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Hid projector help....

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  • pavanchirmade
    replied
    Will the non clear lens one help?

    Or the flap at the top like this?


    Set the beam throw a bit lower so that the glare is less. Projector installation is not at all a costly affair as we have Kurla-CST road.

    Leave a comment:


  • NANOtechnology
    replied
    Originally posted by steelbreeze View Post
    Just wanted to bump this thread.

    I have a RE Classic 500 and am using a Bi-Xenon 35W 4300k HID bought from Navnish, with it. No issues with the HID whatsoever. As I am using the HID with the stock reflector, the only complain that I have is the glare. I don't like it when people kind of curse me when they can't bear the glare.

    Just finished reading this thread and correct me if I am wrong.
    1. Using HID with stock reflectors is a bad idea.
    2. H4 Bi-Xenon bulbs cannot be used in projectors.

    Well, while going through the thread, I read about Seal Beams. I guess the stock reflectors on my bull are Seal Beam type as well(Glass reflector). Will post a pic so that you guys can confirm.

    Now, going for a projector setup is going to be a costly affair for me as I already have a HID setup. So, do you guys have any other suggestion that I could try out?

    Correct me if I am wrong, I cannot use a projector with the glass on my stock reflector because it is not clear right?
    As you have a bi-xenon bulb, it has an H4 base which isn't suitable for any projector..
    The Amby seal-beam is almost exactly same as your current headlight, so again even if you do buy that and install, there would be hardly any difference in glares as well as output.

    You can do 1 thing, install an Amby seal-beam on your crash-guard with hid in that, the seambeam would cost you roughly 200 bucks, and keep your stock bulb in your stock headlamp, so you can use HID only when you really need it as an aux.

    Or you can install a projector in your current headlight using a different base bulb, but the same ballast.
    You can thus save money.

    But as you ride the Bull, i guess projectors won't suit its personality.
    However you can still install that projector or a new seal-beam on the crash-guard and use it whenever its required.

    Leave a comment:


  • sandeepcf
    replied
    GUYS whats this APE RR unit
    is it the Piaggio ape Rectifier ?
    how much will it cost ?
    yes it is the Regulator Rectifier Unit of "APPI" auto(as pronounced in A.P).
    If they don't understand the term RR ask them for Charger.
    MRP shows some 900+ but costs rs1302 according to their computer.
    same situation in Guntur as well as Vijayawada.
    For rewinding job go for shops who rewinds "APPI" auto's stator.

    Leave a comment:


  • hunkofgals
    replied
    GUYS whats this APE RR unit
    is it the Piaggio ape Rectifier ?
    how much will it cost ?
    Last edited by hunkofgals; 10-02-2011, 10:50 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • steelbreeze
    replied
    Just wanted to bump this thread.

    I have a RE Classic 500 and am using a Bi-Xenon 35W 4300k HID bought from Navnish, with it. No issues with the HID whatsoever. As I am using the HID with the stock reflector, the only complain that I have is the glare. I don't like it when people kind of curse me when they can't bear the glare.

    Just finished reading this thread and correct me if I am wrong.
    1. Using HID with stock reflectors is a bad idea.
    2. H4 Bi-Xenon bulbs cannot be used in projectors.

    Well, while going through the thread, I read about Seal Beams. I guess the stock reflectors on my bull are Seal Beam type as well(Glass reflector). Will post a pic so that you guys can confirm.

    Now, going for a projector setup is going to be a costly affair for me as I already have a HID setup. So, do you guys have any other suggestion that I could try out?

    Correct me if I am wrong, I cannot use a projector with the glass on my stock reflector because it is not clear right?

    Leave a comment:


  • NANOtechnology
    replied
    Good to hear that it helped.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sharkbite
    replied
    Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post
    First things first.
    your mech has converted the bike to FULL DC ??
    all he's done is routed the headlight wire to the battery, that's it.
    On a scene it does make it full DC, but its FULL DC ONLY TO POWER UP THE HORN AND BRAKE LIGHT.....

    I've posted this here in the same thread and 20 of other threads 100's of time, and i say it again.

    Your coil is a 7 pole coil, in which 4 are meant for headlight (in AC), and remaining 3 are meant for battery charging.

    so these remaining 3 poles are powering your horn and brake light by stock, but you are using these 3 poles to power an HID TOO !!!

