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Basic of Projectors, HID and their Installation

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  • drvmtm
    replied
    i have changed my pulsar ug 2 s headlight unit to classic unit.it is the BEST MOD i have done till date.

    i used the full front unit of tvs fiero fx fiem clear lance reflector with a bixenon 4300k hid.the light throw and output seems to increase as the focus and throw of the light is too good.ITS NOWHERE COMPARABLE TO THE OLD UG 3 S REFLECTOR I WAS USING.

    as of any mods i faced some problem and thinking of to get around them.first one is where to place the ballast properly.
    second one is the place of wires are very less because the bixenon takes so much of space so have to place the headlight dome a little bit front.
    i will update with pictures as soon a s possible.

    Leave a comment:

  • kauria
    replied
    Sajjat & drvmtm:

    The RR cost me Rs.850.00 approx, it is for the P220F with higher power output, the RR for the 220S is Rs.736.00 with a bit less output, both has two different part no.

    Leave a comment:

  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by drvmtm View Post
    i say you get your hid kit changed under warranty.
    yes you can use any bulb color,ballast is same.
    also kaushik ,are you using pulsar 220 rr which is of 3 phase in two phase config from the coil of your rtr?
    please elaborate the connection from coil to the rr.
    also how much the rr costed?
    Drji, I guess any of the 3 input wires will do the job for a single phase coil. Being a sealed unit, there's nothing much left for a mod.

    This is a typical 3 phase RR unit diagram and its almost similar to 2 phase except one addnl coil + regulator+rectifier. If u remove these surely its a single phase and thats why I said we can use any of the 2 yellow lines.


    Kaushik, am I correct?

    P220 RR is costing around 900+ AFAIK as per my first market research has it come down?.

    Leave a comment:

  • drvmtm
    replied
    Originally posted by kauria View Post
    I think Lizok wants to mean the part of the bulb which moves when high beam is on, is kind of loose, it rattles when the bike in motion, and the light flickers.

    But in my case it is not the same, its kind of internal, like the bulb glow, it reaches its full potential, and then starts flickering, not that off on kind, but the light up down is very slight, but no bulb movement. What could be the cause?

    One more question.
    I have an 8000k bulb and the supplied ballast, the light has a slight blue tint, now AFAIK the bulb is only responsible for the colour of light, ballast has no role in making colour. If that so, can I use a 6000k bulb in my setup, which is kind of pure white, without any blue tint.

    Does my ballast support the same?
    i say you get your hid kit changed under warranty.
    yes you can use any bulb color,ballast is same.
    also kaushik ,are you using pulsar 220 rr which is of 3 phase in two phase config from the coil of your rtr?
    please elaborate the connection from coil to the rr.
    also how much the rr costed?

    Leave a comment:

  • princesirohi
    replied
    hey guys,

    I have a problem, the relay (Hi/Low relay) used in my HID installation is failing repeatedly. can anybody suggest a robust relay. i use my flash button quite frequently.

    Leave a comment:

  • lijok
    replied
    @Sajan - what kauria described is(was) my problem. I've done a tricky mod to eliminate it. Will test and then post if its advisable..

    BTW, there is no gap as shown in the pic in my glare shield..... hmm... another mod needed... cool..

    Leave a comment:

  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by kauria View Post
    I think Lizok wants to mean the part of the bulb which moves when high beam is on, is kind of loose, it rattles when the bike in motion, and the light flickers.

    But in my case it is not the same, its kind of internal, like the bulb glow, it reaches its full potential, and then starts flickering, not that off on kind, but the light up down is very slight, but no bulb movement. What could be the cause?

    One more question.
    I have an 8000k bulb and the supplied ballast, the light has a slight blue tint, now AFAIK the bulb is only responsible for the colour of light, ballast has no role in making colour. If that so, can I use a 6000k bulb in my setup, which is kind of pure white, without any blue tint.

    Does my ballast support the same?

    OH my bad, I've seen this before, its not flickering its just vibrating the capsule when the solenoid pulls it back. Its a quality parameter in telescopic H4 but unfortunately we cant make sure it unless and untill we fix it. And no one is ready to replace the same too.

    Correct, bulb is responsible for the colour. U can use the ballast for the same rated bulb.

    Leave a comment:

  • kauria
    replied
    I think Lizok wants to mean the part of the bulb which moves when high beam is on, is kind of loose, it rattles when the bike in motion, and the light flickers.

    But in my case it is not the same, its kind of internal, like the bulb glow, it reaches its full potential, and then starts flickering, not that off on kind, but the light up down is very slight, but no bulb movement. What could be the cause?

    One more question.
    I have an 8000k bulb and the supplied ballast, the light has a slight blue tint, now AFAIK the bulb is only responsible for the colour of light, ballast has no role in making colour. If that so, can I use a 6000k bulb in my setup, which is kind of pure white, without any blue tint.

