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Restoring a RX 135 4s

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  • #31
    2) Can I use Gladiator front fork assembly with the RTR discs brake kit.

    no u cant bcz the mounting and plate size are different ,also difficult to find out fiero hub to mount disk plate .otherwise u have to go for alloy wheels but it is very long proses

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    • #32
      I'd rather prefer the stock RXZ genuine front disc setup for a perfect stock look and even braking but its difficult to find one,any way another setup is that of the apache looks cool too,lower pipes of the apache,disc of the apache,hub of the fiero,gladiator with apache? exactly cannot tell you have a look in case you prefer the apache setup
      Last edited by RX88; 11-21-2010, 02:03 PM.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by aalop143 View Post
        2) Can I use Gladiator front fork assembly with the RTR discs brake kit.

        no u cant bcz the mounting and plate size are different ,also difficult to find out fiero hub to mount disk plate .otherwise u have to go for alloy wheels but it is very long proses
        But aalop, didn't manarcane ask for the entire assy as such? Did he ask for Glad's assy with RTR's disc kit or am I missing something here?

        Originally posted by RX88 View Post
        I'd rather prefer the stock RXZ genuine front disc setup for a perfect stock look and even braking
        So do all of us here , but where's it available?
        Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
        Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
        ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day

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        • #34
          surely argee the Z disc setup is like finding a black cat in the dark i am too in search of it if i find it with a good deal surely i will go for my RX

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          • #35
            Originally posted by manarcane View Post
            To get a clear idea of what I'm upto, I've listed the things to be done in stages. Before that, I'm looking at a bike which I don't want to get into extensive mod job which includes porting, chamber etc.

            This is what I have in mind. A good street bike to make my adranaline rush.

            So the obvious choices to make that possible were by:

            - Head job
            - RDD CDI
            - Reeds
            - Filter
            - Upjetting.

            Most of the above task will be taken care with RDD products.
            As aargee mentioned, I'll a need a disk set up too with the this performance. But I'm not going for it at the moment. Will make sure that I mantain my drum brakes in good shape and if possible, replace brake pads every few 1000kms. Doesn't cost much.

            So here is how it goes:

            1) Procure the parts required. Would like to know from you experts as to which parts would I have to procure as far as the transmission is concerned (clutch plates, connecting rod, shaft etc).
            2) Procure the fabrication / cosmetics parts (mirror, engine cowl, center & side stand, front mudgaurd, rear carrier, side covers and other minor parts.
            3) Buy only the Gladiotor / RTR front fork assembly. Will even consider pulsars if its cheap. I know the RTR & Pulsar discs are good as I've used both of them. (would like to know feedback on gladiators disc assembly)
            4) Get on with the Engine Work and at the same time, get the engine head mod by RDD.
            5) During the engine work, get the painting work done.
            6) Get a RDD CDI kit, filter (UNI) and reeds (I've asked my friend to enquire about the RZ reeds too from US)
            7) Get the disk brake kit.
            8) Get the 100/90 kit from RDD. This is the last of it.

            Now my concerns are:

            1) Although engine parts needs to be replaced based on wear & tear, I want to know which parts when replaced is good when I get a engine overhaul done.
            2) Can I use Gladiator front fork assembly with the RTR discs brake kit.
            3) Is 100/90 kit from RDD really worth. Cause I can get the re-winding of the coil done for 10% of the cost of RDD kit.

            I am not getting all of the things done at one go. I might not go for a disc brake instantly after the engine mod, but will surely go for it within a couple of months.

            I hope the things are clear now and wish suggestions, feedbacks are given based on the above route map/plan.
            Without porting, why would you modify the head?... Why would you fit a performance filter & Upjet the carb? All these mods are generally done after the work on the barrel. Please read & learn.

            Stick to stock settings & you will really enjoy your ride. Mods are only for hardcore 2-strokers, who want every drop of performance from their machine.

            It is too long to discuss everything, unless we have a look at the bike. If you are from B'lore then give me a call & we shall see what can be done. Search my Number from Spares forum.

