Query Approved.

well to start off,a pulsy 200 dtsi has ac+dc electricals.
so u have a 35 watt halogen lamps which work on ac power which flickers with engine speed,this can be turned on only when the bikes engine is running.
other coils which feeds the battery is not that much powerfull as battery operated electricals are very less,only the major chunk is used when to start the bike.
now it depends upon u,what u wanna do.
if u want a 55/60 headlight which can be run on ac then its a pretty straight foroward job just get a avenger stater coil (dv 111005) and replace the stock coil on ur bike with this one and voila u can run 55/60 bulb on front!!!u will face the prob of flickering in low speed though its the safest and easyest jobs,trust me,also part is oem so total peace of mind,no battery drainage issus either,.point to note here this will only help u to support the 55/60 bulb in ac mode no other increase of charge will be there.....

other option is to go for coil rewinding with ape rectifier and change of circuit.it will turn the bike in all dc!!i did it few days back.here is the link http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/help-me/...tml#post351066


also in both cases there will be no load to engine trust me ,i tried every setup.if u r using stock dome then stick to 55/60 bulb man otherwise it will melt the reflecter!

You can get the avenger 180 coil installed and a 65 watt bulb and get ur bike converted to DC. Use the headlight wiring from the coil to charge the battery using a custom rectifier. here are some threads for reference.




The circuit that applies for UG3 in the converted-my-pulsar-150-classic-all-dc thread applies to the p200. Not the one for the classic. I have been running this setup for quite some time. Works fine. Avenger coil costs Rs. 532/- Part number DV111005 and the rectifier circuit will approximately cost Rs 100/- roughly.

Wake of One more guru No offence, only u can give this much details at a strech. Nice briefing dr.

thanks a lot guys understood most of it .ok so if i put avy stator coil i can use a 65w with no stress . and if i go for coil rewinding then a much higher output and to convert to DC need ape rectifier that is a single or three phase one and by putting this rectifier is there any chance the BCU have a problem ...

from where did you get this custom retifier which cost you 100 /- bucks

It is a custom made unit. I made it myself. hence the low cost. If you do not have a background in electronics or are unwilling to make one, you are better off with the APE RR unit. Costs 600 bucks approx.

any idea where can i source this rectifier in mumbai (ape rr unit ) and mostly i need a single phase one am i right i have read your previous thread so the same rule goes for dc conversion in a pulsar 200

If you really want to do this, I suggest you post the wiring diagram of P200 from the manual. Would help us to guide you. And you would need to rewind your coil too.

Abhi his P200 is UG4 DC lighting I think, hence the batt discharge issue on using a 55W halo. We need to tackle the BCU for RR swap, else whats the use of upgrading the coil? We dont've the bloody thing in our bikes and everything was so striaght forward. If anything goes wrong, the BCU will refuse to take up. Right?

I totally agree with you. That is good idea I have ever known. Please keep up If you have any new idea. Yaaaaa

Yeah that is another issue. What if we use a relay after the BCU? Will the BCU think that the bulb has fused? (as relay will draw very little current)

If yes, then keep stock 35W bulb after BCU. Add the relay too, now add another 35W bulb after the relay. This will keep BCU happy too. And we get two 35W lights. Somewhat similar to rahuldevnath's twin HID implementation. What say?

Abhijeet any gr8 ideas to disable or bypass or fool the load sensing of the BCU?
Is the APE RR supposed to replace the stock RR?

Am not sure that it will trip the power if its not sensing the specified load. Try out and see thats all I can say. AFAIK, BCU will cut the power when load exceeds specific load than the batt can handle to make it safe for the batt not getting fully depleted.

For laxury cars installing HID, need to have one more accessory like warning cancellor to fool the ECU in the car as the HID control box is taking the power from the stock holders to power the relays only resulting ECU will calculate the load assumes that bulb is blown and starts warning and false alarm. Same case is here, if the BCU is sensitive to the lower load too, it will take it as blown bulb case and it'll automatically switch to the other beam and there also no specified load, so end up with no light. I dont know how it works but there should be a by pass for this like cars. Hope someone have already done it.

Here's the warning cancellor for cars for HID


Nice, simple solution for higher watt He's not riding a R15 to fix two lamps at time, or need to have another aux lamp to do this.