    Does my ballast support the same?

    Leave a comment:

  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by lijok View Post
    did you check for any loose connections bro? Seems stupid, but that what happened to me yesterday after I disconnected the hid (to practise emergency switching to halo) and put it back. Problem was i could not test it after putting it back, and on my way back from office, it was flickering like hell...

    BTW, I see you also have the hid with the glare cap, and its the one that moves in and out right? What I see with mine is that there is a lot of gap in the moving mechanism and it tends to move down, affecting the spread on high beam... u have any such issues?

    Lijo, can u elaborate it bit more? I am Is the glare shield loose?

    In the glare shield there is a gap for high beam, normal low beam mode the glowing capsule will be covered by the shield and the light wont reach the bottom side of the reflector so no glares to the upper level. Once the solenoid pulls back the capsule to back wards the capsule will be positioned just above the gap in the shield and resulting high beam.




    So if u close this gap the high beam will be suffered.

    Or Am I got it wrong?

    Leave a comment:

  • lijok
    replied
    Originally posted by drvmtm View Post
    i also face the exact same problem.in low beam the bulb is stable but in high beam it worsons.the bulb vibrates like a jiggly teenager,it feels like the reflector is loose.
    you are correct,the play is more.i will open it and see if some thing can be done to reduce the free play.
    and oh ya,you are welcome.and just inform as u reach.

    looking forward to it.
    ah so, am not alone... glad to hear that...
    what I did as for the time being is, to put in a piece of aluminum foil between the space in which it moves.... though not sure if it can take the sustained heat of the HID...

    And sorry to say, if the rain do not let up, I may postpone the ride...

    Leave a comment:

  • drvmtm
    replied
    Originally posted by lijok View Post
    did you check for any loose connections bro? Seems stupid, but that what happened to me yesterday after I disconnected the hid (to practise emergency switching to halo) and put it back. Problem was i could not test it after putting it back, and on my way back from office, it was flickering like hell...

    BTW, I see you also have the hid with the glare cap, and its the one that moves in and out right? What I see with mine is that there is a lot of gap in the moving mechanism and it tends to move down, affecting the spread on high beam... u have any such issues?
    i also face the exact same problem.in low beam the bulb is stable but in high beam it worsons.the bulb vibrates like a jiggly teenager,it feels like the reflector is loose.
    you are correct,the play is more.i will open it and see if some thing can be done to reduce the free play.
    and oh ya,you are welcome.and just inform as u reach.

    looking forward to it.

    Leave a comment:

  • Rony
    replied
    Originally posted by Puneet1 View Post
    If your bike has dc lighting then a Hid conversion is a easy job and no battery issues . go ahead whats your budget for hid ?
    I am ready to spend up to 3k. So what all I need to do ?

    Leave a comment:

  • lijok
    replied
    Originally posted by kauria View Post
    Sajjat thanks; I will sure try to post the amp readings. BTW, can you tell me that, sometimes my HID lights flicker, not very much, its like the bulb is tossing, I thought it was due to power source, but it flickers with or without engine start, and I double checked the bulb, its not tossing,

    Somewhere I read it is due to bad ground. What say?
    did you check for any loose connections bro? Seems stupid, but that what happened to me yesterday after I disconnected the hid (to practise emergency switching to halo) and put it back. Problem was i could not test it after putting it back, and on my way back from office, it was flickering like hell...

    BTW, I see you also have the hid with the glare cap, and its the one that moves in and out right? What I see with mine is that there is a lot of gap in the moving mechanism and it tends to move down, affecting the spread on high beam... u have any such issues?

    Leave a comment:

  • kauria
    replied
    Sajjat thanks; I will sure try to post the amp readings. BTW, can you tell me that, sometimes my HID lights flicker, not very much, its like the bulb is tossing, I thought it was due to power source, but it flickers with or without engine start, and I double checked the bulb, its not tossing,

    Somewhere I read it is due to bad ground. What say?

    Leave a comment:

  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by kauria View Post
    Hi all,
    I already inform you that I have converted my RTR to full DC using a 3phase RR unit and without coil rewinding. Some of you asked me for the result in different RPM range. Here is that details for your ready reference, sorry for late reply as I was checking the setup for last 100Kms, now everything fine, so I can put the result here.

    Charger: P220 3phase RR.
    Magneto: Stock, but negative un-grounded.
    Battery: Amaron 9ah
    Battery Voltage: 14.50 v

    CHARGING AT DIFFERENT RPM WITHOUT HID





    CHARGING AT DIFFERENT RPM WITH HID ON





    Here are some pictures of my setup for your reference.
    Good work mate, would appreciate if u could post the current readings too as its the controlling factor in DC conversion.

    Leave a comment:

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