    So what you need to do is, go to a coil guy, ask him to remove the copper wire across all the poles, and wind it with 1 single wire across EVERY POLE and route the output to
    APE RR.

    Then even after 20 years, your bike's battery will be amazingly charged.

    You need to feed all the 7 or 8 poles to the charging system, and not use just 3 or 4 like it is in stock.

    This is proper DC conversion.



    1

    Its not that my friend, if the connection between the battery and hid is falling short, the HID will not light at all, or will blow away instantly.
    read the above quote's answer of mine.

    2

    your right, but not completely.
    It doesn't take 5 minutes for HID to attain full intensity, it takes 20 secs.
    if your battery is getting amazingly DRAINED, only then the HID almost never attains full brightness.

    I hope this helped !!
    Thank you for the clarification and feedback, wise one! I shall get the required modifications done ASAP. I really hadn't gone through the entire thread so i did miss out on the theory behind the coils.

    Leave a comment:


  • NANOtechnology
    replied
    Originally posted by Sharkbite View Post
    Greetings!

    I recently got a single Xenon HID installed on my bike, a Yamaha Gladiator and i've been having problems with it. The very first time i checked for the intensity of the HID, it worked fine and i was happy with it. But nowadays when i switch to high beam(Xenon), the light just flickers for a while and then doesn't glow at all. The low beam(halogen) seems to have a mind of it's own, sometimes glowing and sometimes not. (The mechanic who carried out the fitment converted the electricals to DC.) I've begun to feel like reverting to the old Halogen but i don't want this investment to go waste. I haven't got the coil rewinded. Is that the problem? I also got a brand new Amaron 5Ah battery installed just a few days after getting the HID. Please help!
    First things first.
    your mech has converted the bike to FULL DC ??
    all he's done is routed the headlight wire to the battery, that's it.
    On a scene it does make it full DC, but its FULL DC ONLY TO POWER UP THE HORN AND BRAKE LIGHT.....

    I've posted this here in the same thread and 20 of other threads 100's of time, and i say it again.

    Your coil is a 7 pole coil, in which 4 are meant for headlight (in AC), and remaining 3 are meant for battery charging.

    so these remaining 3 poles are powering your horn and brake light by stock, but you are using these 3 poles to power an HID TOO !!!

    So what you need to do is, go to a coil guy, ask him to remove the copper wire across all the poles, and wind it with 1 single wire across EVERY POLE and route the output to
    APE RR.

    Then even after 20 years, your bike's battery will be amazingly charged.

    You need to feed all the 7 or 8 poles to the charging system, and not use just 3 or 4 like it is in stock.

    This is proper DC conversion.

    Originally posted by Eshan-P180 View Post
    Two things i can associate with your problem......
    1) The connection between the HID and battery is falling short or loose and thats where it aint getting full power or getting DC in between....
    2) HID takes time to charge up...if you switch them on say at 8.00pm sharp they wont provide full light like halogens do....you will get full light around 8.05pm....at 8.05 the HID should give you 100% powerful light.....this is how HID's work.....
    Check for your battery drain too....HID's eat up lots of power!
    1

    Its not that my friend, if the connection between the battery and hid is falling short, the HID will not light at all, or will blow away instantly.
    read the above quote's answer of mine.

    2

    your right, but not completely.
    It doesn't take 5 minutes for HID to attain full intensity, it takes 20 secs.
    if your battery is getting amazingly DRAINED, only then the HID almost never attains full brightness.

    I hope this helped !!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sharkbite
    replied
    Originally posted by Eshan-P180 View Post
    I think you should get it done ASAP before it spoils your battery and other electrical items....
    Also check with the time consumption for full charge...try it today or the rest week...if same problem persist..you have the weekend for the electrical stuff!!!!
    Will do. Thanks for your feedback!

    Leave a comment:


  • Eshan-P180
    replied
    Originally posted by Sharkbite View Post
    Your second point is true. The very first time i took the bike out in the evening after the fitment, to get a feel of the light, it did take some time to shine at full power. But, that was the only time the light shone and after that, the problems cropped up. My riding is 90% during daytime and sometimes just to check for its functioning, i've ridden behind cars with the light ON just to see the reflection of the glowing headlight on the cars. But they don't glow after the initial flicker. I think i should wait for a longer while after switching the light on.

