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Basic of Projectors, HID and their Installation

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  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post
    i completely agree with you sajan, you don't need to attach anything convincing more than your post.
    from a long time I've been bothered with those vents, however YOU initially suggested me to attach clamp kind of things so that the air flow still remains without light leakage.

    i trust you completely, but in my case when i opened the dome to re-adjust the beam as well as to check the relay and stuff, the problem I've been facing with high beam, i noticed that a lot of dust had been settled down inside the reflective surface of the projector.

    hence i closed it, but it still is very much open, it still leaks light, and is still well ventilated, but comparatively less so that it doesn't get dusted, as it really affects the brightness of the projector.

    but i clearly remember in many videos on youtube that they mentioned to close all the vents to PREVENT HEAT from escaping out, i could have asked it that day itself, but i trusted you more than anyone and without any second thoughts did what you recommended to leave the vents open.

    i just mentioned here as a similar doubt had been put up.

    but i still say, in my own opinion, to keep the vents ABOVE the projector closed so that the dust doesn't settle inside and keep the ones BELOW the projector open to keep it cooler.
    as dust doesn't enter from below, gravity makes it fall downwards.
    Thanks for taking my word

    U r right, keep the vents closed from the front and let some gap behind to give more air circulation. I think this is already done in all OE Hls. If u try to open a projector from a HL assy u can see this. Heat vents are provided at the back. I still remember once I had a chance to open a Laura projector. Its a full unit with ballast and everything is bolted to the lens assy as a whole and this unit again bolted to the HL assy. Once u pull it out u can see the gaps just below the lens. The front portion of the HL assy is acting as a shroud and if u closely observe from the front glass, there r air gaps more than 2mm between the HL assy and the lens.

    But in that case also there should not be any dust accumulation in the glass or lens as its fully sealed and the heat vents are provided just behind the HL assy by using L shaped rubber tubes. So there's only a little chance to get the dust inside.

    Nano, check for the front and back side of ur HL assy for any dust entry. In Pulsar HL assy is fully sealed once u close the glass and the bulb is installed with the black rubber cover is fixed. Check for the cover seatings onto the bulb base also check for the L shaped heat vent tubes are there or not. Its meant for protecting the dome from direct water splashes but at the same time its not letting the dust too.


    Originally posted by Puneet1 View Post
    im thinking what if we add a small cpu fan at bottom of projector to make heat escape out , even on a 55 watt hid the projector will last very long i think this way
    Puneet, if u install the kit as per the manufacturer's instructions, no need of any extra cooling device is required, else they would've mentioned.

    Leave a comment:


  • Puneet1
    replied
    im thinking what if we add a small cpu fan at bottom of projector to make heat escape out , even on a 55 watt hid the projector will last very long i think this way

    Leave a comment:


  • NANOtechnology
    replied
    Originally posted by sajjt View Post
    Dude, I've posted a small briefing about the heat vents on the previous post. Its a must for any light source emitting heat. I've read some write ups about this but cant recollect the source right now. Its as simple as common logic.

    I've also seen the videos both u guys mentioned and they are mainly for restricting the light coming thru the sides and I guess there should be enough other heat vent to compensate this. If u happen to dismantle any OE projector, all these projectors are open with these vents to make sure enough heat vents and the shroud will take care of this issue. I dont know how to prove or convince u guys for the time being as I dont've much supporting facts to attach

    Let me try to get some links to help this
    i completely agree with you sajan, you don't need to attach anything convincing more than your post.
    from a long time I've been bothered with those vents, however YOU initially suggested me to attach clamp kind of things so that the air flow still remains without light leakage.

    i trust you completely, but in my case when i opened the dome to re-adjust the beam as well as to check the relay and stuff, the problem I've been facing with high beam, i noticed that a lot of dust had been settled down inside the reflective surface of the projector.

    hence i closed it, but it still is very much open, it still leaks light, and is still well ventilated, but comparatively less so that it doesn't get dusted, as it really affects the brightness of the projector.

    but i clearly remember in many videos on youtube that they mentioned to close all the vents to PREVENT HEAT from escaping out, i could have asked it that day itself, but i trusted you more than anyone and without any second thoughts did what you recommended to leave the vents open.

    i just mentioned here as a similar doubt had been put up.

    but i still say, in my own opinion, to keep the vents ABOVE the projector closed so that the dust doesn't settle inside and keep the ones BELOW the projector open to keep it cooler.
    as dust doesn't enter from below, gravity makes it fall downwards.

    Leave a comment:


  • sajjt
    replied
    For the time being here r some of the projector comparisons for the heat vents are provided by various manufacturers





    Bosch Bi Xen



    Another one




    I think u guys r talking about this:




    Its an FXR type which is known for its quality and the price. But the manufacturers are clever enough to provide enough heat vents as much as possible on the sides but not that visible from the pic.