            P.S: You can't be obsessed with both Car & 2-T bike at the same time, you have to make a choice.
            TEAM ENERGY INDUCTION

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            • #36
              Originally posted by aargee View Post
              But aalop, didn't manarcane ask for the entire assy as such? Did he ask for Glad's assy with RTR's disc kit or am I missing something here?


              So do all of us here , but where's it available?
              ya he said gladiator fork assembly with rtr disk setup its not possible .for that they have to go for without disk bottom and weld it properly the mounting according to rtr plate size( we done our in rd).

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              • #37
                Originally posted by aalop143 View Post
                2) Can I use Gladiator front fork assembly with the RTR discs brake kit.

                no u cant bcz the mounting and plate size are different ,also difficult to find out fiero hub to mount disk plate .otherwise u have to go for alloy wheels but it is very long proses
                Thanks for the update. That's what even I thought.

                Originally posted by karthikdattag View Post
                Without porting, why would you modify the head?... Why would you fit a performance filter & Upjet the carb? All these mods are generally done after the work on the barrel. Please read & learn.

                Stick to stock settings & you will really enjoy your ride. Mods are only for hardcore 2-strokers, who want every drop of performance from their machine.

                It is too long to discuss everything, unless we have a look at the bike. If you are from B'lore then give me a call & we shall see what can be done. Search my Number from Spares forum.

                P.S: You can't be obsessed with both Car & 2-T bike at the same time, you have to make a choice.
                Slight change in plan now. I'm keeping the head mod, RDD CDI & Filter for the last.
                I'm doing the head mod to have a better compression. Also, I'm using the 4s head with a 5s barrel.
                Performance filter is not necesarily done after a barrel work. Even if added on a stock bore, it will give out a better output.

                The mod's I'm doing will definitely gain more performance than a stock one. And that's exactly what I'm looking at.

                I've made my choice. Its going to be both. I AM infact obsessed with both my Palio GTX & RX 135.

                Originally posted by RX88 View Post
                I'd rather prefer the stock RXZ genuine front disc setup for a perfect stock look and even braking but its difficult to find one,any way another setup is that of the apache looks cool too,lower pipes of the apache,disc of the apache,hub of the fiero,gladiator with apache? exactly cannot tell you have a look in case you prefer the apache setup
                Stock RXZ is preferable anytime. Availability? Would probably go for the RTR setup as I like the disc design. Also, they are pretty effective.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by manarcane View Post
                  I'm doing the head mod to have a better compression. Also, I'm using the 4s head with a 5s barrel.
                  Doesn't matter if you are using a 5-S barrel, no need to bump in the compression unless you are doing a 0-400mts speed run.

                  Originally posted by manarcane View Post
                  Performance filter is not necesarily done after a barrel work. Even if added on a stock bore, it will give out a better output.
                  Are you sure on this one? Just by plonking in a performance filter (Like, K&N / Pipercross / UNI etc), it will give more performance comapred to Stock foam filter is it? Well thats a news to me & even to my tuner. Good i am getting to learn quite a few things from you. Nice.


                  Originally posted by manarcane View Post
                  The mod's I'm doing will definitely gain more performance than a stock one. And that's exactly what I'm looking at.
                  Keep us updated on what gains you will be getting without touching the barrel & using an EC. I am very eager to know the result. I will leave the other experts to comment on this.

                  P.S: Just one thing before i finish off, without touching the barrel, without working on the ignition, without working on the transmission (GB & Sproketing), it is impossible to get any noticable gains on RX135. You are simply burning hole in your pocket. Another question, have you ever tested a Stage 3 or 4 ported RX135? Try it & you will know what i am talking about.
                  TEAM ENERGY INDUCTION

                  www.teamenergyinduction.in

                  www.youtube.com/channel/UChH1uoyrjGRxnd2h5p075VQ

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by karthikdattag View Post
                    Just by plonking in a performance filter (Like, K&N / Pipercross / UNI etc), it will give more performance comapred to Stock foam filter is it? Well thats a news to me & even to my tuner. Good i am getting to learn quite a few things from you. Nice.
                    Lol

                    Hilarious; this thread is turning hilarious now
                    Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
                    Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
                    ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day

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                    • #40
                      Nice to know you are getting to learn something Karthik.

                      What does a Filet do?

