Sreeni, am not sure about Uni's electricals, but this thing will work with any of the bike as the general electrical systems are almost same with AC+DC. I assume yours is a single phase one. First you have to disconnect the stock RR connector as you dont need this if u succeed. Now pull out the AC wires of the lighting coil from the socket coming from the coil, (In my Pulsar one wire was grounded so if yours, check for that with grounding check[thanks to Abhi who pointed this me] to get a full wave bridging, connect it to a high capacity RR, in my case, I used a 3 wheeler single phase RR, so you can also use the same I hope, new one will cost 600/- I got it for 150 from junk yard. Its got 4 wires, AC input wires will be 2 having the same colours and the ground will be black and +ve will be red or yellow. Bolt the RR to the body along with the ground wire, connect the AC wires to the AC out from the stator coil, connect the +ve to the ingnition switch wire for the battery on/off. Before starting disconnect the battery -ve cable and make sure that all lights, what ever possibile should be off as we havent measured the output volt.Start the engine and make the idle speed @4K which will be our normal riding rpm generally and measure the voltage across the battery charging leads. If its something around 13.5-14.5, then measure the amps coming from the charging cable. It should be around 5-6A from a normal 60W coil which is morethan enough to feed a 9AH with HID. Mine was a 100W so the output was 8A, now am very generous in using my HID and the spots for the testing for the past 2 days. My batt stays cool!!


Sudharma, Generally there are very few variants in terms of watts available, 25W (very rare) ,35 and 50W. HID will consume only 50% of the conventional halogens consumption. HIDs will take a good amount of current at the time of warming up, after stabilization ie; when it comes to full brightness the current draw reduces to one third of it. Its got 2 wires for the bulb, one is for ignition which operates at 21000volts!!! almost as same as our TV's CRTs using and the other one is for after warming up which operates at 85V!!. Imagine from a nutshell sized battery it has to squeeze out this much of power, no wonder our batteries got fried with a healthy charging rate. Mine is a 35W so initial consumption will be something around 8-9A then it will come to 3.3-3.5A after a few seconds of warming. There's a batt saving tip, the more you switch on and off the more current will be drawn from the batt.

You can refer these links to get an overall idea about the HID Xenon bulbs.
Xenon Optics High Performance HID Conversion Kit | Brighter and Safer road ahead
Automotive lighting FAQ - Headlamp HID bulbs
Xenon HID Conversion Kits 3000k 6000k 8000k 10000k
Headlamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

^^ Hey, thanks for the details. So, APE RR unit is the one to use. And when anyone rewinds their stator coil, they can change over to this RR unit.

Now, all pieces are falling in place!

I would go for a another declaration, go for the high cap RR only if you want to make the electricals to DC with higher cap bulb either halo or HID.

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

Sreeni, am not sure about Uni's electricals, but this thing will work with any of the bike as the general electrical systems are almost same with AC+DC. I assume yours is a single phase one. First you have to disconnect the stock RR connector as you dont need this if u succeed. Now pull out the AC wires of the lighting coil from the socket coming from the coil, (In my Pulsar one wire was grounded so if yours, check for that with grounding check[thanks to Abhi who pointed this me] to get a full wave bridging, connect it to a high capacity RR, in my case, I used a 3 wheeler single phase RR, so you can also use the same I hope, new one will cost 600/- I got it for 150 from junk yard. Its got 4 wires, AC input wires will be 2 having the same colours and the ground will be black and +ve will be red or yellow. Bolt the RR to the body along with the ground wire, connect the AC wires to the AC out from the stator coil, connect the +ve to the ingnition switch wire for the battery on/off. Before starting disconnect the battery -ve cable and make sure that all lights, whatever possibile should be off as we havent measured the output volt.Start the engine and make the idle speed @4K which will be our normal riding rpm generally and measure the voltage across the battery charging leads. If its something around 13.5-14.5, then measure the amps coming from the charging cable. It should be around 5-6A from a normal 60W coil which is morethan enough to feed a 9AH with HID. Mine was a 100W so the output was 8A, now am very generous in using my HID and the spots for the testing for the past 2 days. My batt stays cool!!

Thanks for the detailed info bro. Thanks for reconfirming the info of RR Unit for which I wanted a 2nd opinion.

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

^^ Hey, thanks for the details. So, APE RR unit is the one to use. And when anyone rewinds their stator coil, they can change over to this RR unit.

Now, all pieces are falling in place!

Yup..!! Will be doing coil rewind and upgrading the RR Unit soon.

Originally posted by sajanjosepht View Post

I would go for a another declaration, go for the high cap RR only if you want to make the electricals to DC with higher cap bulb either halo or HID.

I told reconfirmation bcz this was the information i got from 1 of the fellow rider.


My MAIL to the person (Anil) and His Reply.

Oops this looks like a pretty long post

Thank you very much for the information on HIDs. I appreciate it . I still remember reading that when the Xenon head lights started getting installed on cars, it was mandatory to have washer / wipers on the head lights as little dust and grime on the headlight glass will disperse the light beam in a hazardous way. Also I remember that there used to be a solenoid on the head light which repositions the lamp assembly for high / Low beam. The kits also used to cost hell-a-lot of money. I guess rules and regulations might have changed with times and might have done away with the requirement of washer/wipers. Could you pls confirm this is the case now.?
the HIDs used on bikermentioned here, are they designed specially for bikes or are they from cars?

Hi Shreeni, yes indeed it was a very long post but its worth to post.

Yes you can use any of these 3 wheeler RRs as all are generous to feed a 50AH battery. But APE and Minidoor are more easy to adapt as they are single phase and not much confusions, whereas GC1000 RR is also single phase but its having 4 out +,-, one more lead to to batt to give the DC to the RR function, and one more which I dont know. ZMA and P220 are 3 phase so I havent tried it, but I hope it will work with single phase also by leaving one wire open. I just tried my luck and to test the feasibility, thatz why it ended up with these RRs. But when I contacted many auto electricians, all said one thing, not possible as its entirely different from these engines. I think these morons are not using their brains even after getting some lead or inspiration from somewhere. I was so disappointed to hear all these and some are even more saracstic with this idea so I decided to go ahead without the aid of these idiots and am happy to be here now. I've spent hours in junk yards, trying with all kinds of thingies which I got access, and finally it proved I was right.

Go ahead with your plans, we all are here to help you out. I really envy your projector project, which is so sexy and eye catching. Good luck. an also coming to that track shortly but in a different way.


Sudharma, I am using a car kit, as the motor bike kit is available here is not having the glare sheild. With the sheild am not happy with the glare issues, so cant imagine without that. But there are people go in for the cheap motorbike kits knowingly or not. Am into another research, a good sealed beam for the HID to take care of the glares, I have opened a thread for it, do some contributions if you have any.



Rules are the same to my knowledge and its our behaviour to be fine tuned. You are right with the headlight washers are mandatory in some European countries but it applies to OEMs, once the car is on the street, there are lot of after market stuffs are available even to track a speed tracer vehicle. So very few people are concerned about it. Beam levelers are standard now in all cars only thing is they are not auto level controled. If you are reluctant to dip your lights to an oncoming vehicle, whatz the point its equipped? I am fed up with these buses and trucks with 4X130W halogens who are least bothered about others and thatz why I ended up with HID now at least I can see whats in front of me and nobody can ignore this powerful light too eventhough its levelled to its lower level. One snap to High beam is morethan enough to make most of these truckers to behave properly on the roads. Thatz enough to save my life.

Guys intalling the Relay is the only solution you have as per my opinion, I'm saying so beacuse I'm using HID on my FZ 16 as well, & the kit I installed came with a relay, so that the battery does not get discharged. I checked the battery immediately after installing the HID kit & Voila the battery did not get discharged.

CHEERS,
G D

You got the kit from Yamaha, or bought from outside?

Dear, your FZ16 is all DC bike right? Here we have AC+DC electricals, which means AC is for lighting and DC is for batt charging for other requirements such as starter horns etc. So very little current is fed to the batt from the RR. A DC bike uses the full alternator power to a RR and its fed to battery only so the charging rate will be higher than the AC+DC bike charging.

Its because of your ignorance you are suggesting for a relay, a relay is taking off the load from the stock switch which is not capable of handling a huge current. And believe me, relay is also a switch only but it acts with the help of magnetic contacts and its not producing any power from it. Its a very long misconcept people are carrying over years person to person. Its all from these street side mech are giving this much of wrong informations passing by saying with cut outs, box, etc... By using a relay the stock swtich is powering the relay coil only which is considerably very very low and once the coil is activated a heavy duty contact is engaged to make the circuit close or make the equipment functional. Almost all of the HID kits are coming with a relay within the control box as its good for the life of the HID too.

I hope I have clarified your doubts and hope I didnt hurt you.

+1. Relay is not Magic. Period. It does not produce power magically. Period. It is just a switch. Period

Thanks Abhi, Can u explain the term period?

Period means ".", also called full stop. Here, it is just used to emphasize the line before it.

Eg - R15 is a great bike. Period.

Here, period emphasizes the line before it.

OKAY. period

In JUNK YARD how do i recognize the RR Unit is the right one which am searching for..!!!

Junk yard salvage is an econo option, as far am concerned, I was not so sure about its performance, its a trial so I opted for junk to save money. U can also choose if u dont want to go for a new one. Ask for the battery charger for APE 3 wheeler, use all the terms u know such as RR unit, regulator etc. to make them convince what you want. They might ask u the new or old model, any model will do, only the socket diff. Dont give them morethan 150-250 as the new one will cost u 650/ and test ur bargain ability. Am sure that you are not a rookie in this like u've got the lenses U can go for the minidoor also but a bit higher price, but onething is sure this small thing is quite sturdy as its bolted to the outer side of the chassis on these vehicles.