Re: HID causing battery drain

UG3 is an ac bike and its rectifer charging caters only for charging battery for horns, indicator and for selfstarting.

Maintenance batteries(Filling water and charging types) only last for 2+ years in my experience. If the battery is amaron non-maintenance type it would last for 3+ years. Thats it.

UG3 stator coil and rectifier is not intended for continuous charging the battery i.e; as you are using hid (i am supposing it as 35w hid and uses battery power continuously). Its not the way how UG3 electricals are designed. If you have planned for hid, you MUST AND SHOULD upgrade the stator coil and rectifier so that the battery issues will not popup.

If your battery is Maintenance type and exceeded 2+ years, if life has ended. throw it away and buy non-maintenance amaron 9ah battery.

Checking your battery and regulator
With all off-----> check voltage at battery it should be around atleast 12.9-13.3

Ignition on and kick start bike, off the lights, indicators and other stuff----> raise the throttle gradually and check voltage at battery. the voltage should touch 13.6-13.8V+ DC at any cost with above 3/4 th throttle.

If the voltage is above 13.8V, your bikes rectifier is Good, which indicates your battery life is over. Dont waste your money in charging again and again as it is 2+years battery. In my experience.

"Becoz i think my battery is fine but its not getting charged properly., I had gone through this article (hid causing battery discharge )and found that by fixing the right rectifier I can save both my battery and the hid head lamps."

Its always Stator+Rectifier that decides the charge in battery.

UG3 stator and rectifier are not designed to give continuous charge for operating your HID.
UG3 stator is for two purposes. Half cores for lighting(AC) and half cores for charging battery and UG3 Rectifier takes both these athings and gives voltage for lighting and for battery charging.

UG4 has total DC electricals with Full winded stator and Rectifer(Only for charging battery). UG4 can handle the HID(35W) setup with ease.

Re: HID causing battery drain

Re: HID causing battery drain

bro,, if rr is alright then can't suggest you anything don't know much about it,, as i do not require hid lights and all and did fell in such a kind of situation,,, so sorry bro
but before buying anything

satisfy yourself,..... i have wasted 6000 rs... just because of fuc**** bcu and again i had to spend 4 to 5k for upgrading to UG 5..
so be aware,,, and beware



yeah one more thing here is a guy (srinivas s143s). he suffered alot because of all this hid and all so search him and ask him,...
may be he can hep you out bro

Re: HID causing battery drain

oPPS... he already replied to you...

Re: HID causing battery drain

hi ...
its alright ...thanks anyways for your time and reply.

i too have put a some money to this around 3k and i don't want to spend any more if its not helping to come out this situation ..that's why i am here...

i am thank full to him also ...he did give me some tips to check my battery...i am on it now.

i hope i ll soon find a solution for my problem here.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



hi srinivas ...

i did as u told me to do for checking the battery..

First with switching on the bike i got 12.80 - 13.00 around the battery terminals

and then with kick start and engine running i go around 13.80 to 14.00 and climbing around the battery terminals.

and with 4000 rpm also i got around 13.50 to 13.80

according to this data i guess my stator and the rectifier unit are good and working well ...and i am getting enough power to charge my battery..

along with this i noted that when i used the self-start the reading suddenly dropped to 8.55 ...does this mean something?...or is this normal?

i also have read in an article that if the reading around the terminals of the battery is more than the required volts it may damage the battery..is it true?
becoz i am getting 14.00 and above in the terminals when the engines are running...this might have damaged my battery and reduced its life.


as mentioned before can i change my stator to ug4 stator and rr unit...will this help me?'
how much the ug4 stator and rectifer unit will cost me... if i do this mod will my battery be able to handle all the electrical without causing any problems in the future.
plz five me a affordable solutions..

Re: HID causing battery drain

Your readings are good. but NOTE that the Regulator will be working more and more and will FAIL EARLY than it should because of the overload to charge battery more.
its like making a horse(Regulator) to run more and more than its capability. what happens..?? Simple... it runs for a certain period and it dies early...!!! It applies to all regulators whether its ac or dc..!!!

14V+ Charging DC voltage to even 15VDC is not an issue for charging Battery.

