I was wondering where the discussion about my DC conv was going on all this time... was looking in the wrong threads...

Update to doc, shree, navnish - am still running in always-on mode... till now no issues with rest of the things. I'm getting a new digital MM in a day or two . So will check everything.

@doc - please post the specs of the capacitor I need to install once you figure it out. The display restarting when switching on the HID (only 4 times total till now) is the only problem yet...

@Sajan - boss, I'll call you at day time. I came to this thread today only, so missed out on all the conversations going on here..

@Shree - the ride back was not about guts, but I needed to be back by tuesday to take care of few things... Then again, the NH7 can be used with a blind fold man... hehe

On load no charge-load present then 8.5 amps. Dont worry.

Errr !! I am worried about over charge What will happen if there is no load ?? Pumping 8.5amps to a 9aH battery ?

Regarding faith on you. Dude, you have a PM

@ shreeni, sajan..

i checked today, i did change to low beam high beam every 5 mins...
it has stopped now, now it generally takes lesser time for my headlight to go to stabilization state..
no more red color anywhere...
if it happens again sooner or later, I'll call navnish...
i don't want to make him worry before its really a problem as it happened only 2 times that too just once..

@ aargee

what sajan meant regarding the cost is that if you end up paying 2k for bulb, 2.5k for rr and batt, 500 for coil, and maybe another 500 for doing the labor it turns out to be quite expensive at the end of the day..
also remember you need to buy projectors or amby reflectors, so in all it turns out to be quite expensive than what you think it will be..
but since you have already made up your mind, go for it..
its worth every penny...

and more is never enough, i have well spread, well focused DUAL hids installed still i want something better..
human being is very greedy...
now if i loot a bank sooner or later, my next mod will be fixing up a 24 amp batt somewhere on a saddlebag, and fixing up 2 bixenons (projectors) in headlamp assembly, + 2 h7's in p220's reflector somewhere....

don't worry about the diagram which sajan will post, its very simple, even previously i never understood it, but later worked on it and everything turned out well..

you don't realize how lucky you are mate as sajan, abhi, Doc, Shree all are here to help you together...
ask me...

and just when i thought you didnt have faith in me!!!!!.
actually if you dont put load then amp will not cross 1.5~2 k mark,.talked with lijo told him to run all day on hid mode and throw away the kicker!!,just to ensure the coil is working well,.
thje voltage is 14+ on load that is the biggest indicator of the load effect,its good.
i checked the coiland it was givin 8.5 amps from 6 k rpm onwords but the real bit is its givin 4amps from 2k.

only prob lijo is facing is low drop of amp while turning on which can be eliminated by using capacitor .....

An update from Lijok, he started yesterday evening from Bangalore to Trivandrum.
Real guts I must say to take his bike directly during night after conversion.
He has used his HID for more than 10 hours and there is no signs of battery drain. ALL IZZ WELL

@Nano - Give a call to Navnish and check with him. I ve never come across such situation.

Forgot about the two RR's here; yes, I understand the importance of converting the entire vehicle to DC now!!!

Nothing wrong; got the point

Right; just the lines needs to be changed.

That's already in place.

Thanks; and again, I'm not used to the diagrams. So I guess, I'll understand the basic, throughly, very thoroughly, prepare mentally as how the work needs to be carried out & then go with it. I'm setting aside about 2 months only to learn, only by then, I can get the 90/100 dynamo in place & disc brakes fixed in.

Thanks

Well, I don't mind the cost for a quality setup. See any of my posts, I would've never asked for price. First I understand as what goes inside the work & what needs to be done. Once the understanding is in place, I decide if it is necessary. Once it becomes necessary, cost is not a factor for quality work.

Since Doc is in town, I'll consult with him before even visiting any accessory shops. At this stage I'm not even sure whether to go for Projectors or BiXenon, however, I'm SURE that Rx can be fixed with one of these & hence I'm determined to do it

May be at the same time, I'll replace those age old bulbs in pilot lamps assy with LED's too.

Dude, if u need to lightup the HID without issues u need to do DC conversion and keeping two rrs will make it complicated and risky too. Why dont u make use all poles in the stator coils for better results instead of splitting into two? If u get a decent power from the coils to support ur total load then whats wrong in powering the tails and positions from DC?

