Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

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Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

My friend owns a suzuki access 125 bs 4 model, and would like to convert his scooter to full wave DC. Which i assumes involves removing the lighting coil tap {no lighting tap on access bs 4 coil} and removing the coil ground to make it a floating coil.

As for RR reading through the the thread i gather the RR available in market are the 1. APE RR 2.P180 UG 4 RR are there any other RR which can be bought?

I would like to know beforehand so that i can buy the one available in the market without having to go there twice!

Also from the pic i received frnd he friend,i drew a diagram. following are the connector color coding for the bs 4 access, Will also be upgrading the battery to an 5 Ah one from the 3ah now!

Updated the image with wiring color coding.

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Has anyone come across Ape RR made by Minda and Varroc? Minda RR-8002 and Varroc REGR APEN PI65 Cheaper than the OEM RR.

Not going for APE as my primary concern is switching to DC and running an 35 Watt led headlight that's it.

The thread seems inactive, i'll update my progress any way so that anyone wanting to convert their Suzuki Access to DC might find it useful.

Suzuki access BS 4 has a 12 pole single phase stator with single ac output, no lighting coil output tap. they use a RR which outputs regulated via a grey wire to the ac powered headlight etc

In stock condition the stator uses a 20 SWG wire with about 52 turns on each pole.

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I have rewinded it using 19 SWG and put a contact point made of aluminum rivet to connect other point of the coil as this was using a single wire to output AC. It's a tight fit and glued in place with fevikwik 203 cyanoacrylate adhesive.

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The coil on the ACCESS is quite capable and will work even if you don't rewind it, but i still did it incase i decide to load it a little more. Also the BS 4 access stator is not inside the sealed shut crankcase, its just covered with a plastic cover so removing the coil is hassle free.

Also i will be using a Gixxer 155 RR as i find it to be quite beefy (Heavier & Bigger Heatsink) compared to Yamaha SZR and Fazer, fz 16 etc Also anyone thinking of using fz RR should be careful as it has fused and conducted AC to the instrument cluster etc and killed it for a lot of people. Gixxer 155 has a 5 pin RR but only 4 are used on the bike, and 4 will be used on the access. As long as you don't put insane amount of load like above 90 watts it will be fine. Who uses HID these days anyway? LED Headlight upto 55/60 w will work easily, roughly 7 amps in total load.Will help converting rest to LED leaving turn signals aside as they are used intermittently.

The rewinding 19 swg wire cost me around 150 for 200 gms and some varnish ans shrink,sleeves totaling to under 250.

Will update more as i get time to work on it more.

We have Suzuki Lets Bs4. Recently noticed that the headlight light output is low, when measured got only 7 to 7.5 volts where I expected 12 volts for light. When measured the battery charging voltage it measures 14.4 volts. Swapped RR unit from Suzuki service centre to check if the Headlight voltage improved but there is no gain, so switch back to the original one.

From the wiring diagram, looks like there is no seperate lighting coil and there are 12 poles in the parts manual, similar to the ones mentioned in the quoted post. Single wire from the strator connects to the RR +ve side which is also charges the battery. So looks like either RR is intentionally reducing the voltage to 7.5 volts for headlight AC circuit or Strator is not producing enough voltage. Don't think the later is the case since the charging output is 14.4 volts. Do you have any thoughts on this?

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This is the wiring diagram of Lets with the magneto from parts catalogue. Also thinking of using some DC RR with capacitor. Is it possible to use Gixer's if it's a direct fit?