KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

[raj.pranay]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

Hi all, bought the RC200 almost a month back from Begumpet Ktm, hyd. I have a couple of questions I need answers/clarifications for.

1) is the rear break useless? I almost feel that way. Either it just locks up when Iy break hard or my bike refuses to listen to the rear break. My RC's rear is very weak. So I want to ask if all the RC 200's are like that. While the front is a complete contrast. Brilliant brake.. couldn't have asked for better.

2) terrible terrible vibrations in the rpm range of 3k -5k. The whole body shivers and maybe there are a couple of parts that are loose, making a wierd sound and I can't figure out which ones.

3) service centres. Which ones are good in hyd? The guy in bajaj service centre, Patigadda, Secunderabad didn't even know that they were not supposed to jet my RC with water. They did it anyway and I happened to find out while they were jetting an other RC. They were not at all aware of the bike and how to take care of it. They had no idea the rear suspension could be adjusted. And according to the service schedule there are 17 checks the bike needs to undergo. They hardly did 5. They are not at all aware of the manual.

4) my tank got completely empty once and my idiot friend kept driving it till the petrol bunk. I read somewhere that it might **** up the fuel pump. Should I be concerned about it and get it checked? It is working completely fine now.

5) I just got my bike serviced. So now can I revv it above 7.5k rpm frequently or do you suggest I take it easy on the bike?

6) how important is it for me to wait for sometime so my engine gets warmed up before taking off? I just start the engine and get going. Should I stop doing that? Also please tell me for how many minutes approx I need to just let it warm itself up.

This is my first post btw. Really excited to have joined this forum. You guys are awesome for helping people out!

Thanks!
Pranay

[KayKashyap]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

Hi all, bought the RC200 almost a month back from Begumpet Ktm, hyd. I have a couple of questions I need answers/clarifications for.

Hello, Welcome and Congrats on your purchase. Ride safe.

1) No Both brakes are important it depends on the ratio of front/back breaking, rear breaks just work fine. if you are feeling its not doing its job properly,get it checked in a SVC, you have warranty, make use of it to the most.

2) RC and Vibrations are like bread and butter. but should reduce after services,if it isn't, you have warranty, make use of it.
3) service centers: @Ajay Vishwanath can help you with this one
4) AFAIK, if you start your bike on empty tank it may damage your FI system.
5) Of-course you can rev above 7.5 rpm
6) I usually turn the engine on and wait for 5 minutes.

P.S : all of these are my opinions and i may be wrong.

[s1d]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

1) is the rear break useless? I almost feel that way. Either it just locks up when Iy break hard or my bike refuses to listen to the rear break. My RC's rear is very weak. So I want to ask if all the RC 200's are like that. While the front is a complete contrast. Brilliant brake.. couldn't have asked for better.

2) terrible terrible vibrations in the rpm range of 3k -5k. The whole body shivers and maybe there are a couple of parts that are loose, making a wierd sound and I can't figure out which ones.

3) service centres. Which ones are good in hyd? The guy in bajaj service centre, Patigadda, Secunderabad didn't even know that they were not supposed to jet my RC with water. They did it anyway and I happened to find out while they were jetting an other RC. They were not at all aware of the bike and how to take care of it. They had no idea the rear suspension could be adjusted. And according to the service schedule there are 17 checks the bike needs to undergo. They hardly did 5. They are not at all aware of the manual.

4) my tank got completely empty once and my idiot friend kept driving it till the petrol bunk. I read somewhere that it might **** up the fuel pump. Should I be concerned about it and get it checked? It is working completely fine now.

5) I just got my bike serviced. So now can I revv it above 7.5k rpm frequently or do you suggest I take it easy on the bike?

6) how important is it for me to wait for sometime so my engine gets warmed up before taking off? I just start the engine and get going. Should I stop doing that? Also please tell me for how many minutes approx I need to just let it warm itself up.

Welcome to the ktm club. I am also from hyderabad and so is [MENTION=70615]Ajay Vishwanath[/MENTION] (rc200 track guru)
The rear brake will be a bit iffy the first couple of 1000km. You will need to learn to use the front brake most of the time (except in gravel/sandy surfaces).
Once the rear pads wear a bit, the 'feel' will improve.. but if you try to use it like say the rear on a splendor, you will lock up the rear and skid.

As for the 'vibrations' , they could be the normal stuff which seem out of place/new to you. If possible try to ride another rc200 and check.
And let the bike clock around 1000km and see if you find a change.

Every service center uses water jet to wash the bikes. The ktm's are more forgiving to the jet and shouldn't be a problem. Unless the washing guy keep the jet too close to the bike and blasts it. The radiator on the ktm's is much stronger (compared to a cbr/ninja) and a pressure wash doesn't bend the fins.
Just make sure they dry out the bike and use compressed air to blow out water from the switch gear and engine area.

If your tank got completely empty, then your friend wouldn't have been able to ride the bike
It's ok to ride with low fuel at times, but don't make it a habit. when the last two points remain in the fuel gauge, you still have around 2~2.5L of fuel.

If you have completed 700km, you can go ahead and gradually build up the revs. Let the bike warm up for a minute (or at least 30seconds) and take the first km or so normally before you start ripping. And hitting high rpm's very frequently is not a good thing. you can shift up at around 7000rpm for a decent 'punch' and a little lower around 5500rpm if you want economy.
As for service centers in hyderabad, I have only visited the banjara hills ktm. I have a good personal rapport with them, and they have a good mechanic. They let me hang around and am happy. btw, I just got back from my 4th paid service a couple of hour ago.

[Ajay Vishwanath]

KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

Hi all, bought the RC200 almost a month back from Begumpet Ktm, hyd. I have a couple of questions I need answers/clarifications for.

1) is the rear break useless? I almost feel that way. Either it just locks up when Iy break hard or my bike refuses to listen to the rear break. My RC's rear is very weak. So I want to ask if all the RC 200's are like that. While the front is a complete contrast. Brilliant brake.. couldn't have asked for better.

2) terrible terrible vibrations in the rpm range of 3k -5k. The whole body shivers and maybe there are a couple of parts that are loose, making a wierd sound and I can't figure out which ones.

3) service centres. Which ones are good in hyd? The guy in bajaj service centre, Patigadda, Secunderabad didn't even know that they were not supposed to jet my RC with water. They did it anyway and I happened to find out while they were jetting an other RC. They were not at all aware of the bike and how to take care of it. They had no idea the rear suspension could be adjusted. And according to the service schedule there are 17 checks the bike needs to undergo. They hardly did 5. They are not at all aware of the manual.

4) my tank got completely empty once and my idiot friend kept driving it till the petrol bunk. I read somewhere that it might **** up the fuel pump. Should I be concerned about it and get it checked? It is working completely fine now.

5) I just got my bike serviced. So now can I revv it above 7.5k rpm frequently or do you suggest I take it easy on the bike?

6) how important is it for me to wait for sometime so my engine gets warmed up before taking off? I just start the engine and get going. Should I stop doing that? Also please tell me for how many minutes approx I need to just let it warm itself up.

This is my first post btw. Really excited to have joined this forum. You guys are awesome for helping people out!

Thanks!
Pranay

1) yes so that you don't skid and fall. It's basically like that for all bikes that are "high end". Practice in an empty parking lot or abandoned road the active braking. You don't have ABS. So here's the trick - never stop the wheels from moving. Front or rear.

braking - always use active braking (even when it's gravel, it helps you have a better control) in sand or places with low grip - go for passive braking (google them)

Practice so that your mind gets adjusted and use front only. Rear can be used but I'd keep it minimum. Use engine braking more. It's super effective in turning. Turning - never ever lock up your wheels. You will skid. Engine braking is your best friend there.

Practice is your best teacher.

