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2017 Duke 390 Owners Reviews and Experiences

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  • biker_sac
    replied
    Originally posted by ksuresh92 View Post
    Is it a good deal ?
    No.
    The new 390 is still in test phase and it would take at least 1 year for them the sort out the issues.
    You'll get a better price for your bike if you sell it outside.

    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Looks like ktm is promoting gen3 390 by providing 10k off on exchange

    My bike has run 40k kms, its been 5 years and they are offering 1.6L exchange value plus 10k discount on gen3 390 and I have to pay 2L along with discount to get new one .

    Is it a good deal ?
    • Likes 1

    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

    MOS2 does seemt to make a difference, albeit very noticeably. The reason MOS2 is widely used on an used engine oil is primarily because when an engine oil is subject to severe heat cycles, the additives in them become depleted. What MoS2 does is basically refill that lost additive package in addition to already being an excellent engine wear additive. So there you have it. Too much of moly is quite harmful than what it actually prescribes to do. Always use the recommended dosage and worth a try as experiences vary from being to being.

    Good luck.

    Cheers!
    VJ
    Hi VJ, yes this is so true, after completeing 2500 kms with Shell Advance Long Ride 10w50, the oil was smooth but not as good as new. Added 40 ML of MOS2 and after 50 kms, i can really feel that the engine is free revving and pretty smooth than the usuall state of the oil. I think its a good time ~2500 kms to add the additives rather than adding it during oil change.

    Leave a comment:

  • B7ACKTHORN
    replied
    Originally posted by ksuresh92 View Post
    Does mos2 really makes he engine smoother even with high quality synthetic engine oil ?

    I am using shell long ride 10w50 fully synthetic and is pretty smooth in highways.

    Are these oil additives just a placebo or really does they make a difference ?
    MOS2 does seemt to make a difference, albeit very noticeably. The reason MOS2 is widely used on an used engine oil is primarily because when an engine oil is subject to severe heat cycles, the additives in them become depleted. What MoS2 does is basically refill that lost additive package in addition to already being an excellent engine wear additive. So there you have it. Too much of moly is quite harmful than what it actually prescribes to do. Always use the recommended dosage and worth a try as experiences vary from being to being.

    Good luck.

    Cheers!
    VJ

    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Does mos2 really makes he engine smoother even with high quality synthetic engine oil ?

    I am using shell long ride 10w50 fully synthetic and is pretty smooth in highways.

    Are these oil additives just a placebo or really does they make a difference ?
    Last edited by ksuresh92; 09-23-2023, 11:40 AM.

    Leave a comment:

  • B7ACKTHORN
    replied
    Originally posted by ksuresh92 View Post

    Thanks VJ

    DM'd you about the ride. Also I have checked with the SVC , technician confirmed that only middle bolt will leak and first bolt is just to hold the sprocket cover.

    He confirmed by opening all the bolts and starting the engine and oil came only in middle bolt , and said these changes are for 2nd generation 250 and 390 only. I think i have been just saved by an inch !!!

    Just applied locktite and pushed the bolts to the threads present .
    It's not the middle bolt? Oh my! Maybe I couldn't infer clearly from your post which bolt, because of the oil stains. Yes, it's the center bolt that is crucial and if it's stripped, there's no looking back. The first and third bolts are comparatively smaller shanked bolts than the center one and that explains why it held in the first place, because no amount of Loctite or superglue would hold the hot oil bathing the bolt which would eventually give loosen up the agent. If it bothers you, you can take it to a local lathe shop or who does re-threading and they can tap a bigger thread and use a bigger bolt since this particular bolt is out of harm's way.

    Cheers!
    VJ


    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

    Vibrations can and will loosen a bolt overtime owning to the skimpy thread it's hanging onto. The glue might work as a temporary solution, but the temperature of the engine can eventually cake-off the glue and and the bolt can undo itself over time. Now, talking about price, the case perhaps can cost around 6k to 7k and the associated labor can turn out to 3k (ballpark). If you can get a used case, well and better. If it's holding up, let it hold, once it gives up, there's no looking back.

    So, you have a Ooty ride. Let me know, I reside in Ooty, maybe we can catch up for a cuppa if time permits. Please DM so that we can be in loop.

    Cheers!
    VJ
    Thanks VJ

    DM'd you about the ride. Also I have checked with the SVC , technician confirmed that only middle bolt will leak and first bolt is just to hold the sprocket cover.

    He confirmed by opening all the bolts and starting the engine and oil came only in middle bolt , and said these changes are for 2nd generation 250 and 390 only. I think i have been just saved by an inch !!!

    Just applied locktite and pushed the bolts to the threads present .

    Leave a comment:

  • B7ACKTHORN
    replied
    Originally posted by ksuresh92 View Post

    Thanks VJ ,

    I have upcomming ride to ooty and currently there are few threads which holds the bolt. But still can't tight it to full torque spec.

    Will do a stress test run to see if there are any oil leaks. If it doesn't can I ride some 1000 kms ? Will engine vibrations loosen it ?

