Thanks for the prompt reply. I really appreciate it.

I check the connections. Took me quite a while to dig in and check. I found wiring to be firmly attached. No breakage or corrosion at the connectors or otherwise. One more thing I noticed - when I started the bike in the morning, I attached a multimeter to the battery. It measured close to 12.8V. I put in the key, started it and let it idle for a while. When I twist the accelerator to about 5000-6000 RPM, the battery voltage dropped close to 10v. It starts to climb up after idling a while and settled to 14.1 to 14.2v. After a few minute or so of idling the engine, when I did this again, the voltage remained to be at 14.1v and did not dip when I blipped over 8000 rpm. So I went out, stopped for while at a shop nearby and as soon as I started it and began to move, bike stalled and console rebooted. Didn't happen again till I reached my office.

Does the Rectifier fire up only after a while of starting or maybe at/after certain time and rpm?
I feel I too should check the Stator which seems simple. I don't know how to check the rectifier/regulator however. As stated before, battery is brand new.

I've got other bikes and only ride the Duke 2-3 days a week; specially now since I am not that confident of the electrical system anymore and don't want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere.

To add to what Kiran has already mentioned, and considering the age of your motorcycle 2016, I'd strongly recommend you to inspect your motorcycle charging system i.e. the stator coil and the rectifier. The rectifier works almost the moment you start the bike and till you stop the bike. When I read your voltage readings above, especially at 6k plus RPM, the voltage should increase proportionate to the RPM and hold steady at a voltage reading with +- a couple of Mv fluctuation. Considering the 10v reading at that high RPM, the battery is providing the current to the electricals while not being charged up or is being charged intermittently hence the random stall. Some bikes throw up a low voltage sign coupled with a JG warning sign for a low battery, some bikes give up on the road just like that.

It's about time a faulty charging system will drain a new battery and eventually lead to more trouble. Get it inspected at your SVC for a thorough diagnoses.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks for pointing in the right direction. I appreciate your help.

We had a similar though and had a lot of fun yesterday. I brought home my friend's bike and tried the same on it. Its behaving the same as mine. When I started and blipped it after warming up, the battery voltage dropped too but not as low as mine.

We checked the stator on my bike and his. There is no short to ground. Resistance is around 1 ohm on the terminals on both the bikes.
We exchanged the batteries and now his bike dipped to around 10-11v. But after a bit of idling, it started to climb up just like mine did. My bike (with his battery) however ran fine. Voltage dip was similar to the other bike. I sent the battery for charging today.

Our deduction - While the battery is new, it needs charging. Battery in Dukes work like reservoir and assist the rectifier in providing current when needed (pretty similar to capacitors). When engine is running on constant RPMs, it charges the battery again. Rectifier was pushing charge to a low battery while running the system. Since the battery was not holding enough charge, average system voltage came to low levels too. When taxed with spirited riding, more current need dropped the voltage even further leading the main relay to disengage.

When you increase the throttle and raise RPM a small part of AC component also is present across the battery. You can check this by keeping the Multimeter in AC range 200 volts and check.
Before buying and using new batteries check how old it is.ie., when it was manufactured and the time between manufacturing date and your use date. Batteries slowly sulfate and loose ability to charge over period of rest. A battery with more than 3 to 4 months in shelf is likely to become incapable of taking higher charge compared to one which is just a month of shelf life. For this same reason it is advised to start and run engine on idle or on the road for 10 minutes once in 4 days . If the Vehicle is to be parked for long time, then it is a good idea to remove the Battery and put it on battery Tender, or on a Trickle charge till use.
Good Luck.

finally changed the front brake pads on my 2014 d200 at close to 42k km.. so long was on the stock pads (which were 'swapped' under warranty with new ones at around 7k km, to rule out brake noise).. the stock pads still had 70% material left ! but the brake feel wasn't good and sometimes would emit a squeaking sound on braking, cleaning the rotor/pads with some soapy water or a sandpaper rub would result in the sound disappearing for a couple of weeks only to start again.
i decided to try the nikavi brake pads due to positive reviews from other friends who have used this brand on their bikes, i am NOT recommending or advocating people to use this non oem brand, do so at your own risk.. stick to oem if you want to play safe. Link to the nikavi pads (and no i dont make money if you buy thru this link). https://www.amazon.in/NIKAVI-Front-D.../dp/B08KZM4JD4

Supposed to be a sintered type.. could see some good amount "metal flakes" in the pad material.. and even the existing oem pads looked similar but with smaller and fewer such metal flakes. beyond this i cant say much about its composition by just looking at it. They even go to the extent of using the same part number as the EBC brakes (FA606HH) .Cost is almost same either oem or nikavi(paid some 280rs for nikavi).

anyway, went ahead and replaced them today. make sure you use a torx T27 bit to remove the brake pad retaining bolt, and not a similar sized regular hex allen to prevent rounding off the bolt. torx t30 will also fit but a bit 'tight' fit, but avoid regular hex allen. toolkit used taparia torx bits. while refitting use a very tiny dab of grease on the brake pad retaining bolt thread to prevent it from seizing/making removal next time easier. i had to use a bit of wd40 and some force to open it.. because the bolt seems to be steel and the caliper aluminium, it could rust/seize up. i rubbed the new brake pads a couple of times on some 320 grit sandpaper prior to installing them.

