If the stock switch is drawing excess current than the stock rating, BCU will trigger treating as a short circuit. Have you guys got a control box along with the HID kit which is having a relay and avoid this false triping?.

even i don't understand that sajjt.
with relays control box and everything, why is this flickering happening, i guess a relay to that main RH side wire should do the job.

@ okleyT

yes a horn relay is SPST and should work.

the flickering might also be because of a faulty relay....
did you check the relay....
if on switching the HID if the realy is making a buzzing sound it is almost certain that the relay is faulty check that out...

@OkleyT, Check the battery health before switching on HID. Sometimes a half filled battery may struggle to deliver initial surge. Are u facing this all the time u switch it on? Try 2 rev it above 4K rpm and check.

I am not sure that the latest BCU is smart enough to compete with a CANBUS If then u may need a warning cancellor harness to tackle this

@OkleyT: Its the BCU acting up. That idiotic thing has a logic in it that makes it switch to the other beam when the selected beam is not working. And the BCU finds out whether the beam is working or not by sensing the amount of current drawn by the beam. Now since you are using a relay, the current drawn to turn the relay ON or OFF is very small, and that the relay is turned ON or OFF by the beam wires, the current drawn by the beam line is very low making the BCU think that the beam is gone and hence switch to the other beam on its own but its the same case in the other beam as you are using only one relay since its a bixenon kit.

So the solution is get rid of the relay and use fatter wires.

Hope my explanation was easy to understand.
BTW Beam = the high beam wire or the low beam wire.

Since you have a 220S, which is exactly like the 220F minus the fairing and the dedicated projectors, the BCU has got to be similar in design.
Hence refer the following

how much did tht HIDs fr ur bros ZMR cost n howz its effect on d hiways

Yes, the kit I bought has a control box. The whole package I bought has 1 projector with built-in angel eye, one 35W ballast, 1 35W single beam HID bulb, and 1 controller. All of those are connected already to where they should be connected. I have also connected the positive and negative wires directly to the battery. My problem is circling around the RH switch, the wires in that goes to the hi/lo connection and the BCU. My battery is good. If I rev it the voltage goes up.

Ok I'll try this one...

The relays are working fine. I am currently using a separate switch for the HID. What I want is to use to stock RH and LH light switches and eliminate that separate switch that I installed for the HID.

The battery is good Sajjt. what is a CANBUS? My work is your idea. I copied it. So I suppose you can help me on this. I don't have deep knowledge on electronics/electrical just simple +/- connections. How did you make yours work? Did you used a separrate switch to turn on your HID?

We have the same thing in mind bro!! I am thinking day and night on how I will eliminate that idiotic thing in the BCU so I can use the stock switches. Where will I use the fatter wires? How fat should it be? Is the gauge 16 enough? or should I use 14?

14 will be good. Try installing the HID without the relay. I think it will work perfectly.

Yes that means BCU is sensitive enough to monitor the excess/low current draw at the load end. Try what Pawan said it will work as one of the fellow member Rahul is already using this setup.

Try this, I guess u've used the wiring harness kit supplied along with the HID, and the stock bulb socket is used operating the control box. Disconnect the red wire to the batt +ve and connect it parallel to the stock bulb socket centre wire ie; low beam wire as shown in pic and try to switch on. Let us know the result.




BTW, my bike doesn't've a BCU as its UG2 ver. so there were no worries to tackle this.

CAN-bus technology

Controller area network - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Oh I see...I thought we have the same ride bro.. My apology...

I am a bit confused with your diagram.... My problem is in here:


Stock Bulb Socket:
____ The color of the wire here is Black with Yellow stripe
|
__|__
____| -- |____
| __ __ | <---- In here is Red with Yellow stripe too same in
|_____________ | with the other one




Socket Included in the HID Kit:

____ The color of the wire here is Solid Brown
|
__|__
____| -- |____
| __ __ | <---- In here is Blue; the other side is White
|_____________ |


When the Kit was tested in the shop where I bought it the White is Low beam and the Blue is the Hi-beam....

When my electrician installed the kit he didn't used the White wire. He only used the Blue and the Brown. But on my dedicated switch the hi and lo works fine. I can't figure out what did he do or how did he do it.

By the way this is the wiring diagram of the kit I bought:


The one labeled with "Connecting outside control power" does not really exist in the kit. I don't why but it doesn't matter.

Hope we can figure this out guys...

Ah.. its bit confusing to follow the colour codes as there's no standards followed by the manufacturers. It'll be varying from manufacturer to manufacturer. So lets go by item by item.

OK, lets make it simple,

Ur kit will have these components:

1. HID bulb with connectors to the ballast and its connecting to the ballast. (I know this part is over still, to make sure)



2. From the ballast there will be another connector going to the control box and from control box there will be 2 wires red and black for the power source.



3. From the projector u'll've 2 wires for the solenoid which will make the dual beam effect.


In this pic bulb is mounted to the projector, note the red and black wire with connector is the solenoid wire.


4. Another set of wires will be coming from the shroud(front chrome cover) for the angel eyes CCFL which is to be connected to the driver supplied as a separate box other than the ballast and the controller.


5. From the control box another wire for driving the high beam which is to be connected to the high beam wire from the solenoid.(Item # 3).




6. There will be one adaptor to connect to ur stock bulb socket to draw the relay power and the high beam trigger. This is to be plugged to the stock bulb socket.



We need to connect the red wire for the power source (item #2) to the middle wire of the stock bulb socket. So that the power will be drawn from the stock lines and this could tackle the issue.



Take this pic as eg; Socket facing side like in the pic, middle wire (Yellow) is the low beam wire, left (Pink) is the high beam wire last and obviously black is ground.

I hope u only have to replace the connection from the battery to the stock socket middle wire as the black is already connected to the ground.

Nice explanation dude!

Really great explanation sajjt
keep up the good work...

Thanks Sajjt..but still I'm a bit confused without knowing where the wire colors should be connected....But I will try my best to try your instructions.. I will print this and study while looking at my wiring... Thanks so much for the effort guys... I will update you once I made it..

Just for your reference guys.... After I have connected the HID bulb, ballast, controller, and relay to each other...and I supposed I am correct to where they should be connected because the sockets are paired already. After that, I got 5 ends. A black wire, a Red wire with a flat fuse and the headlight connector same at the pic you posted attached with the HID Kit I installed that has Brown, White and Blue wires in it.

I connected the Black wire to the negative of the battery terminal, then the Red one at the positive terminal of the battery. Now all left is the headlight connector that has Brown, Blue and White wires in it.

The Brown wire is the supply for the bulb and the blue and white wires are for the hi/lo beams... Where do I suppose to connect these three wires?