Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of
bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker
friends. Join us
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Guys, what have you done for breaking stability? My rear feels sluggish when applied little more it locks up and fish tails. Front is not bad, but road conditions doesnt allow me to fully trust front breaks.
One easy trick is to lower the rear brake pedal, this way the leverage you apply is lessened and hence mild brake pressure is applied to the rear wheel. The right amount of lowering is the key.
Guys, what have you done for breaking stability? My rear feels sluggish when applied little more it locks up and fish tails. Front is not bad, but road conditions doesnt allow me to fully trust front breaks.
I am using motul 7100 10w50 from past 2 years, it is better than stock as bike heats up less in traffic, oil remains smooth till 4500 kms , I change it at 5000kms , gear shifts are also smoother compared to stock oil, it is economical compared to 300v , but i feel 300v should perform better ,
Hello there I have a query for tyre !! Done 24000 and my tyres are due replacement!
I'm from Nepal and I found Apollo tyres dealer near my home! He has 3 options for my bike(only one exact fit)
Apollo alpha s1 140/60
Apollo alpha h1 150/60
Apollo actizip r5 140/70
First 2 are radials . So my question is do we really need radials for fz25 which doesn't lean much and never sees track! Given its almost double the price and almost half the mileage!!
Also if I chose to go with radials which would be more suitable? H1 has almost same circumference and height but s1 is bit small.
Below are attached comparisons of revolutions per km and circumference of both tyres with stock ones.
And what's the concequence of having slightly small tyre with respect to fz25?as in how much top speed will I loose and how much more stressed is the engine if it's even stressed .
Thank you
Guys, what oil do you recommend for our bikes?
I'm confused between motul7100, motul300v, and motul 300v2. Are there any other recommendations like shell?
In the manual, the recommended API standard is SL, and the grade as 10W-40. Since this engine gets hot a lot, anybody experienced improvements going for 10W-50?
I am using motul 7100 10w50 from past 2 years, it is better than stock as bike heats up less in traffic, oil remains smooth till 4500 kms , I change it at 5000kms , gear shifts are also smoother compared to stock oil, it is economical compared to 300v , but i feel 300v should perform better ,
Only similar designed 2.5* ( 72mm maximum width ) or smaller projectors can fit because of small housing. anything bigger and you will have to reduce the quantity to 1. but there's another issue with that, headlight glass isn't flat in middle so if you use bigger projector in middle, there will be significant light loss. basically only this projector is suitable, and it's the cheapest with good enough stock quality.
[ATTACH]252353[/ATTACH]
Not only that, you still need to modify projector heatsink to fit 2 of them side by side. it's a lengthy process of trial and error. i'll make a tutorial once i finish the project.
Thanks, and the tutorial would be so helpful [emoji2]
You can checkout out Projectors from RS200/RC390
Each outer projector unit costs ₹1423 without wiring and bulb assembly, you can use either H4/H7/H9 based bulb assembly and use stock headlight wiring with 4-pin relay https://www.99rpm.com/bajaj/headlamp...s200-bsiv.html
Sorry, but those are not even comparable, only good hid projector setups are close in output but again it will cost more than bi-leds. biggest issue here is size, anything wider than 72mm/ longer than 125mm won't fit.
Thanks! I'll look if I get some other projectors at a lower price, is it a good idea?
You can checkout out Projectors from RS200/RC390
Each outer projector unit costs ₹1423 without wiring and bulb assembly, you can use either H4/H7/H9 based bulb assembly and use stock headlight wiring with 4-pin relay
Thanks! I'll look if I get some other projectors at a lower price, is it a good idea?
Only similar designed 2.5* ( 72mm maximum width ) or smaller projectors can fit because of small housing. anything bigger and you will have to reduce the quantity to 1. but there's another issue with that, headlight glass isn't flat in middle so if you use bigger projector in middle, there will be significant light loss. basically only this projector is suitable, and it's the cheapest with good enough stock quality.
Not only that, you still need to modify projector heatsink to fit 2 of them side by side. it's a lengthy process of trial and error. i'll make a tutorial once i finish the project.
You don't need to buy those driver and leds, projectors come with their own leds+ drivers. but i don't trust their warranty claims nor quality, so i decided to use something high quality. osram led is not only high quality and automotive grade, but it provides higher light intensity too.
also, you can buy same projectors from here also. but there's no point wasting 3x more money for same thing.
Thanks! I'll look if I get some other projectors at a lower price, is it a good idea?
[MENTION=91784]slopegatri[/MENTION] thanks for the detailed reply :-) [MENTION=33190]ashwanth.r[/MENTION] thanks I got the point you were explaining about!
You don't need to buy those driver and leds, projectors come with their own leds+ drivers. but i don't trust their warranty claims nor quality, so i decided to use something high quality. osram led is not only high quality and automotive grade, but it provides higher light intensity too.
also, you can buy same projectors from here also. but there's no point wasting 3x more money for same thing.
These bolts are tightened once and then stay that way. Recall was for those that weren't tightened with threadlocker. Not any fundamental issue with the engine. It's a nice bike and I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again, if I was going to have to make a decision with what's in the market today.
Yes, it is a good, big-looking, actually-big, VFM bike without the headache of liquid cooling. I didn't question the reliability of the engine, we were only asking if the peculiar noise can come from the balancer gear.
Wasnt that the cause for the first recall? The one that happened soon after the motorcycle was released? Is the second recall also regarding the same issue?
Ops. I didn't know there were 2 recalls. I only knew about the threadlocker issue. It's a very different/unique engine - see it's disassembly video when you get time. The engine breathes to the airfilter box via the camshaft access cover. So this camshaft cover inside has a metal plate that prevents the oil splash from entering the breather tube. The culprit bolts are the ones holding this plate.
On a different note, if you recall my P220 had luggage racks at the rear that were fastened on to the stock mounts on the motorcycle, I had used medium strength threadlocker and also let them properly set before using the motorcycle, everything was fine and well until I recently decided to take them off, I had my impact driver ready but to my surprise the bolts came off without even the slightest bit of hesitation, which leads me to believe that with even the medium strength ones available in the market are not even designed to handle that kind of abuse from regular shock and leverage.
Yes, but if high strength is used, loosening of the fastener becomes difficult, especially if it is a small bolt/nut. IIRC, in one youtube video I saw, the Yamaha SVC tech uses Loctite 640 (a green liquid) marketed as retaining compound for bearings rather than a threadlocker. I have seen this green liquid only in Yamaha training videos available in Youtube. The breakaway torque, operating temperature and nut size limit mentioned in the specs are very important in choosing a threadlocker - Am still reading on those. The specs for Loctite 243 and Anabond 122 are very similar.
The noise does get louder if the valve clearances are tight, or are improperly set, so it is like a signal to check valve clearances. The noise has reduced by some 80% on my bike after 10k kms.
So it's related to the valvetrain may be. Just the way this engine is. Since it doesn't bother most of you, Enjoy and ride safe!
Leave a comment: