1. Where can I BUY the Hella Micro DE. I need a pair since I have HIDs installed on my R15, but need projectors for even light distribution.

2. Can the clamps provided by the kit be used for instakkation inside the headlamp assembly of the R15?

3. Any other projector options? If yes, where can I buy them + price

Thank you in advance

Wow wow, how did I missed this thread? Lots of good posts to be referred...

Good job guys

Nano, seems to be u r on full throttle

Good to see u here Abhi once again after a break Stuck with the work load?

I think there are few more to come on this other than me like Doc and Shree. Aagee, I think u can get a good helping hand from Doc once he's settled with the shifting process to Chennai.

Firstly, Hella Micro De is just an Fog/Aux lamp projector not a proper driving module. And its not designed for HID but being its quality and the size it creates less glares compared to other lights like the stock headlamps for Halogens. If you take a wall projection, you will get an idea about what am referring to.

No HID can ensure zero/partial glares unless its fitted to a HID ready headlamp. If someone claims that its nothing more than a myth. I accept that the quality of the HID tube plays a major role in glares plus the glare shield is the only limiting factor in case of almost all chinese versions as they are produced in bulk and comes with a cheap price. Take the pricing of Hella/Osram HID kits are priced at higher range and no body has any doubt the pricing is very aggressive, but at the same time there's question on the quality aspects too. But there too they advise to use a proper HID desgined headlamps for the kit.

We had enough discussions on this topic few months back and I've quoted with enough examples. Have a look at this.



I know the reason behind this justification but still, we should not hide the facts at least in these forums. P.



IIRC, u asked for a Activa HID installation right? I think its possible without much changes if u drive on highways mostly not less than 50Kph, but on city drives it can dump u without lights. But still there's hope if u can upgrade ur battery to 9AH, then u'll get more backup for city drive and all I could say its not a full solution unless u change the RR as the b2b traffic can make the things worse with low charging rates.

Abhi is right in terms of tapping power from 100W light coil, it can be done once you post some macro shots of the windings. U can make use of that coil after de grounding one of the coils and re route it thru APE RR for DC Conversion.

+1 Nano, if the charging rates are healthy, u can even start the HID with a flat battery. I've given my testimony earlier also. Been with a flat battery for 3 days with HID without any issues except on idle it teds to flicker and will mange it by just increasing the throttle a bit more. If u r ready to crank the engine by kick starting u can carry on this as much as possible, even the stock single horn will beep to a satisfactory level.


@Nano, in an AC+DC coil, where the lighting is AC the no of light coils will be more than the batt as the usage of battery is limited and it can be topped up while running but the light power has to be more than the batt coils to support at least a 35W+5W+10W tail= 50-60W AC power where the batt requires only 1-2A consistently at stock condition. Hope u got it.

One more, is it correct that an HID will take only 5A at startup and then stabilize to 2.9A? No, most of the manufacturers are giving the details as on cold start it will take a whopping 8-9A and once its stabilized to full brightness it will settle with a 3.2-3.5A AFAIK. Whats the readings with your kit?

Hey, RX riders are the first ones AFAIK who proved with a 90/100W with Amby Hls.

lets not go to 100w halogens..
this thread is mainly meant for HID's

the single pole RX 100's coil MAY NOT support a hid on dc.
(however trying it will clear all the doubts)
while the 3 pole stator of RD might support if winded properly..

the battery doesn't need complete amps to get charged,
a 2.5 amps battery generally requires 1 amp to get charged.
a 5 amp battery might require 2
my 9 amp battery requires 4 amps, it doesn't even take more even if you provide.

imagine this, if we have a 24Amp car battery on our bike, it can easily light up 6-8 hid's without any issues, but the stator would not REPLENISH will the lost current as it cannot.
hence when the battery will discharge, it will shut down the bulbs and 2 days of riding is needed to recharge it back, so will you guys stay with headlamp OFF for 2 days ?

