Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[Abhi6481]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Carefully observe you stator for its wiring and trace the wiring path from stator to CDI/RR unit. This way you will come to know what color wires you need to isolate from one point to another. The process is very simple if you know the wires as wires can be of different color or they might get faded with time and heat.
Use digital multimeter to check continuity between wires.

Pulse generator in your case (or in above picture) is that small black box with two wires (green and blue) on the upper left side of the photo. It is tightly secured using two screws and sits above rotor magnet. AFAIK When rotor rotates, it read its rotational speed (or a fixed point on rotor) using a small sensor and tells CDI to direct current in spark plug when piston is on top of cylinder. You don't need to do anything to it.

I don't have much idea about Hero stator and its CDI, but basically you have to do is take just two wires and connect them to both ends of the coil using soldering iron. Bring these two wires outside of the stator case and then connect them with each Gray wire of Ape RR. Ape yellow to positive and black to good ground or negetive of battery.
If something gets wrong, you bike won't start as Hero bikes uses same coil to power spark plugs.

If Still unsure then let me know, I will make pictures to make you understand. Please post photos of your stator coil with clear view of it.

Thank you for helping

Unfortunately I have fixed stator to bike..so dont have pics . I have solder two wires as per shown photos in above post. Wires coming from stator connected directly to new RR gray wires ( direct fit for cbz xtreme? Connected yellow wires to positive n black to negative terminal of battery. Yes you are right... my bike is not starting now..so connected stator wires to wiring harness again leaving the APE RR as it is.
I think my battery is not charging now already done headlight direct from ignition wires.. So my cbz is just lying in my parking to get wiring issue fixed.

My only concern is..if we connect stator wires to APE RR directly.. n APE RR to battery... how wiring harness will get power?? As we have removed connection stator how wiring harness, spark plug will get power? I know this might be really stupid question...but unfortunately I am good at mechanical parts only.. need your expert advice to fix this issue.. any help would be appreciated.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Thank you for helping

My only concern is..if we connect stator wires to APE RR directly.. n APE RR to battery... how wiring harness will get power?? As we have removed connection stator how wiring harness, spark plug will get power? I know this might be really stupid question...but unfortunately I am good at mechanical parts only.. need your expert advice to fix this issue.. any help would be appreciated.

See, (I am still imagining the hero stator) on your stator, there are two parts. 1st is pulse generator, which gives pulse signal to CDI using two wires -say wire X and wire Y. 2nd part is 8 poles of the stator which are connected to each other in series with a single copper wire running from pole 1 to pole 8. Now there are two end of this single looooong copper wire, 1st end is at 1st pole and 2nd end at last 8th pole which is grounded to the stator.
Now in stock setup, there is a wire connected to 1st end -say wire A and one wire is connected to ground or last pole end -say wire B.
So in total, there are 4 wires. X & Y from Pulse Gen. and A & B from Stator coil. These 4 wires are coming out of stator case to a 4 wire connector which gets connect to wiring harness. Inside WH, X & Y are giving signals to CDI whereas A & B are powering stock RR unit which is regulating current to charge battery and also proving AC current to Ac bulbs. Also, CDI is getting power directly from battery.

- Here, what you have done as described is desolder 8th pole end from the stator and desolder wire B from the stator and then connect B and 8Th end together without touching them to the stator. Now in this case, anything going into wire A will come out directly from wire B as nothing is connected to the ground/stator.
- Now cut the green wire (X or Y) from the pulse generator and connect it to the nearest screw to make it ground.

*Now have a look at the 4 pin connector**

- Connector consist all four wires ie A & B and X & Y. Carefully cut wires A & B 2 inches below that connector and connect them to gray wires of APE RR. Insert the connector with wire X & Y into the wiring harness which will provide pulse signal to CDi through WH. Meanwhile battery will get its charge from A & B through APE RR which will also provide power to CDI.

-See, CDI gets its power from battery on Hero/Honda case but gets required signals from Pulse Gen. through WH. Just giving the voltage or pulse signals to the CDI wont make it work. It requires both to power the spark plugs. So you also have to connect the X & Y to WH using default connector.