(Experience is the best way you learn - go to a track if you can)

2) hehe, nobody can do anything. You gotta live with it. Try adding grips to the handle bars and if possible add the bar ends (TVS Apache works great) & adding a layer (I got two) of the "plastic mesh" seat cover - install tank thigh grips along with that. Don't want to damage your nut-sack do you??

3) pattigadda - Begumpet I assume - they are useless folks. For me, they never bloody changed the o ring and engine oil all leaked out!! They were about to mix 10w50 with 15w50 and pour into my engine. They are pathetic. Heard that the Kompally is good. Jetting - tell them not to wash, give 100 bucks less and get it done outside for 150 - better service. Checks - lol I wonder if they even know the spelling (FYI, they didn't do a PDI which they claimed to do for every bike before delivery & the manager considers it a time waste)

4) once or twice shouldn't do any harm. It is fine. Just don't give it to your friend or anyone. Your bike will be just fine. (The idiot "chamcha" who was supposed to show me the bike at delivery was starting the bike without fuel - that @$$#0|e

5) go by the book or use the motoman method. You can rev it till the redline - not constantly. Just touching for a second or two. Take it easy at any time. It's a high compression engine!!!

6) that depends - I used to wait for the heat bar to come at least one point (1 min during summer to 3 or 4 in winters) then I cut down to 1 minute. Didn't notice any difference. However, go easy till the "operating temperature" is reached (about 5 bars or 2 kms) don't worry - it reaches the operating temp pretty easily. Here's what you do - start the bike, then put on your gloves and helmet and ease away. But never do what you're doing now. It's a bike and not a activa.

Here's the logic (I read somewhere) - our cylinder heads are vertical. So when at rest, the engaging oil rests at the bottom of the bike. Hence warmup so that the engine oil goes over very nook and corner of the engine and lubricates the engine completely. For bikes like CD100 or RX, the cylinder/piston head is almost horizontal. So the oil takes little/no time to reach every place and it's a small engine with low complications unlike ours. [MENTION=16602]s1d[/MENTION] can give you more details.. but this is the basics put simple.

Welcome to the family

[s1d]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

For bikes like CD100 or RX, the cylinder/piston head is almost horizontal. So the oil takes little/no time to reach every place and it's a small engine with low complications unlike ours. @s1d can give you more details.. but this is the basics put simple.

Whatever the engine (or it's orientation) a 1 minute idle/warm up is always a good practice.
btw, the rx engine is not horizontally mounted, the one's like the cd100, splendor, activa are. It still doesn't matter when it comes to warm up and letting the oil circulate, do it on every two wheeler that has an internal combustion engine.. be it an activa or a kawasaki h2r. It also helps the idle to stabilize on a cold start (if you notice the idle will be a tad bit higher on cold starts.. that's the auto-choke kicking in)
In our weather which is always temperate, the oil circulates faster at start up compared to say on a cold winter morning in canada. The freezing temps make the oil a little thicker and in such conditions it is all the more important for things to come up to operating temperature before moving ahead.
My mantra is simple, let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute approx and take the first km or so slowly.

[raj.pranay]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

Well thanks for your inputs. What's an SVC btw? I think you mean the servicing centre. Right?

[raj.pranay]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

Hello, Welcome and Congrats on your purchase. Ride safe.

1) No Both brakes are important it depends on the ratio of front/back breaking, rear breaks just work fine. if you are feeling its not doing its job properly,get it checked in a SVC, you have warranty, make use of it to the most.

2) RC and Vibrations are like bread and butter. but should reduce after services,if it isn't, you have warranty, make use of it.
3) service centers: @Ajay Vishwanath can help you with this one
4) AFAIK, if you start your bike on empty tank it may damage your FI system.
5) Of-course you can rev above 7.5 rpm
6) I usually turn the engine on and wait for 5 minutes.

P.S : all of these are my opinions and i may be wrong.

Thanks kaykashyap.