    Thinking of using red loctite and a 6 mm stud with a bolt and fix it permanently. So that even in case of left engine case removal stud will help.

    Any idea on the cost of the left center case ? I talked to asc and he is quoting atlesst 20k for this job.

    Thanks for the response!
    Vibrations can and will loosen a bolt overtime owning to the skimpy thread it's hanging onto. The glue might work as a temporary solution, but the temperature of the engine can eventually cake-off the glue and and the bolt can undo itself over time. Now, talking about price, the case perhaps can cost around 6k to 7k and the associated labor can turn out to 3k (ballpark). If you can get a used case, well and better. If it's holding up, let it hold, once it gives up, there's no looking back.

    So, you have a Ooty ride. Let me know, I reside in Ooty, maybe we can catch up for a cuppa if time permits. Please DM so that we can be in loop.

    Cheers!
    VJ

    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Originally posted by ksuresh92 View Post
    Ripped the threads for this bolt. Now it's is hanging in last few threads but not tightend fully.
    what can be done and can i ride with this situation?

    Screw is 1st from top on the inner sprocket cover.


    Click image for larger version Name: 20230915_210536.jpg Views: 101 Size: 101.2 KB ID: 2239606
    Update :

    Applied little anabond acrylic glue and tightened the bolt to until I cannot rotate by hands. It is holding onto few threads inside !

    took the bike for a ride for 200kms non stop for stress test to see if there are leaks from this bolt. Did some extensive speeds and checked the bolt for leaks post that.

    The insides and the bolt seems to be dry and very normal and there are no traces of oil at all in the edges , inside the inner sprocet and also the inner areas below it ! Seeems this tightness is holding 😊

    Hopefully it stays as it is 😊 .

    Changing the tyres to Apollo Tramplr 140/70 , will update post changing

    Hapy motoring 😊

    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

    You've ripped the threads of the wrong bolts at the wrong location. These bolts thread carcasses behind carry oil galleries. If this bolt is either loose or a thread is stripped, oil shall, can and will leak and that's a bad thing from the stripped thread location. Your only bet, either re-thread them using a tap, an oversize bolt which is cheaper. Or replace the left center casing, which in any case is what I'd suggest.

    Good luck.

    Cheers!
    VJ
    Thanks VJ ,

    I have upcomming ride to ooty and currently there are few threads which holds the bolt. But still can't tight it to full torque spec.

    Will do a stress test run to see if there are any oil leaks. If it doesn't can I ride some 1000 kms ? Will engine vibrations loosen it ?

    Thinking of using red loctite and a 6 mm stud with a bolt and fix it permanently. So that even in case of left engine case removal stud will help.

    Any idea on the cost of the left center case ? I talked to asc and he is quoting atlesst 20k for this job.

    Thanks for the response!
    Last edited by ksuresh92; 09-17-2023, 08:43 AM.

    Leave a comment:

  • B7ACKTHORN
    replied
    Originally posted by ksuresh92 View Post
    Ripped the threads for this bolt. Now it's is hanging in last few threads but not tightend fully.
    what can be done and can i ride with this situation?
    Screw is 1st from top on the inner sprocket cover.
    You've ripped the threads of the wrong bolts at the wrong location. These bolts thread carcasses behind carry oil galleries. If this bolt is either loose or a thread is stripped, oil shall, can and will leak and that's a bad thing from the stripped thread location. Your only bet, either re-thread them using a tap, an oversize bolt which is cheaper. Or replace the left center casing, which in any case is what I'd suggest.

    Good luck.

    Cheers!
    VJ

    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Ripped the threads for this bolt. Now it's is hanging in last few threads but not tightend fully.
    what can be done and can i ride with this situation?

    Screw is 1st from top on the inner sprocket cover.


    Click image for larger version Name: 20230915_210536.jpg Views: 101 Size: 101.2 KB ID: 2239606

    Leave a comment:

  • B7ACKTHORN
    replied
    Start off by inspecting wheel bearings, first, usually a sharp tak followed by grinding noise usually indicates a bearing failure. If the sound comes on any undulations, check your rear swingarm bearings, a faulty or a worn out swing arm bearings would usually mean even a small bump or undulation would produce thud, tak and khatak sounds. Ask your SVC to check the swingarm bearings, wheel bearings followed by shocker.

    Good luck.

    Cheers!
    VJ

    Leave a comment:

  • abhishek7706
    replied
    Hi Friends,
    On my DUKE 390, 2017 NEW model, 23k on the ODO,
    I am getting "thak thak" sound from rear suspension while going over even small potholes or small undulations on the road
    Authorized SVC suggesting complete replacement
    Any suggestions ?

    Leave a comment:

  • ksuresh92
    replied
    Hi all,

    What is the best engine oil that this bike can get?

    I am using motul 7100 and planning to try castrol power1 ultimate superbike oil or amsoil . The bike is already smooth with 7100 10w50 with mos2 and xp95 fuel

    Just planning to give a try of other oils to see if any other oil is better than motul. Please provide your suggestions.

    and xp95 makes night and day difference in smoothness and power delivery

    Leave a comment:

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