NOTE :-

-Above setup are only applicable if there are only 4 wires coming out of the stator in stock condition. If there is any other wire apart from X & Y and A & B coming out then you have to track it to find its function.
- No need to touch stock wires going into stock RR. Let it be connected to WH.
- Are you sure if your battery is enough charged to power the CDi? Check its voltage with multimeter, try kick start the vehicle with 1/4 throttle input. Or take your friend's battery to check these things. Disconnect headlight wire from ignition as of now. Let the battery charge first.
- You already have completed 80% of this job. I was also in the same boat when i started the mod few months ago and at that time, this thread was badly dead. You have came this far now and its seems your points are clear thats why you are putting your logics here. Keep try to make it work.

-You are good at mechanics? I am finding it difficult to source keihin 38s size pilot jet for my discover 135 carb. Any idea?

Hope I am clear

[Abhi6481]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

See, (I am still imagining the hero stator) on your stator, there are two parts. 1st is pulse generator, which gives pulse signal to CDI using two wires -say wire X and wire Y. 2nd part is 8 poles of the stator which are connected to each other in series with a single copper wire running from pole 1 to pole 8. Now there are two end of this single looooong copper wire, 1st end is at 1st pole and 2nd end at last 8th pole which is grounded to the stator.
Now in stock setup, there is a wire connected to 1st end -say wire A and one wire is connected to ground or last pole end -say wire B.
So in total, there are 4 wires. X & Y from Pulse Gen. and A & B from Stator coil. These 4 wires are coming out of stator case to a 4 wire connector which gets connect to wiring harness. Inside WH, X & Y are giving signals to CDI whereas A & B are powering stock RR unit which is regulating current to charge battery and also proving AC current to Ac bulbs. Also, CDI is getting power directly from battery.

- Here, what you have done as described is desolder 8th pole end from the stator and desolder wire B from the stator and then connect B and 8Th end together without touching them to the stator. Now in this case, anything going into wire A will come out directly from wire B as nothing is connected to the ground/stator.
- Now cut the green wire (X or Y) from the pulse generator and connect it to the nearest screw to make it ground.

*Now have a look at the 4 pin connector**

- Connector consist all four wires ie A & B and X & Y. Carefully cut wires A & B 2 inches below that connector and connect them to gray wires of APE RR. Insert the connector with wire X & Y into the wiring harness which will provide pulse signal to CDi through WH. Meanwhile battery will get its charge from A & B through APE RR which will also provide power to CDI.

-See, CDI gets its power from battery on Hero/Honda case but gets required signals from Pulse Gen. through WH. Just giving the voltage or pulse signals to the CDI wont make it work. It requires both to power the spark plugs. So you also have to connect the X & Y to WH using default connector.

NOTE :-

-Above setup are only applicable if there are only 4 wires coming out of the stator in stock condition. If there is any other wire apart from X & Y and A & B coming out then you have to track it to find its function.
- No need to touch stock wires going into stock RR. Let it be connected to WH.
- Are you sure if your battery is enough charged to power the CDi? Check its voltage with multimeter, try kick start the vehicle with 1/4 throttle input. Or take your friend's battery to check these things. Disconnect headlight wire from ignition as of now. Let the battery charge first.
- You already have completed 80% of this job. I was also in the same boat when i started the mod few months ago and at that time, this thread was badly dead. You have came this far now and its seems your points are clear thats why you are putting your logics here. Keep try to make it work.

-You are good at mechanics? I am finding it difficult to source keihin 38s size pilot jet for my discover 135 carb. Any idea?

Hope I am clear

Oh mann... superb explaination..thanks a ton... This weekend I will give a try.. I am very much clear now. Hope it will solve my issue
For my bike 3 wires connected to one socket with output for 2 wires and one single wire.
I will check if I can find out Keihin carb for you and will update you. Thanks again.

[Abhi6481]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

See, (I am still imagining the hero stator) on your stator, there are two parts. 1st is pulse generator, which gives pulse signal to CDI using two wires -say wire X and wire Y. 2nd part is 8 poles of the stator which are connected to each other in series with a single copper wire running from pole 1 to pole 8. Now there are two end of this single looooong copper wire, 1st end is at 1st pole and 2nd end at last 8th pole which is grounded to the stator.
Now in stock setup, there is a wire connected to 1st end -say wire A and one wire is connected to ground or last pole end -say wire B.
So in total, there are 4 wires. X & Y from Pulse Gen. and A & B from Stator coil. These 4 wires are coming out of stator case to a 4 wire connector which gets connect to wiring harness. Inside WH, X & Y are giving signals to CDI whereas A & B are powering stock RR unit which is regulating current to charge battery and also proving AC current to Ac bulbs. Also, CDI is getting power directly from battery.

- Here, what you have done as described is desolder 8th pole end from the stator and desolder wire B from the stator and then connect B and 8Th end together without touching them to the stator. Now in this case, anything going into wire A will come out directly from wire B as nothing is connected to the ground/stator.
- Now cut the green wire (X or Y) from the pulse generator and connect it to the nearest screw to make it ground.

*Now have a look at the 4 pin connector**

- Connector consist all four wires ie A & B and X & Y. Carefully cut wires A & B 2 inches below that connector and connect them to gray wires of APE RR. Insert the connector with wire X & Y into the wiring harness which will provide pulse signal to CDi through WH. Meanwhile battery will get its charge from A & B through APE RR which will also provide power to CDI.

-See, CDI gets its power from battery on Hero/Honda case but gets required signals from Pulse Gen. through WH. Just giving the voltage or pulse signals to the CDI wont make it work. It requires both to power the spark plugs. So you also have to connect the X & Y to WH using default connector.

NOTE :-

-Above setup are only applicable if there are only 4 wires coming out of the stator in stock condition. If there is any other wire apart from X & Y and A & B coming out then you have to track it to find its function.
- No need to touch stock wires going into stock RR. Let it be connected to WH.
- Are you sure if your battery is enough charged to power the CDi? Check its voltage with multimeter, try kick start the vehicle with 1/4 throttle input. Or take your friend's battery to check these things. Disconnect headlight wire from ignition as of now. Let the battery charge first.
- You already have completed 80% of this job. I was also in the same boat when i started the mod few months ago and at that time, this thread was badly dead. You have came this far now and its seems your points are clear thats why you are putting your logics here. Keep try to make it work.

-You are good at mechanics? I am finding it difficult to source keihin 38s size pilot jet for my discover 135 carb. Any idea?

Hope I am clear

One last query... now I have to cut green wire coming from pulse generator n ground it (consider X from X & Y wires). And you are saying I need to i need to connect X & Y to WH. So I need to ground X and same wire to WH also? Correct?

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

One last query... now I have to cut green wire coming from pulse generator n ground it (consider X from X & Y wires). And you are saying I need to i need to connect X & Y to WH. So I need to ground X and same wire to WH also? Correct?

-Exactly. There are many many wires inside WH which are connected to ground/body at different point internally. Cut that green (X) wire leaving 1 inch and connect it to the same nearby screw. As per HERO, green wires are coded as ground wire.
Please follow these two which pictures where i have mentioned wires with their imaginary names. As this method is already tried and tested so it should work in your case too.

- Stator in bajaj bikes, where ignition coil, charging coil and AC light coils are separately wounded, they too use multiple ground wires may be to reduce internal flux or electronic noise. I still don't know much about HERO stators but logically they are 80% simpler in design and construction and thats why conversion of Hero bikes into full DC setup is not that difficult. Also, use stock 35w HL bulb initially to check your conversion setup.

- This is stock setup, where A B and X Y going directly to WH and ending up at RR and CDi unit respectively. (Note - B and X shares same wire)


- Here you isolate A B wires to Ape RR. Now X wire coming out of PG is not connected to any ground wire, so connect it to ground. Tape any other left wire.
Just go with the picture for now and let me know the result

[Abhi6481]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

-Exactly. There are many many wires inside WH which are connected to ground/body at different point internally. Cut that green (X) wire leaving 1 inch and connect it to the same nearby screw. As per HERO, green wires are coded as ground wire.
Please follow these two which pictures where i have mentioned wires with their imaginary names. As this method is already tried and tested so it should work in your case too.

