connect that H4 socket, directly to the oem headlight socket.

I'll work on it on weekend. I'll let you guys know what happened. My tools are not complete here in my boarding house. My tools are in our house which is far from where I currently stay. Probably I'll be able to update by Monday already because most of the time our internet connection at home is dead.

Guys thanks so much for helping me. I'll extend your ideas to my fellows here in the Philippines specially for the Pulsar users.

By the way, can I ask for the specifications for the converting of a R200 stator from AC to Full DC? E.g. magnetic wire gauge and number of turns and poles to be use. There are some guys here asking me how to do it but sadly I can't help them.

I know you guys can help them. Or you can just provide me all the links that can be helpful to them then it is upto them how they will study or analyze everything.

Dear, have'nt u connected all these already? Or u got confused once u dismantled the harness? Connect the 3 pin socket (male adapter) to the stock socket. Check its working.

If the problem still persists, connect the red wire from battery to the stock switch middle wire in parallel which is the low beam power. Lets know the result.

Thanks man.

Thanks dude, I really expected u to bump into this before I post but u disappointed me

U spared my 1 hr for gathering all details

And.... its all ur fault

It is currently plugged-in to each other just that the Brown wire that is connected in the projector is tapped in the Pink wire to one of the sockets on the left group. The White wire is disconnected and the Blue wire ran to the separated switch that is installed.

Now, on the connection you posted earlier, I will be returning everything to the original form so I can follow your instructions. I have to rebuild the wiring connections of the male socket (the one that came with the kit that has brown, blue and white wire). Then after that I will disconnect all the wiring from the installed toggle switch then focus on the male and female headlight socket and wiring. I will tap a wire to the Brown one going to the supply.... because the other two is for the hi/lo beam I think...

@Sajjt

If I am going to plug the male socket included in the kit just like in your pictures And I will attach th yellow wire for the supply then I will attach the socket to its partner, the female one which is the stock bulb socket AND which is also already has a supply that came from the BCU. Isn't there a conflict?

Any good place in western suburb to get Projectors and HID for my ZMA.

not in mumbai but you can contact Navnish for bixenon projectors and HID....

in mumbai for projectors you can go to mumbai central near minerva theatre at the two wheeler market but do chk them for cut offs....

Massive Projector

Guys, I am thinking of using this projector as an auxiliary light for my P220F. Any other ideas for this projector? Comments please.

The dimensions are: 3" D X 5.5" L

Hello guys! It's good to be back again!

Here is the picture of my HID wiring.





I worked on it this weekend as I said to Sajjt.

SCENE 1:

I tried returned it to the stock connection. I removed the dedicated switch and returned the cut wires in the HID Socket. After returning them to their original state I plugged in the HID Socket to the Stock Headlight Socket.

RESULT:
The HID flickered and projector shield opens and closes after that the HID is completely turned off.

MY ANALYSIS:
This is maybe the BCU has a current limiter. Once the HID bulb is powered up (switched on) the BCU detects how much current it gets then because the HID draws a lot of current the BCU switches from lo beam to hi beam thinking that the current needed by the HID bulb will be sustained by switching to hi beam. But because the hi/lo switch controls only the projector shield the current being drawn by HID bulb is not changing which makes the BCU cut-off. Why? Because it exceeds the current that the BCU is allowed to throw to give light.

In this stock setup there no luck.



SCENE 2:
I removed the Brown wire from the socket while the hi and low beam wires from the two sockets are still connected. I tapped the brown wire to the body ground but nothing happened. Still the three green wires with blue stripe are not connected.

RESULT: Nothing.

ANALYSIS: Nothing too.

SCENE 3: I returned the Brown wire to the socket and pull out the Blue (hi beam) and White (low beam) then I tapped the White wire to the positive pole of the battery while the Blue wire is not tapped to anything.

RESULT: The HID bulb lights up together with the park lights. Nothing happens when I switch in the headlight on because it is already turned on together with the park lights.

I tried the hi beam if the HID will light up but no luck. It didn't lighted up.

ANALYSIS: Still not the right connection.


Now base on those scenes, I came up with this conclusion: For me to be able to use the stock LH & RH switches of my P220S I must also use the wires that came from the BCU. Why? Because all the wires (everything on it) from the LH & RH switches run to the BCU to get current used to trigger the magnetic switches. I cannot make a separate connection to use the stock switches because the current will not be complete. To make a complete current cycle I must use a positive and negative wire THAT CAME from the BCU. Making a connection that one end came from the BCU and one end is directly connected to the battery or body ground makes nothing because it doesn't triggers the magnetic switches. The magnetic switches is driven only by the BCU and NOT by any external currents.


For the electrical geeks here, what should I do so that I can use the stock RH & LH headlight switches of my P220S to light up my HID?

Go back to stock in terms of wiring. Join all the cut wires and ape them nicely as if you were going to use the stock halgoen again. Now connect the HID without using any relay at all. It will work. Nano too suggested the same on the last page.
The HID flickers because the BCU thinks that the low beam is kaput so tries the high beam and there too the same. It keeps trying to find one beam that will eat current. But since you are using a relay the only current eaten from the BCU is that by the relay coil which is negligible. That is exactly what makes the BCU think that the beams are kaput. BCU has a load sensor. Not a load limiter. HIDs run via the BCU easily.
Rahuldevnath is running them. So are many others.

The flickering of HID can be more of a RELAY issue too, not just the BCU issue, but that high beam/ low beam swap thingy is definitely the BCU, so i think you should rather do this....

instead of taping anything else from anywhere, why don't you keep all the connections stock, and plonk relays after the BCU, i.e 1 relay after the high beam wire, 1 relay after the low beam wire ????
as the primary source is still the battery, the BCU will never have to go through heavy load !!
the BCU will only trigger the current, and all the load will be taken from the battery, hence it might work.

When we use 100w of halos onto our stock switches, don't we do the same ?
as our stock switches are incapable of handling that amount of current.

it would make things much easier i believe.

@ pavan

I never asked anybody to run the HID without the relay....

@OkleT,

I hope u've tested ur kit before the installation, if not test it first and proceed.

Best thing is, avoid the relays on the HID harness and connect it directly if possible, else,

Try this: Connect every stock wire as it is, disconnect the 2 way switch too. To the stock bulb socket connect the HID kit male adapter. Now connect the HID kit black power wire to the ground. Take the HID kit Red wire (+ve) to the white wire of the HID kit adaptor as shown in the pic

Ok maybe I misunderstood. He needs to remove the relays altogether.
Sajit explained it perfectly!

Thanks Sajjt. I have done your instructions too but without the diodes as seen in the diagram. What I only tried is leaving the brown wire in the male socket and pull the blue and white wires out from the socket then tapped it to the positive pole of the battery. And nothing happened. I did it both in the blue and white wire.

We are going to have a ride with my clubmates on weekend. And it is a very long one because we are going go ride a ship together with our Pulsars. So probably I'll be trying this on the other weekend Sajjt.

For now, I just want to know if my understanding is correct. My concern is on the functions of the diodes on the Blue wire. How will this work? Isn't it the BCU will receive a 6A current to make the stock switches work? How much ampere does the BCU need to trigger the magnetic RH/LH switches? Because I think the position of the two diodes should be inverted so that the BCU will receive a 1A current from the HID Kit which is enough (I think) to make a trigger for the magnetic switches and a 6A current to power the projector shield driven by the HID relay/controller kit to make it open??

I'm sorry everyone if I look like stupid to you. I really don't have any knowledge in this kind of work. I am really confused..