[raj.pranay]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

1) yes so that you don't skid and fall. It's basically like that for all bikes that are "high end". Practice in an empty parking lot or abandoned road the active braking. You don't have ABS. So here's the trick - never stop the wheels from moving. Front or rear.

braking - always use active braking (even when it's gravel, it helps you have a better control) in sand or places with low grip - go for passive braking (google them)

Practice so that your mind gets adjusted and use front only. Rear can be used but I'd keep it minimum. Use engine braking more. It's super effective in turning. Turning - never ever lock up your wheels. You will skid. Engine braking is your best friend there.

Practice is your best teacher.

(Experience is the best way you learn - go to a track if you can)

2) hehe, nobody can do anything. You gotta live with it. Try adding grips to the handle bars and if possible add the bar ends (TVS Apache works great) & adding a layer (I got two) of the "plastic mesh" seat cover - install tank thigh grips along with that. Don't want to damage your nut-sack do you??

3) pattigadda - Begumpet I assume - they are useless folks. For me, they never bloody changed the o ring and engine oil all leaked out!! They were about to mix 10w50 with 15w50 and pour into my engine. They are pathetic. Heard that the Kompally is good. Jetting - tell them not to wash, give 100 bucks less and get it done outside for 150 - better service. Checks - lol I wonder if they even know the spelling (FYI, they didn't do a PDI which they claimed to do for every bike before delivery & the manager considers it a time waste)

4) once or twice shouldn't do any harm. It is fine. Just don't give it to your friend or anyone. Your bike will be just fine. (The idiot "chamcha" who was supposed to show me the bike at delivery was starting the bike without fuel - that @$$#0|e

5) go by the book or use the motoman method. You can rev it till the redline - not constantly. Just touching for a second or two. Take it easy at any time. It's a high compression engine!!!

6) that depends - I used to wait for the heat bar to come at least one point (1 min during summer to 3 or 4 in winters) then I cut down to 1 minute. Didn't notice any difference. However, go easy till the "operating temperature" is reached (about 5 bars or 2 kms) don't worry - it reaches the operating temp pretty easily. Here's what you do - start the bike, then put on your gloves and helmet and ease away. But never do what you're doing now. It's a bike and not a activa.

Here's the logic (I read somewhere) - our cylinder heads are vertical. So when at rest, the engaging oil rests at the bottom of the bike. Hence warmup so that the engine oil goes over very nook and corner of the engine and lubricates the engine completely. For bikes like CD100 or RX, the cylinder/piston head is almost horizontal. So the oil takes little/no time to reach every place and it's a small engine with low complications unlike ours. [MENTION=16602]s1d[/MENTION] can give you more details.. but this is the basics put simple.

Welcome to the family

Thanks for your inputs.

A couple of things again.
About the rear break, it just Dosen't feel like it's trying to stop my bike. Even if it's trying to, the efforts might be going in vain. But the wheels are locking up if I brake hard though. So the point of confusion is that if the rear brake is really that bad or only mine is bad.

And I agree with you on the usage of the front more than the back. But my rear break should also work when need be. Please suggest how I could check if my rear is working as it is supposed to.

And the vibrations are not really affecting me. The body of my bike is shivering 😛 not mine. And it is making a wierd noise.

Thanks for the welcome. 😊

[raj.pranay]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

Welcome to the ktm club. I am also from hyderabad and so is [MENTION=70615]Ajay Vishwanath[/MENTION] (rc200 track guru)
The rear brake will be a bit iffy the first couple of 1000km. You will need to learn to use the front brake most of the time (except in gravel/sandy surfaces).
Once the rear pads wear a bit, the 'feel' will improve.. but if you try to use it like say the rear on a splendor, you will lock up the rear and skid.

As for the 'vibrations' , they could be the normal stuff which seem out of place/new to you. If possible try to ride another rc200 and check.
And let the bike clock around 1000km and see if you find a change.

Every service center uses water jet to wash the bikes. The ktm's are more forgiving to the jet and shouldn't be a problem. Unless the washing guy keep the jet too close to the bike and blasts it. The radiator on the ktm's is much stronger (compared to a cbr/ninja) and a pressure wash doesn't bend the fins.
Just make sure they dry out the bike and use compressed air to blow out water from the switch gear and engine area.