For DC conversion, there wont be much wiring changes and u can use the stock harness too. Only thing is there will be some re routing of wires to get the DC.

First u make up ur mind for the mod then we'll post the diagram and step by step procedures. Not that complicated if u've some general awareness in electricals and bit patience and enthusiasm on which u scored already.

Its not an economical mod, for DC conversion it may set u back by 2K and for the HID another 2K. If u've any plans to go for projectors then think about right now, as u cant use the HID bulb in the projector. In terms of lighting nothing is sufficient even if u've 2 hid on tap or u ask Nano or Doc.

Guys, do I really need to convert my entire lighting to DC including tail lamps? Another question is, I hope I don't need to do any additional wiring or change any existing wiring from the existing Minda OE wiring. Right?

If ur batt is in full charge/riding @5K then there should not be any power shortage, obviously it can be a HID issue. Ask Navnish for a clarification.

damm shree 1300 rs for alpha series, I've been looted then as i paid 1894, almost 1900 for the same..

besides there's 1 important thing i want to share with all of you..
today i was riding at highway arr 5k rpm and i turned my HIGH beam ON.
the bulb initially was dimmer, but as soon as it entered stabilization state, it flickered RED-YELLOW-RED-YELLOW, and then turned off.
i got scared as maybe the bulb had gone kaput.
i tried to switch it on again after a while and same thing happened.
the red was very wild, just like red signal's color or tail light's color.
i kept the bulb switched off for a min,later switched it on, and it turned red-yellow once and continued to stay yellow later on...
is there anything i need to worry about..
it seems it has turned more yellower than before, but low beam and high beam color is same, both are a bit more yellow that previously, anything to worry about??

the battery was COMPLETELY CHARGED FYI...

Mine is Amron Pro Bike Rider 9AH, 60 months warranty (30+30) for 1.3K one yr back No alpha-beta-Omega series were then. I bought it thru a friend from the stockist, dealers are cut throats Try to get a best deal from stockists if u know some one there.




Hey, I just cant believe the readings as most of the manufacturers are claiming that the latest will drink a min of 6.5-7A at the cold start Here's a data sheet from one of the supplier.




And this is my 1.5 yr old H4 kit, pls go thru the ratings displayed.



Typical old Philips HID Ballast



Admitting that the sticker may be fake as Philips is not making any ballasts or HID tubes.

Shree is right, as long as ur coil and rr is fine u can lightup both. Since ur coil is in BEP @ 3K rpm, ur batt is just a reserv for the b2b traffic


Yes let'm come up with the figures then we'll conclude.

Double checked it sir !! I have told Lijo to run the HID even day time. Lets see how long can it practically withstand.

Answers in BOLD

its good to see that finally all of us are here back again !!
by the way...
saj, even my previous multimeter (cheap one) showed stupid readings, multimeters in amp mode don't tend to show exact readings, so a friend of mine has a very expensive and detailed DMM, i checked it with that, 2-3 times, infact whenever i go to his place, we never forget to check the readings...

besides a 9A amaron batt comes in 2 versions..
alpha and beta series, alpha series has a 60 months warranty + pro rata exchange, while beta series has 48 months.

alpha costs 1894/- here (official dealer) when i bought,
beta is 200/- less than alpha.

it might cost lesser there as everything here is more expensive..

one more thing that i would like to share, yesterday night i was riding in city for maybe 2-3 hours, and at some places i had to switch my engine off for 5 mins, all the while i kept BOTH of my hid ON..
i wanted to kill the battery actually, and when i was returning home, my speedo stopped working.
seeing that i switched to low beam, when i did so the speedo started again and horn also turned weaker, but a 10 min more riding to reach the building charged the battery enough to give a powerful horn..
maybe since my battery is newer, its satisfying, but later on when it will turn old, (like in cellphones) it would drain very quickly....

let's see how long can i be happy for...

Yep, I'm aware of that.

Ok, but I need to be careful on the charging time & the output from RR right?

Sorry; appreciate a little elaboration. Tks.

Yep; I heard about the beack walk with Raghav in the last bikers meet. Thanks for offering your help, but, I'm more of a DIY person unless something seriously requires out of my control. So you've to be patient with me in executing things.

Let me know in advance on our meetings, I'll bring that 3 coiled generator to show you.

Well, you can look forward to see it, but I'm not sure if it hyper or cipher