In that case, think about how the cars/autos etc operates? They are full DC. In any case, if the RR unit dies, you will get battery reserve for atleast an hour. If you do not overload the unit, battery will not die suddenly. You may want to connect a voltmeter to the battery for checking it regularly.

I would say connecting an Ammeter than a voltmeter to check this. I think Shreeni has done it before.

What about u man, no new mods? Am waiting

I am busy with a new CDI man. See here! I have done enough lighting mods. I am satisfied with 100/90 halo!

Oh God, its not my cup of tea man, full eng jargons and I just cant swallow a bit of it. Anyways, wish u Good Luck.

+1 to that, so only i didn't comment anything in that thread as everything was going above my head.

Well I need AC supply bcz I have 3 lights in Projector setup.
2 Low's and 1 High. If at all i wish to power up all 3 in 1 shot then i don't want to over load the Battery.

All 3 in 1 shot = 55 X 3 = 165w

If i put Low and Hi beam HID then i can have 1 halo in AC.

35w (HID) X 2 = 70w (DC) (When both lo and hi are ON)
55w (Halo) X 1 = 55w (AC)

Man u do the rewinding first, measure the out put afterthat, then we will discuss this in detail. Now ur stator is less than 100W, so make it morethan that, then we will do some calc on load distribution. Putting all these loads to batt will fry the lead box without even much charging rate yar.

U cant count an HID simply 35W, each switching it will squeeze a good amount of juice from ur batt at startup, say nearly 9A for a few secs and after stabilizing, 3.4A per bulb. And u want to use AC for lighiting too. So the stock setup will be advisable. Without proper charging how long u'll get the support? My stock RR was supplying 3.5A @3K and I used to get 45mins with HID. I think u'll also get the same hopefully. If this backup time enough for u, then everythings are fine, else its another complex DIY one. DId u measure the output of ur RR charging rate?

Why dont u post a diag?

Dude, if the stator itself does not produce above 165W, putting it on AC will dim the light. And putting it all on DC will give bright light, but will drain the battery. Better to make sure that the stator gives atleast 170W at around 3k rpm or above. I don't even think so it is possible. It will need loads of free space inside the stator to wind extra wires. If 170W comes up, putting it all on DC will not drain the battery. So, AC or DC is not your problem, producing the required power is. Anyways, unlike other bikes, Uni stator has a single coil and the RR unit divides it into AC or DC.

First get a old stator, rewind it and see how much it produces. BTW, car batteries are routinely are connected to 100A alternators. So, that is not a problem at all. 170W is around 15A only.

So, you know now what to do!

Yes, I've heard many cases with other bikes but very rare with Uni's rewinding. So do that first Shreeni as we dont know the total output of ur stator after rewinding. Then only other things can sort out. I agree with Abhi in space left in ur coil, somebody told me the same before.

Abhi, how will u split it into AC and DC from this with stock RR?

The RR unit consists of regulator + rectifier. The o/p from the regulator is AC. And that from the rectifier is DC. It is messy. For instance if you load down the AC part using a 100/90W bulb, the battery will not get current, since both uses the same stator coil.

good goin mate..

Abhi that part is very clear for me atleast when I assembled ur RR design. My point is refered in ur second statement. Since Uni's got only one coil, and Shreeni wants to load up all of his lights to a single coil output, the batt will be getting only a peanut share. It can not be splited precisely to batt and other loads I think. How that can be tackled without compromising the loads? I think its almost impossible with lower power coil and a mean 9AH batt. Another idea is he can use the whole lights for pass, other times, he has to sacrifice something.

Another option is, try the AC+DC setup when rewinding, it has got some benfit evenif u r over loading , batt charging rate will be untouched, but there too, u wont get much backup from batt. But its better not make it too complex, convert it to full DC, use a high cap rr, use the lights judiciously. Having 3 laser guns with u, Dont beee so Greedy man

Using all the coils to the DC, will contribute more charging rate after rewinding. I am using my light coils for charging and the batt coil is idle, if I use that also, I may able to pump another 3.5A from that too. Considering these, I think there is still hope for u. I dont think that Unis stock coil is not that weak and its almost as same as Pulsar in intensity.

Why dont u make a close observation of the stock coil to get an idea about the space availability and the feasibility scopes.

Ask any Uni forums for the rewinding issues?

Being Greedy, YES I AM bcz on Highways specially those truckies

Well actually i am planning not to rewind the coil and keep it in stock. I have a different plan now, wont be putting Unicorn Cowl, thought to give a different look but again now time constraint

Moreover planning to ride Bullet from next week so not experimenting more on Uni as I don't want any kind of risk when Dad is riding it.

Can any one help me source a 6v H3 HID for my Bullet ??
Is it available??

Very sad to hear that u droped the mods. U reallt dumped us

Shree, HID starts from 12V, eiter u convert it to 12V or forget the HID idea. I dont think a light maniac wont stick to a mean 6v lighting for long

I haven't dropped the idea of the mod nor dumped u anywhere . I just said I wont put Unicorn Cowl, rather planning to give a different looks. But now thinking something different again, where I will end up, even I am not sure
Its just matter of time

hey bro m tryng 2 install ths 4 dio. . . .will yo help me?