                      Air filters primary purpose is to remove small dirt particles before they make their way into the engine.
                      Also, a good air filter helps in better breathing of the engine and hence combustion / burning of fuel (Air = oxygen = catalyst / helps burning).


                      With a good quality Air Filter (Uni / pipercross or which ever you name) helps restrict the dirt particles with good air flow compared to a stock filter. This obviously means that the engine gets good quality and quantity of air. This essentially means there is more oxygen molecules for a better combustion.

                      The outcome is, your engine fires better (better performance) and lasts longer (due to less dirt particles).

                      Eventhough there is a minimal hike in power, it is still evident when you open the throttle.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by karthikdattag View Post
                        Are you sure on this one? Just by plonking in a performance filter (Like, K&N / Pipercross / UNI etc), it will give more performance comapred to Stock foam filter is it? Well thats a news to me & even to my tuner. Good i am getting to learn quite a few things from you. Nice.

                        P.S: Just one thing before i finish off, without touching the barrel, without working on the ignition, without working on the transmission (GB & Sproketing), it is impossible to get any noticable gains on RX135. You are simply burning hole in your pocket. Another question, have you ever tested a Stage 3 or 4 ported RX135? Try it & you will know what i am talking about.
                        Well Karthik,

                        It was a news to me as well when I first heard that a RD 350 makes as much power as a M800.

                        Yes, I have tested a stage 3 ported RX135 and a Shogun. Apparently I was jobless for about 9 months and all I did during this time was spend time in a garage where I used to get my bike serviced. Have spent over 100hours of practice session with the mechs there on a farm land prepared to track races.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by manarcane View Post
                          Well Karthik,

                          It was a news to me as well when I first heard that a RD 350 makes as much power as a M800.

                          Yes, I have tested a stage 3 ported RX135 and a Shogun. Apparently I was jobless for about 9 months and all I did during this time was spend time in a garage where I used to get my bike serviced. Have spent over 100hours of practice session with the mechs there on a farm land prepared to track races.
                          May i know what is the connection between RD350+M800 & Performance Filter+Stock filter?

                          If at all you want to compare the BHP levels, then plz compare TATA NANO with RD350. Both are twin cylinder engines & develop within 35BHP. A little study would have helped i guess.

                          Enough of OT, why dont we talk about your ride!!
                          TEAM ENERGY INDUCTION

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                          • #43
                            i guess every engine is a different and is a class in itself manufacturers make and design it keeping options/points in mind,comparision always leads to agruments,misunderstanding,all i can say is an RD is a class in itself and M800 is in itself if you have both enjoy

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                            • #44
                              Time for some updates.

                              - Got the RDD CDI a few days back. Don't plan to install now. Will wait till the engine is rebuilt and will install the CDI after the run-in.

                              - Haven't found time to visit the YASS.
                              Need to buy a few more stuffs and need suggestion.

                              1) RXZ Engine Cowl (Available)
                              2) RXZ Speedometer & Tachometer (available). (Want to know what else will I need to the tacho to work. I think its the cable & gear. So which gear is it, technical term?)
                              3) The Pivot Lamp is not available. Have to check a few more YASS.
                              4) Clutch plates, friction plates, springs etc. Which ones are good. Or is it the OEM.
                              5) RXZ Front mudgaurd.
                              6) Head light unit. Which one is good. I currenty have a Yezdi Unit. Any other suggestions for good throw and spread. I was considering the TATA ACE headlight. They seem to have a good throw & spread.
                              7) Handle bar. I have tried both Shogun & RD 350 handle bars. I'm not so comfortable will either of them. I get shoulder pain even after a short journey. Recommendations please.

                              I'm having an issue with the electrical. Changed the wiring when I bought the Bike 2 years ago. The problem I'm facing is that after every charge, the electricals work for a few weeks and then go kaput. Horn & Side indicators don't work. Any suggestions...

                              Awaiting Recommendations...

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                              • #45
                                Man that CDI is one of the best things you can give your RX it is the shiznaaaaaaaaaat! siiiiiiigh Ron has run out of CDIs and they don't work on an RX 100 ((((((((((
                                RIP ਕਾਕਾ ਭੈਣੀਆਂਵਾਲਾ (Santokh Singh Rataurh)

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