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you'll have to search this thread for details but i remember some members having used the nightbreaker on the rtr. however, there was something about 55/60w bulbs not operating at peak lighting levels on magneto power. still better than the stock though. try contacting kauria. he's in kolkata and has tried loads of headlight mods on the rtr.Originally posted by Jonak View Post
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still waiting for your replies guysOriginally posted by rider_rock View Postwhich service centre in delhi repair tacho needle , i don`t want to replace my speedo again, the tacho needle some times moves to 7-9-12k rpm when it is actually at much lower rpm & the tacho needle is now behind zero when the engine is off
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When a man has pity on all living creatures then only is he noble. ~Buddha~noble.org.in
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Thanks a lot bud.Originally posted by julianpaul View Postyou'll have to search this thread for details but i remember some members having used the nightbreaker on the rtr. however, there was something about 55/60w bulbs not operating at peak lighting levels on magneto power. still better than the stock though. try contacting kauria. he's in kolkata and has tried loads of headlight mods on the rtr.A professional candid photographer - 17000+ followers. Be in touch
https://www.facebook.com/Jonak.Photo
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Thanks for the info. Same thing happens with Karizma also I guess.Originally posted by insanebiker View PostYes, it s a direct fit, but u wont get the full illumination effect of the 55W bulb as the RTR has a 35W coil.A professional candid photographer - 17000+ followers. Be in touch
https://www.facebook.com/Jonak.Photo
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I am not sure jonak. Cos Zma s Headlamp runs off the battery(DC), i guess the bulb will draw the amount of current required from the battery.Originally posted by Jonak View PostThanks for the info. Same thing happens with Karizma also I guess.
In case of other bikes, the Coil powers the headlamp, the coil can max give out only 35W, hence u don utilise the bulb to its fullest.
Then again,someone(Inder i guess) said that in the Zma, the electricals run on DC only upto 3k RPM and after that it runs on AC. So, i am all the more confused.When everything comes ur way, u r in the wrong way ;)
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Thanks again dude. Actually I am planning to install a Nightbreaker in my ZMA. But here in Kolkata it is available in pair. One of my friends (a RTR 160 owner) wants to pair with me if the bulb fits in his RTR and gives better illumination than the stock halonix 35W/35W. Hence my query.
A professional candid photographer - 17000+ followers. Be in touch
https://www.facebook.com/Jonak.Photo
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Originally posted by Jonak View PostThanks again dude. Actually I am planning to install a Nightbreaker in my ZMA. But here in Kolkata it is available in pair. One of my friends (a RTR 160 owner) wants to pair with me if the bulb fits in his RTR and gives better illumination than the stock halonix 35W/35W. Hence my query.
convert the RTR's headlight to DC and plonk in the NB. and ur ZMA can take NB with ease07 HH Zma
11 Honda Aviator DLX
14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
16 Scooty Zest
11 CBR 250R
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Today probably is the first time i overheated the disc to an extent where stopped to stop the bike
Was returning to home after meeting xbhpian....was ripping all the way and braking real hard too......stopped for a min to let the disc cool oof and it was bak to normal.
Anyone had such exp before?07 HH Zma
11 Honda Aviator DLX
14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
16 Scooty Zest
11 CBR 250R
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but it will still be better than the stock 35w right ? so i guess jonak can go ahead and recommend the NB even without converting to dc. reason i'm saying this is coz not evryone does the dc conversion the right way.Originally posted by onlinesatish View Postconvert the RTR's headlight to DC and plonk in the NB. and ur ZMA can take NB with ease
yup, i've noticed brake fade too after an extended session of hard riding/braking. but the thing is since we're not racing we can just ride sedately till the brake gets back to normal. never had to stop to cool though. i had this suspicion from the start that even though it was a petal disc, the disc material itself wasn't so great. i've nothing to back that though, just a gut feeling from visual observation. kinda like the how the old HH discs (nissin) were great and the new tata ones weren't that good.Originally posted by onlinesatish View PostToday probably is the first time i overheated the disc to an extent where stopped to stop the bike
Was returning to home after meeting xbhpian....was ripping all the way and braking real hard too......stopped for a min to let the disc cool oof and it was bak to normal.
Anyone had such exp before?
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not with my RTR....Originally posted by onlinesatish View PostToday probably is the first time i overheated the disc to an extent where stopped to stop the bike
Was returning to home after meeting xbhpian....was ripping all the way and braking real hard too......stopped for a min to let the disc cool oof and it was bak to normal.
Anyone had such exp before?
cuz i always ripped it in straights and not in the repeated twisties...
man...u fried the hell outta that disc ha..........
but ya i experienced this on pulsar (150) after i had a high speed session in ghat downwards....
the front disc went numb completely...
i simply love YAMAHA for givin that in R15....Originally posted by julianpaul View Postkinda like the how the old HH discs (nissin) were great and the new tata ones weren't that good.
The Magician"
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Update on "injection unit" that was replaced...
the bike is running fine, i've done 110 kms after the change and (fingers crossed
) thr's no missing in the cold and hot temps both...
the signature "missing" between 2000-3500 has vanished completely and the new "missing" which i experienced upwards of 7500 twice, is not there too....
the bike is running more smooth,and is revving more freely...The Magician"
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injector kit chngd
+1Originally posted by rennycornelius View Postthe bike is running fine, i've done 110 kms after the change and (fingers crossed
) thr's no missing in the cold and hot temps both...
the signature "missing" between 2000-3500 has vanished completely and the new "missing" which i experienced upwards of 7500 twice, is not there too....
the bike is running more smooth,and is revving more freely...


yesterday svc has changed the injectror kit of my fi to ensure the soln of missing in my babe. n uptill nw it is running flawlessly !!!!!!!!
BIKING ??? " A RELIGION "
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my dear the digi console cannot be repaired by ne1 or by svc , there is only a soln for it, tht is to replace it with new one under warranty. The same thing hapnd with me n svc replaced the console with new 1.Originally posted by rider_rock View Postwhich service centre in delhi repair tacho needle , i don`t want to replace my speedo again, the tacho needle some times moves to 7-9-12k rpm when it is actually at much lower rpm & the tacho needle is now behind zero when the engine is off
BIKING ??? " A RELIGION "
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