similarly, a 9 amp battery is good to support 2 hid's (personal experience) and our stator can provide it that extra current so that it never ever gets completely discharged.

let me give you a charging detail with APE RR

when all the electricals are OFF and battery is completely DISCHARGED..
the rr gives max current of 3.98 amps to the battery

when all the electricals are OFF and battery is completely CHARGED..
the rr gives max current of 0.89 amps to the battery

when headlight (1 hid) is on
the rr gives 6 amps to the battery
3 amps for replenishing the discharge of hid and 3 more for charging..

when headlight (2 hid) is on
the rr gives 11 amps to the battery
8 amps totally to replenish the lost amount of current from a 9 amp battery + 3 amps MORE TO CHARGE THE BATTERY.

so the thing is, that a 9 amp battery charges in 3-4 amps of current itself, no matter how much you rewind, ape rr in this way doesn't OVERCHARGE the battery.

a DEAD 9 amp battery requires 15 minutes to get completely charged, if we provide a 4 amp current constantly,

PS:- all this is my own readings and they are 100% correct.

Ok, you're giving me some hope now

That's very clear; I'm getting a hang now.

Yup; got the point.

No it isn't; the second one is a stock Rx100 that is sufficient to charge a 2.5a battery.

Are you asking me? In that case, the first one on the pic is a stator plate from RDD that support 90/100 bulb & they also recommend using 5a battery. Which means, their coil is capable of supplying 5a charge to it. How do you see this? Would that be sufficient to support a HID when the motorcycle is idle/running?

You mean the first one or the second one?

I'm not sure on the amps, but I can VOUCH it support 90/100 bulb.

oops, my bad.
i thought you STRONGLY SUGGESTED, instead of STRONGLY NOT SUGGEST...

^^ No, I am suggesting him to use 1 RR unit only!

@ abhi..

dude, are you mentioning that use 2 rr's, one for charging phase, and the other for the AC output of lighting phase, to send it for charging phase to battery again ??
won't it be a pain in the Bum ??
why not do a simple process of making it single phase, the amps generated will also be more..

@ aargee

don't get confused mate..
see Hid runs of at-least 4 amps...
no matter how much amps your battery is of, Hid will need 4 to start.
so if you have a 2.5 amp battery, and if your bike when ON can provide say 4 amps somehow in idling (which is possible but extremely difficult) then Hid will light up instantly, without any issues..

but if your battery is say 9 amps, or even 5 amps, it won't need the engine to be on to start, so battery drain will also be slower.
hence its recommended to stay with a battery giving 5 amps and above..


@all



if we look at the Second picture with only 1 pole
i doubt this coil will provide necessary 4 amps or above..
it comes in 100cc bikes, abhi are you SURE that RX100 can support a 100w bulb??

in a 100w bulb is on AC it might as if amps are lower, bulb won't glow at full intensity, but a 100w bulb on DC will need good amount of current all the time which i really don't thing this coil can support


regarding the first coil, i believe it can provide 4 amps if properly winded, as my stator can provide 12 Amps....
the poles are bigger, it is very much possible...

I'm getting confused here!!! The first generator I know supports 5A battery, but a group here says a 8A battery is required for HID, another says 3A. So unless these are sorted out, dumb people like me will stay in confused booth!!!

Frankly speaking, no clue at all. I was under the impression that to utilize more space & wind more coils, there're 3 of them compared to a single. So now it looks like its a wrong theory as there're some coils meant for AC & some for DC. Looks like I've got my basics wrong here.

Not sure

There're 3 coils only. Damn sure. I'll try to take a pic of it & post here.

Nope, nothing like that, as long as the coil gives out about 4A (not the same as supporting a 4A battery, that will need only about .5A) , it will work fine. Battery does not really matter much.

The 100/90 line in the first coil is a separate AC line? And there is a separate DC line for the battery? In that case 100/90 line will be good enough both for the battery as well as the HID. We can leave out the other DC line.

Do you have some more detailed pics of the 1st coil? Wanted to see how many coils are winded on it.

