Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[Sean Mc'Ken]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Hi guys I need some help... I have found a stock pulsar 180 UG4 CDI... It's DC and I have pulsar 200 dtsi old and it has AC CDI please help me to change my bikes CDI to DC CDI of pulsar 180.... Some wiring help I need

[ashwinprakas]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Hi Guys,

Hoping someone who'd done the mod would be able to confirm/correct my understanding and also answer my queries so that I can go ahead with the modification with full confidence.

My understanding/concerns are;


1. There should be NO continuity between the ground and coils.


2. The two wires that go back to the stator should be connected to either ends of the coil without any possibility of grounding.


3. How is the Pulsar Coil wired, in some instances I see that the Pulsar coil needs to be independently grounded, how do I determine if it needs to be done as such in my motorcycle and if it needs to be done would just grounding it to the case do? Asking because on some bikes I've seen that the Pulsar coil comes with independent wiring in which case I presume that I am supposed to leave it alone.


4. In some specific posts I see that while working with the stator it is advised to not touch the "Ignition Coil", this is something I don't understand, is the reference to the primary ignition coil i.e the one circled in below?





If so, how is the same wired? Is it connected to the coils or does it have independent wiring that leads to the CDI?


As for the RR unit I'm familiar with the wiring(P220) so I'd just get myself a Pulsar's RR unit and rewire the pins.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

message you entered is too short. put at least 10 character message. ??? I am getting this error every time when I am trying to reply to this thread.

My understanding/concerns are;


1. There should be NO continuity between the ground and coils.
Ans - Yes, you are right. A wire from point X goes round & Round on all given poles to point Y without touching any bare metal to complete idle closed circuit. If it accidentally does then Electricity that is generated will find a shorter way through that metal-wire contact to complete the circuit (Elec. Phenomenon) while leaving the rest of the winded wire useless. This results in Massive decrease in current generation considered as Leakage.

2. The two wires that go back to the stator should be connected to either ends of the coil without any possibility of grounding.
Ans- Two wires X&Y from RR unit will directly connect to A&B wire from stator without any hint of ground. Keep checking continuity between bike frame and these wire. If any of two wires (between stator and RR) gets pinched or cut or got touched to metal then again, current will start getting leak from that point.


3. How is the Pulsar Coil wired, in some instances I see that the Pulsar coil needs to be independently grounded, how do I determine if it needs to be done as such in my motorcycle and if it needs to be done would just grounding it to the case do? Asking because on some bikes I've seen that the Pulsar coil comes with independent wiring in which case I presume that I am supposed to leave it alone.
Ans - What do you mean by Pulsar coil? Pulse Generator?
See, Usually stator in stock condition have sometimes 4-5-6 wires.
-2 for Pulse generator (Its own ground + Positive)
- 2 for Ignition coil (Its own ground + red positive)
- 1 for AC Headlight coil going to RR
-1 for battery charging going to RR

All given ground wires at the end are here or there connected to Bikes Frame. Whether it is ignition coil, pulse generator, battery charging or AC headlight, they have separate ground wires of same color but If you check them with DMM then they will show their community with metal.


4. In some specific posts I see that while working with the stator it is advised to not touch the "Ignition Coil", this is something I don't understand, is the reference to the primary ignition coil i.e the one circled in below?
Ans- The phrase is overstressed everywhere. Ignition coil is responsible for generating accurate electricity to feed CDI then Capacitors and then Spark plug to ignite the fuel and thus manufacturers give this ignition pole special treatment of Hard Varnish and Nylon covering (yellow color part in circle you made) to procure it from heat and oil. So DO NOT TOUCH THE IGNITION COIL means just do nothing with it. Keep away your blade or soldering iron from that coil.


If so, how is the same wired? Is it connected to the coils or does it have independent wiring that leads to the CDI?
Ans- Apart from lightning and charging poles and their wires, There will be separate wires soldered on Pulse generator and Ignition coil and going outside of stator/rotor Directly to CDI via wiring Harness. In DC conversion mod, If one understand these things well then He will just rewind all poles (not ignition coil offcorse) with thicker wire, attach it with New powerfull RR unit while leaving Ignition coil and PG wires untouched. Actually No need to understand their function or wire diagram and make things complicated. Just Mind business with other remaining poles.


