough. Even r15 with 3.5amp batteries support hid well. If we go by your concept, then hids would never have started only in r15s.

performance

hi guys does anyone know where can i get performance lever for pulsar220

1. Firstly, a Stiffer chassis, the current one has a lot of chassis flex.
2. Second, a better suspension setup (Although, switching rear to 3rd setting works well).
3. More progressive brakes which seems to have been improved with the Bybre brakes but scope of improvement is still there. Lesser weight should solve this problem.
4. Vibrations!
5. Gearing. It feels out of place with tall gearing. A 6th cog would have sufficed.
6. Riding position. Saddle needs to be at least 3 inch lower.
7. Dip stick. Yes a window does the job. But how does one check the condition of oil...
8. Balance. The bike is front heavy. Again, lesser weight should solve the problem.

pulsar lacks

d only thing pulsar lacks is the quality of shock absorbers.... im nt sure about the 220 bt ufcorz in 150 n 180 der is very poor suspensions.... d quality of the suspensions is d onli reason dat the frond vizor goes off screw n starts shaking.....