Hey Doc, hows the new place? GOod to see u here once again. Am sure that the Chennai guys's are now blessed with a good Lighting solutions specialist now.

@ Shree/Lijo, Check for the wiring to the RR and other connections for the low perfo. As its from the Doc, then it should be in floating from the coils.

@Lijo, dude, I forgot ur no. else I'd've call u by now. Why dont u call me when u drop in here?.

@ Nano, Am surprised to ur readings. I must check my readings once again. My MM is not giving amps and needs a replacement.

5AH Batt for HID will makes batt issues in City drives and b2b traffic, so its always safe to be with a 9AH. Cost is also marginal compared to 5A.

5A Amron is 900, 9A is 1200-1300 which is good?

Arrey oo Dr., you have to time to update ur status in orkut but no time to reply to scraps ??

BTW I was wondering seeing the coil of RTR which you sent to Lijok

His RTR is pumping 1.5amps @ peak rpm even after putting a rewinded coil with APE RR !! What can be wrong ?

But the charging voltage is 14.3v irrespective of HID on or off

nanooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo,,,,,,,
chk ur pm............

de-solder the point at which the wire is attached to the ground..
in simpler terms, float the ground, but the wire should be connected to the ape rr..
in even simpler terms..
a wire should go in, get re winded to all the poles AND COME OUT DIRECTLY WITHOUT ANY OTHER CONTACT to go in the ape rr..
these 2 ends of the re-winded wire will be directly connected to ape rr's grey wires..


@ doc..

good to see you after such a long time..
how is your new setup going on?

argee,if you are having problems with hid or charging system,i am ready to help,already in your city,loving every moment of it..........
realllly lookin foroward to meet your hyper baby rx..

i am pretty much sure that your coil is okay..
as the headlamp on stock rr is glowing almost 0.
but i am also sure that the floating ground is not done, hence all this problem.

de-solder the point where the copper wire which is newly winded is soldered to the ground, post the readings after doing that, it should rise above to 14.5v pretty quickly..[/QUOTE]

thanx nano.so i should desolder and just leave it?.

dude, your generator will be directly connected to the battery only,
your headlight will be connected to that battery later.
thus it makes it DC.
a 5 amp battery would do fine.
when your hid will be on, your load will be -4 amps.
as you revv, your 5 amp battery will get 7 amps of current..
4 amps to make the load 0 (which is -4 now) and 3 amps to charge the 5 amp battery..
got it?

i am pretty much sure that your coil is okay..
as the headlamp on stock rr is glowing almost 0.
but i am also sure that the floating ground is not done, hence all this problem.

de-solder the point where the copper wire which is newly winded is soldered to the ground, post the readings after doing that, it should rise above to 14.5v pretty quickly..

I use a Hunk i rewinded the coil and i used the APE rr.The readings where showing a constant 12.1 volts when connected to battery.somelater later my fuse blew out.what is the problem?
Now im running on stock regulator.The output from the regulator to the headlight was zero so i guess coil is rewinded correctly.am i right?

That makes things a lot X 10^ (infinite) times clear!!!

To summarize for a SINGLE HID setup
Generator output - 3 Amps for HID only & the rest SHOULD be directed to battery for charging
Load or initial current for HID - 4 Amps
Battery capacity - 5 Amps
Output from RR Unit - 4 Amps?
Consumption of HID - 3 Amps

Now, what is this term? You mean wiring to HID?

a 100w bulb would require 8 amps to glow in full intensity on DC, with relays..
relays are must to light up such a bulb..
yes we calculate with a multimeter...
i meant Piaggio's Ape 3 Wheeler's RR unit.
lets make things simple..
forget 100w bulbs, go for HID..
single Hid will need a 5 amp battery
dual Hid will require 9 amp battery..

You mean the auto APE or something else?

Again going back, if 55w halo required 4 amps, what about 100w halo? may be 6A? But from my understanding, even that is insufficient because the load current that is required is 8A. So once it is switched ON, the battery needs to be charged further for which a 4A output from the generator is required EXCLUSIVELY for the battery apart from tail lamps etc. So even in that case a 5A battery like Activa's is insufficient.

Do I hold good here on my understanding?

Yes, you're right.

How do you guys even measure it? Using Multimeter? Pls let me know. Tks.

@Nano - Thanks for your continued education on this. Appreciate it.

Thanks Need to get myself a pair.

yes dude..
my hid requires 4 amps when i switch it ON.
and it goes down to 2.9 amps when stabilized...
if i use both of them and switch them ON together, it requires 8.2 amps and after both of them are stabilized, the current goes down to 6.1 amps..
tried and tested.

one more thing i wanted to ask you, my hid when reaches the stabilized stage, it flickers a bit with red tinge for a second, and then i can see the brightest ever hid as long as its ON.
is it okay??
happens to both the HID's..

High beam takes more time to get stabilized, maybe because the bulb is comparatively newer, and its pulling 8 amps totally..
it takes 10 secs more for high beam to get stabilized.

see if you use ape rr, it will provide MAX 4 amps to the dead battery..
if your headlamp is on, it will provide 7 amps to the dead battery and so on...
if you get this, you are right !!!

Exactly...

halo takes slightly lesser amps 2.5 amps are enough to light up a 35w halo to full intensity..
when i was using a 55w halo, it required 4 amps..


one more thing..
see whenever we switch on our headlight, even the console and tail light turns on, so the current is using all these together..

@ sajit..
dude, i got these readlings after changing 9 console bulbs to led's..
each bulb required 2w previously.
on stock 4 of them are on with headlight, 3 of speedo + tacko + Fuel guage, and 1 green bulb of power or economy (in TVS bikes)

so after changing them i saved a bit, maybe that's why my readings are low...

This is again getting back to square one!!! Now I read the required battery to be 9 Amps & 4 Amps to be the output from generator - If I've understood the posts of Nano & Sajjt. Am I right or wrong?

This is putting me back to the hopeless pit. @Sajjt - I always had Rx in mind, but used Activa because it has a 5A battery & my Rx used to run in its battery for quite sometime. So if there was anything coinciding with 5A battery & HID, I was trying to sync up on those lines.

@Nano - I've got the principle of this charging. If I understood you right, are you saying a fully charged 4A battery is sufficient to light up the HID, but, it is the generator's output that should quickly keep charging the battery. Correct me if I'm wrong here.

And again, I was under the impression that HID's are of 35W isn't it? Is it only the Amps that differ between HID & ordinary Halogen? So what's the Amps of the ordinary Halogen?

Now, here're some close-ups on the coil plates. Let me know, if a further close-up is required on any of the parts.

1. contact navnish for the hella Micro DE
2. no the clamps cannot be used inside the dome although you can fix the hella using m seal.
3. normal projector headlamps can be used. the range varies from 2k to 10k per piece.... as per buying you can buy them in the 2 wheeler spare part market near minerva theatre mumbai central..