If your tank got completely empty, then your friend wouldn't have been able to ride the bike
It's ok to ride with low fuel at times, but don't make it a habit. when the last two points remain in the fuel gauge, you still have around 2~2.5L of fuel.

If you have completed 700km, you can go ahead and gradually build up the revs. Let the bike warm up for a minute (or at least 30seconds) and take the first km or so normally before you start ripping. And hitting high rpm's very frequently is not a good thing. you can shift up at around 7000rpm for a decent 'punch' and a little lower around 5500rpm if you want economy.
As for service centers in hyderabad, I have only visited the banjara hills ktm. I have a good personal rapport with them, and they have a good mechanic. They let me hang around and am happy. btw, I just got back from my 4th paid service a couple of hour ago.

I'm done with about a 1000 kms. And I didn't revv my RC over 6k rpm before the service. Just today I realized the potential of this beast. Hit 100kmph casually. And still couldn't feel the speed. The whole experience left me smiling for the rest of the day. Lol. 😁

And yeah, my friend. He did the procedure where when you run out of fuel you shake your bike around for sometime and then start the engine and keep going wherever it takes you till and keep repeating the process till you reach a petrol bunk. I'll make that idiot pay if something happens to my fuel pump.

And btw, can I change my spring settings manually? And do you suggest i do that? I'm only 5'6 and sometimes It happens that I can't reach the ground with my legs.

[Ajay Vishwanath]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

Thanks for your inputs.

A couple of things again.
About the rear break, it just Dosen't feel like it's trying to stop my bike. Even if it's trying to, the efforts might be going in vain. But the wheels are locking up if I brake hard though. So the point of confusion is that if the rear brake is really that bad or only mine is bad.

And I agree with you on the usage of the front more than the back. But my rear break should also work when need be. Please suggest how I could check if my rear is working as it is supposed to.

And the vibrations are not really affecting me. The body of my bike is shivering [emoji14] not mine. And it is making a wierd noise.

Thanks for the welcome. [emoji4]

The brake will work. Don't worry. Give it some time. The brake is like that only because there's no downward force or "weight" on the wheel. When you brake, you move forward, so all the pressure and momentum is transferred from the rear wheels to the front wheel. Hence, there's very little weight on rear - hence it will lock up easily. So manufacturers keep it little "loose" or underpowered. It is normal. Give the brakes/tyres a couple 100s (300-400) kms. You will see the bite getting better.

I'm done with about a 1000 kms. And I didn't revv my RC over 6k rpm before the service. Just today I realized the potential of this beast. Hit 100kmph casually. And still couldn't feel the speed. The whole experience left me smiling for the rest of the day. Lol. [emoji16]

And yeah, my friend. He did the procedure where when you run out of fuel you shake your bike around for sometime and then start the engine and keep going wherever it takes you till and keep repeating the process till you reach a petrol bunk. I'll make that idiot pay if something happens to my fuel pump.

And btw, can I change my spring settings manually? And do you suggest i do that? I'm only 5'6 and sometimes It happens that I can't reach the ground with my legs.

You can do that yourself. There are YouTube tutorials. It's easy also.
Factory default is 3. You can go up to 10.
The setting depends on your weight/comfort.

I used to ride on 3 and it was not comfortable. I'm 6 ft and 80KGs. My setting is 8. And I'm very comfortable.

So if you are about 70s try to keep it at about 6.

Try various positions and settings and decide which one you are comfortable at.

Not just that - even tyre pressure.

I keep mine F- 25 and R-30 (for my weight I felt this is best) coz I ride solo 99% of the time.

[raj.pranay]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

The brake will work. Don't worry. Give it some time. The brake is like that only because there's no downward force or "weight" on the wheel. When you brake, you move forward, so all the pressure and momentum is transferred from the rear wheels to the front wheel. Hence, there's very little weight on rear - hence it will lock up easily. So manufacturers keep it little "loose" or underpowered. It is normal. Give the brakes/tyres a couple 100s (300-400) kms. You will see the bite getting better.



