@rahul
have u figured out 8K RPM problem on which u have also started thread is it resolved??

i know it is offtopic but i m curious

@ abhijeet080808, rahuldevnath & sajanjosepht

somehow forgot about this mod.
Thanks a lot for spending your time on the friendly valuable discussion.

Finally this is the conclusion.
The P220's alternator is a 3-phase one. It is having a big coil (over 200W) . It can easily feed my 2 55W halogens & other electricals.
If incase the coil DOESNT produce the required power we need to rewind. The RR MAY need replacement incase it fails to feed.
The same 9Ah battery can be used without the need to go for a 14Ah battery. Only the charging rate has to be increased which can be done by swapping the RR (if required).
As rahuldevnath mentioned are there any chances of BCU going kaput. Its expensive.
I need to buy a car relay which supports over 100W power.
If my RR fails what RR can i use? Bull's RR on the same 9Ah battery? Or the 14Ah battery is a must for Bull's RR?

Since i wont be using this setup much, is experimenting fine on test basis? I know about the risks involved.

AFAIK, Bull's RR unit is not a 3 phase design. So can not use that. I guess ZMA uses 3 phase design. And, no need to change battery.

Else rewind ur coil to single phase and use APE RR unit.

Put my puny brain to work today to understand the circuit. It was damn simple and i was thinking it to be some rocket science . Much simpler than my brain teasing electronic circuits.
My doubt is what part of the diagram shows the bulbs, top or bottom?
Right now my fairing isnt there. So i can do it immediately. Just need a Car Relay for testing it.
Can i directly cut the wires from outside and do it? Sorry i might sound quite noobish, but the fact is iam .
Since the wires are directly outside, will cutting them would be fine?

PS- My battery has a weird problem. The speedo console when it was there used to show low battery indication within 3 seconds of switching on the lights. Now without the console the lights get off pretty soon. But when i got it checked at a few battery dealers they say that the battery is fine. The Multimeter shows 12 or 13V (forgot the figures ). While revving hard (till 8k) the voltage level went till 14.9V. Is it a problem with BCU or RR or battery? The dealer says my battery isnt holding the charge but at the same time not getting low or discharging totally. PLEASE HELP .

Yes, my AFR was too rich, hence the bike did reach good speeds but didn't rev freely.


- The top part is the Bulb, or precisely the the HID kit's terminals.
- Don't cut any wires, just poke them in the bulb socket of the bike. The diagram is reference. Where you see the wires joining the socket, you can tap them to the socket itself rather than any cutting.
- Your dealer says that battery is not holding charge, that means the battery has gone kaput. It may not fully discharge and even crank but won't take the load of the light.

But say, if you are constantly running at more than 2-3K RPM, and your light still goes off, it could be a problem with the RR unit.

Thanks. Will do it soon (in a day or two ) and post the results.
I again have a doubt .
1. U said simply poke the wires. But when u take Low Beams +ve, there is relay's A & B in between. So shall i use an extra wire? Put the original wire to the relay B (NC) and a new wire from A to bulb (or socket or whatever) ?
2. If u have a look at high beams, there are two wires which go the relay's C (NO) & E (via a toggle switch). Can i put these two wires directly at the sockets or bulbs (High Beam +ve in this case) ? Also after connecting these wires are the +ve & -ve shorted or the wires to the relay are crossing the -ve terminal wire?
3. A toggle switch is not a must right? It is only to go back to the stock setup if desired? I dont like any extra fitments like switches .

Coming to battery. The lights dont go off when the bike is switched on. They get off when bike is off and lights are turned on. But the problem is they are switching off soon (hardly 3 seconds). Previously they used to last over 7 seconds. They brighten up marginally when revved over 2.5k rpm. I think it should be a battery problem as i constantly run for long distances on high rpms (8k+) without lights and still the battery is not getting charged. The dealer said it should be a problem with battery's gravity . What i dont understand is why isnt the battery getting totally discharged.

(1) Make use of extra wire. From relay point A, take to the low beam's +ve, of HID, and from pint B of the Relay take to the low beam socket of the bulb, and poke it, don't cut an join!

(2) Yes, you can put the wires together, they are common, and +ve is going over the -ve, not joining it, only where you find ".", means the wires is joined.

(3) A Toggele switch is not must be highly recommended. The switch can be, wrapped in insulation tape, and tucked near below the fairing where's it's not visible. Consider this, you are on the highway, and you cannot use both the beams and need to use the high beam alone, you can at least revert back to single beam.