For checking perfectly whether your battery is weak or not. do the following:

Kickstart the bike. START THE BIKE ONLY WITH KICK. Run the bike for a day or more than 40-50kms(or more than that) WITHOUT USING any horn, headlight or even self start. Now at the end of the day your battery is charged well,

Remove both the wires that are connecting to spark plugs(So that engine will not start).
Ignition on(Off all switches of lights indicators etc), Now press start button with Continuous 4 seconds, Release and again do the same. After three times if your bike has bcu, self will not function so turn off the key and on ignition key and again try to self start the bike.
i.e try to Press and release self button atleast 15-20 times with 4 seconds continuos usage at every press. YES, you heard it right. DO IT.

even after that the battery should be able to crank the engine as it does at the first attempt.

If its not able to crank or showing weak symptoms. The answer is your battery life has come to an end.


I have tried it myself once on my UG2 (I had choked airfilter and bike not getting started) and even starting continuosly more than 30 times(bike not getting started) the battery is still able to crank the engine same as it does on first attempt..!!!


Remember one thing the battery has to be charged decently when its been used, its not like our mobile battery. Improper/Low charge with high usage(More power headlights/other accessories) will have severe effects on life of battery.

One can use a 60w headlight without any issue if the stator and regulator are able to feed the battery properly in time..!! Ex: Bajaj V15, Avenger

In my bike UG2 im running 60/55 W light without any issue with Avneger180 stator coil+ Avenger Regulator setup, though its an AC setup and has nothing to do it with DC. (Stock pulsar regulator will fail at sometime as the power supplied will be much more than stock Pulsar stator)


The image you have shared. MAN.. What he has done..???
The red rectangle is a capacitor. It smoothens the electric flow to battery. its a part of UG4 Rectifier. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO OR NO USE IN YOUR CASE..!!!
The Green Circle one is a Regulator from another bike may be Apache.?? Cant say it for sure... Why he has connected it..?? two cases

case 1: If he was trying to utilize lighting power of your bike converted to dc(using Green circle regulator) along with your bikes regulator, it will lead to DISASTER.


Case 2: He is using that regulator for only charging the battery. (As you said that you are not able to start the bike there is high chance that your regulator charging circuit has gone kaput and he fixed it using other bikes regulator. YES.. as i said earlier there are chances that it will fail.)
This case2 will not be a problem if done properly.

Try to remove the socket from Green circle regulator and start bike and check voltage at battery. Does the voltage increasing with throttle...?? If No, that regulator is being used for charging battery.


Do one thing try to take atleast 3-4 pics of that regulator connections clearly showing all the wires. The white color male socket of your bike regulator as well as female connector of your bike wiring that is connected to it. You tell me what are the wires that are going and coming out for both the regulators. DO IT ASAP.

Your bike regulator has six wires...

2 Blue-white wires--- AC power comes from stator to regulator for charging the battery
White wire--- DC +ve out to battery +pole
black-yellow wire-- DC-ve to Battery-ve pole or to the Bike chasis

Yellow-red wire--- Ac power comes from stator to regulator for Lighting
Yellow wire---Ac power out for lighting.


Using both lighting and battery charging combined to charge battery would lead to disaster, battery damage or FIRE or more that...!!


"is there any option to change my stator to ug4 stator which can handle both my hid and charge the battery at the same time?
if yes should i change the wiring of my bike also?"


UG2,3 has a dedicated pole for spark generation for its CDI. UG4 pulsars all stator cores are winded for battery charging. UG4 CDI draws its power from battery or it will have inside dc conversion mechanism.
So you cant use UG4 stator without changing CDI, wiring mod and ignition timng, TDC and other mods.

So you have only an option of rewinding all your UG3 stator cores (leaving the ignition coil) and using the generated power to charge your battery using UG4 Regulator.

If you intend to do this you have to convert your bike to all dc and its a big question how the UG3 AC electrical system BCU will respond (Chances are there to FAIL). If the BCU part is same for both UG3 and UG4, then you can go ahead with out any second thougts.


UG3 to UG4.5 electricals are JUST SHIT..!!!!

You have not mentioned the rating of your HID 35w..??? 55w..??? 60W..??
Even the UG4 struggles to light up 55w.. cause even UG4 is not designed to handle 55w current for lighting purpose.