- Stator in bajaj bikes, where ignition coil, charging coil and AC light coils are separately wounded, they too use multiple ground wires may be to reduce internal flux or electronic noise. I still don't know much about HERO stators but logically they are 80% simpler in design and construction and thats why conversion of Hero bikes into full DC setup is not that difficult. Also, use stock 35w HL bulb initially to check your conversion setup.

- This is stock setup, where A B and X Y going directly to WH and ending up at RR and CDi unit respectively. (Note - B and X shares same wire)
[ATTACH]236346[/ATTACH]

- Here you isolate A B wires to Ape RR. Now X wire coming out of PG is not connected to any ground wire, so connect it to ground. Tape any other left wire.
Just go with the picture for now and let me know the result
[ATTACH]236347[/ATTACH]

Yes..now its clear... I will follow the diagram and will let you know the result. You have great patience and knowledge to explain small details. . This weekend I will search about carb in local market n let you know guru. Thanks mate!

[Toshar Deven]

Bajaj UG2, UG3 Gen Engine Stator Coil

*This is a Reference information about the stator coil of Bajaj Avenger 180 which can be fixed on UG2 and UG3 Generation Engine Bikes.

- This thread is almost dead because lots of people have already done Coil up-gradation long ago for their bikes. With more then 130 pages, finding information on this thread is a difficult and time consuming task as everything is now scattered on different pages. Moreover, nowdays almost all motorcycle comes with complete DC setup so they don't require Coil rewinding unless they want to put beefy HIDs or willing to put their hands on Morimoto projectors.

- This post is for those people who still want to update their electrical system to full DC on their UG2 and UG3 Gen bikes. Well, coil rewinding, sourcing Ape RR and understanding wiring patterns in not that difficult for the person with enthusiasm but it is still better to have something as Backup.
It is highly recommend by senior moderators to not to alter stock alternator, instead go with a new Stator and then rewind it so that there will always a stock backup lying around you which know is working in case of winding failure.

- Re-winded coils can easily produce upto 4 times the power of stock stator is winded well but their is always a risk factor present inside it. Because of ultimate heat, vibrations and other factors, Stock insulation can go crack which results in touching of copper wire to the iron stator causing short circuit which is almost impossible to find with 420+ turns of tightly packed wire.
So, whoever now willing to rewind their stator to extract more power, should buy a new stator, unwind in carefully and then go with rewinding process.
Reason? Till now, your stock stator plastic insulation have already gone hard and brittle along with time because of heat around it. Unwinding it now may cause that insulation break easily and exposing bare metal which might become a reason of short circuit inside a coil and eventually loss of electrical power.

***Soultion***

- Go and buy a 540 rupees stator coil from Bajaj SVC, Part no. DV111005. It ACTUALLY comes with bigger bobbins, have large brims almost equal to size of that of ignition coil and somewhat harder insulation. Unwinding the stock wire with care wont cause any damage to it because insulation will still be new and intact. Rewinding this coil will let you achieve atleast 25 more turns per pole that is 25x7= whopping 175 turns. I myself winded this coil with 17.5 awg thick wire and achieved 82~ turns per pole ie ~ 570 turns in total. Getting 10+ amps of current on just 4k RPM and happily running 55W Hella G3 bixenon projector on my discover 135 like a boss. Done +10K kilometers with it and still running strong.

- Thus, go with a new stator coil for rewinding and keep old one as backup. You can also use your vehicle during the rewinding process whereas rewinding the stock coil will ground your bike for a day or two until rewinding and drying of varnish.

- This is a picture of stator coil (of UG2,3 Engines) with its dimension ( iron core X-ray Image done myself, pardon for image quality). Any Bajaj user willing to rewind their coil, should measure their stock coil dimensions first. If stock coil dimensions are same as of shown in this picture, then go and directly buy Part no. DV111005 as it is a direct physical fit inside your case too.


- For Users with Newer Generation Bajaj Engines that are already producing DC, who are willing to update their coil, should also check their coil dimension and Go with compatible one. AFAIK Discover ST, P135LS, D150 shares stator coil with new Avenger 150 or 180 or Pulsar AS150 which all comes with 55/60w Headlight setup. Swapping their coils along with their RR will be a direct fir.
Note- Be-aware of BCU of you bike. Old schools users like me are not familiar with BCU or CANBUS setups.

[M.R.B]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Hello All,

I have a first Gen Apache 150. Can anyone help me to convert it to full DC in Bangalore. I live in Hormavu Agara. Additionally is there any recommendation for someone who can do it for me please.

[ntchrist]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Hello Friends,

I am unable to obtain the Ape RR in Mumbai, seems there is a new model available with extra set of wires. I have apache 160 hyper edge bs3 model. Can someone please recommend any alternate RR unit that can be used for DC conversion and also any one who can get this done in Mumbai..any help would be appreciated.. Thank you

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Hello All,

I have a first Gen Apache 150. Can anyone help me to convert it to full DC in Bangalore. I live in Hormavu Agara. Additionally is there any recommendation for someone who can do it for me please.

The contact# for Ruby Electricals: 9944138274
Contact person: Kennedy

They are marathahalli based i guess.

They have converted many bikes to DC setup and charge little less then 2k. You can contact them.

I got this from a post wrote in 2010 -- if you are coming from hosur road, from lal bagh main gate,go towards left and a sudden turn comes. there you can see the sign board of ruby electricals. you may not see the shop from the road. If any plan to rewind coil plate, they have their own work shop a bit far, walkable distance, to remove the coil plate. Just ask the guy at ruby electricals and they will show you the work shop. Ruby electrical guys will accept only coil plate and other stuffs. they dont have any mechanic there to remove and attach things. Hope this helps. Contact# 26578828.
For coil re winding and a custom made rectifier i paid 950 rs

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Hello Friends,

I am unable to obtain the Ape RR in Mumbai, seems there is a new model available with extra set of wires. I have apache 160 hyper edge bs3 model. Can someone please recommend any alternate RR unit that can be used for DC conversion and also any one who can get this done in Mumbai..any help would be appreciated.. Thank you

The Ape RR have two versions AFAIK. One without the white connector with red wire, the part number of this one is ED22158 and the part name is REGULATOR, other one with the red wire and white connector is named VOLTAGE REGULATOR and part number is ED33204. The Ape RR Unit costs 1500 rupees the last time I checked, earlier it was around 1100 rupees. The red colored wire with white connector was earlier connected to ammeter to show the battery charge, now-a-days it is connected to a light which glows when the battery is not charging, you can safely ignore this wire or just buy the one without the red wire.

Both Ape RR are same in functioning its just that new RR is more robust and can provide current data to Amp meters installed in new APe auto rikshaw.
Nowdays all most all bikes comes with DC setup.You can use Pulsar UG4 or UG5 RR or Old Yamaha FZ16 because they all the stocked DC. Do not use AS150 RR as lastest bikes comes with 3-phase alternator.
Ape RR is bit costly but is tried and tested RR thus recommended.

[ntchrist]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

The contact# for Ruby Electricals: 9944138274
Contact person: Kennedy

They are marathahalli based i guess.

They have converted many bikes to DC setup and charge little less then 2k. You can contact them.

I got this from a post wrote in 2010 -- if you are coming from hosur road, from lal bagh main gate,go towards left and a sudden turn comes. there you can see the sign board of ruby electricals. you may not see the shop from the road. If any plan to rewind coil plate, they have their own work shop a bit far, walkable distance, to remove the coil plate. Just ask the guy at ruby electricals and they will show you the work shop. Ruby electrical guys will accept only coil plate and other stuffs. they dont have any mechanic there to remove and attach things. Hope this helps. Contact# 26578828.
For coil re winding and a custom made rectifier i paid 950 rs

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



The Ape RR have two versions AFAIK. One without the white connector with red wire, the part number of this one is ED22158 and the part name is REGULATOR, other one with the red wire and white connector is named VOLTAGE REGULATOR and part number is ED33204. The Ape RR Unit costs 1500 rupees the last time I checked, earlier it was around 1100 rupees. The red colored wire with white connector was earlier connected to ammeter to show the battery charge, now-a-days it is connected to a light which glows when the battery is not charging, you can safely ignore this wire or just buy the one without the red wire.