Don't worry about the battery. The BCU senses the threshold of Amperage of battery, and thus switches off the bulbs so as to save battery power. In rare case the BCU itself could be at fault. Understand that' the battery is not actually discharge enough to switch off the bulb.

Even i thought the same. But in my electronics crossing wires are shown with a inverted U or a hump kind of symbol. Although the . is used where wires are joined.

Having the switch sounds sensible to me. I would use the switch and stick it to the relay or headlight unit.

But what if the BCU goes kaput all of a sudden?

This one is quite complicated.
Aren't the low beam +ve of HID (halogen in my case) and low beam socket of the bulb same?
1. Lets consider they are same. Now if i take a wire from relay point A to low beam bulb +ve and poke there & i take another wire from relay point B and again poke it to the same low beam bulb +ve will the circuit remain same as shown in the daiagram? If we do like this the circuit will change. I am attaching a modified pic which i think will be the case then. Sorry i maybe wrong. Please correct me if iam wrong. Iam also attaching a pic of the bulb sockets.
2. If they are not same. Maybe i dint understand anything afterall.

Yes, generally crossing over is denoted by "U", but didn't do it out of laziness!

If BCU goes Kaput, then it goes Kaput, and God know what else will go Kaput with it!

1. No they aren't. When I talk about +ve HID/Halogen is the wire going to towards the HID's +ve, in case of Halogen it's the Bulbs pins.. hope you get it, and +ve of socket is from the bulb socket. In HID there would be separate +ve and -Ve pins, unlike where the pins are on the bulb itself. So, in case you have to attach extra wire to the bulb and socket. So a wire from the bulb will got to socket and the other wire will go to relay.

The modification in the pic, will not work. The relay has been put so that there's no reverse current to the socket of low beam.

2. Do'nt worry, the best thing would be to get the relay. And the relay has to be Single Pole Double Throw, see the picture and description on first post. Now, mark the Relay point as shown here, and solder wires to it, and then I can take it from there.

The thing is i dont understand what the socket is here. I was able to pluck that greyish kinda thing. After that i saw bulbs terminals pointing outside.
Soon i will get the relay and solder 5 different color wires of 10 cm each to it.
I will make sure to get 1P2T relay. I understand why this is required. After that u can guide me further.

That Greyish Kinda this is the "Socket" or Call it Holder if you like it. So in that grey thing instead of the Bulb's pin you poke extra wires.

Went searching for relay all over Hyderabad. It seems like people of Hyd seriously lack technical knowledge. When asked for a relay at any automobile shop, they ask for which bike. When i said its for a headlight mod and give me a relay which has 5 terminals they started showing me CDI's and RR's . Is there any layman term for a SPDT Relay so that i can get it easily? In car accessory shops they have relays with 6 terminals. They themselves dont know which type of relay is that. All they say is its a cutout relay for the headlight.
PS- A few guys showed me some relay. It is used in P150 and P180's itseems. It had 5 terminals but nothing was written on it except for the manufacturer name. It was quite small in size and did not have any labelling for the terminals.
I was advised to go to electronic shops by some shopkeeper. To my surprise even the guys at electronic shops dont know a bit about the specifications of the things which they are selling. I took a diode and wanted to know its breakdown voltage. That guy from a pretty big and famous electronic shop put a blank face and said we dont know all this. Tell me diode number and i will give it to u. After some searching i found a relay for 50rs. Iam attaching the pics. The Relay type is MCC-1. Contact is 15A/250V. Coil is 12V DC/150 ohms. This is what is written on it. Dont know if its the correct one or not.

I think this is a SPDT relay! And it is the same with shopkeepers everywhere! Now, find out the terminals! The rightmost 2 wires are for the relay coil, the leftmost 3 are the relay contacts - the bottom one is the single pole (SP) part, the top 2 are the double throw (DT) part. Atleast I guess so!

He He...

Ok that's an SPDT Relay, but is prone to moisture and dust.
I guess the Terminals would be
(1) Extreme right 2 parallel ones are the closed and open points, and in than the right most one has to be (NC) Normally Closed and the left one is Normally open.

(2) The Middle row, where there's a single terminal, is the Common

(3) Extreme Left, in Tandem configurations are the Coil's terminals!

BTW, if possible look out for Miniature Relay used directly on PCBs, almost all the relays will at least be SPDT, nothing less, and look out in Electronic shops only.

Something like this?

Rahul, sorry u might ve written earlier as well but can't dig into again

What if we short the low beam and hi beam wires with an extra wire connected by a switch. When we turn on that switch both Lo and HI will power up.

I know Pulsar has lot of gizmo's . The one which I told isn't it feasible for normal bikes without any gizmo's (BCU etc)