Arre yar, if I sacrifice AC light anyway I have around 50w power wasted. So thinking to put APE RR unit without rewinding. If that doesn't fulfill my needs only then I will proceed with rewinding. I wont go to Junk Hunt again Will buy a new APE or Minidor RR.

Yeah u cant sacrifice the AC as its the main power source. But without rewinding dont expect miracles out of ur std 60W coil to feed 2X55 and 100!. Without adequate charging power u will not get full brightness from a 9AH batt. So u need to rewind the coil if u want to load up all these. Now am really admiring the Pulsar coil for providing so much of space for rewinding and even my batt coils are ready to take up another 3.5A. Having a capacity of 130W, it's still having space for another 20-30W. See my rewounded coil, Sorry for the poor quality pics from my mobile and for not cleaning before taking the snaps.




So want happened last time during junk yard hunt for the RR? Or decided to go for a new one anyway? Nice choice, for me that was just a trial, not sure of the outcome, so I choose junk which is cost effective.

Hi all, at last I made the circuit complete with a good waterproof packaging. Thanks to my old bikes security system box .

My plan is simple, convert the AC power (headlight) to DC and provide it to battery for extra charge, along with the stock charging system and use a 55/60 bulb for h/l.

What say should I install this in my bike? Any further safety before testing?

Thanks to abhijeet for this nice circuit. Also to Rahuldebnath for giving answer of my silly questions.

KAUSHIK

NICE WORK THERE, IT WONT BURN OR BURST THE BATTERY. JUST MAKE SURE THERE IS NO LOSE CONNECTION. GIVE A SWITCH TO TURN ON THIS CUSTOM RR UNIT, CONNECT TO BATTERY.

TEST CHARGING VOLTAGE USING MULTIMETER.
TEST FOR DIFFERENT CASES.

WITH HEADLIGHT ON , CUSTOM RR OFF.
WITH HEADLIGHT ON , CUSTOM RR ON.

WITH HEADLIGHT OFF , CUSTOM RR OFF.
WITH HEADLIGHT OFF , CUSTOM RR ON.

WITH CUSTOM RR ON, IF U FIND THE CHARGING IS IMPROVED THEN YOU ARE DONE.

Looking good.. nice box! Just connect the input to the RR unit AC o/p and measure this rectifier o/p voltage. If the voltage is within 12-14V range you are good.

Well thanks for your support.
AC line (Headlight) from magneto goes to stock RR is above +14 volt, but after RR regulated current is 12.xx volt, increase with the RPM but not cross 13 volt. Now I connect this out put to the AC input of my custom RR and found a DC out put above +40 volt. I tried a H4 bulb with this direct output and bulb glows normal, so the amperage is low though it is +40 volt.

Now my question is, is it OK to put this high out put voltage to battery for charging? I fear that it will fry the battery soon.

Next, I tried this setup for say five minutes without putting this to battery, found that the capacitor is very hot but the diodes are Ok, Though I have check the polarity properly.

My indicator bulb fried while trying this.

I think you can go ahead and connect to battery n then check voltage.

Firstly what you made is a bridge rectifier not an RR, u r tapping the regulated power from the stock RR of the light coil and making it to DC.

I assume that the voltage increase is by the presense of capacitor. Why should you use a capacitor if the output of the bridge is fed to batt? Its acting as a capacitor as well as a good buffer. Change the Cap and try the volt. Did u measure the current out from the bridge?. Any wires are heating up while connecting it?

I tried this before and the outcome was not impressive as the moment I connect bridge input to the regulated AC light wire, its heats up. I dont know why may be something wrong with my wiring But once I changed the RR, the whole thing came out very nice.

One important feed back after conversion.Three days back my batt went flat, my 4 year old assistant put on the spots until it went off and secretly walked away. In the evening, I tried to start, and found that its flat. So I kick started and drove to some 100 mtrs and tried to switch on the HID, wow, its up with a flat batt and I was able to honk my pairs too with its full power. Only limitation was I was not getting the full brightness of the 2 spots. But till date batt is not in condition may its fried by now. I used to fry my batt continously for a month with HID due to charging issues, may be thats the reason but not guilty as I used it for 2.5 yr and at last I found a remedy for it. And now, any thing can be run with the new setup without a good batt.

GOD helps me.

Exactly. The current setup makes me happier than ever as its capable of feeding the HID's from the coil, which was supposed to be impossible for atleast for me.

For Uni also it would be suitable and no doubt in that, but slight wiring change is required as now the lighting is AC to be bypassed to DC conn. And I dont think u've spent more than 50-60 for the bridge and the KB100 RR, seems that too junk salvage wont take more than another 100 or 150. A fresh APE RR wil cost around 650-700, and from junk you will get around 200-300 max, all depends on ur bargain skills. just replace it and forget it. U are done. In the mean time ask others is there any other eco mods available for u. I think Shreeni will has some thing to comment on this mod as he's the creator of this thread. Hows ur setup man? Increased the charging rate for a 55W?

Broie..!! I told you ..
Am riding Bullet now, so have given a small break for my Uni but will be putting APE RR very soon.

THat doesnt mean u cant comment man its ur baby.

I am not done with the setup to comment yar

A glad news for u, I've checked with my electrician for Uni rewinding, no RR change is required unless u want to change the charging rate. So if u want to keep the AC for the projector it will serve, but how about the other two?

You think