As for the RR unit I'm familiar with the wiring(P220) so I'd just get myself a Pulsar's RR unit and rewire the pins.

• Can you please post Pulsar 220RR unit showing its wires, Part No. And Specification If you know. I am using OEM APE RR unit which is working absolutely fine past 2 years but show some error after 8k~9k RPM. May be coz it is made for low RPM diesal Engines.
• Hope I am cleared

[ashwinprakas]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

message you entered is too short. put at least 10 character message. ??? I am getting this error every time when I am trying to reply to this thread.

Thank you.

My doubts are cleared, I'm supposed to take the stator out and cut the wires that go to the coil, take out the existing wire and use 19 gauge wire and rewind the coil and connect the RR wires to the two ends of the newly wound wire.

Here's a picture of the P220's RR unit.



In my case both the wires from the RR that connect to both ends of the new 19 gauge wire should be connected to the Blue wires, the red would be connected to the wire that goes to the battery + and the black would obviously be grounded.

So after all the changes are made what would be done to the stock ground wire? I believe it would be there sitting simply without being connected to anything, right?

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Again this error is coming. God. Have to manipulate forum setting to make replies.

So after all the changes are made what would be done to the stock ground wire? I believe it would be there sitting simply without being connected to anything, right?

Glad you understood my words

Let me try with a photo to tell what I have done in my bike.
- See the Image below. There is Thick Black wire Sleeve (Inside RED ) coming from CDI+RR+wiring Harness+neutral light and going inside Alternator compartment. Now this sleeve contain 2 or 3 black color ground wires which do same function, green neutral sensor wire, some blue and red wires from various coils and Pulse Generator (PG).
- I open my stator cover, took photos of everything including wires, desolder all wires, took stator in my hand, came back to my room, unwind stock copper wire, rewind all poles with 17.~ SWG wire which gives me two free ends. I solder these two free ends with 3~4mm Havels house wire (yellow) with 1m length, Installed stator back inside its housing and arranging safe passage for havels wire.
- Now solderd all stock wires back to there place (4 wires- Ignition positive & ground, PG positive & ground) except pole/lightning/charging wires. I shortened them and taped them and left it there doing nothing.
- Then carefully made place in rubber gormet to pass havels wires coming from NEW REWIND, installed stator assembly back onto engine and taped Havels wire with Black sleev. You can see YELLOW wires at rubber gormet in green circle in photo and then hooked these two ends to RR unit. (Blue wires in your case)
- Thus stock wires are connected to PG and ignition coil, going to CDI and stock RR through stock Black sleeve. You see? no need to do anything to them.

- RR positive wire should be connected directly to battery with 10A fuse in between to reduce possible resistance. and Black wire to Battery negative terminal if possible.

[ATTACH]242550[/ATTACH]

I don;t know what Bike do you have and current setup. But once you make your bike battery getting charge by more current successfully then it would become very easy to put HL onto battery.
Steps - (for 55/60w bulb, No need of relay for 35w bulb)
On KICK side of bike, between tank and Handel, where your wiring harness couple sits, you will see a GREEN color (most probably) 3 pin connector. Unplug it, cut the yellow wire(most probably stock AC HL feed), tape it and left it idle. Install a Relay(hope you know this step), and feed HL switch with relay. Thats it.
- After DCed your bike, your HL switch will become dead as it is still getting feed from AC wire but you have removed your AC setup right, So you cut the AC wire and feed the HL switch connector with 12v wire coming from battery/relay. This can be explained if you feel confused.

[arya809]

Re: Bajaj UG2, UG3 Gen Engine Stator Coil

*
Moreover, nowdays almost all motorcycle comes with complete DC setup so they don't require Coil rewinding unless they want to put beefy HIDs or willing to put their hands on Morimoto projectors.