    As for your second point, should i get the electricals checked by an auto electrician? And is coil rewinding necessary? As much as i know, coil rewinding is done to compensate and balance out the excess power consumed by HID's from the stock electrical setting isn't it? How can i get my battery drain checked and know if something is wrong or not?
    I think you should get it done ASAP before it spoils your battery and other electrical items....
    Also check with the time consumption for full charge...try it today or the rest week...if same problem persist..you have the weekend for the electrical stuff!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sharkbite
    replied
    Originally posted by Eshan-P180 View Post
    Two things i can associate with your problem......
    1) The connection between the HID and battery is falling short or loose and thats where it aint getting full power or getting DC in between....
    2) HID takes time to charge up...if you switch them on say at 8.00pm sharp they wont provide full light like halogens do....you will get full light around 8.05pm....at 8.05 the HID should give you 100% powerful light.....this is how HID's work.....
    Check for your battery drain too....HID's eat up lots of power!
    Your second point is true. The very first time i took the bike out in the evening after the fitment, to get a feel of the light, it did take some time to shine at full power. But, that was the only time the light shone and after that, the problems cropped up. My riding is 90% during daytime and sometimes just to check for its functioning, i've ridden behind cars with the light ON just to see the reflection of the glowing headlight on the cars. But they don't glow after the initial flicker. I think i should wait for a longer while after switching the light on.

    As for your second point, should i get the electricals checked by an auto electrician? And is coil rewinding necessary? As much as i know, coil rewinding is done to compensate and balance out the excess power consumed by HID's from the stock electrical setting isn't it? How can i get my battery drain checked and know if something is wrong or not?

    Leave a comment:


  • Eshan-P180
    replied
    Originally posted by Sharkbite View Post
    Greetings!

    I recently got a single Xenon HID installed on my bike, a Yamaha Gladiator and i've been having problems with it. The very first time i checked for the intensity of the HID, it worked fine and i was happy with it. But nowadays when i switch to high beam(Xenon), the light just flickers for a while and then doesn't glow at all. The low beam(halogen) seems to have a mind of it's own, sometimes glowing and sometimes not. (The mechanic who carried out the fitment converted the electricals to DC.) I've begun to feel like reverting to the old Halogen but i don't want this investment to go waste. I haven't got the coil rewinded. Is that the problem? I also got a brand new Amaron 5Ah battery installed just a few days after getting the HID. Please help!
    Two things i can associate with your problem......
    1) The connection between the HID and battery is falling short or loose and thats where it aint getting full power or getting DC in between....
    2) HID takes time to charge up...if you switch them on say at 8.00pm sharp they wont provide full light like halogens do....you will get full light around 8.05pm....at 8.05 the HID should give you 100% powerful light.....this is how HID's work.....
    Check for your battery drain too....HID's eat up lots of power!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sharkbite
    replied
    Greetings!

    I recently got a single Xenon HID installed on my bike, a Yamaha Gladiator and i've been having problems with it. The very first time i checked for the intensity of the HID, it worked fine and i was happy with it. But nowadays when i switch to high beam(Xenon), the light just flickers for a while and then doesn't glow at all. The low beam(halogen) seems to have a mind of it's own, sometimes glowing and sometimes not. (The mechanic who carried out the fitment converted the electricals to DC.) I've begun to feel like reverting to the old Halogen but i don't want this investment to go waste. I haven't got the coil rewinded. Is that the problem? I also got a brand new Amaron 5Ah battery installed just a few days after getting the HID. Please help!

    Leave a comment:


  • aditaya.chopra
    replied
    Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
    If its with HIDs ON, it means charging system is fine.

    Just check once more that the voltage does not decrease at 3k rpm. Keep the bike at 3k for atleast 2mins or so and see what happens to the voltage in those 2 mins.
    ok will get checked in evening

    Leave a comment:


  • abhijeet080808
    replied
    If its with HIDs ON, it means charging system is fine.

    Just check once more that the voltage does not decrease at 3k rpm. Keep the bike at 3k for atleast 2mins or so and see what happens to the voltage in those 2 mins.

    Leave a comment:

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