Re: HID causing battery drain

Re: HID causing battery drain

Replies in Bold. See.. In my experience many almost 80% dont know what they are doing. They will fix temporarily. When you are going to fix a Hid for your UG3, the electrician for making easy money they will fix and says everything will be fine. Sometimes its also intentional for making easy money...!!!

Re: HID causing battery drain

Hey… thanks man for the info…I have posted 5 snaps of the connections he had made…


The pics are the same but from different angles… in the last pic .. in the top left that red box like thing is it my stock regulator?

“What i am saying is remove the socket from that regulator. start bike and check voltage at battery. if voltage is not increasing, it means that regulator is used for charging battery. Any way if you click the pics of those 6 wires at that white socket i will be able to say what he has done with your bike.”

as u have mentioned here which connection should I disconnect?
The 6 terminal connections or the 4 terminal connection?


as u can c in the male connector one of the middle wire is not in the connector but he has took the wire outside and from that wire he has drawn two wires that is green and yell ow which goes to the other connector...why he has done this?

Re: HID causing battery drain

Read till the end.

The Red Brick like thing is your bikes regulator.

You have taken the pics but the connections are not clear as the mechanic has covered them with tapes.

--->In last pic, two wires(Yellow and green of 4 pin connector) are joined and cant be seen where they are going.

As per what i am seeing (you have to confirm it), In 4th pic (last but one) and last one, Yellow-Red(Stator generated AC power for lighting) is cut from going to your bikes original regulator and it is joined with Green and Yellow wires of 2nd Regulator. (You have to confirm that Green and Yellow are combined and joined to Yellow-Red wire)
Now Lightgreen-Red(of 2nd regulator) is Joined with Black-Yellow(Ground) of Original regulator
and White wire(of 2nd regulator) is joined with White wire(DC +ve out to battery ) of Original regulator.

Hmm---> if that is what he has done. Its Parallel-Charging. BE READY FOR SURPRISES...!!! FIRE and MORE..!!!!

I will explain you what he has done.....

He has not disturbed your bikes Charging. That is i am talking about your 6 wire regulator.
The two Blue-White wires brings AC voltage to your regulator and converts to DC voltage and now
The Whitewire gives +ve to your battery
The Black-Yellow gives -ve to your battery

They are not disturbed or cut in between by the mechanic as they charge the battery. Am i right..???

The Yellow-Red wire carries AC current for Lighting to your stock regulator and your stock regulator regulates it around 40-45watts of AC and gives that current out via Yellow wire to your headlight and Pilot lamps and other lights which work on AC voltage.

Now he has cut the above Yellow-Red wire and completely kept it far from reaching your regulator and
fed it to New regulator(4-pin) and took the converted DC voltage out of it via White(DC+ve out) and Lightgreen-Red(DC-ve out) and Mixed it back with your original regulators White(DC+ve out) and Black-Yellow(DC-ve out)


uffffff...... He has no clue of what harm he is doing... It will F*** your bikes electriclas (I am saying on what i am seeing in your pics. you have to confirm it)


Now Test it-- >
Both Regulators sockets are connected right...????
Remove 4-pin socket. start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
Now Fix that socket back and remove 6-pin socket(If you removed 4pin at first, fix that back and now remove 6pin one). now start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.

If in both cases either removing 4pin or 6 pin, voltage is increasing.. right..???, its parallel charging.

Your bike is in serious trouble if its parallel charging. Test it as soon as possible.


For double confirming Parallel charging do the following.

Disconnect battery both +ve and -ve wires (i.e; remove battery connections at battery terminals)


Case1:
Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??


Case2:
Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??

look at pic for reference



If in both cases the voltage is increasing then its Parallel charging.

If you get readings as what i said(If voltage increasing in both cases), First, you disconnect the 4-pin connector and you can ride your bike for the time being without further damaging your bikes electricals and battery.