    Leave a comment:


  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by RanjithMN View Post
    Thanks a ton for the nth time Sajjan!
    I mounted my setup with a spare reflector and it was successful!
    once i complete the proper setup ill come to you with it for advice on the shroud and abt closing the gaps!
    thanks again man!
    Ok, come up with the new setup in action

    Leave a comment:


  • RanjithMN
    replied
    Thanks a ton for the nth time Sajjan!
    I mounted my setup with a spare reflector and it was successful!
    once i complete the proper setup ill come to you with it for advice on the shroud and abt closing the gaps!
    thanks again man!

    Leave a comment:


  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post
    even i wanted to ask this to Sajan.
    when i was working on my setup, i did see some youtube videos, however EVERYWHERE they mentioned to close all the vents on the projectors to PREVENT heat from escaping out.

    almost in every video i heard it, but i wasn't confident as they are right or not.

    besides a personal thing and experience says that after CLOSING the projector, it doesn't give out any difference in the way the bulb lights up, it takes the same time to glow to full intensity, and glows equally bright too, the only difference is that the inner part of the projector doesn't dust up as it does with open vents.

    i closed it just to prevent dust as well as to prevent lighting up of my dome from the inside and forks etc on keeping the low beam on, just to avoid light leakage that occured with open vents, but still i am not sure weather keeping it closed is good, or keeping it open.
    Dude, I've posted a small briefing about the heat vents on the previous post. Its a must for any light source emitting heat. I've read some write ups about this but cant recollect the source right now. Its as simple as common logic.

    I've also seen the videos both u guys mentioned and they are mainly for restricting the light coming thru the sides and I guess there should be enough other heat vent to compensate this. If u happen to dismantle any OE projector, all these projectors are open with these vents to make sure enough heat vents and the shroud will take care of this issue. I dont know how to prove or convince u guys for the time being as I dont've much supporting facts to attach

    Let me try to get some links to help this

    Leave a comment:


  • sajjt
    replied
    Originally posted by RanjithMN View Post
    Sajjan bhai
    im still not clear about this...the shrouds will end up closing those heat vents anyway right?
    for eg.even your projectors shroud is completely closed up right?then from from where is the heat escaping?
    and i have also seen some sealed projectors tht are closed up even without shrouds?
    and the foll. is a reply i got from another forum
    pls do give your insight on this!

    Thanks a ton!
    Its obvious to have heat vents in a light source and most of us know that the HID tube will heats up to a higher temp at the initialization time and once its stabilized, it will come to a cooler state than a normal halogen. There are heat vents even in the normal reflector back by using a L shaped rubber tubing. So what ever on the lens be there for the good health of ur bulb as well as the reflector coating.

    Shrouds are mainly limiting the light coming out of the sides of projectors and it gives a neat and finished look from outside. So if u tamper or alter a shroud I would suggest to keep those vents to be open.

    My projector is not closed completely, the shroud is just sitting on the lens and by that its limiting light coming out of the sides.

    Here's the some snaps:

    Projector is mounted on the reflector, note the lens holder on which the shroud will be locked.



    With shroud


    Note the gap in between



    The shroud is just sitting just above the reflector and there's enough gap in between



    See the lights are coming out of the sides but its negligible compared to the output through the lens.

    No projectors will be designed without proper heat vents as its a must AFAIK.

    Ranjith, make a call and come over to my place, so that we can discuss in detail

    Leave a comment:


  • RanjithMN
    replied
    ah...so im not the only one with this doubt!
    another Question is...if HID do need to vent the heat out....then how come when HID's work fine without any vents when they are fit into our normal reflectors(without proj.)?

    @Nano
    yep..even most of the vids i saw closed them up!
    with what have you closed the vents?and how long have you been running it like that?
    Last edited by RanjithMN; 10-25-2010, 10:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • NANOtechnology
    replied
    Originally posted by RanjithMN View Post
    Sajjan bhai
    im still not clear about this...the shrouds will end up closing those heat vents anyway right?
    for eg.even your projectors shroud is completely closed up right?then from from where is the heat escaping?
    and i have also seen some sealed projectors tht are closed up even without shrouds?
    and the foll. is a reply i got from another forum
    pls do give your insight on this!

    Thanks a ton!
    even i wanted to ask this to Sajan.
    when i was working on my setup, i did see some youtube videos, however EVERYWHERE they mentioned to close all the vents on the projectors to PREVENT heat from escaping out.

    almost in every video i heard it, but i wasn't confident as they are right or not.

    besides a personal thing and experience says that after CLOSING the projector, it doesn't give out any difference in the way the bulb lights up, it takes the same time to glow to full intensity, and glows equally bright too, the only difference is that the inner part of the projector doesn't dust up as it does with open vents.

    i closed it just to prevent dust as well as to prevent lighting up of my dome from the inside and forks etc on keeping the low beam on, just to avoid light leakage that occured with open vents, but still i am not sure weather keeping it closed is good, or keeping it open.

