B7ackthorn@007 brother newer open electronics as repairing newer allowed by manufacturers and also Bike is already in warranty.

Okay. I'll get the TB thoroughly checked. Regarding the fuel pressure, the KTM guys checked that as well and it was fine. Most importantly, i read about this similar issue (engine cut off while downshifting) on another forum happening with an ADV 390 owner, he has suggested to change the clutch sensor switch (located just below the clutch lever) could that be the culprit ? And yes, this issue within just 5K on the Odo. is really bothering me.

Even if a its a clutch sensor or fuel pump, the bike should not throw "low oil pressure" error, something is seriously wrong electrically in your bike, get the ECU updated/repalced and checked, many 390Adv owners got ECU replaced due to MTC failure and ECU failure error, check these below video





Also for such issues at only 5K ODO, following could be reasons
1) Depends could be bad manufacturing defect with the battery/fuse/relays, check and inspect them all. Check battery voltage on peak load
2) Bad wiring kit or ECU from factory
3) Rat bite (most common reported issue) in the electrical circuit causing some loose connection or some short to ground
4) Someone tampered with the bike purposely
5) Did you install any aftermarket accessory on new bike(like fog lamps, hazard lights, mobile charger, dual tone horn) if so something got messed up during the install from the shop who was installing

Best to start with disconnecting any extra mods you've if any, get the full wiring circuit inspected from dealer. Also since bike is new push for dealer warranty even if they say its not covered, tell them give the same in writing.

Hi, the KTM guys have already checked and updated the ECU. However, if this issue as shown in the above video pops up in my D390, then i'll definitely ask for replacement of the same.

Also, reasons like Rat Bite, tampering and aftermarket accessories can be ruled out as the bike is always parked in cover inside my house which is rodent free and the bike is pure stock, no fog lamps, hazard lights, mobile charger etc.

Electrical gremlins can pop up right out of the factory too, there is a reason why electronic/electrical components have limited to no warranty and with these switches almost nada. If you can in fact get it replaced and if it does help in solving the issue, why not. Interesting twist in the tale though.

Cheers!
VJ

do try to clean and reinstall the clutch switch or a new one and see.. otherwise try the following :

Have you tried riding another bs6 390 ? Pl do ride one (preferably start off from a cold engine).. maybe the test ride bike at the svc or a friends/or maybe ask another customer at the svc if you can ride his bike and he your bike, so you can see if the same 'issue' persists. Sometimes its just the riders riding style that needs to be adapted, especially the engine shutting off when you abruptly close throttle and pull in the clutch (usually a wee bit of throttle blip is required to avoid the shut off). with the engine suddenly shutting off, this probably is causing the low oil pressure warning light to come up.. Do you see the low oil pressure warning light come on even otherwise i.e. during riding/engine idling ??
There have also been some cases of a faulty oil pressure sensor, replacing that might solve the false low oil pressure warning issues.

Another thing is, Ask the svc to connect their diag tool (on a cold engine). check for any error codes.. if no error codes, ask them to clear the dtc (you will see that option on the tool).. after clearing the dtc, put the bike on paddock with side stand retracted.. start the engine, don't touch throttle.. let it idle for 15 min and then shut off the engine (idle it for between 15 min -15 min 30 second.. not more or less). This procedure lets the ecu 'relearn', otherwise after clearing the dtc the idle with be a bit erratic and you will face engine shut down at times for the first few minutes of riding.

Also iirc the 390 now has an option to reset the ecu, remember reading it in the service manual.. will share the procedure once i get hold of the manual, cant remember it off my head. But the above steps should be a good starting point in troubleshooting.

Yes. I'll get replaced and hope it solves the issue. Also, i've got the video of all the issues popping up on my GoPro so that i can show them.

The low pressure warning light doesn't come up any other time i.e. riding/idling engine. Thanks for the suggestion, if the clutch sensor switch doesn't solve this issue, i'll try the ECU fix.

The front sintered brake pad costs Rs.2662. A whopping increase of 77% from an year back. The normal brake pad is still available for Rs.400. Does anyone know what is the price for the front disc?

When you are going to replace the tyre, never let them mount the wheel on the machine with the brake disc facing down. Or better, just remove the disc and give. Otherwise, you will end up with a bend disc.

I recently replaced my tyre and the tyre changing guy did exactly this and bent the front disc.

So, i gave the bike to the nearby KTM service center to replace the front disc. It should have ended there but sadly it didn't.
I wanted to replace the front wheel as well since it had a slight bent as well although it was not affecting the ride.
The service center people fixed the new disc to the new wheel and took it to a tyre shop to refit the tyre from the old wheel to the new wheel. Lo and behold, they bent the new disc as well.

Double whammy eh! Usually, the rotor side is always up, most local tire folks use the rotor as a leverage to stand over and then work their way around the tire. The bigger the disc, the higher the chances of it warping, and this warpage would end up causing vibrations through the bars when braking or at certain speeds. Hope you've replaced the rotor. IIRC, the rotor costs approx 1799-ish

Cheers!
VJ

Hi all!

My 2018 Duke 390 have clocked 25k kms on stock chain sprocket. On the last ride, it was making considerable noise and i realized that the time has come for sprocket replacement.

Now, with multiple options for chain sprocket, the rolon brass 15/45T , rolon ktm stock chain sprocket , RK XW brass kit , i am unable to conclude what makes a perfect combo of performance and longetivity.

With my riding style and maintainance, the stock sprocket lasted this long. Please guide me on choosing the right set.

i am looking for good performance with decent maintainace.

TIA

The factory OEM that KTM uses is provided by Rolon. Rolon brass is nothing but a stock chain, except that the plates are of brass coated. RK seems to be company from Japan and if you don't mind the Rs. 1000 deficit, you can perhaps try the RK considering it's an X ring one as per its spec sheet. I would recommend RK purely for the Japanese name tag and the X ring. Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks VJ.

Unfortunately just saw the reply and i have changed to brass coated rolon chain 15/45T few days back.

My observation with the new sprocket ratio is that the talller nature of the 5th and 6th gear have been reduced. Now the bike runs 5 to 6 kms speed lesser than the stock chain at same rpm.

Lesser jerking , better torque spread acorss gears and responsive 6th gear under 100 kmph @ 6k rpm with this spec and i feel itd the best compared to stock

As I said, the stock ones are Rolon indeed, so a brass coated one from Rolon shouldn't be anything less of a quality, plus it adds to brass bling.

Cheers!
VJ