Revert back with results

Re: HID causing battery drain




as u have mentioned in ur message the red-yellow wire was bringing ac voltage to my stock regulator and then sent back to power my stock halogen bulb through yellow wire right (in the 6 pin regulator)?

now the yellow wire is idle right it is not supplying any power to any electrical of my bike right?

now the question arises ...how are my ac electrical working ...from where is the power being supplied to them? i cannot c any wire going out of my batter to my hid or horn? can u plz explain this ?

there are some new symptoms in my bike now ...while riding during the day time electric start works for a couple of time horn also works for two times the no sound coming from it.. since i don do much traveling in the bike (aprox 14kms per day ).

and during the night when the hid is on a battery sign starts to flash in the display of my bike ...and no electric start or horn works..

what dose these symptoms indicate?
dose is say that my battery is dead? or going to be dead? or starving for power? or unable to store power?

thanks srinivas for your patients and time.. i hope i am not irritating you.

will be back with the results soon.

Re: HID causing battery drain

Answers in normal fonts

Re: HID causing battery drain

hi...i am back with the data.. i lost my display while conducting one test.

with both the regulators the readings in the battery terminals are 14.44 to 15.43 when throttle raised to 3500-4000rpm

Now Test it-- >
Both Regulators sockets are connected right...????
Remove 4-pin socket. start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
readings for 6 pin regulator -13.84 to13.95 @3500 to 4000 rpm

Now Fix that socket back and remove 6-pin socket(If you removed 4pin at first, fix that back and now remove 6pin one). now start bike and take readings at battery. the voltage will increase.
Readings for 4 pin regulator -14.52 to14.72 @3500 to 4000 rpm

If in both cases either removing 4pin or 6 pin, voltage is increasing.. right..???, its parallel charging.
the voltage is almost the same for both the the test. what dose this mean?

Your bike is in serious trouble if its parallel charging. Test it as soon as possible.


For double confirming Parallel charging do the following.

Disconnect battery both +ve and -ve wires (i.e; remove battery connections at battery terminals)


Case1:
Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
readings @ idling starts @4v and as the throttle is raised to 4000rpm it shows 5,6 and >

Case2:
Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
readings @ idling starts @ 9.80v to 20 and above before reaching 4000 rpm

while doing the case 2 test i lost my display ...no numbers or lights in the display.

in the above data when the readings for 6 pin regulator with battery connection is 13.84 approx and without battery connection is 4 to 8v approx (i have given the acceleration only till 4000 rpm for all the test becoz that's my normal riding speed) dose this mean that my stock regulator is not working properly?
becoz according to my knowledge after reading this whole messages the readings in the 6 pin socket (in the white and black -yellow wire which goes for charging the battery)without the battery connected should be above 12volts becoz that's the voltage required for charging the battery right?

that's why he has connected the other regulator right ?

which one is working fine my stock regulator or the 4 pin regulator?
while testing the case 2 i lost my display ,is this due to the high voltage given out by the 4 pin regulator?

today after doing all these i disconnected the connection from the 4 pin regulator and started using the stock one only...
my hid was running ok with the stock regulator but the horn was not working.

what to do i am confused... i am thinking removing the hid and fitting a normal led light in its place.

my mechanic told me that a new type of led light which can be directly fitted into the halogen bulb socket has arrived in the market ,he told me to bring everything back to the stock mode and then he will fix that led bulb to the headlights.

option 1
now in the present condition my hid is running through battery.if i just remove the hid and fix a halogen bulb holder and fix a halogen bulb or led bulb will it work? (becoz in stock mode my halogen bulb was running in ac current ,i could not switch on the lights without starting the engine) will the power consumption from battery will be more than hid or less that hid.

or

option 2
if i change everything back to ac and fix the same halogen or led bulb will it work?( in this mode i will not be able to switch on the headlights without starting the engine)with this mode atleast i can decrease the load on my battery as the lights will run on direct stator produced ac current .

which one is better? option 1 or option 2?


dose both the halogen and led bulb work in both ac and dc mode?

and at last i have decided i will not replace the display until i sort out this issue.

Re: HID causing battery drain


As per your readings, both regulators are charging battery and its PARALLEL CHARGING..!!! Its confirmed..!!

I thought that you know using multimeter. As you are checking DC at 20Volts setting(Wheel pointer)range in Multimeter and that range has crossed your multimeter might have stopped working..!!!

As far as your 6-pin regulator readings they are fine..!!!

I explained in a detailed manner and you have not done what i have said....