You can do that yourself. There are YouTube tutorials. It's easy also.
Factory default is 3. You can go up to 10.
The setting depends on your weight/comfort.

I used to ride on 3 and it was not comfortable. I'm 6 ft and 80KGs. My setting is 8. And I'm very comfortable.

So if you are about 70s try to keep it at about 6.

Try various positions and settings and decide which one you are comfortable at.

Not just that - even tyre pressure.

I keep mine F- 25 and R-30 (for my weight I felt this is best) coz I ride solo 99% of the time.

Appreciate it man. Thanks for your help. Will definitely keep these in mind.
Cheers.

[s1d]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

I'm done with about a 1000 kms. And I didn't revv my RC over 6k rpm before the service. Just today I realized the potential of this beast. Hit 100kmph casually. And still couldn't feel the speed. The whole experience left me smiling for the rest of the day. Lol. 😁

And yeah, my friend. He did the procedure where when you run out of fuel you shake your bike around for sometime and then start the engine and keep going wherever it takes you till and keep repeating the process till you reach a petrol bunk. I'll make that idiot pay if something happens to my fuel pump.

And btw, can I change my spring settings manually? And do you suggest i do that? I'm only 5'6 and sometimes It happens that I can't reach the ground with my legs.

If you can read the manual/watch a video and do it using the tool provided in the tool kit , then go ahead. Other ask the svc to do it, it hardly takes a minute.
I would suggest you bump it up to 5 if you weigh around 70-80kg. If you frequently carry a pillion bump it up to 6 or 7. This doesn't really affect the seat height much after adjustment, go for a ride and if necessary bring it a step down.

I keep mine F- 25 and R-30 (for my weight I felt this is best) coz I ride solo 99% of the time.

Isn't that too low at the front ? The recommended is 29 iirc (at-least on the duke).
On my D200, i keep it at F-29 R-32(michelins seem happier with 32, when am on the saddle) considering I weigh 90kg.

[raj.pranay]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

If you can read the manual/watch a video and do it using the tool provided in the tool kit , then go ahead. Other ask the svc to do it, it hardly takes a minute.
I would suggest you bump it up to 5 if you weigh around 70-80kg. If you frequently carry a pillion bump it up to 6 or 7. This doesn't really affect the seat height much after adjustment, go for a ride and if necessary bring it a step down.


Isn't that too low at the front ? The recommended is 29 iirc (at-least on the duke).
On my D200, i keep it at F-29 R-32(michelins seem happier with 32, when am on the saddle) considering I weigh 90kg.

I did that yesterday and did it today myself. Put it to 7. Thanks.

And regarding the pressure in tyres, I guess lower pressures help when the roads are bad and with gravel. Right?

[s1d]

Re: KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

I did that yesterday and did it today myself. Put it to 7. Thanks.
And regarding the pressure in tyres, I guess lower pressures help when the roads are bad and with gravel. Right?

The recommended tire pressures are low enough to cope up with some bad roads and at the same time providing enough cushion to protect rim and absorb some impact. When you go below recommended, you are putting the rim at risk of damage and also creating more drag.
Keep it at the recommended (or 1 to 2 psi more) and it should be good enough for our roads.

[Ajay Vishwanath]

KTM RC 200 Owners Experience Thread

If you can read the manual/watch a video and do it using the tool provided in the tool kit , then go ahead. Other ask the svc to do it, it hardly takes a minute.
I would suggest you bump it up to 5 if you weigh around 70-80kg. If you frequently carry a pillion bump it up to 6 or 7. This doesn't really affect the seat height much after adjustment, go for a ride and if necessary bring it a step down.


Isn't that too low at the front ? The recommended is 29 iirc (at-least on the duke).
On my D200, i keep it at F-29 R-32(michelins seem happier with 32, when am on the saddle) considering I weigh 90kg.

Zzzz it's 29 in manual. 25 in swingarm.

I'll make it 29 32.

That's what's there in my swingarm.