Both Ape RR are same in functioning its just that new RR is more robust and can provide current data to Amp meters installed in new APe auto rikshaw.
Nowdays all most all bikes comes with DC setup.You can use Pulsar UG4 or UG5 RR or Old Yamaha FZ16 because they all the stocked DC. Do not use AS150 RR as lastest bikes comes with 3-phase alternator.
Ape RR is bit costly but is tried and tested RR thus recommended.

Thanks so much buddy!..would you know if anyone in Mumbai can get this done.

[Toshar Deven]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Thanks so much buddy!..would you know if anyone in Mumbai can get this done.

No. I don't know and chances are also low to find someone who can wind the stator for you.
Many electrical winding shops can easily wind ceiling fan/water pump, table fan motor because their stator/rotor are simple in construction, spins at low rpm and has negligible amount of heat and vibration. Whereas bike stator works in challenged condition and require best tight windings to work for lifetime. Thus, all mechanics/ SVC just replaces worn out stator with new one and doesn't bother to wind it.

Options you have -- Wind it yourself with skills. Or contact your known person (if you have) who lives in Banglore or Kolkata who can get the winding done from Ruby electrical or DVJ auto respectively. This will cost you more but will save hell lot of your time. This is not much complicated thing but requires interest and knowledge to overcome troubles.

[ntchrist]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Thanks Buddy, you have been quite helpful. I was able to figure out a place in Mumbai that has both the versions of Ape RR, will get it this coming week. They gave been supplying these parts for 8 years and asked me upfront if I needed for bike modification. The shop name is Janta Automobile behind Apsara Cinema in Grant Road if anyone wants a genuine piece of RR

[Maddy79]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

Thanks Buddy, you have been quite helpful. I was able to figure out a place in Mumbai that has both the versions of Ape RR, will get it this coming week. They gave been supplying these parts for 8 years and asked me upfront if I needed for bike modification. The shop name is Janta Automobile behind Apsara Cinema in Grant Road if anyone wants a genuine piece of RR

What were the pricing for both these Ape RR versions?
Kindly check if they are OEM before buying.

[M.R.B]

Re: Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

The contact# for Ruby Electricals: 9944138274
Contact person: Kennedy

They are marathahalli based i guess.

They have converted many bikes to DC setup and charge little less then 2k. You can contact them.

I got this from a post wrote in 2010 -- if you are coming from hosur road, from lal bagh main gate,go towards left and a sudden turn comes. there you can see the sign board of ruby electricals. you may not see the shop from the road. If any plan to rewind coil plate, they have their own work shop a bit far, walkable distance, to remove the coil plate. Just ask the guy at ruby electricals and they will show you the work shop. Ruby electrical guys will accept only coil plate and other stuffs. they dont have any mechanic there to remove and attach things. Hope this helps. Contact# 26578828.
For coil re winding and a custom made rectifier i paid 950 rs

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



The Ape RR have two versions AFAIK. One without the white connector with red wire, the part number of this one is ED22158 and the part name is REGULATOR, other one with the red wire and white connector is named VOLTAGE REGULATOR and part number is ED33204. The Ape RR Unit costs 1500 rupees the last time I checked, earlier it was around 1100 rupees. The red colored wire with white connector was earlier connected to ammeter to show the battery charge, now-a-days it is connected to a light which glows when the battery is not charging, you can safely ignore this wire or just buy the one without the red wire.

Both Ape RR are same in functioning its just that new RR is more robust and can provide current data to Amp meters installed in new APe auto rikshaw.
Nowdays all most all bikes comes with DC setup.You can use Pulsar UG4 or UG5 RR or Old Yamaha FZ16 because they all the stocked DC. Do not use AS150 RR as lastest bikes comes with 3-phase alternator.
Ape RR is bit costly but is tried and tested RR thus recommended.

Hey thanks for the details . I shall try them out. now I am able to recall, in 2002 I got my RX135's lighting coil re-winded to support 60/55W Bulb with customer RR unit from them only. But those days bike running headlight on DC was not very popular. Roads were ruled by RXs.