To confirm your bikes stock regulator and battery health, you have to remove 4-pin regulator, drive your bike for a good amount of time(read previous messages) so that you are testing the battery and regulator.

YOU SHOULD NOT USE HID OR ANY LIGHTS WHILE DOING THIS...!!!

Mann... i have already said that and you are saying HID is working fine.. Then whats the use of all these things...

HID doesnt care about anything. if your bike battery has some charge it will work until charge gets finished.

First Test your bike as i have said..

After riding your bike for good amount of time(Ride a single day for more than 50-60kms if possible, try to drive at 4-5K RPM(or more than that) if possible), test your bike for proper functioning of Horns and selfstarter (Read previous messages, i have given how to test)

without these details, i cant help you..

One more thing as long as reliability is concerned donot go for any LED lights. First test your bike and revert with results.

I will tell you again..

1. Remove 4-pin regulator
2. Start your bike only with kick and ride for number of kms if possible ride at 4-5K rpm but take care..!!
3. Donot use.. Horn, Selfstarter, Hid, or any others while doing the whole test.
4. do it for a day(if covered a lot of kms) or do it for 2 days.
5. After completing test(use kick at day starting) and after that you should be able to use selfstart when ever you want and horn also. NEVER EVER USE HID EVEN AFTER COMPLETING THE TEST AND COMING BACK HERE...!!!

YOU ARE NOT GETTING WHAT I AM SAYING. YOUR BIKE REGULATOR IS INTENDED TO SUPPORT HORN, SELF AND INDICATORS ONLY.
AFTER MARKET LEDS ARE POOR IN RELIABLITY AND GIEVS AWFUL LIGHTING AND NOT USEFUL IN FOG AND RAINY CONDITIONS.

IF THE MECHANIC IS TRYING TO USE YOUR BIKES AC LIGHTING THEN ALSO RELIABILITY WILL BE AN ISSUE AS UG2 AND UG3 HAVE ALWAYS FLUCTUATING AC THROUGH OUT THE RPM RANGE.

DONOT GO FOR ANY LEDS, COME HERE BACK WITH RESULTS..

Re: HID causing battery drain


ya i know how to use a multi meter and set the range in it ...the multi meter was not mine ..
i borrowed it from the mechanic ...he had set the range and given it to me..

but i got the readings right?

i know and remember what u have said regarding the test... i cannot do it at present because the distance between my home and my office is 4 kms one way ...in a day i hardly travel 10kms in the bike.. and i have 12 hours shift if i travel one way during day (i.e without the lights ) while returning i should use the lights during return.

(run the bike for 40 to 50 kms without any horn self or hid then disconnect the wire from spark plug and crank the engine using self 19 to 20 times if the performance is same as the first cranking for the 21 first time my battery and regulator are fine) this is the test that u told me to do right? i remember it.

i think i will not be able to do this test in the near future...but if i get a chance to travel that much i will surely keep the points that u have mentioned in mind and do the tests..


but at present from couple of days i have disconnected the 4 pin regulator...and as i said for the range i am traveling i can self start for a couple of times and use horn during the ride... during night its only hid nothing else.

"Case1:
Remove 4-pin connector and keep connected your original Regulator connection(6-pin). Now at the 6-pin socket place leads of multi meter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Black-yellow wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
readings @ idling starts @4v and as the throttle is raised to 4000rpm it shows 5,6 and >

Case2:
Remove 6-pin connector and keep connected your 4-pin Regulator . Now at the 4-pin socket place leads of multimeter, +ve at white wire, -ve at Lightgreen-Red wire, start bike and check reading. Increasing DC voltage..??
readings @ idling starts @ 9.80v to 20 and above before reaching 4000 rpm"why there is this much diffrence in reading in this test..
since the stock regulator reading is less compared to the 4 pin regulator i thought my regulator has already been destroyed.


so going back to stock with the halogen light is the best for the bike and for my purse also i think so.

i have one more doubt.
is there any difference in the switches used in the bike like ac switches which is ment for the systems running on ac power and dc switches for dc systems?

becoz when i installed the HID the electrician told me for the HID to work properly i have to change all the switches as my stock switches were ac compatible and will not work for dc set up is this true?