Yesterday visit the SVC again, they test the petrol through a paper, and that petrol leaves a black strain in the paper, he confirms that my petrol is adulterate with kerosene. He didn't check any other thing of the bike; just suggest me to take the petrol from a good bunk and preferably in the morning. He also suggests that when after finishing this fuel, he will decarb the head and valves, if needed he will grind the valves also. Now what you suggest on this front.

I am currently using a Honda Paper filter, which used in the Dio and Activa. The service mechanic from Tvs itself suggest me to put the thing and he install the same for me. If this is the culprit.

When coming to office today found a rattling sound from the left side of the engine around 5000 RPM. Its a new sound, no idea, may be the Timing chain.

It s seems that RTR is now showing its original India nature. With lots of problem started from only 13000 km. don’t know how it gona solve. There is lots of complain regarding Fi, at least 6 Fi was lying in the SVC for head, fi unit, injector problem, most of them are victim of bad fuel, lots of carbon deposit in the head, can see the chalk of the crystallize carbon around head, valve and pistons.

Horrible petrol of India.

Gearing will be affected by a GOOD margin, not very little. I had 18-inch rear on my Pulsar. With a change to 17-inch I found massive difference.

@Julian: If u can source the spare, nothing like it! The handling will improve really well. But try to at-least go for the old Apache's 43T rear sprocket to compensate for the gearing change.

@Kauria: I dont think the timing chain will give u rattling noise. And as long as the air filter is fixed properly, I dont see an issue!

guys how to do a burnout ? whenever i try the bike keeps going forward when i release clutch even with hard pressing of brake .

i still dunno if it's a direct fit. if it involves any kind of cutting/welding i won't bother.

what exactly is lighter? the alloy itself or do you mean it's lighter coz no tube? because the tube itself might be 500gm. and if the r-15 tyre is lighter than the tvs, then add that too. guess this means a trip to the tyrewaala with a weighing scale

yes, i understand that the gearing will change drastically when changing rim sizes. but do you mean the 43T rear with the stock front or your 14T ?

one thing i'm slightly concerned about is will going 17" shift the weight backwards much. i'm just about satisfied now with the rtr's forward-biased stance, wouldn't wanna muck that up.

damn, dude ! you should complain about that pump. usually bad pumps get shut down pretty quick! valves and seats usually don't require grinding for 30-50k kms. i doubt that would solve your problems. in fact, if they don't do a proper job, it could make it worse. you should try the petrol thing. the whole morning thing borders on myth though. the only thing is when the pwtrol is cooler as in the morning, you get a bit more because it hasn't expanded with heat of the day. one major thing to note is that petrol these days seems to drop it's octane very soon when stored. so the fresher petrol you get, the better. i wasn't a big fan of daily visits to the pump, but after feeling the difference between fresh petrol and say a week old, it's no more full tanks for me unless i'm on a long trip.

If u can get the 14T, then no rear sprocket change needed IMHO. I dont think it will shift the weight bias that much. Joel was using a 17-inch rear. He said it improved handling. Just check with him. For sure the weight bias and seating will change!

ok man, sounds good. only thing is getting the bloody 180's rim and if the damn thing will fit on the fi easily.

we have a forum called The Stunter - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community. that would be a better place for this query?

but since you asked, first get your butt off the seat. you will be standing on your feet, almost on tiptoe unless you're very tall, and put all your weight on the handle bars. very little weight on your feet. oh, and make sure your legs are in front of the footpegs.

Just replicate the pic on renny's Avtar!!!

but tht's diff of only onch inch.....
and i wonder how it affected the gearing.....
i mean if the same FI's sproaket will be used...

i think it'll be a direct fit....
overdrive mag stated tht the RIM is 500gms lighter than RTR/FI....

..........
exactly!!!!!!!!!

But how
what Rpm to let the clutch go ? is supposed to be gradual or quick release ?

do the trick julian told....
dont sit at the seat as it'll put on weight at the rear i.e more traction at the rear...
rev the bike at 4500-5000 and let go the clutch immediately and increase the rev at the same time to about 9000 and while doin so shift to 2 gear without using the clutch (clutchless shift) to get the rear more 'spinnin' to get tht "HOLY" smoke................

Also Put you legs in front of the foot pegs, this will help further in burnout

oh, so then it could be just because it's without a tube. someone would actually have to weigh each rim separately to know if the rim itself is lighter. these ZCV rims are pretty decent these days. almost as good as the enkeis. anyone know the brand of rim the r15 uses? apar, could you chk maybe ?

LOL

i always do a gradual release. if your body position is right and your weight is on the front with the brake held, the rear will start spinning without any difficulty.

I am very frustrated now!!! Today I called the SVC and asked about the sticker and they denied!!! Ok then I asked if they can provide me the entire plate with sticker and they again said No!!!
The day before I talked to him then he said I have sold the stickers before but now he is denying it.Damn TVS!!!

Again a wicked thing happened today seeing Renny's post I thought of shifting gears at 10k rpm so b/w 7k to 9k its like shaky shaky and after then it becomes smooth and I said damn a crazy speedo!!!