Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

Activa 2013 HET Battery dies within 2-3 days, if not started and run daily. 6 month old Amaron battery.

After this interval, it also requires choke for starting and warm-up.
[MENTION=16602]s1d[/MENTION], awaiting your expert opinion.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

i am no expert lol.
have you added any extra accessories (horns, lights etc.. ) / wiring ??

for the battery, do get it tested at a local battery shop/mechanic or if you have a multi-meter you can run some basic tests.
with the scooter ignition off, the voltage should read around 12.7~13V approx for a normal fully charged battery. Anything lower than 12.3 V might indicate a battery that is not fully charged. so maybe charge the battery up at a local battery shop, and then run the next couple of tests.

next start the scooter and check the voltage at idle.. usually the voltage should go up by approx 0.3-0.5V (vs the reading taken when ignition is off).
then rev the engine up to around 4000rpm (around 1/4th-1/2 of the throttle) and hold.. check the voltage, it should rise by approx 1.2V.
If the voltage isn't rising up (or increasing too much) with the engine fired up then there could be a problem with the RR (regulator-rectifier unit) or the stator coil. You could swap the rr unit with a known good unit to check if possible. As for the coil, it is possible to check it too with a multimeter but i'd leave that to your mechanic to check.

if these readings check out, then you can also get the battery load tested at a local battery shop or svc where they usually have a battery tester. it is not common for a battery to fail so early but rare cases could happen.

as for the cold start, it is ok during cold early morning starts to require a choke.. but if every cold start during the day is requiring the choke and multiple start attempts, then i'd suggest you getting the valve clearances (tappet adjustment) checked. an inlet valve with less to nil clearance will cause cold starting issues. easy way to know if the clearance is too tight, is by gently trying to use the kick starter to crank the engine.. you should feel a slight resistance as you use the kick starter which indicates the engine is developing good compression.. if there is hardly any resistance then the valves aren't closing fully causing a leak in compression and hence the starting issue. contrary to what some people think, the valve clearances in many cases get tighter on these bikes/scooters which cause starting issues and poor performance.

for now.. try these and let us know. and then we'll see what else needs to be checked based on your findings.

Re: Honda Dio, Activa and Aviator

LED Projector installation step by step process.

Hello Everyone,
I own a Hero Maestro and have completed about 36,000 km till date. The scooter has been really taken care of. The oil has always been replaced at 1500km intervals, yet a few days ago my engine seized up. I still don't know what was the culprit behind the engine seizure(guessing it to be a failed oil pump or gasket material blockage in the oil galleries). The oil level was between the max and the minimum marks when the engine seized. I have decided to fix this engine on my own as I don't think any mechanic will be able to give as much love and care as I can do. So I have a few questions for the respective owners here:-

1. I have decided to replace the following parts once I open up the engine-
a. Bore/Piston kit
b. Oil Pump
c. Timing Chain/Gear
d. Valve Seals
e. Exhaust Rocker Arm(needle bearings have some very minor marks)
f. Crankshaft(if it has failed too)
g. Valve Cover Gasket(old one was anyways leaking)
h. Secondary Air Filter(It has swollen up from being washed by petrol)
i. Valve Cover Oil seals

Are these all or I should be looking for something more?

2. Also I don't really want to go with the lathe option, I would rather replace everything for complete peace of mind, so should I be going with Hero's genuine bore/piston kit or Goetze kit will do? Also, I'm confused if I should buy Activa's Bore/Piston kit since the engine is almost identical to that of Activa(Although it does makes a bit more power and torque than Activa)

3. Is torque wrench really a necessity for this build? I've never seen any mechanic using a torque wrench on these engines and hence the confusion. Also, I'm currently on a budget so torque wrench might be a bit of a stretch for me.

4. I have found the service manual from Honda for Activa. I guess it should be applicable to Maestro as well.

5. Also can someone suggest to me the best way to clean everything? Will gasoline do or I will have to get something else? I know gasoline is not compatible with rubber seals and o rings and will be taking special care of that.

And here are some pictures of the Engine:-






Thank You,
Abhishek.

Has anyone used NMW big bore kit(55mm) for activa? Kindly guide me what are the other components to be changed if i am converting to bigbore. Also is it possible to make the gearing little more taller like that of suzuki access?
Also anyone tried installing activa 6g telescopic fork in older activa? Hope it would be a direct fit.

can't say for sure without inspecting the parts. you can clean the parts with petrol, no issues. torque wrench, meh..if you can use your common sense/experience.. otherwise let the professionals handle it. use original parts if available for peace of mind. a new bore kit from hero is around Rs.2500.

you missed listing the valves. make sure the valve-train related parts such as valves/valve oil seal (these usually come as a single kit), valve guides (if required) are replaced.. the valve springs will usually not need replacement. and the new valves have to be ground to make sure they are seating and sealing properly.. this work usually a lathe shop can help you.. i got my valves replaced/ground at a lathe workshop.

Last week, I finally had some engine work done on my 14yr old Dio that has crossed 85k km... Over the past year it had a bit of cold start issues, and setting the valve clearance used to fix it, only to repeat again in a couple of months.. the clearances got tighter leading to a loss of compression and in turn cold starting trouble.. It finally came down to not at all idling and i then decided to go ahead and replace the valves. The intake valve was worn out leading to poor sealing resulting in poor compression. The valve guides, oil seals and the block piston were intact and no oil consumption was observed. the valves were relatively 'clean' due to my timely oil changes (as i have always said any decent brand is good as long as you change the oil every 3k km approx)
So went ahead with a new valve kit (Valves + oil seals), new head gasket.. and along with that changed the engine foundation bushes and cleaned the piston top of some carbon deposits. All original parts used. Old Intake valve on right, exhaust on left.
after the valve job, the performance is back to the normal peppy nature of the dio.. zips around effortlessly once again.

Hi am facing a weird problem with my 2011 aviator,had installed a new battery in 2020 nov , battery started giving issues today got that replaced, mechanic says that due to self issue battery was being used more and hence the battery issue but my doubt won't it get recharged while running,
another problem is light is too low but if I press horn or turn indicator the headlight turns bright (when horn is pressed or indicator turns on (usually when indicator is turned on the light dims a bit but it's opposite happening ) due to which the bulb is too dim and unable to ride at night.
Any help would be appreciated for the 2 problems
Thanks