Well, Rx100's with 90/100 kit requires a different generator altogether. See my first coil plate that has 3 coils; that one is capable of supporting 90/100. Do you think that one can be used? I've a different RR unit for that coil.

The next one you see with a single coil is a stock 12V for Rx that's capable of supporting 35/35 which is presently being used.

However you see, the stock is capable of charging only a 2.5amp battery & the 90/100 is capable of charging only a 5amp battery, while a Projector/HID setup or a BiXenon requires a 8amp battery, unless it really needs 2.9 or 3amps battery as NanoTech says. In that case, I'm running a risk of loosing the charge on the battery; and one of my reason to state for a separate battery & RR unit exclusively for HID was this reason.

You made a double post dear; one with the incorrect V*W calculation & other with W/V calculation.

what's wrong ??

i have posted on page 3, how come 2 of my posts get displayed here on page 4, that too one of it which was incomplete ??

Doesn't matter where it is mounted! Have you seen the coil? Was it wounded to the full with no extra space? If not, you can always rewind. BTW, I have heard of RX100s with 100W bulbs. Seems possible to me.

Thanks Abhijeeth;
Suddenly its all making sense to me; let me share what I was thinking until now. I was considering an option for HID setup with Rx. Now its more than evident as why it can't be fixed; may be possible, only if the coil is changed like the ones on the modern motorcycles.

And this is no easy job since the coil is mounted on the crankshaft. Either one has to make a custom stator plate which IMO will also cause the entire wiring to be customized in turn; which clearly means - BIG MESS!!!

But I'm immensefully Thankful to people here for helping me understand the basics. May be I'll try doing the setup on my WagonR, it should be possible. The car has lots of potential as it carries around a 35amps battery

For Pulsars, 19 AWG works best.

There is simply not enough space to wind a seperate coil for the 8A battery, and the current coil can only generate as much as it is doing currently.

And, I would strongly recommend you not to go for dual RR unit + batts. It can go kaput easily and would be a mess to maintain too, plus there is no advantage in it.

oh my god !!!!

guys why don't you search some threads initially or at-least GOOGLE before posting up every single question..

now let me clear up 1 part..
DC CONVERSION for AC bikes.

okay..
first let me tell you, HID when switched on, does consume more current, but DEFINITELY not 8amps or 10amps as someone said.

the basic is that AMPS means Current.
so the calculation is 35w / 12volts = Current (amps)
so in general a 35w hid/halo/anything will consume 12v and require totally 2.91 amps (stabilized).
before it goes to stabilized stage it requires MAX upto 4 amps. goes down pretty quick, so even a 5 amp battery is sufficient for a single HID.


now lets come to VERY BASICS of coil rewinding and APE RR.

see there's 1 thing called as coil.
it CHARGES your Battery.
it looks like this ---


so generally out of these 7 poles, where copper wire is winded, 3 are for HEADLIGHT (which is on AC), while 4 are for CHARGING the battery.
which in even simpler terms means that 3 of the poles will provide current to the headlight bulb, 4 will provide current to the battery to CHARGING.

so when we talk about DC, we pull up all the current from the BATTERY itself.
so initially your headlight had a different source, now your battery is that source, so it will DISCHARGE Faster, no matter how much amps has the factory provided.
to overcome this we do COIL REWINDING.

what we do it USE all the 7 poles for CHARGING ITSELF.
so those 3 poles which go unused otherwise are used to charge the battery..

to do this you need to take a SINGLE WIRE, rewind it across all 7 poles and then give output to ape rr directly with no other contact.

got it ??

now your battery is getting almost double charge.
the reason we use ape rr particularly is because it NEVER OVERCHARGES the battery.
if battery is fully charged, it won't even provide 1 amp extra.

my bike's ape rr provides 0.89 amps at 12k rpm if the battery is fully charged.
but when needed, the same ape rr provides 13 amps at 12k rpm, when battery is dead, also when both of my HID's is ON.


got it ?