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Was not using my bike for around 2 weeks due to quarantine. Was a bit skeptical with the battery as early this month had issue while starting it up one time where the bike failed to start 2 times and I had "ECU Failure" displayed on the display, I turned it off completely and tried, it started. So today I just wanted to warm the engine but the bike wont start now. All I can hear is fuel pump and knocking noise of the starter I guess, is this battery issue? or anything I can do sitting at home to fire the engine up?
Thanks,
Aswin
Battery. Almost all the Dukes have trouble starting if kept in hibernation more than 2 weeks. The battery does discharge slowly. It's a good practice to start the bike every 5 days, let it idle for 10 mins with occasionally revving to 6k. This makes sure the batt remains charged and fuel isn't stagnating.
Was not using my bike for around 2 weeks due to quarantine. Was a bit skeptical with the battery as early this month had issue while starting it up one time where the bike failed to start 2 times and I had "ECU Failure" displayed on the display, I turned it off completely and tried, it started. So today I just wanted to warm the engine but the bike wont start now. All I can hear is fuel pump and knocking noise of the starter I guess, is this battery issue? or anything I can do sitting at home to fire the engine up?
Changed the engine oil myself - went with Motul 7100 , seriously i feel the old oil has been degraded. It was dark and was not as good as i expected. The best range to change your engine oil is 2500 kms. Whatever oil you use.
Indeed Suresh. I try to make it a point to say this to everyone. Manufacturers are too optimistic with their oil change intervals, and they test it under their controlled conditions, not it real world. The real world torment an oil goes through is something extraordinary. With modern lean engines, with the horrendous traffic and riding conditions, anything above 3k max is just not worth it for a motorcycle engine.
Liqui Moly isn't going to make a huge difference. If any, it would be negligible for the cost. But then, if you like to try it, I'd recommend it too.
Cheers!
VJ
Thanks VJ.
Changed the engine oil myself - went with Motul 7100 , seriously i feel the old oil has been degraded. It was dark and was not as good as i expected. The best range to change your engine oil is 2500 kms. Whatever oil you use.
Yes Liquimoly oils are not that worth for the price they have. Tried Liquimoly Street & Street Race in my fz version 2 the difference is marginally better when compared to the stock oil. But definetly not the worth for the price i paid for them. Same goes with the Fuel additives.
Yeah, shell ultra 10w 40 works much better and cheaper too.
Liqui Moly isn't going to make a huge difference. If any, it would be negligible for the cost. But then, if you like to try it, I'd recommend it too.
Cheers!
VJ
Yes Liquimoly oils are not that worth for the price they have. Tried Liquimoly Street & Street Race in my fz version 2 the difference is marginally better when compared to the stock oil. But definetly not the worth for the price i paid for them. Same goes with the Fuel additives.
Yes exactly. Even though the company claims 7500 kms of drain interval, the smoothness is gone within 2500 kms. I have felt this everytime I cross 2500 kms.
So can we use liqui molly 10w50 street race instead of motul 7100 ? Heard good reviews about them.
Liqui Moly isn't going to make a huge difference. If any, it would be negligible for the cost. But then, if you like to try it, I'd recommend it too.
Yes exactly. Even though the company claims 7500 kms of drain interval, the smoothness is gone within 2500 kms. I have felt this everytime I cross 2500 kms.
So can we use liqui molly 10w50 street race instead of motul 7100 ? Heard good reviews about them.
Just my temporal observations. Clunking sound can be due to loose rear muffler bolts and also shocker bolts and a variety of other factors. Check this by compressing the rear shock up and down when parked and observe if the sound emanates. If it's only occurring during running, it can be more than just the shock. Secondly, additives do work, but again, they don't last long. Your bike is your best translator, if it likes the engine oil it reflects that to you, if it doesn't again, it lets you know. 3k is the best interval to replace engine oil in the Duke, my personal recommendation.
Had a good ride last weekend.. kind of bit of offroading . It was interesting until I started to hear some loose clunking noise from rear suspension. I was able to hear it everytime I go over big stones .
It was a clear clunk sound from rear shock. The toolkit and chain slack is good..anyone experienced this ?
And also the engine oil. 2500 kms from the last change and the smoothness is gone. Should we change it this quick..? Any additives will work ?
Anyone tried liqui molly ? Heard that is good.
Thanks !
Just my temporal observations. Clunking sound can be due to loose rear muffler bolts and also shocker bolts and a variety of other factors. Check this by compressing the rear shock up and down when parked and observe if the sound emanates. If it's only occurring during running, it can be more than just the shock. Secondly, additives do work, but again, they don't last long. Your bike is your best translator, if it likes the engine oil it reflects that to you, if it doesn't again, it lets you know. 3k is the best interval to replace engine oil in the Duke, my personal recommendation.
Had a good ride last weekend.. kind of bit of offroading . It was interesting until I started to hear some loose clunking noise from rear suspension. I was able to hear it everytime I go over big stones .
It was a clear clunk sound from rear shock. The toolkit and chain slack is good..anyone experienced this ?
And also the engine oil. 2500 kms from the last change and the smoothness is gone. Should we change it this quick..? Any additives will work ?
Hi guys,ex -390 owner here..I used to have the Duke about five years ago and had to sell it due to personal reasons.Can anyone tell me if the reliability factor has increased wrt engine/components.? My duke had the coolant-engine oil mixing issue for which we were able to swap the engine for a new one under warranty after a lengthy fight. Does the 390 still have any such incidents reported off late? I'm planning to get the bs6 version(still love the power,hate the services) but not sure about the situation with quality control.
Definitely the quality has been improved lots from the earlier batches, when compared to 2013-2016 models, i.e. the fit and finish, the materials used. But, is that all? Definitely not. The bike is still temperamental and add to the electronic wizardry, anything can go wrong will go wrong and can throw tantrums now and then. The engine though smoother, still isn't a reliable one for the most part. It doesn't mean it's not a worthy investment, it's more of a have fun, and then sell it while you can gain enough.
I had hoped they would make the 390 more reliable after all these years.On a side note,test drove the new dominar..that is one haathi wrt weight I would say.But i haven't heard of too much issues for it either.
Share what you think about the motorcycle you own or have owned in the past.
Was trying to find out the pics I posted here of the green coloured oil port hole of my old 390 before the engine was replaced.it's there somewhere. In short, 300kms old new duke with persistent low/missing coolant level and overheating,engine stall..the usual complaints...greenish colour in oil port missed by asc during routine free service. Incompetent asc Staff- lot of headache-Arguments at all levels of administration for a month or two-Got engine of choice swapped. Ktm Vytilla.
I have faced all the issues you just said now.Oh God,have they still not fixed these things?! I was kicked around in my family/friends circle during my time for getting the 390.
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