    Leave a comment:


  • RanjithMN
    replied
    Originally posted by sajjt View Post
    These are heat vents and that should not be closed. This is one of the use of shrouds. Else, light will be scattering from all sides of the OE reflector and make a mess. Try to keep the original shroud with FZ reflector so that it will give more neat look.
    Sajjan bhai
    im still not clear about this...the shrouds will end up closing those heat vents anyway right?
    for eg.even your projectors shroud is completely closed up right?then from from where is the heat escaping?
    and i have also seen some sealed projectors tht are closed up even without shrouds?
    and the foll. is a reply i got from another forum
    those holes are a manufacturing design. i cannot say for sure what the reason is, but i do know many hid projectors are completely closed up. so it seems they do not need to vent heat. but it is still nice to have extra vents for the projector to run cooler. in oem headlamps, there is always a shroud/cover around the holes to block the light. but if you need to cover them, use a few layers of 3M foil/metal tape which has adhesive backing and can mold into any shape. on my retro, i had to close up one side due to light leaking thru the turn signal lens. the other side i left open cause the hi beam reflector blocked the light from escaping. there is very little overall light escaping from those holes, so it does not matter if they are covered or not for performance. but it can be enough to cause glare if mounted in a reflector headlamp setup. foil tape will work to block light, and also a shroud which most of us use for cosmetic reasons. foil tape is ugly, shroud is chrome and nice looking
    pls do give your insight on this!

    Thanks a ton!

    Leave a comment:


  • RanjithMN
    replied
    Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post
    if you peel off the reflective surface the surface below it would be GREY.
    this was the case of my reflector (TVS FIERO F2), however as much as i know the surface of p220's high beam reflector is black from below.

    drip kerosene and rub with a cloth vigorously, the reflective surface will come off.
    Thanks a lot Nano!
    but unlike the fiero the FZ has a black base...

    Leave a comment:


  • drvmtm
    replied
    Originally posted by apoorvasheth View Post
    Respected Experts,

    Hello! This is Apoorva from Mumbai. I have posted my query about installing an HID Kit in my Bajaj Discover 125CC DTSi bike however; I haven't received that effective reply from that thread. Seems like I posted my query under wrong section so, I would like you to visit this link please and help me in achieving success of getting the HID Kit on my Bajaj Discover Bike please.

    Also, I feel that from the specs provided about my bike in the booklet, it is a DC+AC however, on that link, I am being replied that my bike is an AC so I first need to get it converted to DC....which I feel isn't the case. So, kindly assist me on that as well.

    Thanks all for the efforts!

    HID Kit for Bajaj Discover 125CC?
    http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...ver-125cc.html
    ac+dc setup is tricky.

    you have 2 options...
    • CONVERT AC+DC TO FULL DC USING REWINDING AND RECTIFIER AND REGULATOR CHANGE.
    • OR BY INCREASE THE CHARGING RATE BY USING A BRIDGE RECTIFIER OF YOUR AC PART.

    If you dont know about anything of these please go through nano tecnologys thread in helpme section.

    remember its can be done.
    REMEMBER ITS NOT A JOB THAT CAN BE DONE BY ANY AUTO MECH!

    Leave a comment:


  • apoorvasheth
    replied
    HID Kit for Bajaj Discover 125CC?

    Respected Experts,

    Hello! This is Apoorva from Mumbai. I have posted my query about installing an HID Kit in my Bajaj Discover 125CC DTSi bike however; I haven't received that effective reply from that thread. Seems like I posted my query under wrong section so, I would like you to visit this link please and help me in achieving success of getting the HID Kit on my Bajaj Discover Bike please.

    Also, I feel that from the specs provided about my bike in the booklet, it is a DC+AC however, on that link, I am being replied that my bike is an AC so I first need to get it converted to DC....which I feel isn't the case. So, kindly assist me on that as well.

    Thanks all for the efforts!

    HID Kit for Bajaj Discover 125CC?
    <div class='xflo_forum_img'> <a href="http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/"><img src='images/catimages/xflo/helpme.png'/></a> </div> <div class='xflo_forum_text'> Wanna know whats wrong with your bike or or looking for the best mechanic in your town? Ask here! </div>

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    Originally posted by PRATIK322 View Post
    Yeah bro even I thought the same & most of the time I drive above 6K RPM & sometimes red-lining it in the course, so I presume that the battery must be charging on a regular basis but still a pair of 35w HID's made my battery almost dead. anything else I can chk?
    Check the voltages at the battery at different rpms with both the HIDs ON and report it here.

    Originally posted by kashif.sayed View Post
    I used Bi-xenon projector with 4300K Hid Bulb. R15 does not support twin HID running together. what i mean to say is.

    they would work as long as bike is in motion and RPM is above 4.5K moment it goes down below 4K HID start drainig battery. in matter of 5-6 mins your completely charge battery will go to low.

    Here is another issue even tho you make sure RPM is above 4.5K but when engine heats up and fan kick in you will get orange light lit up.


    Blame it on chinese Ballast i guess branded ones should not have these problems or we have to upgrade the batteries to higher amps highest we can go for is for 5A witout modification.
    This draining is with single or dual HIDs?

    I was thinking of buying this bike, if it does not even support a single HID, I will have to do rewinding on a new bike!!

    Leave a comment:

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