• Bought union rims. 1.4*18 and 1.6*18.
• Technician finalised. The same gentleman who has worked on my RX100 for many years will do this rebuild. Finally sane quotes. Chassis and Silver bits painting alone will be done by DTW.
• Compression and mileage test results awaited. Expected tomorrow.
• Ordered for bolt kit. Delivery expected day after.
• Paper Work: Yelahanka RTO has sent confrmation request of NOC issued by RTO, Bhubhaneswar. Instructed to get the bike in shape before bringing for inspection. Once the re-build is done, will present the bike for inspection. If the conformation from B'neswar is also received by then, I should be geting KA plates very soon. Arrongant motor vehicle inspector, patient ARTO. Between the two need to get the job done and later thinking of suing the arrogant swine.
• As of now, looking to wrap this up by 9/25. Let see how this one turns out.

If you're changing so many front end parts, go for the <insert fav disc brake option> setup.


Rear wheel axle, Oil tank lens, mudguard, meter plate, primary gear nut, clutch bell nut, Neutral bolt etc. These parts never go wrong. Either you're bike is really screwed up if the mechanic is fleecing you.

Just get a rebore, use an original ART 0.5 piston. Wouldn't suggest a new kit.

Bike is screwed, no doubt about that. Mudguard are the plastic ones, so changing it to chrome ones. Meter plate was damaged on my RX100 too earlier. Rest of the parts, well I am just relying on his judgement. In any case, these parts won't hurt me much. Its the big ones like, tyres, battery, mudguards, cylinder, crank, bearing kit, etc which hurts. Most of these I have already. Infact he forgot stuff like crashguard (it has that rowdyish bar now), mirror, etc which I will get anyway.

Why not a new kit?

Disk Brake option would cost me much more. I wouldn't settle anything less than Gladiator set-up. Like Nitesh, I also prefer to get parts from same brand. That would set me back by 9-10k? Or thats the impression I get from reading about it in various forums. Currently, only inner tube is the big thing that needs to be replaced. That should set me back by 2600 +/- 10%+constituent parts and consummables say another 500-600. Shouldn't be more than 3.2k. Too wide a difference to pay for a feature which I don't really value.

If you have enough Vitamin M, by all means go for it. I am of the opinion that more braking is always better, it can save your life sometime. which I dont think a new cylinder piston might do. You can get disc brakes instead of spending on a new cylinder kit.

Small parts do end up pushing the prices. Picked up some ~40-50 small RXZ clearance items from a friend and ended up spending 9000rs :S

I already have a cylinder kit (and crankshaft) so wouldn't have to spend again. Bought it two years back immediately after dad bought this bike in Puri.

I agree on small bits pushing up prices though. But they end up playing crucial part. For example fuel tank rubber kit. 3k fuel tank is unusable without Rs.15-20 rubber

It is a nine year old bike which has seen terrible neglect and seaside. So I don't want to do too much hair splitting and retain old parts. Inclined towards replacement than repair.

Nitin, you can opt for a rebore and save a lot. A new bore kit wouldnt cast you less than 8-10k! Same goes for the crank. A new one [ if you are able to find one] should be around 4-5k . You can save here and use it for a new front end.

Bangy has some good rebore and crank job places and i believe you would be making the engine stock so that should do the job.

Use genuine clutch plates. [priced at Rs. 124/- per piece at the showrooms] and O.E steels if needed.

^^ +1 to that. if you can save some here now, you can complete the rest of it. Run the engine for now, and later source new parts, and replace everything.

Nitin, firstly my best wishes for the rebuild.

Coming to the rebuild, my sugesstion would be to completely get the bottom end ready. If you already have CrankShaft assembly then please replace it, but make sure the connecting rod is "2YA", replace the engine bearings too (Yamaha OE or SKF), check the clutch bell assembly, clutch plates, ignition etc.

Regarding top end, my view is, if you have a new cylinder kit available with you, please keep it as stock (for future use). Get a 0.5mm OE "ART" piston kit & rebore. Do the run-in & i am quite sure there will not be much change in performance comapared to STD cylinder Vs. your 2nd O/S cylinder. This is the philosophy i have followed. I have to take care of 2 135s & hence all my spares are doubled (these spares are my personal collection).

Please let me know if i can help you in any way.

I've already purchased the bore kit two years back. So the cost is already incurred I've purchased clutch plates also 2 years back and I think the price was 85 odd/piece. Will go home and update this point with a snap.

All the big ticket items which could have been saved on have already been brought. The current replacement list, I don't have an option. Especially with fork tubes, mudguards, etc. + I want to do this only once.

Thank You Kartik for the wishes. Thats an interesting point you make there regarding con-rod. Will check that tonight after going home. 2YA are Japnese?

The plan around cylinder kit is to get it re-bored at Vijaydeep and buy a 2nd O/S ART (somehow, not sure if I will be able to source it) and keep it as a spare. I would like to use the new cylinder now, when the usage of bike would be more, rather than 5-10 years later when I think I would hardly use it.

Yes, agree with maintaining more than one two-stroke. Investment in spares is crazy. The way I am balancing it is, for RX100 I am stocking up as much as I can. This bike will be with me as long as I am alive. RX135, I will use may be for 5-6 years and if parts are difficult to come by and maintenance becomes a pain I don't mind selling it. Not too keen on spending on maintaining an inventory for RX135. Its just too much of a financial drain.

EDIT: Clutch plates bought at Rs.82/piece in 2009. Now I am wondering
. I Figured out how to upload pics!!!!! Whoa I am a genius. Finally after three years of becoming a member here I am a superstar
Snap

Chassis and silver bits given to painting this afternoon. ETC-1 week.

Wheel rims and few bolts given for chrome plating. ETC-1 week.

Most nuts/bolts junked. Most spokes had to be cut and removed.

Grab rail, exhaust chrome cover, saree guard also could not be salvaged. Rust mahal.

It was a good idea to procure new nuts and bolts. Thank You Ashok for this.

Some spares that would go into this re-build:-




Mudflaps, lockset (with helmet lock), Pricol Speedo Assy, Pilot Lamp Assy, Headlight Rim and cover, OE Horn (Nikko), OE Indicators (not round ones)


Fork Inner Tube set, Catcon exhaust chrome cover (silencer plate), rear brake pedal rods, rear brake pedal, handle bar (Gladiator), Spokes (Hero Honda)



Engine bearings (didn't get the set as it was not in stock and I didn't want to wait), Clutch Dog, wheel bearings, circlips, clutch damper (sprocket rubber), throttle cable, chain adjuster, carb manifold clamp, grip assist (Crux), Lever holder, brake shoe kit, flasher relay, 2T oil lens



Grab Rail, terrible welding/finishing. Thinking of getting another layer of chrome on it if the rate is reasonable, else I will put the black cover on this. Plain lousy part.


Butterfly crashguard. But nothing like the ones that came in the 80s and 90s. These are very short. Butterfly crashguards those days were tall and looked really good.


Cover Upper Stay (kaan) 2sets, 2t oil hoses set, air filter, reed valve, clutch cable, rear mudguard, petrol filter, petrol cock.


Carb manifold joint, number plates, rubber for rear number plate, spring torsion, fork springs, small items, rear shocks (OE-Escorts), foot rest rubber, side stand


I forgot quite a few things. Need to buy them, emblems, stickers, clutch lever, seat assy, etc. Will do over the course of this week.

wow!!! Nithingirish that looks like a maha loot !! super cool.. mouth watering


all the best

Thanks :-)