Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Rebuild Update

Slowly but surely parts have started to arrive 1-by-1, the Head assembly came in yesterday to SVC straight from Pune! The whole shipping crate was kept under quarantine for 4 days before opening the individual parts boxes! Still waiting on Piston/Cylinder assembly to arrive, it's out of stock everywhere in the city, due to lockdown it'll take some and I totally understand!

This puppy came straight fresh out of the foundry, manufacturing date 29/Jun/2020. Latest MRP ₹5565!
This is the updated 2017+ head bearing the part no. JY511137 compared to older pre-2017 head part no. JY511067.

Notice the 1st image left side coolant channel in the head has 2 small splits vs 1 big split in older head. There are also 2 extra small channels right side above and below, this was missing in older one! Hoping it'll run much more cooler now and fan should kick-in later than before!

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

RLP has its own parameters. If you put the bike in a paddock and if the speedometer works, then either you have engine mounted speed sensor or rear wheel mounted speed sensor. If the vehicle's reading gets low or reads 0 when the front stationary, it means you have a front wheel mounted sensor.



Thank you Kiran. Seems KTM has been working with the heat management and, yes those are coolant orifices. The more the coolant orifices, the better the cooling efficiency. Keep us posted.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Hi guys,

I was hoping I could get some advise on my bike (RC 390, 2015).

Around 9-10 months ago, I was consistently getting the low oil pressure warning for ~3 months (I took it to the SVC twice, where both times they filled up the oil). Especially while riding longer distances, it would pop up. Soon, it would start appearing within 10 mins of riding itself.

So I took it to the SVC a third time, where he checked this issue, and said that there was white smoke (even though I couldn't see it) and that it could be some engine issue with the piston rings (not sure if he said rings, I don't know much at all about engine parts). I decided to get it checked out over the weekend. On the same Friday, I was travelling on a highway road, and there was a loud sound and the bike turned off while riding. I got the battery etc. checked so it seems like an engine seizure.

After this, due to this covid scenario etc. the bike has been lying unused for 6 months. I'm finally getting it repaired this month, from a reputed mechanic in Bangalore (KTM always seems to be shoddy and not skilled to work on this).

However, I've known friends with similar issues where a mechanic quotes ~30k and ends up giving a 60k bill. This has been my experience with many KTM centres across cities as well on all sorts of parts.

So I was hoping to be better educated on this before going. Considering an engine seizure, and that an engine is opened up rarely, I want to get everything done properly, so that it's as good as new. What are the parts that are normally changed? In such a scenario, is there a concept of a full, new engine?


Thanks!

Edit: 22k kms

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Your issues looks similar and 80-90% same as mine. Welcome to the club.
22k kms is too soon for needing a full engine rebuild. There is nothing like a new engine. But apart from the inner casings where Engine number is engraved you can pretty much replace everything you want with the engine making it like brand new!

Everything in the bottom end should be OK, I am not sure how much mechanically sound you are, so just don't go by whatever service center says, try verifying manually everything whatever they say needs to be changed and broken, if you dont know how to check, then please post pics here so anyone one of can help or take a friend who knows stuff.

1. Check for crank bearing play(try pulling and pushing on the crank rod up and down). If no play then no need for full rebuild. (99% this should case is my guess given the kms run). So it wont be 45-50K bill if you dont need this job.
2. Check the cylinder walls next, if no scoring(vertical lines) visible on them means you can just only check/change pistons next.
3. Check Piston sides for scoring, if no scroing then replace only the Piston rings, if you see scoring then change only the Pistion
4. Change everything else the top head - 4 valves, valve lapping, valve oil seals, timing chain, both chain guides, Camshaft and Cam rod(optional based on wear)
5. Changing clutch friction plates would be good if you changing everything in the head and pistons.
6. While you are at it changing Coolant Water pump seals would be good as a preventive measure.

Costs expetced before you get into the job. Perpare your wallet
1. Full Rebuild = 40-45K
2. Only Cylinder/Piston block and Head work = 30-35K
3. Only Piston and Head work = 25-30K
4. Only Piston rings and Head work = 15K-18K
5. Head work only = 8-10K

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Rebuild Update


Finally I was able source last major part and most expensive part the Cylinder/Piston assembly, had to run around place to place through almost half of the city and had to make 20+ calls and pay in-advance to source the part.

This is the updated Cylinder Piston block straight from the 2020 390, Part No. 36JP0031


The full Head work has been completed and Head has been assembled. New Valves and it's lapping done, Valve clearances checked and Shims replaced according, new Valve oil stem seals, new Intake and Exhaust Cams assembled, new Spark Plugs. What's left on the head to is swap the Oil Pressure and Coolant Temperature sensor from the old Head and put in new Timing chain, tensionor and guides once the Block is in place.