You rightly pointed out that the info is scattered across hundreds of pages on this thread. I blindly bought Honda Unicorn 160 1 year back without any research. I wouldn't have bought it if I had known earlier that it had AC headlight setup. As a matter of fact, Honda is still providing AC headlight in all vehicles except CBR series. Hence, my queries:

1. Do I have to follow the same steps as on the page 1? Or are there some other advances/mods since then? Note this Unicorn is a BS 4 model, I don't know whether it changes anything or not, just stating the fact.

2. I live in Jodhpur (Raj.) and I am pretty sure there are no expert guys here who can rewind motorcycle stator coils. Can I give it to amateurs or do it myself? What are the important factors to keep in mind while rewinding?

3. In case Piaggio SVC is reluctant to sell the Ape RR, is there any other brand's/model's RR I can fit in the unicorn?

4. The battery is a puny 3.5 AH one. Is there any danger of overcharging or such in case the stator produces high wattage constantly?

[Toshar Deven]

Answers in Bold

You rightly pointed out that the info is scattered across hundreds of pages on this thread. I blindly bought Honda Unicorn 160 1 year back without any research. I wouldn't have bought it if I had known earlier that it had AC headlight setup. As a matter of fact, Honda is still providing AC headlight in all vehicles except CBR series. Hence, my queries:


1. Do I have to follow the same steps as on the page 1? Or are there some other advances/mods since then? Note this Unicorn is a BS 4 model, I don't know whether it changes anything or not, just stating the fact.

- I have no idea about Honda Engines. Bajaj Discover 135 and Pulsar 135 engine are way different from each others so may be your engine is different from previous generation engines or whatever is shown on thread starting. Going with this DIY is easy if taken care, complicated task is whether user (you here) knows what he is doing, If he knows wiring diagram of his vehicle, his overall knowledge with electrical and enthusiasm inside him to keep going, patience and troubleshooting if something goes wrong. I advice you to take a paper and pen and write everything to make long-term job easy FOR YOU ONLY. Remove tank, seat and start tracing your wires. Where is your CDI, BCU (if it equips), stock alternator, wires from stator to RR unit, number of wires, etc etc etc. Write down everything on paper then think how you will proceed. Then remove alternator case (LHS engine cover) to see the actual alternator. Some Engines do have engine oil in this compartment too so check before proceeding otherwise all your oil will spread. Better to drain in and store it during the job and refill it later. Hope you have enough tools to proceed.

2. I live in Jodhpur (Raj.) and I am pretty sure there are no expert guys here who can rewind motorcycle stator coils. Can I give it to amateurs or do it myself? What are the important factors to keep in mind while rewinding?

- I live in New Delhi and there are no expert guys here too who even can understand this job. I strictly recommend to do the job yourself. This is a performance upgrade and any carelessness towards the rewinding will reduce performance by atleast 70% margin from stock. Winding guys who rewind water pump or cooler motor wont do it because bike stators are different from those regular shape stators and If the do, they wont care for maximum possible number of turn which is the ULTIMATE AIM of stator rewinding. Factors can be shared later, better to read and understand your bike wiring before. Rewinding everything and finding a hindrance later will bring disappointment.

3. In case Piaggio SVC is reluctant to sell the Ape RR, is there any other brand's/model's RR I can fit in the unicorn?

- Go through thread pages from 120 onwards. You will find needed information and people who are using alternative RR. Yes there are alternatives of APE RR.

4. The battery is a puny 3.5 AH one. Is there any danger of overcharging or such in case the stator produces high wattage constantly?

- Switch to atleast 5Ah or 9Ah after few months of this job. NO, There is no risk is rewinding is done properly. No, There is nothing like "overcharging" if RR unit is premium and branded. Whatever current is produce by your new stator is being used by headlight or other accessories. Only a fraction will go to battery because with upgraded stator, battery remain charge all the time.
Do not blame your choice or Bike for being with AC headlight setup. There are more things like overall build quality, engine and looks which honda offered you. You can upgrade the Headlights anyday. If you think you have bought the bike without any research, then do the research now for DC conversion. Even I think I could buy muscular Hero Hunk 10 years ago but let it be.

Moreover, you can contact DVJ Auto - Kolkata based guys who knows these types of work. Just pay for their service and they will sought out your problems, they provide biXenon setups too.

[arya809]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

@Toshar Deven

Thanks a lot, your reply was really helpful and mature. One query every noob must have asked here: Why not connect the stock headlight bulb directly to battery (with a switch, relay and fuse)? Why to goto the trouble of changing RR, rewinding etc when all we want is headlight bulb directly running on battery?

Also note, in my case, the stock bulb is 35W H4 and the LED H4 bulbs which I buy/will buy from aliexpress consume at the most 20W (they exaggerate power figures but guys actually measure it and find it to be 12-18 watts only). Hence I guess I CAN directly connect the LED H4 bulb in my Unicorn to the battery without losing battery charge?

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

@Toshar Deven

Thanks a lot, your reply was really helpful and mature. One query every noob must have asked here: Why not connect the stock headlight bulb directly to battery (with a switch, relay and fuse)? Why to goto the trouble of changing RR, rewinding etc when all we want is headlight bulb directly running on battery?

Also note, in my case, the stock bulb is 35W H4 and the LED H4 bulbs which I buy/will buy from aliexpress consume at the most 20W (they exaggerate power figures but guys actually measure it and find it to be 12-18 watts only). Hence I guess I CAN directly connect the LED H4 bulb in my Unicorn to the battery without losing battery charge?

Thank You for the appreciation. It took me around 1 and half year to understand bike electrical, alternator modification and I spent two weeks of my college days in reading each and every page of this thread, also failed multiple times with money wasted, though I have learnt a lot and my AIM was to get the best and maximum possible light from my bike in which i succeeded.

Q- Why not connect the stock headlight bulb directly to battery??
A- stock bulb consumes 35 watts, but stock alternator gives only about 20 watts. If bulb directly connected to battery, it will work for 20 minutes or so and then battery will get completely drain. Why? You are taking 2.91 amps from bat and giving it just 1.6 amps as charging. Justice? NO.
So you rewind stator so that it produce 60 watts or 5 amps which makes the battery and bulb both running for as long as you want. If bulb takes power from battery, the only advantage we get is flicker free light at low RPMs. Worth it? NO. Mostly and usually people rewind stators to run HID or LED lamps which requires battery as power source.

Infact, You should plug that AExp led bulb to your HL and test it for several days and also change all indicators bulb with LED too to save power. After few days, if everything is fine then keep running on it and If you get light flicker then go with rewinding. Whatever I typed in my previous post is for serious HL power source which is must to have for night touring. I didn't knew that you want to DC your bike for LED bulb.

[ankurology]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Hello xbhpians, i am little confused about the stock wires and fz 16 RR UNIT pins

My pulsar 2005 UG2 has 5 stock wires going from plug to stator, 2 blue white wires, one red (which is ignition coil wire), one yellow red( light wire) which will be of no use after coil winding, one black wire for ground, pulse will remain same.
I was thinking of using two blue white wires from stock plug direct to free floating coil and remove the stock regulator with fz regulator.
Though i cannot figure out which of 4 pins of fz regulator are dc output and ac input.

If i keep stock wires as it is and just remove stock rr and replace it with fz will that stock wiring work???

Sorry for my bad english..

[dk5096]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Well many have accomplished this successfully on their bikes and the entire source of information is available in xbhp itself but it is scattered through out in many threads so putting up all together in one place.

Let me start this with bikes like Unicorn/CBZ/Xtreme and any other which has single phase coil. I will leave the explanation part of Pulsar’s to Sajan and Abhi who are good at it and also the back bone behind accomplishing this successfully .
The job is pretty much simple on bikes mentioned above.
First of all the coil rewind done from a reputed auto electrician. In Bangalore, Ruby electricals would be a better place. Ask them just to rewind the coil without RR Unit change.
Once the rewinding is done, tell them to remove the ground from coil. Just have a look at the below image. The coil end will be connected to ground/body and green wire will be connected to body/ground. (Red Dots) De-Solder both the terminals from ground and connect it directly. i.e connect the coil wire and green wire directly removing the connection from ground (Yellow Line).





