Can you swap the battery with a good one from another bike and check the voltages again.

Went to a battery shop yesterday, they said the battery has become slightly weak.

Today morning I checked the battery voltage, it showed around 11.9V. Then started the bike and increased RPM to around 7000, then the voltage started slowly increasing and started fluctuating between 12.8V to 13.4V. It never crossed 13.4V.
And also today once during cranking the console switched off and showed some JG error code for a few seconds and the console came back on automatically and bike started like normal.

So what does this mean that I have to replace stator aswell along with the battery?

Check your battery, check the charging voltage at the battery terminals and check the voltage reading 13.5 to 15 volts at the terminal at a steady 5000 RPM, if it's anymore or lesser than 13, it's time to replace the stator.

a. without starting the bike - should be around 12.6 V
b. At around 5000 rpm - approx 14.4 V

There is no set number of km between adjustments. Check the slack every 1000km and adjust if required (which in most cases is not required if the chain is cleaned/lubed every 700km). A slightly loose chain is fine, but make sure the slack isn't too less (which a lot of mechanics tend to do). And remember that once you sit on the bike the chain 'tightens' up due to the load.
In my case i rarely have to get the chain adjusted, which is mostly during a routine service once in 6 months. I am still on the stock chain+rear sprocket at 33k km.. the front sprocket alone was replaced at around 28k km (Pulsar 220 front sprocket).

How frequent do we need to tighten chain?
I had not tightened chain for 3k kms..
Any problem running on slightly loose chain?

I have found the usd to be (for a lack of better words) more rigid, less twitching and better front end feel especially on braking hard. USD forks are usually beefier (i.e. thicker) and help with better stability. But say even when compared to a bike with beefier regular forks like the fz series or a P220, i've found the usd setup on the ktm much better when it comes to suspension feel, feedback and control.

The only down-side being it is a pain when the seals go bust, which happens say around once a year considering our dusty environment. You could minimize this by using a full fork gaitor (the rubber boot that goes over the forks) and periodically cleaning out the dust boot/dust & oil seal using the ktm fork doctor tool which again you have to insist at the svc, or get the tool yourself and do the cleaning periodically.




The plastic protectors on the front fork that came in later models do little to prevent the seal going bust. I am someone who has had them installed, but have had to replace the seals (right side once under warranty, and then recently both sides by paying for it.) twice in 3.5 yrs. A better option would be to install full fork gaitors.
We should first understand what causes the seal to leak, because it is not always a 'failed' (i.e. torn seal)
the fork system on the ktm's come with three 'seals':
- the dust boot which is what you see on the outside, which can be slid down with your hand , this was included in later models in India (i think late 2013 onwards). I don't think the EU export models get this bit.
- the dust seal, which sits under the dust boot
- the actual fork oil seal which sits behind the dust seal. There is a circlip that holds the oil seal in place (located between the dust seal and oil seal)

The a couple reasons why a leak occurs: The primary cause being trapped dust particles.
- trapped dust particles prevent the oil seal from sealing properly, this can be fixed by cleaning them out with the fork seal cleaning tool (or similar diy methods.. google it). A seal replacement might not be required.
- sometimes these dust particles might end up causing a tear in the oil seal, and in such a case no amount of cleaning will arrest the leak. A seal replacement is the only way out. so, at first you could try and clean them out to see if it fixes the issue before going in for replacement.
- Or the worse thing that can happen is a fork tube with scratches/pitting/rust.. this will end up tearing the seal, no matter how many times you keep replacing the seals. The way out is to replace the fork tubes.

So to minimize the chance of a fork oil leak, keep the fork tubes clean (preferably wipe with a wet cloth) and clean out the seals say once in three months, add a full fork gaitor or something like an additional diy neoprene fork protector from one Mr.Dhaval (search on youtube) And don't overfill oil in the forks, usually 440ml is sufficient (recommended in 450ml, but i've seen them dump in the entire 480ml)

My ODO has crossed 30000kms. Bike model is 2016 and purchased in July 2016.

06nos of servicings done till date; last service at 26310kms.

Following components replaced till now:

1. Air filter change at second service. (ASC claims the filter seems clean enough at sixth service, will get it replaced irrespective of cleanliness condition at next service)
2. Front disc pad change at 15461kms (Fourth service).
3. Spark plug change at 15461kms (Fourth service).
4. Fuel filter change at 16700kms.
5. Chain Sprocket set change at 17496kms.
6. Front and Rear tyre change at 28477kms.

I have never carried out the following:

1. Coolant change
2. Throttle body cleaning
3. Fork seal change
4. Fork oil change
5. Valve clearance check
6. Disc brake oil line bleeding
7. Disc brake oil change
8. Accelerator and Gearbox cable change
9. And Maybe more, please point it out in your reply and do not assume that it may have been done (except engine oil and oil filter change )

Present issues with the bike:

1. Some buzzing sound from near the console when the engine vibrations are high like at high RPM in low gears and when going over a bad patch of road. Not sure how to resolve it.
2. My gear shifter link does not grip the splines on the gear shifter shaft. Bolt is fully tight and the lever just slides off the splines if I pull it out with normal force. Presently the link is just secured on the shaft with a cable tie.
   I will be changing the entire assembly.
3. Sometimes I get the low battery alarm, if I ride in 1st gear stop-go traffic for 10mins or so. It goes once the revs go up. So does that mean that the stator/alternator is fine and I only have to replace the battery?

Thanks!

Check your battery, check the charging voltage at the battery terminals and check the voltage reading 13.5 to 15 volts at the terminal at a steady 5000 RPM, if it's anymore or lesser than 13, it's time to replace the stator.

Bottomline; get that throttle body cleaned for a more lively feel, importantly get your battery charging voltage checked.

Present issues with the bike:

1. Some buzzing sound from near the console when the engine vibrations are high like at high RPM in low gears and when going over a bad patch of road. Not sure how to resolve it.
2. My gear shifter link does not grip the splines on the gear shifter shaft. Bolt is fully tight and the lever just slides off the splines if I pull it out with normal force. Presently the link is just secured on the shaft with a cable tie.
   I will be changing the entire assembly.
3. Sometimes I get the low battery alarm, if I ride in 1st gear stop-go traffic for 10mins or so. It goes once the revs go up. So does that mean that the stator/alternator is fine and I only have to replace the battery?

Thanks!

Guys, What is the cost of fork bend removal for ktm duke 200?
If anybody has done it, please let me know ASAP about recent price.
TIA

S1d, Nice explanation.
But one more thing, can you explain in picture what is dust seal and dust boot?