I had already bled the brakes and replaced the fluid a couple of days ago using TVS DOT 4 Fluid (90 bucks for a 250ml bottle, mrp 108).. but this did not improve the brake feel/bite. fluid being replaced after 3yrs. rear fluid had turned brown, while front fluid was still close to the original golden color, emptied out both the fluids and added new fluid+bleeding.


my initial feedback after the new nikavi pads is positive , back to how sharp the brakes felt when the bike was new, the bite and feel is great. hope they don't disappoint or chew the front rotor, though the front rotor is cheap, last time i checked around 900rs (cheaper than some other companies brake pads themselves) lol. I hope this Indian manufacturer doesn't disappoint as an aftermarket alternative. The pad dimensions and fit was perfect unlike certain other local brands (i've Seen on other bikes )

I hope this good performance continues, will update after a few months of using these new pads over a couple 1000kms ..
sorry couldnt take pics of the process.. but am sure plenty videos are available on the web detailing brake pad replacement. unable to upload the pics due to size limits. you can see the pics (old pads and the nikavi box, sorry dint click pic of the nikavi pads) at the below links:

Wow!!! 35K kms on one set of brake pads! Mine original KTM one does not last more than 10K kms! Probably for the fact that I'm a heavy barker.

Junkin Jumpers! 70% brake material left after seven years of riding, what stuff your brake pad material were made of, meteorite? And are those old brake pads in the image, they still shimmer like brand new with absolutely no brake dust and glaze whatsoever. Too good to be true, Stumped beyond words to say the least! Anyway, definitely your pads should be given to Bajaj for R&D.

Ride safe!

Cheers!
VJ

the brake pads were washed/cleaned with soapy water before taking the pictures, and put away in my parts bin.
bike has been ridden in the city for around 100km, bite is still sharp and no issues so far. the pads din't need any time to 'bed in'. will do some testing at higher speeds on the highways and some dirt roads to see if the brake feel/bite fades on continuous use.

Is there any solution to get rid of or prevent the rust/oxidation spots that form on the handlebar?

Rust on handlebars? I would suggest use Diesel and start scrubbing with Scotchbrite mildly and see if it helps, diesel a heavy oil not only removes but also lubricates the part being brushed off, start off with this.

Cheers!
VJ

My 2016 Duke 200 has run for 83500kms.

I'm getting low oil pressure for several weeks now. Oil level appears fine. Have to visit ASC.

But since yesterday I'm getting some tick sound (like a relay activating) when the bike is idling. The engine rev kind of hiccups for a moment when this tick sound comes. You can hear the recording here https://soundcloud.com/philip-abreu/engine . The hiccup and tick sound is at 3 second mark.

What is this hiccup and the sound?

Is this hiccup happening at certain start cases? Meaning, does it happen also during a a cold start? Check your oil pressure sensor switch if you have low oil pressure reading, it can perhaps be faulty, or sometimes it can be right, as oil starvation due to clogged lines is also a possibility. How old is the fuel in your motorcycle? Was it parked for long?

Cheers!
VJ

The hiccup was happening after bike had run for a few kms.

Couple of days back the ASC replaced the oil pressure sensor and the spark plug grommet. The grommet resolved the hiccup and the tick sound issue.

The idle stepper motor was also replaced before changing the grommet. After changing the stepper motor the RPM drop (hiccup) was not so noticeable but the tick sound had remained. Grommet solved the tick sound. Pressure sensor resolved the alarm.

A couple of weeks back I had replaced the spark plug, so maybe the grommet got damaged or something. I don't know what is the function of the grommet so I cannot logically reason if the tick sound was due to it or not.

I think the grommet cannot be at fault, it can perhaps be the spark plug wire itself is cracked or kinked that's leaking spark and grounding, hence the missing. Check and replace your entire spark plug coil wire from the ignition coil to the spark plug cap, and make sure the spark plug cap is tightened properly to the the wire, a loose, kinked, cracked spark plug wire will ground prematurely and cause missing as in your case. Get it checked.

Cheers!
VJ

I think the grommet cannot be at fault, it can perhaps be the spark plug wire itself is cracked or kinked that's leaking spark and grounding, hence the missing. Check and replace your entire spark plug coil wire from the ignition coil to the spark plug cap, and make sure the spark plug cap is tightened properly to the the wire, a loose, kinked, cracked spark plug wire will ground prematurely and cause missing as in your case. Get it checked.

Cheers!
VJ