Now once the ground is removed, figure out the Green wire coming from Pulse generator, disconnect it and ground it to body.Check stock diagram and changed diagram so that u can identify easily.
Stock Wiring




Modified wiring with APE RR



Once this is done, don’t connect the Coil Connector to Wiring Harness; instead connect it to APE RR Unit connectors Grey color wire in APE RR picture. (Generally its direct fit connector atleast for Unicorn). Connect the yellow wire of APE RR to +ve of Battery and Black to –ve of battery. Remove the stock RR unit and preserve it safely or just disconnect it and leave it as it is. Check the above picture.

That’s it..!! Voila you are done

APE RR Unit.


Complete Wiring for Headlight including relay. (Put up by Sajan)



Approx Cost Involved.
APE RR OEM - 1100rs
APE RR Delhi Made (Not recommended) - 600rs
Coil Rewinding - 600-800rs

Regarding APE RR unit, people please do go in for an OEM RR unit of APE else you might face a serious problem somewhere in mid-road without lights !!
Use of doing all DC -

Hassle/flicker free riding at night with higher watt bulb/HID

Hi Shreeni,

Please provide the link to buy the APE RR if it is available online.

[kjayakannan]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

To upgrade Yamaha RX100 Wiring system to 90/100W then How to add the APE RR unit into it? Want to understand the existing stock wiring set up and after rewinding?

Yamaha RX100 stock plate is below for your reference.

5 wires from the plate

1. White red - wire from pick up coil to cdi
2. Black red - wire from source coil to cdi
3. Black - wire grounded in plate
4. Blue - wire neutral from neutral light switch in engine
5. White - wire from charging coil to stock RR (3 pin connector)
6. Yellow RED - wire from lighting coil to HW headlight and tail light

In Yamaha RX100, lighting and charging coil are in same pole. i.e inner and outer copper winding.

Pictures attached for your reference.

Now tell me how I can rewind the charging/ lighting coil and then to connect the APE RR?

1. Remove the stock winding from current pole and make it single coil using 19 gauge copper. Then take the both ends to APE RR with out grounding in plate.

2. If above is true then how headlight & taillight has to be connected. Since earlier we have two coils in one pole (white and yellow red wires & yellow red is connected to head & tail). but after rewinding it will be one coil (white for 1 end & other end 2 to yellow red wire).

So how the existing wiring will work for head & tali lights?


Is it correct? Won't be harm the Wiring harness system since existing was taken from two coils on same pole?

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

To


Is it correct? Won't be harm the Wiring harness system since existing was taken from two coils on same pole?ACH]247996[/ATTACH]

Since no one made any reply to your post, what is the current status of your DC setup? Will make replies accordingly. Also, always try to tag people that were active in few last posts.
You have quoted the very first posts of the thread which was written few YEARS ago, those persons are inactive that's why you are not getting replies.

[kjayakannan]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Since no one made any reply to your post, what is the current status of your DC setup? Will make replies accordingly. Also, always try to tag people that were active in few last posts.
You have quoted the very first posts of the thread which was written few YEARS ago, those persons are inactive that's why you are not getting replies.

Bike is in Run in period and I havent done yet. waiting for someone help.

[babybiker125]

Need to install HID for discover 125

Hello Guys,

I am posting after a long time, I want to increase my headlight output of my discover 125 2015 model.
Now I don't know if my bike is AC or DC but the headlight works without engine running, and I can also kick start the bike after removing battery. I am looking to install a HID kit or a 55w halogen bulb. Do I need to rewind my stator coil? If yes, then can I use the stock RR with rewinded coil? I asked the mechanics at SVC but they are not ready to do the job. They are saying if I rewind the coil it can melt the wiring harness and bulbs can blow, is that right? Can I just rewind the coil and not change the RR? Is APE RR necessary? I am ok with little flickering of light. My battery size is 5ah. And are the HID kits sold at aliexpress any good? Please help me.

Thanks and Regards,
Akash.

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