Day 10 – 28th April, 2013 (Trip to Old Silk Route - East Sikkim)
Started early for the return journey to Sikkim. Crossed the Border and entered India. Enjoyed the scenic beauty of Tea Gardens on the way. As I could not get permit for Nathula Pass so instead of moving to Siliguri to get the permit from Santanu, (as he had taken the task to get permit for me from Gangtok) moved to Sikkim for the Old Silk Route. Road conditions soon started deteriorating after entering the Hi-Way to Sikkim. Had to do some real off-roading for over 40 kms to reach Rongli Police Station by the afternoon. Submitted the documents i.e. RC, Policy, PUC, ID Prof, License etc. to get the permit up to Tshangu Lake which falls within the Restricted and Protected Area of East Sikkim. Got the permit (had to pay Rs. 50/- I don’t know for what ?) and got 5 photocopies for submission on the way. BTW: This permit is issued to Indian nationals only. No foreigners are allowed.
Although the road from Rongli onwards were in much better position, but the weather was not. It soon started raining, Started driving more carefully and on the way crossed many streams on the roads flooded with gushing water, just before my reaching higher ups, a blizzard had uprooted the trees and devastation was seen all along the thick forest area with broken branches and electric poles laying along the route and on the road. My clothes were all wet, the riding jacket was not of much respite in that extreme weather. Had to cross the broken branches/logs all alone with no vehicle passing by. Although at one check post I found the security personnel to stamp the permit but on another there was no body to man the post as nobody was expected to go up in that extreme climate. Took some rest at the check post and had Tea at the nearby Tea stall which was like a panacea in that cold condition. Yet no body turned up to check the permit. So Started moving further and reached Zuluk and booked a room in a hotel.
BTW: The mobile signals were Nil in Zuluk also.
Day 11 - 29th April, 2013 (Trip to Baba Ka Mandir and back to Siliguri)
Early morning had some exciting moments while starting the bike and after some time it came to life. Moved on further all alone for the Tshangu Lake on the old silk route. Soon it started raining but since I was now better prepared, kept on moving. The visibility become almost Zero and it was becoming really tough now to ride on all alone. As I was gaining height, it became colder and colder. After sometime spotted Ice on the Road and it rejuvenated my energy. With more thrill and excitement I was driving in almost Zero Visibility. There are almost 35 curves on this road which are one of the largest on any route on any mountain in the world, but could not enjoy its view due to Zero Visibility. It is one of the reasons the tourists visits this route to view these curves and are a lot more picturesque and a lot more sharper than the Gatta Loops of Ladakh.. Now the mountains were covered with snow all over and riding became more exciting and adventurous. Found some labourers (BRO personnel) repairing the road and had to cross lot of slush and mud. Reached Baba Ka Mandir (at 13000+ feet altitude) and for the first time found one tourist Bolero with few tourists. Had Hot Tea as is customary at every Military Check post, be it Ladakh or Sikkim. Enjoyed good company of the soldiers there and took photographs as the visibility of a lot more better. I enquired the soldiers of any possibility of getting upto Nathula Pass but they also informed that there was no chance of getting upto Nathula Pass because of bad Weather and also because of some administrative reasons.
Since I had been driving for 11 days and had covered a lot of places during this period besides there was also remote chance of getting permit for Gurudongmar Lake in these hostile conditions, I thought it better to return to Siliguri. So started my return journey still in almost Zero Visibility and lots of Snow and after picking up my luggage from Zuluk Hotel moved down towards Siliguri still in the winter clothes covered with Raincoat and all as it was drizzling on the way down also. Reached Siliguri and contacted the Vodafone Office. They informed that I was not getting SMS or any other connectivity as my balance had gone to minus because of international call rates and after recharging the phone again came to life. Had I known it earlier, I would have asked someone at home to recharge it earlier, but my journey had been almost over now. After meeting my Xkmphian members who gifted me a T.Shirt, especially couriered from Kolkata and having a chit chat and thanking them, called it a day at the hotel booked by them. They could still not get the permit for Nathula for me. Hence I decided to return to Delhi the next day.
Pics of OLD S I L K R O U T E
(I could click the picks only when it stopped raining at the top and also inbetween when the visibility improved a bit, otherwise it was complete Zero Visibility throughout and that is why could not click the Zuluk Loops)
These are the only pics I could capture, as it was constantly raining on the second day also when I started from Zuluk to Nathula
Now almost reached Baba Ka Mandir
Reached Baba Ka Mandir
Now on the way to Siliguri
At this point it was near impossible to cross due to heavy flow of water from the waterfall. And a day later, clicked pics of these boys catching fish. This boy caught as many fish whenever caught him on camera.
Now time to upload the Video of Old Silk Route. (As told earlier, the video may not show the exact situation, I had undergone, so captured shots wherever possible)
Wait.........................Picture Abhi Baki Hai





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