What I have said should work. The stock 35W h/l will keep BCU happy. Another light will be thru relay. The relay will be connected to batt. The signals for the relay will be thru BCU o/p. This is a very small load for the BCU. So, everyone should be happy. Only catch is that you need one 35W h/l to keep BCU happy. Relay can then drive any loads. Ideal if you want to fix extra light on crashguards etc. Not good if you want a stock light replacement.

APE RR unit will work if you want to convert the bike to full DC after rewinding.

Edit - the load to the BCU need not be stock 35W only. Something less like 5w may work too. Need to verify this. If this works, problem solved. Actually if I had a Pulsar with BCU, this prob would have surely been solved!

P200 is not UG4, and all 200s have AC headlight. The battery discharge issue has to be something else.


I think I will confirm this.. BCU will be fine with even .05W load. And a 12V Relay works perfectly. Secondly in 150/180/200 BCU load is not an issue at all. It's only in 220 that the BCU changeovers to other bulb, in case one is fused.

Confirmed on both 180UG3 and 220 Dtsi.

So need not break head over 2 lights. Just a HID in the dome.

Infact, I had HID on P180UG3, and the idea of all those custom rectifier was tested on it only. Both 180UG3 and 200 have same 35W AC headlight.

p200 has an ac 35w headlight just like 150/180UG3

have tried an hid kit before 35w connected direct to battery did'nt put through the BCU because asked 3 mechanics and said the sensor will not able to take the load so put it through an extra switch worked fine for 2/3 days then horn bcame sluggish digi console light became dim then the bike could'nt start through selfstart had abad experience with HID

so thats why i thought of using avy 180 coil and upgrade to a 55w

mostly i will do this mod and see how it turns out
i wanted to know basically i put the avy coil my ouput increases but does my battery charging rate increases

i also wanted to know the purpose of a rectifier (correct me if am wrong)
it converts ac current to dc current and stores it in the battery basically charging it and also provides dc current to the headlight which is flicker free

when the bikes at hault battery energy is consumed but when the bike is running it takes current from the rectifier or battery )wanted to know )

does a p200 have a rectifier or inverter

please enlighten me with the Electricals of my bike p200.

@HUSTLA13

The charging system is of 2 parts. The AC part feeds mainly the headlight. The other DC part feeds mots of the electrical components thru the battery.

The avy coil only boosts the AC part, so battery current is the same.

The RR unit regulates both the AC and DC part to approx 12V. Else it can reach upto 100V at higher rpms. The DC part nees a rectifier too to convert the AC from the coil to DC. The rectifier is built in the RR unit.

If you have any doubts, ask it here!

wow wow ow,so much i missed in just a few days,to hell with my emergency night shifts!!!!.

after goin through upto this much,i have one simple suggestion.mechines are here to help us,correct?what if its not helping?what i mean to say here ,if the iq of 220s bcu is higher then 200s bcu,then we can simply bypass the bcu.of course its not applicable under warrenty.

haha,thank u my friend for ur kind words,.
one more guru,who ?me?na na,its u and abhi who helped me to do my mod,otherwise i was crying like a poor soul in the cruel world of magneto derived puny headlight power!!

If you bypass the BCU, you lose the back-lit switches. You will need your own switches for h/l ON/OFF and high/low beam.

Ya bypassing the BCU is a tad too complicated in the UG3,3 and the 200s as everything goes through the BCU.Bypassing it will mean goin back to UG2 wiring with UG2 switches and UG2 Speedometer console.

So first part is ruled out as its got a AC lighting, now everything is smooth I think if the B(E)CU is not going to interfere. Try an Avy coil or rewind the thing and go for a 55W halo, it should work. I hope we can fool the ECU with the coil swap instead of RR swap. For a higher watt halo coil change is enough no need of RR change, I was on the same for 2-3 years

U got two days with an HID? Means u didnt run for not more than 20mins i think, normally, it will give u 30 min backup from an avg batt. U cant use an HID for long until u change the charging rate, and thats why I end up to APE RR swap. Its fine with my bike as I was lucky that I dont have that smart thing on my bike, so I can play around with all the options available.

So for a trial u can try with a leased coil from your mech But I would suggest a rewounded coil as it can handle a load of even a 90/100W halo. and an OEM is not better than a rewounded coil in case of a Pulsar, just like an amature workmanship only

I think Abhi's given a nice explanation to this, and what u xplained is correct too. Without a rectifier no batt wont go beyond one cycle as there's no charging got it?. Its called RR unit to do the job, Regulator Rectifier unit. I hope its clear now.

Abhi, "E"CU is only on Pulsars? I think that part I should say a Hats off to Rajiv Bajaj for giving full value for money product, where no bike is equiped with contact less switches so far and many more new items like self indicator cancellors, side stand warnings (a pain to keep the magnet keep in tact though), tubeless tyres, projector headlamp with a nice and snapy high beam a big shame for all others and mainly, leaving enough room for rewinding the coil etc.

I think Bajaj should consider other steeds also on electrical parts even at a higher cost, different variants like we used to get cars with PS, PW etc. Earlier Pulsars had the option of having faired or non faired, KS or ES etc. I think better light means better saftey so as a matter of fact it should be considered. Each year they r stuffing more and more goodies on this bikes which I've dreamed of and I feel realy jealous of the new owners. I puffed of nearly 60K when I bought my Dtsi, now with that I can get a most sophisticated Pulsar what a Pity P220 is costing around 72K and ZMR is 90K and even R15 is nearly 100K and none of these are offering these types of hifi thingies, admitting that there offering better stability and ride pleasure than our beloved Pulsar Hamara Bajaj always stands for VFM concept

This may be OT:

In a 220 the BCU has a problem with lower load as well. Ex: U put LED's in pilot lamps. Now with lights on crank. The console's lights alongwith pilot lights goes off and takes time to come back. The BCU here is testing for sometime where the load has gone. When it cant find anything it gives back the supply.


Simplest setup would be shift to Avenger coil and go for 55W Nightbreaker. A friend had done that. Works pretty good. Only drawback is that it dims at lower revs.

Battery discharged because, the power going to the H/L was wasted. And battery was not getting enough charge.

To increase your HL output there are basically two simple ways:

(1) Just get an Avenger 180 Coil, and plonk a 55W bulb.

(2) Install HID, get a APE RR Unit, or a custom rectifier and make your bike full DC.

First decide what do you want to do?

Are you sure, it's because of LEDs? In my DTSi, in stock condition while cranking the console light, pilots go off for a second. And in UG3, the light would only come after say 2 seconds of bike getting started.

Yup!
Strange thing is this started after i changed the LED's. Previously i used to use normal LED's. Bought at an accessory store. After fiddling with it came to know that its a normal LED with a resistor soldered at +ve terminal and kept in a holder.
Later on shifted to some brighter LED's. After fiddling found that its a Surface Mount LED with a resistor at +ve terminal inside a holder.
The console light takes time to come back to life with surface leds. With normal ones comes back to life in a second or so.

I am really thinking of the good old Pulsars not having this hi funda thing BCU

I was in the same Dilemma but only difference is I was thinking of Doing DC for 55/60W halogen or 90/100W on AC

I took the cheaper way & Spent 1.5k approx for Coil rewinding & Philips Rally vision 90/100W with Autopol reflector & I don't regret my choice..

I sw d HID thing what's on shree's bike ( not xactly shree's but a common freind of our's who has the same thing fitted in his zma) & I am not at all Impressed..

Its just that you can't use it as you like as U r a cop magnet.. 90/100W is much much better.