Oh! so that Black thingy that i see in every RTR. Does it has RTR or so.. written on it.

Very neat idea. Expose the underlying black plastic. I haven't considered something like this because the clipons are still aluminum. Will have to paint em black too. Otherwise it will be a two-tone look.

Could we have a pic of this Renny?

BTW, what price they quoted for it. Mine's started to crack from two places .

Also, from 2-3 days engine oil is leaking (1-2 drop per day) from drain nut. Oil level is still manageable. Just 4 months back I had got that bottom plate and nut changed, due to damaged threads. Now again its leaking. Would try to wrap teflon tape on it and then tighten it.

Warranty period is on the verge of completion. Already crossed 30K mark. Now it'll just be a formality of getting bike serviced at ASC.

Can u tell me What Thing include in Full Service..?
1>1st Washing 2>AirFilter Cleaning 3> Chain lube/tight 4>Thight any loose nut bolts 5>..? Or kuch karana hota hai kya Service mai ..? i mean we can do this all by our self thn why ASC..?

Finally someone else noticed it. The thing is a damn rip off. especially when you're in paid services. Washing, oil+filter change, air filter cleaning and chain lube + setting. That's all a service generally includes. There are no diagostics of proper vehicle functioning unless the owner specifically mentions issues, and even then they pretend that there is no such problem. It's just a figment of the owner's imagination. Sadly, this is the truth in much of the svc centres in india. What i do these days is get the bike washed from a local washing place near my house. He does a much better and thorough job with no leftover grease and stains on the bike AFTER i get it back from service. They give a 75 buck discount if you don't get the vehicle washed at the svc. Then i have my own schedule for changing the oil and filter (synth). I get this done from a local mech, takes much less time. So essentially, I pay the svc Rs. 175 for cleaning the filter and setting the chain. LOL. and all this just to keep it in warranty. I'm just waiting for the 2nd year to get over and then it's bye-bye tvs svc. Too much bother to keep the bike just running.

They are looking good actually, the two tone thing is giving the break to the all black continuity thing too.

Sir will post it tomorrow for sure.

It's for 100 bucks.
Oil leaking is due to loose drain nut, tighten it yourself.
Make sure the it's not bolted with "Screws on Screws" or "Chudi pe Chudi" as commonly known.

You mean a break in the all-silver look? coz this is the only black thing now isn't it?

btw, i'm using petronas sprinta 5000 and my oil level drops to about 75% in about 1-2000kms. Anyone else notice this? No visible smoke in the exhaust or other signs of trouble. Bike running smooth, maybe revving a bit too free, sign of less oil? the level is roughly halfway on the dipstick. so it's within spec. btw, the manual says to wipe the stick and then screw in the stick to check the oil level. But i remember some older bikes where you just insert the stick till the cap touches the crankcase, without screwing it in. What's the right way/right way for the rtr?

Oh Sorry, yes the break to the silver thing.

I'm running on PETRONAS SPRINTA too from past 800kms and i check the level of oil every sunday, as Mr. SARVAJIT told that when he used the fully synth oil in his FIERO F2 it considerably dropped after 1000kms.

I've noticed the freeness of revving too, but it's much noticable between 4000-6000RPm rest is the same.

NO for the RTR you have to put it on the main stand, wipe the stick, screw it fully then remove and check the level.

Julian i dont think oil should drop that much .when i used petronas even i felt oil level is less that half on stick and i freaked out and thought petronas sucks but when i drained it 1 liter came out . maybe it doesnt stick to the stick . whenever you drain the oil always measure how much came out .

I used petronas during Leh. Lost 350ml of oil. Am now using motul5w40. No issues with it.

My last change was at 11k kms. After that when i checked the oil at 13.75k kms it was low. Drained and checked it was about 750ml. Refilled 1L sprinta. Now at ~15k kms it's again low. Pretty sure it's about 750ml again. Think i've had enough of sprinta. Haven't really noticed any big improvement with vibes or anything to justify the price. And the big hype about fully synths, other than the superior lubrication, is the drain interval, around 5k kms. But here when it's running low to 75% in aroun 2-3k kms what's the use. Now i'm confused as to what to switch to. MOTUL/MOBIL and the rest of the fully synths are much more expi than even sprinta. Whatever, i won't go back to tru4. that one just made the damn engine sound/feel rough.

also, what's the best weight oil for an fi? 50 or stick to 40? mumbai weather, read moderate.

on another note, my cuz who was using the bike for the last month complained about the bike handling really wierd at low speeds. kinda like unbalanced/wobbling. I took it back from him for some work and when i rode it it was friggin unrideable. felt i would drop the damn thing. first thing i checked was the steering head. but like before it was overtight, which the svc dudes did to get rid of the thudding sound from the head. next doubt was air pressure. took it to the pump and found the front was at 20psi. a quick fill of 25/28 and she was back to normal. 5psi made such a diff. what rally impresses me about this bike is the way she's wearing gracefully with age. handling all sorts of abuse and still running fine. good job tvs on build.

The OIL shouldn't be blamed for the decrease in its level as its the engine that is burning up the oil. the problem lies in the engine. Synthetic oil is "thinner" as compared to the mineral oil. so the (synthetic) oil level is bound to reduce when you pour it in an engine that has done considerable mileage running on mineral oil. the tolerances set in engines running on mineral oils are of higher degree than that in an engine running on synthetic oil.
for those who have replaced their engine oils from mineral to synthetic after running considerable number of kilometers, should expect their oil levels dropping. It is better to stick to either of them right from the beginning thus avoiding any fried piston rings.
One can always shift from synth to mineral without any hazards but remember , it's not the case when shifting from mineral to synth.

You can go for semi synth MOTUL or POWER1.

You answered it mate
But actually this time, tappet setting, CO adjustment, clutch play, etc. have to be done which. atleast I'm not mastered to do myself, and neither I trust any mechanic's skills in my vicinity.

Oh, once I asked here in ASC, they told me for about 250 bucks .

Will take care of that bro. I'll also use teflon tape so that it plugs any minute damage in threadings.

Hmm, so I guess it should be safe to stick to semi synthetic ones.