Whats left to be done is put the new Block, Clutch plates, change the water pump seals for preventive measure, cleaning and de-carbing the injector and throttle body.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

In continuation of my previous post, Had taken bike to SVC, I showed the bike to them and I was told that I should change some cone which is present near front forks and the labour charge is 1100🙁, I soon searched in this forum but couldn't find much details about it, and also he told to change the chain and sprocket, I've done about 18k is it supposed to be this soon?
And rear brakes is very woody, like the pads are too near to disc and upon pressing the rear brake, I don't see any movement in pads.
Needed your help on those two guys.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Great, I'd love to see the end result of this. Also make sure you replace your fuel filter and clear or replace your air filter as necessary, just in case you haven't considered that too.

Coneset is nothing but the bearings for the front steering assembly. Your handlebar moves left and right freely due to these ball bearings present inside the headstock and these are called coneset. If not used, they can rust and hinder the movement, so perhaps that's the reason they mentioned for a coneset replacement. Chain sprocket life can vary depending on usage, and conditions, but if it's deemed to be replaced, then replacing is better. But before replacement, make sure you it's actually end of life, sometimes they can just hoodwink for the sake of milking extra.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

i'd say put in new clutch plates (At least the friction plates). And even otherwise, when the clutch plates are being assembled.. make sure they are soaked in engine oil for at least 15-30 min prior to installation. a lot of mechanics dont do this and install them dry

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Thanks for the support I'm surely planning pen down an extensive write up on the rebuild, hoping it helps for the following reasons.
1) It helps to a lame person to understand the costs and parts that one needs to go through for the process before they get into the 390's.
2) A archive repo that has all the part numbers required, images of the spares for a quick lookup at handy.
3) How the bike feels now after 5years again once that you've replaced every single component possible on the topend of the engine

And yes coming to 2nd part, I've asked them replace the entire 12K consumable kit. New air filter(Last it was replaced ~5000kms back, so it'd almost gone by now having ridden in dust filled Bangalore traffic), new fuel filter, oil filter, new spark plug, oil strainers in the 1st and 3rd in the oil drain points and replace any bad cracked coolant hoses.

Chain sprockets and brake pads are also at EOL, but I'm holding off on that getting it done at SVC. Also because I'm trying to source Rolon Gold(brass chain sprockets) and EBC sintered pads.
I want to mainly get the engine done-up there, everything else externally accessible items I can openup and replace myself DIY or get it by my FNG.

Yes I'm already putting in complete set, new friction plates, new 6 pressure plates (they had some scored lines), the basket and grab plate seemed fine so no need for the outer hub.

At first I thought of putting the entire Slipper clutch assembly from the 2017+ D/RC390, but cancelled the plan as I still like the raw mechanical feel of the normal clutch and love the old school kickback and fishtail wobble from the rear wheel during aggressive downshifts which lacks on the Slipper clutches

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Almost same had happened.
The bike failed to start once it went off on highway and it was making loud noises when self start button was pressed.

I trust the ktm here, since 2015 they are the helping me keep KTM's at low pocket damages.
Estimate of 20 to 30k was given since nothing can be predicted without opening engine.
After opening engine 10k repair was counted.
For me, they did the repairs + some good relation deeds and final bill was 6k.

Bike was back to being rocket.
Some valve rods were gone.

Out of 4, 3 were bent to like 70 degree from being 90degree straight when kept on table.

Looked like this:

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

your valves were bent. lucky it dint cause much further damage to the piston/block.
classic case of not checking and adjusting valve clearances periodically.. eventually leading to starting trouble and/or valves being damaged.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Good job! I'd like to share my two cents worth, I would suggest you get the newer 390s master cylinder along with the newer brake pads, they are Brembo semi sintered and cost effective. Just a grand or two more than the EBC, you get a complete brand new MS with pad set with are truly fantastic. Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

Hi again,
How long does an RC 390 battery last, mine is the same since I bought it, weekly like 3 times I get low battery sign on display, but after riding it won't be there next day. I know it's pretty old, how long can I push it, or do I need to change.

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

If it's more than two years, and the dash throws up low warning, it's time to get a fresh battery. No matter, how much it holds charge for now or how well the battery cranks the bike, the battery will eventually give up. Get your battery replaced. If your bike is new and if it throws up error, that would mean, the vehicle isn't being run to charge the battery enough. Make sure the battery is re-charged and then installed on the motorcycle.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

usually around 3 yrs if the bike is used regularly. you could push it to 3.5-4 yrs depending on usage.
if you are regularly getting a low battery warning, its time to change the battery (get it tested to ensure that the other components of the charging system are not the culprit for the low battery).. running with a bad/low battery might eventually end up frying your stator coil or rr unit.
these bikes depend a lot on electronics, which in turn need a good power supply.