Plz, it will be great help.

here are the snaps renny:
Dont mind, i havent cleaned my RTR and used it for 3 days as low beam headlamp relay is blown. will work on it tomorrow. Note the clip on mounting position.

Thanks a lot brother for the pics,

but tell me one thing the first hole for the position which makes the handlebar come closer to the tank, when the handlebars hole is matched with it, was it coming without banging on to those two screws???

Actually i want to make the handlebars second slot match with the plate's first, that will make it closer to the tank, but the metal clips from the screw are stopping it from moving forward after the half distance.

PS:
You coloured the tank lid black right?
it's looking good, similarly i saw your heat shield painted black in your orkut pro that was looking good too.

The factory setting is near to the tank. To bring it nearer, u need to drill the hole and tap it to adjust as you want. But do it precisely, as if you mess up, handle bars will be out of balance(one will be nearer and other away).

I have made them wider (adjusted away from tank. that setting is readily available. no need of modification).

Regarding tank cap, it was sort of eye sore with silver color in middle of black race strip. Regarding heat shield, that is only S.S. finished part on entire RTR. other parts are either silver or black.

I calculated the same, but to find a nice guy to leth it out perfectly will be hard to find and yes like you said he can mess away the Whole plate.

Will stick to the factory setting as for now, i wanted to make them closer to the tank as they would have resulted in slightly upright riding position.

Regarding heat shield, what i did, i removed it and went to my mech and told him to cut the mountings of the silencer where it was bolted, then suggested him to make it grind and smooth and paint it all black, but he refused as he told that it's made of very thin sheet and doing so will result in the pre rusting of it from that particular area.

Now i'm waiting for that pro kit silencer.

I got matt finish black spray paint can for Rs.180/- which lasted for 1 coat to knee guard, and saree guard(which i use to tie luggage), 5 coats for silencer, 3 coats for tank cap and 1 coat to each wheel.

I thought to do the same on the alloys as they have become slight white from certain places but it would be more good if i get them painted the proper way (scrapping the existing colour then coating the new one), will get it done after the rains.

Sorry for the bad pics, again clicked from mobile cam.

EDIT:

To make it look more black what i did was i poured some drops of coconut oil before buffing it with rubber, that made it more smooth and fine.

After the buffing it was already very black but still to give it finishing touches i applied wax shoe polish to it, that made the small pores fill with it.
After doing it i rubbed it with a cloth and finally finished it with a black liquid shoe polish and the result was this.

Nice job man!

Although I personally would have preferred a matte finish to the smooth, shiny finish you've done. So i would have finished the job with the finest sandpaper, which would give a smooth, yet matte surface. Cool anyway. Btw, i think the silencer looks pretty cool without the heatshield which is a tack shiny addition to an otherwise sober looking bike. Painting it is a waste, just remove it and save 250gm!

And I use a friendship band on my key too. I hate key fobs/chains/rings etc. Just a nice fabric band is what does the job for me.

Nox, the spray paints don't really hold as well as with a proper paint job. So i doubt they would be suitable for hot surfaces like the silencer. Plus they don't hold on sharp corners. That's why you have those lighter lines on the edges of the tank cap. And no number of coats help, it just doesnt stay on sharp edges. Do give a long term update on the painted surfaces. It would work well on the clip-ons though in case anyone wants them black too. I always have a can of black spray paint in the house, i have this obsession with painting things black. My PC case, my cellphone (t610-all black julian paul edition ), previous t100, the leg guard on so many bikes, list just goes on actually.

Hey and we hit 600 pages!

Hey new problem!Entrance exams over so was trying Stoppie on RTR 160 the bike wasnt going up

I attain speed of 25-30 kmph and pull-in the clutch and apply the front brake about 80% the bike aint going up although I am pushing my weight forward!Sometimes Tyres are skidding

Actually that last coat of liquid polish ruined the matt look, will buff it again with rubber to gain back the matt look as i'm also not liking that shiny finish.

Key chains are always strict no no for me so i use the strings.

Removing the shield exposes two mounting joints for the shield which are almost half inch above the surface which looks super bad, i told mech to grind them out but he refused.

Black thing goes with me too, i too painted the leg guard of my FIERO black and the front shocks of my KB100 were black too.

Congo for the 600'th page.

Well, if you remove the mounting nuts, you will never be able to fit the heat shield again. What i did was use a couple of nice, big round head screws. Painted black of course. These fill up the holes and now it doesn't look really bad. I don't have a cam, so i'll post a pic as soon as i can get a friend to click one.

Now that's a good idea, i'm doing it tomorrow.

@julian:That paint remained on silencer for 1 month and on heat shield till date. regarding tank cap, what you say is true. But for proper paint, the surface needs to be made rough. i was lazy to scrap it with polish paper and day before applying color, it was wax polished. i will scrap tank cap with polish paper soon and repaint the same . will show you the result then. After paint prior to drying, that cap needs to be kept upside down.

There's one thing though, just noticed it when i went downstairs. Other than the two screw holes for fixing the heatshield, there is a support section in the middle. A round rubber thing goes into this to keep the shield from rattling. This support piece has three holes in it which are unthreaded. So if you want to put three extra screws into this, which would look pretty wierd anyway, you will need to use three nuts below them too. Give it a try anyway and see how you like it. You can always fit the shield back if you don't like it. Personally i it looks much better without the heatshield after fixing the black screws even though the center piece is visible.

No man, i've tried it after multiple applications of various grades of paper. Nothing works. The problem is the spray paint itself. Because it has to spray out of a can, it has a high thinner content. This keeps it from sticking very well and it will always flow away from sharp edges unlike regular paint which is applied by a paint spray gun or powder coating. Basically spray cans are good only for flat surfaces. And if you keep the cap upside down it might cause an uneven surface if your coat is too thick. So the best way to use spray cans is very light coats, and multiple ones with atleast 1/2 - 1 hour drying time in between coats. Heavy coats WILL mess up the finish. Good luck and do post pics when done.